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Old 01-01-2010, 12:49 AM   #1
jackbombay
 
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Default High pressure pump removal

This is for a 2003, 612 engine. HKP 9/27/2017: Note that Jack pictures disappeared. I have tried to find replacement pictures from my and other's collections, and added my own observations in RED

Yesterday I noticed some diesel on the bottom of my oil pan, I could tell the fuel was coming from somewhere around the high pressure pump, but I wasn't sure where, as soon as I started the van it was obvious that the fuel was coming from the pump. These typically start leaking during cold weather, my van had was a florida van so it really hadn't been anywhere cold. Lately we've had some -15*F... This type of leak typically goes away when the vehicle warms up a bit, which was the case with mine.

At any rate, here is how to get the pump out to send it off to Doktor A for a rebuild.

Ideally you'll do this when the temp is around 20* F out, there are many advantages to working in cold like this, I just can't remember any of them right now.

I first took off the heat shield from above the turbo, HKP edit: and the intercooler hose, vacuum line, and after draining SOME coolant, 2 top radiator hoses, grille and the cross member. That will permit the radiator package to be pushed forward to give working room for the fan shroud, fan and pump removal. Additional help on this technique from Vic/Aqua Puttana here



You can drain the radiator and then remove it to get easy access to the HP pump, but it is less work to make a special tool to remove the fan from the clutch then remove the shroud to get to the HP pump.

Here are the tools,



One is a piece of 8mm allen wrench welded to the end of piece of 3/16" X 3/4" steel, with a bend in it to get around the fan blade and the other is used to grab one of the screws on the hub that the fan blade is fastened to as it will just slip on the belt if you turn the 8m allen without holding the hub in place, I tried using a long screwdriver to hold it, but that would be really tough to do.

Here is a pic of the holder tool hooked to one of the screws , this is after I removed the fan ;-) HKP edit: note in the picture of the radiator push-out above that I was able to remove the fan shroud BEFORE going after the fan. Much easier



I first tried to make the holder tool with 2 holes to fully surround 2 of the screws, but the 1/8" steel I sued was too thick to fit between the fan and the clutch body, so I cut it down to the hook type tool you see. a 1/2" hole is just a bit bigger than the head of the screws and works well, if you have some thinner steel around and want to do the 2 hole style holder tool, the holes needs to be 4cm apart center to center, 1/2 holes work well.

Once I cracked the 8mm bolt loose I used the hook tool to turn the clutch hub while holding the 8mm allen tool, I did that for a few turns and was then able to fit my hand through the fan blade to spin the bolt out with my fingers. The fan blades are not evenly spaced, there is one opening that should work unless you have REALLY big hands.

Next you need to unclip the trans cooler lines from the fan shroud, there are 2 on the passenger side and 2 on the drivers side,

Drivers side,



Passenger side,



The you need to get 4 clips off, you can just push them off with your thumb, but it does take quite a bit of pressure to get them off, a thin screwdriver inserted in the U shaped part of the clip prys them off pretty well.

You can see one of the clips here, this one is already most of the way off, there are 2 on each side of the shorud, the upper one on the drivers side is a bit hard to get at, I found it easiest to get it off from underneath, HKP edit: while relatively easy to take all 4 clips off, the driver side-lower is almost impossible to put back on again.
The trick is to remove the driver side headlight - then it is easy




Now the shroud can come out, it comes up to here pretty easy,



and then you have to push/flex the drivers side of the shroud towards the passenger side of the van to get the tabs past the radiator hose, I did this in 20* F weather and the plastic was just flexible enough to do this, in warm weather I imagine it would be pretty easy.

Now to unhook everything from the pump, first is the high pressure output line, a 13mm wrench to hold the fitting in the pump body and a 14mm to loosen the flare nut from that, here is a pic with the flare nut loosened/removed,



The electrical fitting is next, there are 2 tabs that need to be pushed in for it to come out, one on top and one on the bottom. I found the tabs pretty hard to push in, but pushing the plug further onto the pump, the depressing the tabs then pulling the plug off the pump worked best for me.

Here is the plug,



I found it easiest to grab with my left hand standing in front of the drivers side headlight, with my thumb above the belt and my finger below it,



Next the fuel return lines need to come off, there is a metal retaing plate that holds both lines into the pump, I used an 8mm socket to remove the female torx bolt, then pried the return lines from the pump with a screwdriver. I pried from the pump body to the line itself, I did NOT pry against the thin rim on the end of the return line,



HKP edit: next, the lower torx bolt on the pump is located behind the 2 clear fuel lines. You don't want to damage these lines trying to access the bolt. Those lines are held in place by 2 clips mounted on the water pump.
VERY carefully open the clips from the top (they will be brittle from all the heat and chemicals). In the picture below look behind the lines to see the bolt.


The pump is at this point not fastened to the engine in anyway, except for the friction of the o-ring that seals it to the head, the pump will wiggle pretty freely at this point, but was kind of a bear to get out after ~5 min of wiggling up and down and rotating back and forth and the pump not being any closer to free than when I started I pried it out with a screwdriver, I pried off the vac pump and put the end of the screwdriver in one of the torx screws on the pump while pulling with my right hand on the bottom right corner, it came right out.

Here is a pic, in this pic the pump is much already out. HKP edit: note the dog that interties the pump with the cam drive mechanism. It will try to escape once unleashed, so look for it when you pull the pump. Do NOT send the dog to Andy or as part of the high pressure core exchange.



and here is your pump, if it hurts your hands thats just because its really cold, HKP edit - picture of a rebuilt pump



The cross shaped piece with the slot/hole in the middle comes off easy, hang onto that and send your pump off for a rebuild. That piece does have rounded corners on one side, make sure it goes back on that way when you reinstall.

This took me about 3 hours with several breaks to warm up inside and the fabrication of the tools.

HKP edit: when reinstalling the high pressure pump, it will need to be primed. Use a MityVac on the forward clear line connector to vacuum diesel from the fuel filter through the pump.
Hope this helps!

Last edited by hkpierce; 09-28-2017 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:08 PM   #2
abittenbinder
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Default Re: High pressure pump removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
This is for a 2002 and 2003, 612 engine.

Yesterday I noticed some diesel on the bottom of my oil pan, I could tell the fuel was coming from somewhere around the high pressure pump

At any rate, here is how to get the pump out to send it off to Doktor A for a rebuild.
Nice job of documenting this procedure and clever tool making.

If I may add a few tips-

These homemade special tools are a useful addition to any '02-'06 Sprinter owners tool box. They will be invaluable when performing water pump replacement, belt tensioner replacement, idler pulley replacement, crankshaft harmonic balancer replacement, etc.

I would suggest owners take time to remove the accessory drive belt anytime they are working with the fan and shroud removed. That's a great time to make use of the easier access and inspect all the idler pulleys, water pump and the belt itself.

Anyone who has first removed the inlet/outlet lines from the low pressure feed pump, for inspection of o-rings, while trying to trace fuel leakage, can speed priming for restart after their high pump rebuild swap, by applying a hand vacuum pump to the inlet hose fitting at the high pump before reconnecting it to high pump.

If you disconnected the fuel connections at the high pump without disturbing connections at the feed pump, the system will self-prime with normal cranking.

Doktor A
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:03 PM   #3
abittenbinder
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Default Re: High pressure pump removal

My popular and affordable $299 pump rebuild service is a complete disassembly and rebuild, NOT a mere reseal job, masquerading as a rebuild.

Internal valves are disassembled, refaced and tested. Main housing and cylinder head faces are refaced. Transfer port fittings are reconditioned or replaced. Crankshaft is micro polished.

I stock all the internal parts. Most pumps that are sent to me require more attention than 'just' the approx. 2 dozen internal seals.

If your pump has not been damaged by misfueling with gasoline or by internal water corrosion or severe external corrosion, you pay only $299 labor and $50 for all parts and seals.

Shipping is just $20 for 2-3 day service and full insurance.


abittenbinder@yahoo.com

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Old 11-21-2012, 01:27 PM   #4
Fletchy
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Default Re: High pressure pump removal

Hi first post!
Just changed y piece fuel hose that runs to hp pump and need to check correct position for refit,does it fit to pump connection closer to fan or away?
Also pre-delivery pump lines were off ,now non-starter no fuel in clear line at filter or one of the hp pump lines.
I assume I need to get fuel up there somehow !
2004 2.2 cdi
I think I have just posted this as a reply,apologies I will get there!
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Old 11-21-2012, 03:02 PM   #5
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Default Re: High pressure pump removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletchy View Post
Hi first post!
Just changed y piece fuel hose that runs to hp pump and need to check correct position for refit,does it fit to pump connection closer to fan or away?
Also pre-delivery pump lines were off ,now non-starter no fuel in clear line at filter or one of the hp pump lines.
I assume I need to get fuel up there somehow !
2004 2.2 cdi
I think I have just posted this as a reply,apologies I will get there!
Did you use the "Search" function? I can only answer one of your questions, and I'm sure others on here have posted about your problems in the past.
As far as getting fuel up the empty lines, there are two ways that I know of. First of all, you have to have your fuel filter FULL of fuel.
Way one- crank the engine over again and again until the van starts.
Way two- Use a vacuum hand pump (google Mighty-vac) to suck fuel out of the filter and up through the pump on the front of the engine. (this is the way I do it)
Search for Mighty-vac in on the forum for a more complete description of how to do this.
Good luck!
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:58 AM   #6
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: High pressure pump removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshinelock View Post
I really, really could use those pictures right about now.
Some time ago I contacted the Original Poster and offered to resize or do whatever to post them again. They are gone.

I now encourage people to reduce the photo size and post the pictures to Sprinter-source so we can keep the information available. To date, outside servers are just not as reliable. Good luck. vic

Some "Basic" Tips for Posting on Sprinter-source

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23778

Some info for pump service.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
From Section 14-7 in my 2005 Sprinter manual. The manuals are available to download. Check the Database section of the forum for the links. Good luck. vic

This link may work. http://aie-services-2.net/Sprinter/

REMOVAL

REMOVAL - HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM - WARNING)
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove viscous fan clutch (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(3) Unplug electrical connector at high pressure
pump.
CAUTION: DO NOT slacken the threaded connection.
Use a wrench to counterhold at the threaded
connection when loosening and tightening the
union nut. DO NOT EXCEED tightening torque.
CAUTION: DO NOT crimp or bend fuel line. Capture
all fluids that flow out of connections.
NOTE: Using a marking pen, make a mark on the
outside fuel return line to easily identify proper
position during assembly.
(4) Unbolt bracket and pressure line at pressure
pump.
(5) Detach fuel supply and return flow line at high
pressure pump.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to drop the high
pressure pump driver and intermediate piece if
pump is being replaced.
(6) Remove bolts attaching high pressure pump
and remove pump.

Fig. 3 HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
1 - FUEL RETURN LINE
2 - FUEL LINE BRACKET
3 - HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
4 - O-RING
5 - PUMP DRIVE
6 - FUEL LINE BRACKET
7 - HIGH PRESSURE FUEL LINE FROM PUMP TO FUEL RAIL

EDIT:

INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION - HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM - WARNING)
CAUTION: Clean sealing surfaces with appropriate
solvents and replace all seals.
NOTE: Inspect then attach high pressure pump
driver and intermediate piece if pump is being
replaced. If wear is present at driver, replace the
intermediate gear.
(1) Position and secure the high pressure pump to
cylinder head (Fig. 5). Tighten bolts to 14 Nm (124
lbs. in.).
CAUTION: NEVER slacken the thread connection.
Use a wrench to counterhold at threaded connection
when slackening and tightening torque in order
to avoid also slackening the threaded connection
the next time.
CAUTION: DO NOT crimp or bend fuel line. Inspect
sealing cone at line; replace line if compression
exists.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to cross the fuel
return and supply lines during installation.
(2) Attach fuel flow supply and return lines (Fig.
5).
(3) Install bracket to high pressure pump (Fig. 5).
Tighten nut to 9Nm (80 lbs. in.).
CAUTION: NEVER slacken the thread connection.
Use a wrench to counterhold at threaded connection
when slackening and tightening torque in order
to avoid also slackening the threaded connection
the next time.
CAUTION: DO NOT crimp or bend fuel line. Inspect
sealing cone at line; replace line if compression
exists.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to cross the fuel
return and supply lines during installation.
(4) Attach high pressure fuel line to pump (Fig. 5).
Tighten to 22Nm (194 lbs.in.).
(5) Install viscous fan clutch (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Connect negative battery cable.
(7) Refill coolant system with proper mixture to
correct level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOU
HANDS NEAR PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT
WEAR LOOSE CLOTHES.
(8) Start engine and inspect for leaks (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM - WARNING)
A recent discussion is here:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24277
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 12-29-2012 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:00 PM   #7
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Default Re: High pressure pump removal

wow that s funny i think i,m having the same problem..although the simtoms are difrent.first off my van will not start without a litle spray..it seems to be getting harder and harder to start.on my wayhome from north carolina the other day.it started making a funny noise when i apply the gas pedle..it sounded like a ball bearing in a can being rattled around,when i released the pedle it went away.I thought it was the turbo ,so i have pulled it out..and noticed the oil in the intake hose and all over the side of the engine around the turbo..i,m going to have the turbo checked out by a turbo shop here in miami..when i looked at the turbo there was almost no shaft ply ...maybe the noise was the oil going through the injector????????i didnt notice much burning oil smoke..but after 19hrs of driving home to miami from ashville NC..wich normally takes about 12 hrs i,m frustrated..if i gingerly presson the gas pedle that is about 4miles to reach 60mph it then runs along great ..but if you press the pedle it makes that horible sound.anyway..i think while the turbo is out im going to have the high presure pump rebuilt and replaced..maybe that is the noise..if anyone has any idea please dont be shy..thanks pete-- pmflynn211--
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Old 08-02-2017, 06:14 PM   #8
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Default Re: High pressure pump removal

I guess it's my turn to contribute. I did the high pressure fuel pump removal today without tooooooooooooooo much trouble. http://imgur.com/a/lclaz

Capture3.JPG

I used a universal fan clutch and put a hex key inside a pipe for more torque. Each turn I made sure the Hex key was in the original position so I can easily put it in again. Couldn't figure out how to remove the fuel line clamps but they seem in good condition. Removed the electrical connectors and wiggled the pump for like 10 minutes trying to get it out. I rested it on the belt underneath probably a bad idea but I figure the belt goes through more stress turning at 5000 rpm.

My 6 bolts weren't falling out but were just a bit more than finger tight, removed, cleaned using brake clean, locktite, and retorqued as hard as I could per Doktor A's instructions. But the moisture diesel or whatever was mainly on http://i.imgur.com/tDpBtp7.png if anyone has any insight into this, maybe it all just gathered there because it is lowest point? No idea.
Capture1.JPG

Capture2.JPG

Capture4.JPG

Last edited by hkpierce; 09-13-2017 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 07-04-2018, 01:32 PM   #9
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Default Re: High pressure pump removal

Does anyone have photos of the tool for fan removal?
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