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Old 01-16-2019, 11:47 PM   #61
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

bubbles moving in the line mean you have an air leak somewhere upstream of the pump.
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:51 PM   #62
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

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Originally Posted by Midwestdrifter View Post
bubbles moving in the line mean you have an air leak somewhere upstream of the pump.
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:23 PM   #63
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

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Originally Posted by Midwestdrifter View Post
bubbles moving in the line mean you have an air leak somewhere upstream of the pump.
While I agree, I have gone through the fuel run, from the point it leaves the quickconnect, to the pump, and resealed all of the connections and tightened the hose clamps so that they are tight, but not enough to cut the material. All seems to spec, yet still bubbles. I might give it a couple days of running and recheck to see if it was just residual air in the line that was just working its way out.

Regardless, the heater worked for multiple hours the other night, with the duct and seat on. So far so good!

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Old 01-17-2019, 08:57 PM   #64
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

Some of those bubbles may be coming from air pockets in the tee fittings etc. Some just form - as the Letonkinoisvarnish guys have described - probably from some type of cavitation that doesn't immediately collapse. I know on my test rig I have never permanently and completely eliminated all outlet side bubbles even though I see no bubbles going into the pump inlet.

Here is another thing to consider - if there were a significant air leak prior to the pump, the head in the stand pipe pulls a bit of a vacuum and you would think that you would lose standpipe and pump prime over time. And maybe some people do????????

Last edited by rollerbearing; 01-17-2019 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:46 PM   #65
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

Your quick disconnect - factory Dorman could be leaking, scratch on the sealing surface, damaged o-ring, debris? Some of Dorman’s o-rings are available so this could be a common problem. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-01.../dp/B000CIV4OQ
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Old 01-18-2019, 10:03 PM   #66
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

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Your quick disconnect - factory Dorman could be leaking, scratch on the sealing surface, damaged o-ring, debris? Some of Dormanís o-rings are available so this could be a common problem. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-01.../dp/B000CIV4OQ
I considered this as well, and you may be right. For now, until the weather warms a bit, I am going to leave it all alone. Of course that is assuming the heater keeps working, which as of last night it still was.

I certainly learned a lot of extra information about the Espar from having to figure this all out, so in that way I guess I can be thankful.
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Old 02-05-2019, 08:24 AM   #67
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

I’m facing what sounds like a similar if not the same issue. I have a D2 installed under the passenger seat, standard fuel, exhaust and combustion line routing. I kept getting either a 13 or a 14 error back to back to back, especially on very cold nights. My longest heater runs were eight after parking with a warm cabin from driving. In a moment of inspiration after reading the forum I realized I could delete error codes. So I cleared them all and viola! The heater ran great (external temp 25f set to 65f inside) the van came to temp and the heater cycled down to a lower power and coasted with minimal heat. I figure problem solved, the can temp dropped as expected to about 62f so I increased the cabin temp to 68f the heater went into boost mode and I got an error 14 within 5 minutes... (I did discover that you can stop a shutdown by deleting the code quickly) I shut it down properly and Cycled it again hoping that starting with a higher setting from the start will avoid the overheat. No such luck 10 minutes and another error 14. Any assistance is appreciated.
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Old 02-05-2019, 04:50 PM   #68
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

While I never figured out a specific cause for mine, rerouting the fuel line to come in from above the pump made the difference. Not sure if it was a pressure head issue or what, but it fixed it.

That being said, going through the service manual steps, one by one, will probably address what is going on for you.

The codes are caused by too much heat at the heat exchange, thus either it's burning too hot (low fuel/air ratio), or it can't offload the heat fast enough (dirty, not enough air flow, flow restriction), or a faulty sensor.

Good luck, I know it's stressful, not having a diagnosis yet.
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Old 02-05-2019, 04:55 PM   #69
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

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It starts no problem and then runs for a bit before it throws the code. When I get home later, I'll upload photos of the install to see if anyone can catch something I'm missing.
This is exactly what mine was doing - I also had the HAK installed, but not correctly. You need to bypass one of the wires on the HAK.

My heater was installed by Van Life Customs here in Denver - and they got that tip from Espar directly. Mine has been running like a champ after that fix.

Sorry I don't know exactly what wire - but call Espar.
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Old 02-11-2019, 08:50 AM   #70
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

Here are some photos of my heater install, still throwing codes 13 and sometimes 14. It has the HAK kit wired in as well as an external temp sensor.

I'm in Alaska and our temps are currently in the 20's. The heater seems to run fine when asked to only maintain a 62-65F temp. If I crank it up to 70F it will give me an error on the next heating cycle.
  • I've re-routed the exhaust to be shorter.
  • I took the 90 degree end cap off of the heater unit and now use the direct end cap with the large curving hose shown. It seems to have fewer restrictions to the airflow but the heater unit still gets very warm - too warm to hold on to.
  • I looked and there are no appreciable bubbles in the fuel line.
  • Heatso suggested "When starting the heater initially, you need to insert 20AMP fuse for heater and only then after few moments to insert 5 AMP fuse. 5AMP fuse is for the controller , inserting it before or together with the heater, controller might not detect what heater it is"
  • I've checked the overheating sensor for "fuzz" as recommended by heatso and it was clean (it's brand new). I did put a voltmeter on the heat sensor to check resistance and managed to get NO readings. I was checking right at the sensor where the leads are soldered on.


One more maybe relevant part. The heater, when it does run continuously, tends to cycle between what seems like LOW and MED LOW. My understanding is that with the external temp sensor the heater should run on HIGH, get to temp, and then shut off until the temp drops again. Nevertheless here's what it does now - On LOW I can hear the pulsing of the fuel as it hits the combustion screen and burns at the same pace as the fuel pump. It's not operating as if the combustion is "catching". I have other heaters I use to heat my workspace, a chinese knockoff and a Planar. Both of those heaters in low mode still have the sound of continuous combustion, just at a lower volume. So maybe I'm carbed up and need to do a teardown and cleaning on a heater unit with less than 3 weeks of run time.... yahoo
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