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Sprinter RV's & Conversions Talk Common features found in Sprinter RV's and Conversions.


 
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:59 AM   #21
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

I am using the 1250 (for B2B only, I have separate controller for solar due to my panel voltage being too high). I am using the ignition start and manual override, both features work fine to turn the charging on. Turning off is the hassle, when I want to prevent B2B charging and use Solar only. This is 95% of my use. In order to get what I needed, I took the 1250 apart, pulled out the on/off toggle switch, and relocated it to my center console, where it belongs. The on/off switch comes by default in a ridiculous location which is inaccessible without removing two screws and sticking fingers near live wires. Probably so they can sell more of their "remote control" kits someday. The kits are not available yet.

Other than that, I'm happy, it sends 50+ amps into my house bank and it's easy to set up/customize.
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:12 AM   #22
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

Quote:
Originally Posted by brownvan View Post
Just following up on this post to see if any owners of the Kisae DMT1230 are using the Ignition-Start/Manual-Override/Voltage-Sense-Override feature?
I have a DMT1250 in our van (OM651 I4) and I hooked up the ignition sense wire to the D+ terminal today after a few weeks without it. Based on what I have read here about the "smart alternator" that is present on the I4 it seemed that the ignition sense wire is a good idea to keep the DMT charging at all times while the engine is on.
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Old 05-18-2018, 04:56 PM   #23
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

I haven't done the switch input to the Ignition-Start/Manual-Override/Voltage-Sense-Override input yet. From what I can tell all the feature does is lower the voltage thresholds for enabling charging. Best I can tell, the charger works fine without it although I haven't continuously monitored the charger status on long drives to see if it is always charging. Do the diesel motors have a smart alternator that fluctuates the voltage output based on the starter battery?

Quote:
Originally Posted by markxengineering View Post
I am using the 1250 (for B2B only, I have separate controller for solar due to my panel voltage being too high). I am using the ignition start and manual override, both features work fine to turn the charging on. Turning off is the hassle, when I want to prevent B2B charging and use Solar only. This is 95% of my use. In order to get what I needed, I took the 1250 apart, pulled out the on/off toggle switch, and relocated it to my center console, where it belongs. The on/off switch comes by default in a ridiculous location which is inaccessible without removing two screws and sticking fingers near live wires. Probably so they can sell more of their "remote control" kits someday. The kits are not available yet.

Other than that, I'm happy, it sends 50+ amps into my house bank and it's easy to set up/customize.
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Old 05-18-2018, 06:02 PM   #24
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

Quote:
Originally Posted by brownvan View Post
I haven't done the switch input to the Ignition-Start/Manual-Override/Voltage-Sense-Override input yet. From what I can tell all the feature does is lower the voltage thresholds for enabling charging. Best I can tell, the charger works fine without it although I haven't continuously monitored the charger status on long drives to see if it is always charging. Do the diesel motors have a smart alternator that fluctuates the voltage output based on the starter battery?
It would help if you put your Sprinter's year and engine in (for example) your signature block...

That said, digging back through your posts, i think you have a 2017.
If it has the 6-cylinder engine, it's a moderately simple alternator set-up (always charging).
If it has the 4-cylinder, then it's a LINbus-controlled alternator, and may not even bother to charge the battery at times.

Even the older T1N models (much simpler) see the charging voltage drop from 14.2 or so to 13.6-ish after a short period of driving. I would expect the 6-cylinder NCV3 to operate like that.

Another handy use for a ScanGauge: easily watch the system voltage as you drive along...

--dick
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:40 PM   #25
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

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Originally Posted by 96r50 View Post
I have a DMT1250 in our van (OM651 I4) and I hooked up the ignition sense wire to the D+ terminal today after a few weeks without it. Based on what I have read here about the "smart alternator" that is present on the I4 it seemed that the ignition sense wire is a good idea to keep the DMT charging at all times while the engine is on.
So the 1250 (50A) version is finally out......seems like a great option.......20A extra seems to be a lot more attractive!
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Old 05-20-2018, 02:13 AM   #26
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

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Originally Posted by ddunaway View Post
So the 1250 (50A) version is finally out......seems like a great option.......20A extra seems to be a lot more attractive!


Yup, I got mine a little while back from DonRowe.com. I have mine set to 40A maximum and itís been working great for the last few weeks itís been installed.
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Old 09-15-2018, 04:41 PM   #27
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

I designed the electrical for my daughter's 2007 Sprinter van conversion and was attracted to the Kisae 1230 since it seemed to offer a couple of nice features: it would intelligently charge the house batteries when using the alternator as its source, and (according to conversations with Ricardo at Kisae) it would eliminate the need for an ACR since you could run the D+ wire to the charge controller and it would not draw any charge if D+ was low. This seems to be totally false. Since going live with the electrical, the starter battery has gone dead twice. Unfortunately I am on vacation now and have not been able to personally look at what's going on but I'm pretty sure that the reason is that the 1230 does actually draw some current from the starter battery so that if the van sits for a while without running, the starter battery can get run down. I've tried to contact Ricardo by email twice and he's been maintaining radio silence. I'm not very encouraged by this. Also, previously in this thread, he seems to have acknowledged that you need to put in an ACR with the 1230 and may not even be able to use the feature of running the alternator wire into the CH3 input of the 1230 so that it can intelligently charge the house batteries. So it appears that both of the reasons that I chose for buying the 1230 turn out to be false or incorrect. I'm still hoping to hear from Ricardo or someone else at Kisae but I'm beginning to lose hope at this point. Does anyone have any particular advice they could give me? At this point my main areas of interest/concern are as follows:

1. (Absolutely critical) Don't allow any house loads (or the charge controller itself) to deplete the starter battery. I thought the 1230 did that but apparently not.
2. (Nice to have) Be able to charge the house batteries from the alternator. One of the reasons I bought the 1230.
3. (Also nice to have but should not be essential it 1. above is met). Be able to charge the starter battery from the solar.
4. (Also nice to have but should not be needed if 1. above is met). Provide a way to parallel the house and starter batteries together in case the starter battery is low.

Thanks for any help, thoughts or advice.

Bruce
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:11 PM   #28
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

Quote:
Originally Posted by brucerpeterson View Post
I designed the electrical for my daughter's 2007 Sprinter van conversion and was attracted to the Kisae 1230 since it seemed to offer a couple of nice features: it would intelligently charge the house batteries when using the alternator as its source, and (according to conversations with Ricardo at Kisae) it would eliminate the need for an ACR since you could run the D+ wire to the charge controller and it would not draw any charge if D+ was low. This seems to be totally false. Since going live with the electrical, the starter battery has gone dead twice. Unfortunately I am on vacation now and have not been able to personally look at what's going on but I'm pretty sure that the reason is that the 1230 does actually draw some current from the starter battery so that if the van sits for a while without running, the starter battery can get run down. I've tried to contact Ricardo by email twice and he's been maintaining radio silence. I'm not very encouraged by this. Also, previously in this thread, he seems to have acknowledged that you need to put in an ACR with the 1230 and may not even be able to use the feature of running the alternator wire into the CH3 input of the 1230 so that it can intelligently charge the house batteries. So it appears that both of the reasons that I chose for buying the 1230 turn out to be false or incorrect. I'm still hoping to hear from Ricardo or someone else at Kisae but I'm beginning to lose hope at this point. Does anyone have any particular advice they could give me? At this point my main areas of interest/concern are as follows:

1. (Absolutely critical) Don't allow any house loads (or the charge controller itself) to deplete the starter battery. I thought the 1230 did that but apparently not.
2. (Nice to have) Be able to charge the house batteries from the alternator. One of the reasons I bought the 1230.
3. (Also nice to have but should not be essential it 1. above is met). Be able to charge the starter battery from the solar.
4. (Also nice to have but should not be needed if 1. above is met). Provide a way to parallel the house and starter batteries together in case the starter battery is low.

Thanks for any help, thoughts or advice.

Bruce


Hey Bruce,

I have the DMT1250 but it is the same unit other than the higher amp rating. I have mine installed in my van with the I4 which has the ďsmartĒ alternator so I have the ignition sense wire connected to the D+ terminal. Iíll see if I can help with your questions

1. I have a Victron Battery Protect 100 in the supply line from the starter battery to the DMT. It is set up to only connect when the engine is running, using a signal wire from the D+ terminal. I did this from the get go as I assumed that the DMT could continue to charge the house battery if the starter battery resting voltage was above the DMTís start up voltage of 13.2V. It may have been totally unnecessary but for the $50 the BP100 cost the peace of mind was worth it.

2. You can. Thatís all mine has been doing for the last 9 months. The starter battery connects to CH3 and the house battery connects to CH1 and the house battery charges when the engine is running. Are you experiencing something different?

3. The DMT isnít designed this way unfortunately. It would be nice though.

4. Same as 3. Youíre talking a lot of amps moving at one time though (way more than the 30A or 50A the device is rated for) so I donít see how they would have been able to include that. You could set it up with a bit more heavy cable and a manual Blue Sea switch if you wanted.

Hope that helps!
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Old 03-15-2019, 04:52 AM   #29
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

Hi All -

Iím looking at the Kisae 30a vs the CTEK D250s. I have the CTEK on my van and am happy with it, but just want to check all options for the next build.

Are those who are using the Kisae still happy with it?


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Old 03-18-2019, 04:27 PM   #30
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Default Re: KISAE DMT1230 Solar + Alternator Charge controller details

Yep! So far so good!
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