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Old 05-03-2009, 03:47 PM   #1
Aqua Puttana
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Default T1N OM647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

2004 2.7L Water Pump Replacement

5 cylinder water pump leak leaking remove replace change install


Cost

Approx. $200.00 w/ a metric Allen set.

Parts

Water pump w/ gasket. The OEM pump MB 6472000101 has a metal gasket. Other pumps have a composite gasket. Metal gasket = easier cleaning. Added: The metal gasket also provides a set spacing. I prefer the metal type.


Caution: There has been a warning about replacement water pumps having an oversized bore for the idler pulley self threading fastener. Double check that the bore is correct. Some info is here. Thanks goes to Lightguy.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25041

GO5 Type Coolant. About 2 full mixed gallons without a complete system drain/flush. I used Zerex GO5 Formula Phosphate Free from NAPA. Advanced Auto didn't carry any GO5 product. They were insistent to use one size fits all. I don't recommend that.

Smaller size outlet gasket or RTV sealant if you re-use the existing metal gasket. This gasket is between the lower pump outlet port and a small outlet manifold. No new small gasket came with my OEM pump. No stock at the dealer when I called on a Saturday. I re-used the old metal gasket with RTV.
Gasket 647 201 00 80
Interchanges 221 33024 001, 22133024001, 647 201 00 80, 6472010080

Tools Necessary

Typical hand tools most anyone has plus:

10mm socket or wrench (turbo heat shield)
CR-VT-20 Torx
CR-VT-25 Torx
CR-VT-30 Torx
CR-VT-45 Torx (for outlet manifold bracket)
8mm Allen (for fan bolt)
CR-VE-10 Socket
CR-VE-12 Socket
CR-VE-14 Socket
Torque wrench
Hose removal tool
17mm 12 pt. (offset box wrench for belt tensioner)
1/4" 12 pt. box wrench (for outlet manifold pump bolts)
T20 Torx screwdriver (for lower grill screws)
Ultra Blue RTV Gasket Sealant (if re-using outlet manifold gasket because none was included)
Wooden block 6 3/4"L (for propping radiator forward)

PumpToolsSm.jpg

Remove frame bar to tilt radiator forward


Disconnect the battery negative.
Remove the fasteners holding grill. Loosen the two lower screws with a T20 Torx screwdriver first. The plastic frame holes are slotted.
Remove the heat shield above the turbo.
Remove trim panels below the headlights.
Remove 4 ea. fasteners, remove the headlight pods. Disconnecting the wiring is not necessary. Swing out of the way.
Remove 4 ea. fasteners on frame. Pop 2 ea. clips. Remove the top frame and stand it on end.

BraceOnEndSm.jpg

The manual I have said to remove a hose to tilt the radiator and remove the fan and shroud together. I found no need to remove any hose or the fan shroud ever. I did pop the 4 shroud clips. One on the right rattled down to where I never did find it. MB over-engineered that anyway so I only need 3 clips. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Drain the coolant

With the headlight pod removed you can more easily access the tank drain. It is hidden pretty well in the lower support structure. I made a hose unit per HKPierce. It helped, but I think anytime I drain the coolant in the future I will remove the grill and headlight pod for access. Turn the valve open to drain. Find it by feel. Added: Don't bother. The drain drains so slowly it isn't worth the effort. Catch the coolant when the pump hose is removed. A bit messy, but less aggravating.

RadiatorDrainSm.jpg

Remove the fan

Pull the radiator out forward for access to the fan and pump. I wedged a 6 3/4" wood block to hold the radiator out and keep access. It worked very well, but it did slightly bend the aluminum top frame lip. I do mean slightly.

RadiatorBlockedSm.jpg

Remove the 8mm Allen bolt to remove the fan and viscous clutch. Righty tighty, lefty loosey works on this one. I was able to wedge a 3/16" x 10" square shaft screwdriver into the bolt heads for the pulley to hold the shaft. The real tool designed for that would be nice. I was able to carefully extract the fan assembly with the shroud in place.

Caution: Keep the fan/viscous clutch upright when you store it. Do not lay it flat.

Use a really small screwdriver to pop the plastic cover off the idler pulley that is on the turbo side. Remove the idler bolt using the CR-VT-45 torx. The same size as the frame screws.

Remove the bolts from the water pump


I made a cardboard bolt holder as a guide. It helps keep the bolts organized and makes it easier when re-installing. I used a CR-VE-12 socket to remove all of the bolts, but there are actually 2 different head sizes. By carefully using the incorrect CR-VE-12 socket on the far right 6mm bolt I avoided needing to remove that idler pulley. Be very careful when removing the top bolts hidden from view. It is very easy (at least it was for me) to remove a wrong bolt that is not for the pump.
BoltTemplateSm.jpg

Disconnect the hose and manifold


I tried to loosen the top short hose from the pump without success. The small end to the pipe removed easily. Then came the two manifold bolts. I removed the front, easy one first which was a mistake because then the loosened manifold bound against the back bolt. The rear bolt is very difficult to remove. I only had a deep CR-V-E10 socket that wouldn't go in. I'm not certain a shallow socket would have helped. The turbo is in the way big time. I used a 1/4" 12 point box end wrench to painstakingly turn the bolt out 1/8 of a turn at a time. The whores and bastards came by to help out. Why MB didn't rotate the bolt pattern for access is beyond me. It is only 2 bolts. You'd think the position could have been better selected. (Sorry. Whining over.)

I didn't do it this way, but this is what I'd try:
Remove the pump with the small hose 2 bolt manifold connected

Leave at least two bolts holding the water pump in place.
Remove the small hose from the pump outlet manifold.
Underneath, remove the large hose from the manifold. Be ready to catch coolant.
Disconnect the pump manifold support bracket.
Remove and support the water pump to get access to the manifold bolts.
Remove both manifold bolts.
Remove the water pump.
Clean gasket surfaces.

Once the pump was out I used the 3/16" square shank screwdriver to wedge the pulley bolts and remove the 4 ea. CR-VT-30 screws. With screws out I held the old pump shaft down at about 6" height and dropped it on the cement to remove the pulley. Two drops and the pulley popped right off. Not elegant, but effective.

Installing the new pump

Install the pulley on the new pump. I installed the pump with the manifold hoses still connected. This created some real problems for me so I don't recommend that method. The manifold pushed against the pump and moved it over. That made it difficult to start the first bolts. Once the pump was in place I struggled to get the back manifold bolt in. When the whores and bastards again stopped by (this time with the mother#%$@^!'s for extra support), I stepped back for a bit. I finally ended up disconnecting the manifold hoses and bracket to get the rear bolt started. It was still difficult to start that rear bolt with the pump bolted in place.

I didn't do it this way, but this is what I'd try (it may take two people):
Install the pump with manifold connected


With the manifold disconnected from hoses and bracket:
Position the pump down between the radiator and engine.
Install the manifold gasket and manifold bolts while the pump is held away from the turbo.
Leave the manifold bolts out a bit to allow room for the manifold bracket to find it's way below.
Position the pump gasket on the pump using the top left and lower right long 8mm bolts to hold it basically in place. It may help to have someone below to guide the manifold and the bracket.
Tilt the lower end of the pump in first and position the pump to start the bolts.
Install all the bolts from the cardboard template.

I am now back to what I know works:

Tighten the two manifold bolts.
Install the manifold bracket bolt.
Install the large manifold hose.
Install the small manifold hose.
Install the right angle jump hose to the pipe.
Rotate the turbo air intake sensor back to original position if you moved it. (I did.)
Torque the pump bolts. Being careful again to get the correct bolts on the top. 6mm = 10 ft/lb. 8mm=15 ft/lb. By carefully using the incorrect CR-VE-12 socket on the far right 6mm bolt I avoided needing to remove that idler pulley when torquing.
Install the idler pulley with the slightly triangular thread forming bolt. Torque to 26 ft/lb.
2011/07/03 edit: Do not tap the hole for the triangular bolt. The self thread design is for better holding. ("The term for the 'thread forming' feature is trilobular." Roger - Sailquik post #26)
Snap cover back on.
Install the serpentine belt before the fan is in the way.
Install the fan/viscous drive. I didn't like the way the 3/16" screwdriver wedged against the viscous drive for tightening, it seemed fine for loosening. I used a large rat tail file tang to wedge the pulley bolts. Wear gloves to hold the file because they are brittle. The tang bent a bit, but it worked fine. As I didn't have the torque spec I made the bolt reasonably very tight. The proper holding tool would be nice to have.
Close the radiator drain if not done yet.
Replace the top frame member. I always grease bolts for reassembly. I also greased the bearing areas as my 2004 had rust bubbles there. A more meticulous person may want to grind, prime and paint. (The grease completely halted the rust.)
Install the 2 ea. radiator support clips.
Install turbo heat shield.
Install headlight pods.
Install lower trim panels.
Install the grill last. My one lower grill plastic was broken previously. I used a black cable tie on that side to hold things together. Doesn't show at all and works great.
Refill coolant per manual. I needed 2 gallons 50% mix. They say it takes about 3 heat/cool cycles for the level to stabilize.
Reconnect battery negative if removed.

Except for the back manifold bolt, the pump change is not bad. I think the job could be done in 4 - 5 hours. It took me two days, but I stopped to call the dealer net day for the small manifold gasket. The back bolt on the manifold also gave me fits coming out and going in. That added more time than I care to think about. My modified installation by disconnecting the manifold completely will help make that less of an issue. AP/vic

Quote:
Originally Posted by abittenbinder View Post
You were wise to PM me with this question and location or I would have missed it.

There are 3 different fastener torque specs to use on the water pump. The 6mm pump housing hardware is torqued to 10 ft lbs. The 8mm pump housing hardware is 15 ft lbs. And the special 10.9 graded, thread forming bolt [TRILOBULAR™ ?] for the idler pulley mounting is 26 ft. lbs. Doktor A

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 12-06-2018 at 09:00 PM.
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:23 PM   #2
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

More misc. info because I ran out of picture space and characters in the How to post.

20170823 info from Doktor A.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abittenbinder View Post
Forget Dodge. Thanks to Fiat, they have lost control of Sprinter parts warehousing and pricing.

MBenz dealer list is $190. [MB 6472000101]

Doktor A
I use a 17mm x 18mm 12 point offset box wrench to keep the tensioner pulled back. I think it needs to be an offset wrench, but a regular wrench may work too. I found that a plastic bungee cord hook anchored to the hood hinge makes a good dead end. The rope could be tied directly to the hinge instead. I then route a soft rope down the fender and over to the wrench. It keeps the tensioner pulley out of the way to make routing the belt easier.

PlasticWrenchHook.jpg

17mmWrenchTied.jpg

WrenchTiedBack.jpg

I used some hose over the bolt ends to help my fat fingers put the bolts into the holes. I thought the hose would help with the back outlet manifold bolt, but that was wishful thinking.

BoltHoseHelper.jpg

I returned the first OEM pump that I received because the machined faces were rough. My parts guy ordered two pumps in. When he opened the first replacement it also had some rough spots. He opened the 2nd replacement which was similar and let me choose the pump I wanted. All three pumps had some rough spots on the faces. Maybe I'm just too picky, but the faces on the leaking pump I removed were nice flat and shiny. Here's a picture of the new pump faces.

PumpFaces1.jpg

While the fan was out of the way I inspected my harmonic balancer. After 190,000 miles it looks good by visual inspection. I guess the problem with a single inspection is that it can crack anytime after. At least I think it's OK now......knock/touch wood.

I guess that's all I have for now. AP/vic

Added:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
For future reference, I believe that once the 4 clips are removed on the fan shroud it can be lifted up and clear.

I didn't do that with my coolant pump change. An independent shop owner searched out my Write-up before beginning a Sprinter water pump change. He said the fan shroud was frustrating him so he pulled it up and out. The fan blade assembly must have been removed already.

vic
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
Yes, with fan blade off the shroud can lift out, it takes some wiggling and fussing with but it does come out.
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:47 PM   #3
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Great write up Vic - thanks !
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Old 05-03-2009, 08:45 PM   #4
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Superb. Stuff like this goes a long way towards damping my fear owning an orphan. Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2009, 04:28 AM   #5
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Thanks Vic for the write-up.

Was the water pump hard to remove and was a screwdriver used to remove it? Was there any residual coolant left or did the drain from the radiator remove everything?
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:11 AM   #6
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

I really appreciate your rightup Vic. Welldone. I may have to do the same on my sprinter as there is a slow coolant leak in the sprinter and was expecting to have to remove the radiator to do the job. Your rightup shows that this is not necessary.
A little tip on the belt tensioner. There is a 4mm hole in the base flange of the belt tensioner. It is easier to see with a mirror. By inserting a 4mm steel rod (4" nail) the tensioner can be held back after rotating the tensioner with the 17mm socket wrench. Hope this helps.

Cheers Ross

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Old 05-04-2009, 11:57 AM   #7
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

sikwan,
My OEM pump (2004 year Model 647 2.7L replacement Part #A 647 200 01 01) with the metal gasket just came right off once the bolts were all out. Because I removed a wrong bolt and one pump bolt was still there, at first I thought it was going to fight me. I think the metal gasket is the reason it was so easy to remove.

The drain from the radiator removed virtually all the coolant from the pump cavities. Because I read this somewhere (?) I initially opened the drain with the radiator pressure cap still in place. When the flow slowed I then removed the cap and the flow increased as would be expected. Whether that made a difference, I don't know. There was quite a bit of coolant to catch that came out when I removed the large hose on the pump outlet manifold and that was after the pump had been removed.

About 8 qts drained out so I presume there was still more left in the engine because the info I have says 10.5 quart capacity. My old radiator fluid looked very clean and clear. Any passages I uncovered looked very clean so I didn't worry about draining completely. Hope this does some good. AP
Quote:
Originally Posted by sikwan View Post
Thanks Vic for the write-up.

Was the water pump hard to remove and was a screwdriver used to remove it? Was there any residual coolant left or did the drain from the radiator remove everything?
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 05-05-2009 at 01:28 AM. Reason: add pump part number
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:03 PM   #8
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Oldfartt,
I know about that little hole and pin trick (1/8" drill shank fits per Doktor A.). Maybe my affinity for using soft ropes and tying things up is left over from my dating days....nights. Thanks, AP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldfartt View Post
I really appreciate your rightup Vic. Welldone. I may have to do the same on my sprinter as there is a slow coolant leak in the sprinter and was expecting to have to remove the radiator to do the job. Your rightup shows that this is not necessary.
A little tip on the belt tensioner. There is a 4mm hole in the base flange of the belt tensioner. It is easier to see with a mirror. By inserting a 4mm steel rod (4" nail) the tensioner can be held back after rotating the tensioner with the 17mm socket wrench. Hope this helps.

Cheers Ross
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >330,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >183,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 05-04-2009, 01:31 PM   #9
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

Nice writeup, my experience was very similar to yours, even down to using a piece of 2x4 to pry the radiator away from the engine.
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Old 05-04-2009, 03:58 PM   #10
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Default Re: T1N 647 Engine Water Pump Replacement

great post and pics vic, very detailed thanks
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