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Old 10-25-2013, 12:23 AM   #121
Graphite Dave
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

One way that worked very well.http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...53&postcount=2
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:18 AM   #122
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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Originally Posted by Oldfartt View Post
First, I must compliment you on your clever workmanship and design techniques. (I wish I had a CNC Router when I was building mine).

A little tip... The fresh water tank appears to be made of white Polypropylene. However the action of daylight can cause an algal growth within the tank. Even when mounted under the van. Here in NZ it is a requirement to comply for Certified Containment Certificate to ensure that all fresh water pipes and fixed tanks are opaque to light.
Sooo... We either make the tank out of black polypropylene or paint the tank and any clear plastic hoses under the van with black paint. Problem solved!

Cheers

Ross
Ross,
Thank you for the compliment and doubly for the tip regarding the algae growth. I'll have to check around to see which paints adhere well to polyethylene. I have some thin black ABS which I could put under the tank for added protection. Maybe some undercoat spray will do on the sides and top.

George,
Good idea to reinforce the cross members. I knew that I had seen done that somewhere. Thanks for the reminder.

Dave,
Awesome link/install. I'm still trying to figure out what I'm looking at but will in due time. Amazing documentation as well. I've perused many of your drawings. It's people like you who make working on Sprinters so much fun!


I fiddled around with the tank today and ended up making the outer frame for the tray. I need to add a few cross pieces to tie the long sides together where the hangers will be. Then make 5 more hangers and drill some holes. I'm still trying to grasp the fill. I'll have enough clearance above the tank for an elbow. I could go straight out the side of the van right there. But if I can snake a hose down and fill from underneath that would be cool. If my vent is big enough I should not pressurize the tank. Right?

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Old 10-25-2013, 04:42 AM   #123
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Hein,

If you put a piece of plywood under the tray this would stop most rocks and stuff from smashing a hole in the tank.

Black tank is for grey water, White frame is for 200AHr battery.

Cheers

Ross
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:22 AM   #124
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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.................But if I can snake a hose down and fill from underneath that would be cool. If my vent is big enough I should not pressurize the tank. Right?

I would caution about a pressure fill unless you dramatically restrict the inflow by 1 or 2 sizes down from the vent size, meaning long time to fill. So for 3/8" size unrestricted vent outlet I would use at most 1/4" inlet. Even 5 PSI inside the tank pressure build-up by water pressure surge could burst the tank or mount.

I filled polyethylene tank in my Bigfoot Camper by sticking the filler hose (http://www.rvpartsmarket.com/Camco-E...03_p_2125.html) in the inlet and the damage inside the Camper was extensive even thou water was pouring out from the vent line and the filler hose. Tank did not explode but buckled enough to dislocate inside table and cabinets.

That is why I am using the large diameter 1/2 PSI relief valve and the pressure regulator.

George.
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:04 PM   #125
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Simple solution: http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...54&postcount=4
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Old 10-27-2013, 03:27 AM   #126
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Finished welding, grinding, sanding and painting the fresh water tank tray. I need to put fittings on the tank and cut some foam blocks to hold the top of the tank against the van cross members. An ABS enclosure for at least the pump and perhaps the whole tank is on the to-do list. I did order a Kat's heating pad to put on the bottom of the tank near the outlet even though I don't plan to use this tank & water system in freezing conditions. (I'll carry a smaller drinking water container inside the van for that.)

Top of the tank showing L shaped hangers (6 total) that will go inside the van cross members.


Bottom of tank towards the rear showing the pump and support. Pump will get an enclosure. The feet on this pump appear to work best with it mounted horizontally. Still need some nuts on the pump bolts. To the right, the hangers wrap under the frame so the bolts don't carry the shear load. The frame is doubled up at the hangers.



Edit: I'm looking for a 3 tank level monitor with a pump switch and possibly a tank heat switch.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:52 PM   #127
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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Originally Posted by hein View Post
.........I did order a Kat's heating pad to put on the bottom of the tank near the outlet even though I don't plan to use this tank & water system in freezing conditions. (I'll carry a smaller drinking water container inside the van for that.)

Edit: I'm looking for a 3 tank level monitor with a pump switch and possibly a tank heat switch.
The silicon heating pads could damage tank's polyethylene. I believe Kat's or Wolverine heaters pads should be attached directly to metal to conduct heat away otherwise they could runaway toward burnout. If you got the 1" wide 25W Katís pad you could attach it to the metal frame to better distribute heat.

I decided to use Wema gauges, high quality and reasonably priced. Inside tanks sensors are not prone to external damage but black tank could cause problems. Wema has a shield on the waste tanks sensors to allow the uninterrupted floater motion. http://www.wemausa.com/index.shtml

My experience with RV style external capacitive sensors was not good in reliability and quality, but this is just my experience. I donít have personal experience with this company http://www.rvgauge.com/rv.htm but was told that their product is OK.

George.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:23 PM   #128
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Seelevel gauges are what I have fitted to my RV. They work extremely well and do not suffer from the contamination problems that probe type units have, as they are attached to the outside of non metal tanks.


Cheers

Ross
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:32 AM   #129
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Ordered the SeeLevel 709-P3 From RVupgradeStore.com

Located the Espar D2 in my CAD layout. It's in the bottom of the cabinet next to the fridge. The combustion in and out (with muffler) will be ahead of the rear fender well. The air in and out are shown with blue and red hoses.



I exported a SketchUp model of the Espar Airtronic D2. It should be pretty accurate.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:17 PM   #130
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

I am getting ready to penetrate the roof for an 8 gauge wire pair going to a solar panel (TBD). Ordered this fitting from MMC. There is an O-ring that compresses against the van roof which I thought might squish out. So I made a little ABS plate with a chamferred hole to capture the o-ring. The plate is backed with VHB tape.

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