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Old 10-30-2013, 11:33 PM   #131
hein
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

hole and plate:



Should be good to 200 mph. I put shrink tube over the strain relief
and sealed it all up with some urethane sealant. Need to find a panel...

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2010 MB 3500 RV conversion.

Last edited by hein; 10-31-2013 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:23 PM   #132
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Floor heat film from Home Depot showed up and I think this stuff is going to be the cat's meow. Maybe now I can put the floor down for the last time.



160 watt piece taped down with Gorilla tape and wires double covered with electrical tape. 36" wide fits just between the OEM track bolt locations I am using to hold down the floor. (three of the bolts are shown) The element is 5 ft long.


6 mil vapor barrier for added protection. (Per the instructions)


18" x 5ft rear element in process. 80 watts


wires exiting the floor. wrapped, shrink tube, wrapped, shrink tubed again. Bottom edge of floor rounded off.


For power, perhaps some switched cord ends and then plug them into something like this. There is a 15A GFI outlet right above the exit point. Lucked out on that since the floor heat was not something I had really planned for. The outlet was there for a electric space heater.
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:08 PM   #133
hein
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Cool wet weather has arrived.


Time to finish insulating the lower walls. Thinsulate (background), EZcool (center), & Reflectix (right)


Insulating the hard to reach cavity at the top of the lower wall.


Inserting a roll of EZcool into the cavity. Reflectix would be hard to install this way since it is not a as pliable.


It's in and partially unrolled


Unrolled and in place. It goes up the outside wall, over the top and down the inside wall to form an upside down U section.


Another shot. This area will be filled with Thinsulate. read on...


More EZcool installed against the outer wall. I made vertical slits in some pieces to fit them over the bulkheads between the inner and outer sheet metal. Or I cut strips to fit between them and then joined them top & bottom with foil tape. It's taped down the sides and along the top (to the U shaped pieces) to form a continuous installation. The EZcool is not in direct contact with the van outer skin and it doesn't go all the way down (-1/2") to leave the drain channels unblocked. (All the notorious NCV3 water ingress points have been sealed but just in case one weeps a little.)



Inserting a rolled up piece of Thinsulate into the cavity with the EZcool.


Using a string to pull another rolled up piece through;


works great! Once in, the Thinsulate roll is unfurled to fill the space.


Thinsulate in place. The stuff is beautiful. This shot really shows the cross sectional structure.


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Old 11-04-2013, 05:52 AM   #134
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Realized I needed to run some wires for the Espar D2 before finishing the insulation. I made a plate out of 1/8 thick ABS and mounted the Espar Digimax control and the A/C thermostat to it. I extended the Digimax wires so the plug wouldn't be hidden in the wall and connected the A/C thermostat to the wires already routed.

(below) Thermostat mounting plate installed. It's VHB taped to the Reflectix. I'll cut a window in the upholstered wall panel and run some screws in from the front to secure it.


Back of the mounting plate. Both thermostats = total of 13 wires, iirc


Back to insulating. Thinsulate glued (3M 90 spray) to the previously installed layer of EZ-cool. With Digimax harness hanging out. Working with Thinsulate is safe and easy. No smell, no loose fibers in the air or on the floor. And it cuts easily with household scissors.


All finished with a layer of Reflectix. The layers are: out side sheet metal / EZ-cool / Thinsulate / Reflectix.


Just three more areas to go and the main insulation will be finished. Still need to do the sliding door and rear doors but those can wait.
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2010 MB 3500 RV conversion.

Last edited by hein; 11-07-2013 at 03:14 AM.
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Old 11-04-2013, 03:37 PM   #135
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Our order for 4 master rolls (180 ft ea) of 3M Thinsulate SM600L has been accepted. Expecting to see them early December. Please PM me if you are interested in using Thinsulate for your van build.

Thank you,
Hein
Impact, Inc.
Hood River, OR
5four1 49O 5O9eight
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Old 11-05-2013, 01:40 AM   #136
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Package from Clips & Fasteners came today so I was able to re-installed one of the lower panels with push pins instead of sheetmetal screws. Not that I really hate sheet metal screws but if there are factory holes that can be used; why not use them. I am verifying my lower panel CAD files during this step so I can CNC some new lower panels. The current panels came with the van and are fine but I want to design some slightly different ones and offer them as a DIY kit in a variety of materials; push pins included. I am obviously investing some time and money into this build. Part of the project is to develop and offer some products to make the process easier for others and at the same time help pay some bills.

The push pins. It's going to take a bunch but the 18 for this panel were installed in 5 minutes. No guessing where to drill and no sharp screws to penetrate a wire.


Panel installed with the pins. Easy to install, easy to remove and re-install. I like that. That sub thumps, BTW.


Close up of push pins. These will be recessed (countersunk) when I machine new panels. Still looks pretty clean, vehicle-like.
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:11 AM   #137
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Mounting the thermostats to a plate behind the wall panel worked out nicely. I was able to wire them in advance and they don't stick out from the wall nearly as much. I did so-so on reworking the upholstery but still happy with the result. I'll use the same arrangement on the opposite wall to mount the SeeLevel tank sensor panel and an additional switch or two.

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Old 11-07-2013, 11:31 PM   #138
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Quote:
Originally Posted by hein View Post
Package from Clips & Fasteners came today so I was able to re-installed one of the lower panels with push pins instead of sheetmetal screws. Not that I really hate sheet metal screws but if there are factory holes that can be used; why not use them. I am verifying my lower panel CAD files during this step so I can CNC some new lower panels. The current panels came with the van and are fine but I want to design some slightly different ones and offer them as a DIY kit in a variety of materials; push pins included. I am obviously investing some time and money into this build. Part of the project is to develop and offer some products to make the process easier for others and at the same time help pay some bills.

The push pins. It's going to take a bunch but the 18 for this panel were installed in 5 minutes. No guessing where to drill and no sharp screws to penetrate a wire.


Panel installed with the pins. Easy to install, easy to remove and re-install. I like that. That sub thumps, BTW.


Close up of push pins. These will be recessed (countersunk) when I machine new panels. Still looks pretty clean, vehicle-like.
Did you install the pins in the old self tapper holes? Did you have to enlarge the holes?
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:43 AM   #139
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Below is a picture with some of the holes circled. I'm not sure if they are used with the factory panels. I did not modify them to work with the push pins. I'll need 86 of the pins for my van.



The lower panels in my van were formerly installed with sheet metal screws. I treated all those screw holes with a rust preventative. Some I sealed with 3M fast set urethane since they were right at the top of the drain channel along the bottom. They would let water in to the floor area before I sealed around the trim rivets. See post #50
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:06 PM   #140
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Push pins look like nice alternative to sheet metal screws. I just wonder how to locate holes in panel when you don't already have a factory panel with holes drilled?
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