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Old 07-27-2016, 05:35 AM   #91
SprinterSnale
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

I was envisioning a 12volt load dump off my MPPT charger. I wonder is something only 65 watts, would heat a few gallons. The 110volt AC is a good idea, but could sock it to the batteries if using the inverter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-65-W...4AAOSwjVVVlZJa

Last edited by SprinterSnale; 07-27-2016 at 05:36 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 07-27-2016, 12:15 PM   #92
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Rough estimate, assuming not much heat loss from the tank, is that if a 625 watt heater takes 30 minutes to heat 6 gal of water then the 65 watt heater will take almost 300 minutes to heat 6 gal or roughly an hour for every gal of water.
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:21 PM   #93
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

The 120 volt 400 watt heating element I had in the Sprinter took about 45 minutes to get 5 gallons to 90 degrees. Never measured the beginning temperature but assume it was near 65 degrees. The 90 degree thermostat set point was determined by taking a container into our house shower to determine what temperature I used for a shower. All the water in the container is at the correct temperature so no hot/cold water mixing or plumbing is required.

The Transit will have a 625 watt heating element so I expect the time required will be about 30 minutes. Using a AC heating element lets me choose from 3 sources of power. Shore power, "shore power" from the vehicle 12 volt system powered second inverter while driving or from the house 1000 watt inverter powered by the house 12 volt battery. A 12 volt DC heating element could also be used.

Using the house 255 amp-hr battery would not be used if weather conditions do not permit. 625 watts x 1.15 (inverter loss) = 720 watts/12 volts = 60 amps for 1 /2 hour. Or 30 amp-hrs. That will use about 10% of the house battery capacity. On a sunny day I should easily get the house battery back to 100% SOC. Does require a battery monitor set to SOC so you can determine when you can or can not use the house battery. I do have the choice with the gas engine Transit to just idle the engine for 30 minutes using the vehicle powered inverter to heat the water. One of the reasons I did not want a diesel.
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Old 08-20-2016, 09:39 PM   #94
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Progress report:

1. Floor done.
2. Solar panel done.
3. Maxxair installed.
4. All 80/20 framework complete.
5. House electrical 90% done.
6. Sink cabinet 90% done.
7. Home made passenger seat swivel done. (That was painful)
8. Fold up table off sink done.
9. Refrigerator installed.
10. Microwave installed.
11. Temporary shower enclosure removable shelves done.
12. Insulation done except for over the cab headliner.
13. Upper basket cabinets completed.
14. Vehicle powered inverter installed but not wired.
15. Temporary plastic jar storage above the slider door done.
16. Water pump and piping installed.

Left to be done:

1. Ceiling panels.
2. Permanent bench seats plywood seats and seat backs.
3. Shower walls.
4. Water tanks.
5. Wood insert panels in 80/20 framework.
6. Complete the plug wiring.
7. Add two strings of LED lights under upper cabinets.
8. Add 3 LED lights in ceiling.
9. Make fold down table off sink cabinet.
10.Install the electrical control panel above the driver.
11. Build the fold down bed platforms.
12. Build the rear table.
13. Complete the sink drawers and door.

Lots still to do but at least it is now functional and can be used. Just spent a week in Monterey and all worked very well. Lots more storage than I had in the Sprinter and I really appreciate having over double the counter space. The shower enclosure removable shelves and towel rack is going to function well.

Back to work on it again. One thing I now know is the second conversion is just as hard to complete as the first. Thought it would go faster and easier. Wrong!
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Last edited by Graphite Dave; 08-20-2016 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 08-29-2016, 04:25 PM   #95
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Hi Dave, nice project work. Using the inverter under the hood to drive an A/C battery charger is a great idea. It certainly simplifies some aspects of power management.

It is too bad that the magnum charger / inverters are not setup to deal with LiFe batteries.

I wish we could find some lower labor content methods of dealing with floor and wall insulation and build up. Your results are very good, but I can just imagine the hours and details to make it all fit nicely together. I don't know if I have the patience.
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Old 08-29-2016, 05:26 PM   #96
Graphite Dave
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

The Samlex 1000 watt pure sine inverter is mounted inside near floor behind the driver seat.

The vehicle powered inverter makes heating shower water simple. Just a open to atmosphere tank with a cartridge heating element and a thermostat. With 625 watt heating element it takes about 30 minutes to heat the water to 90 degrees. No hot/cold water mixing or plumbing because all the water in the tank is at the correct temperature. A DC submersible pump is used to get the water out of tank to a garden hose and on/off garden nozzle.

With a 300 watt single solar panel and a 255 amp-hr 8D AGM battery I almost never need to charge from the vehicle powered inverter. It is there as a backup in case weather conditions require its use. In the last year of Sprinter ownership it was not used. I do not have a need for LiFe batteries. I almost never get below 90% SOC.

Yea, insulation is a time consuming task. Just finished it in Transit yesterday. In Sprinter I used small pieces of polyiso in the deep wall cavities. Took a lot of time. In Transit deep cavities I used two layers of 1" closed cell foam which has slightly lower R value but is much easier to install. Suspect it is also better for noise suppression. Since I have Tinnitus the noise suppression is not so important. Using polyiso in ceiling, floor and in the window indents is not difficult but definitely harder than using Thinsulate.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:16 PM   #97
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Picture of the rear upper cabinets attached.

80/20 framework without doors. Prefer the easy access to contents in the baskets when doors are not in the way. Openings are 10" x 21 1/2". LED strip lighting will be installed in bottom 80/20 slot actuated by the black switch in cabinet bottom. Reachable from aisle or from bed.

Still need to complete the cabinet end panels and cover the ceiling inside the cabinet with charcoal indoor/outdoor carpet. Cabinets weigh about 36 lbs. each.

Due to the higher roof of the Transit you can see a row of plastic containers above the slider door. Very handy storage. The ceiling is white 8mm Macrolux twin wall polycarbonate with a layer of 1/4" white Thinsulate on top of it to make it opaque. Could have gotten tricky and put LED lights above the ceiling to light up the ceiling but did not. The higher ceiling van is uglier outside but does make it possible to sit up in bed without hitting your head on the overhead cabinets. The polycarbonate ceiling is level with the outer edges sitting on top of the cabinet 80/20. A 2 1/4" spacer is required on van centerline to make ceiling level.

The Transit high roof rib behind the seats is lower than the rear ribs. Made it difficult to transition from the cab headliner up to the cargo ceiling. The high roof Sprinter had all the ribs the same height.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_1470.JPG (110.5 KB, 219 views)
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2015 gas Ecoboost Transit 148" WB high roof conversion

Web Site: http://ortontransit.info

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Old 10-16-2016, 06:10 PM   #98
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Couple more upper rear cabinet pictures attached.

Put a string of LED lights in bottom slot of the series 15 T-slot extrusion. Switch for on/off is located under the cabinet so it can be reached from bed or the aisle. A 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flatbar will slide in the end of the extrusion. The adhesive backed LED's are stuck to the flatbar.

The copper tube with crutch ends is for a curtain that can be located in 3 different locations.

Ceiling is 8mm Macrolux twin wall polycarbonate. It is level with few bolts. Edges of ceiling just sit on top of the cabinet 80/20. Can be removed for access.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_1481.JPG (98.8 KB, 296 views)
File Type: jpg 100_1482.JPG (99.9 KB, 276 views)
File Type: jpg 100_1483.JPG (78.9 KB, 266 views)
File Type: jpg 100_1484.JPG (88.1 KB, 263 views)
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Sold 2008 diesel NCV3 144" WB high roof DIY conversion
2015 gas Ecoboost Transit 148" WB high roof conversion

Web Site: http://ortontransit.info

U-Tube Video: https://youtu.be/h5L6TZdy_y0

Last edited by Graphite Dave; 10-16-2016 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 10-26-2016, 08:35 PM   #99
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the fantastic write-up, and the accompanying website.

I have a question: What's your floor-to-ceiling height now that you have all your insulation installed? I'm 6'3" and the high-roof Transit is much more appealing than a high-roof Sprinter for that reason (and a number of others).

Regards,
Toby.
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Old 10-26-2016, 09:29 PM   #100
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Quote:
Originally Posted by tpd View Post
Hi Dave,

Thanks for the fantastic write-up, and the accompanying website.

I have a question: What's your floor-to-ceiling height now that you have all your insulation installed? I'm 6'3" and the high-roof Transit is much more appealing than a high-roof Sprinter for that reason (and a number of others).

Regards,
Toby.
6'-4" between top of floor and bottom of ceiling. My floor is 2 1/8" thick above the top of the metal corrugations. The bottom of ceiling to bottom of roof rib is about 2". So top of corrugated floor to bottom of roof rib is about 6' 8 1/8"
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