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Old 01-25-2010, 12:08 PM   #61
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

TYPES OF EXHAUST SMOKE

This may have value for Sprinter owners. AP/vic

From a Sprinter book:

The High-Pressure Common Rail (HPCR) diesel engine should emit very little smoke. White smoke is not considered normal. The different types of exhaust smoke indicate different problems. Following is a brief discussion of black, blue, and white exhaust smoke.

Black Smoke

Black smoke is created by incomplete combustion. The reason for the fuel being only partially burned often relates to one of the following problems:
• Excess fuel in the combustion chamber
• Insufficient air supply (clogged air filter, kinked hoses, faulty turbo)
• Advanced injection timing due to poor diesel fuel quality not recommended being used in the vehicle. Black smoke is caused by too much fuel or poor fuel quality and not enough air or time to burn the fuel. Black smoke is not considered normal and is often
related to low power or poor fuel economy problems.

Blue Smoke

Blue smoke is an indication of engine oil burning in the combustion chamber. Blue smoke is usually accompanied by excessive oil consumption. Any of the following con­ditions can cause excessive oil consumption:
• Overfilled crankcase
• Worn piston rings
• Failed valve stem seals
• Failed turbocharger seals

White Smoke

White smoke is caused by particles of fuel passing through the combustion chamber without burning and exiting with the exhaust gas. Fuel not burning is often related to low combustion chamber temperature. At light loads, the temperature in the combus­tion chamber may drop to 260°C (500°F). The lower temperature delays combustion, causing some fuel to be partially burned and
blown out with the exhaust gas.

NO DTC DIAGNOSIS

When diagnosing diesel driveability concerns in the absence of codes, use the symp­tom-based diagnostic tables in the Service Information. Always follow the Six-Step Diagnostic Process when diagnosing a customer concern.
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:31 PM   #62
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

Auxiliary, Boost Heater and REST Description of Operation

Search: Auxiliary Auxilliary Aux Booster Espar Heater REST function operation

As I was originally confused about the Booster Heater, Auxiliary Heater, and REST functions. I'll outline what I THINK I know for those who may not be up to speed. Edit: What I include here is basically correct. There is a fixed time heater switch option left out along with some other small exclusions in my notes. I'm too lazy to edit/correct this entire first post.

HeatIcons.jpg

The circulation pump on my 2004 is mounted on the firewall to the left of the battery above the EGR. One hose goes to the EGR valve. The other from the Booster Heater via a steel coolant line. The direction of coolant flow is from the EGR to the Espar heater. I'm certain that varies with year or if you don't have a booster heater (Edit: REALLY???.... should be and when you don't have a booster heater).

With my 2004 the coolant circulation pump runs for 2 seconds or so after the engine is turned off. Mine has a bit of a noticeable hum. It seems normal as there has been no problems other than the brushes wearing out.

Often the pump motor brushes can be replaced DIY to avoid the purchase of a $100.00+ pump assembly. Links:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...5&postcount=88
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...49&postcount=4
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...69&postcount=9

Apparently there is also a VW -Bosch(?)- branded circulation pump that is identical except for the electrical connector for a bit less cost.


The REST function is a timed operation of the electric circulation pump which scavenges heat from the engine by running the circulation pump and the cabin fan after the engine is shut down. On mine the blower fan runs at low speed with REST on. The rest function and LED cycle off if the engine is running. Per MB you can extract heat for about 30 minutes. The REST function does not operate the Booster Heater (unless modified).

The Booster Heater function is a diesel fired heater located below the battery in the T1N Sprinters. It is most easily accessed by removing the grill and headlight pod. The Booster Heater operates with the engine running to add heat to the heater core for the cabin heater. The OEM Booster Heater will not operate with the engine off unless the controls are modified for constant operation. The engine coolant pump will circulate coolant through the booster heater at low vehicle speed and engine RPM. The electric circulating pump on the firewall is not needed for the Booster Heater to operate when the engine is running under specific operating conditions (coolant temp, vehicle speed, +).

Edit: The Booster Heater can be wired to run with the engine off.

REST/Booster Engine Pre-heat with DPDT Switch Modification

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36797

The OEM Auxiliary Heater is mounted in the same location as the Booster Heater in the T1N Sprinters. The Auxiliary Heater has an OEM digital control panel which allow the Auxiliary Heater to be operated when the engine is not running. It includes additional timers and controls not included with the OEM Booster Heater. The Aux Heater can be used to pre-warm the engine before starting. It will also perform the same as a Booster Heater with the engine running.
Added: There is another less common OEM Auxiliary Heater version which has a simple dash switch for control/operation.

Some 2004 Espar Heater Notes
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30384

*************************************

2010/12/06 edit: A more formal description. Thanks goes to bc339 Bruce.
***
Quote:
Originally Posted by bc339 View Post
To add to Vic's explanation, trying to prevent further confusion, I copied this description in the service manual for the supplemental heater:

Vehicles equipped with the optional diesel engine are also equipped with a supplemental heater unit. This unit is mounted under the vehicle and operates similar to an oil fired furnace. The heater burns small amounts of fuel to provide additional heat to the coolant. Coolant is routed from the engine, to the supplemental heater, and then to the front heater core. This provides additional heat to the passenger compartment. The system is interfaced to the vehicles on-board computer systems and DRBIIIt diagnostics. The supplemental heater unit has an electronic control module that monitors the heat output of the heater. The heater operates at full load (5 kW), half load or idle mode (no additional heat) depending on coolant temperature.
OPERATION
The supplemental heater is activated via the temperature control on the heater-A/C control. The heater is activated when the temperature control is set to/or above the upper set point. The supplemental heater can operate in a full or partial load range as well as an idle mode, all dependent on the engine coolant temperature. The heater unit will also turn off if the temperature control is set to less than the lower set point. The supplemental heater can take up to three minutes to completely shut down when either the heater temperature is set below the lower set point or the vehicle ignition is turned off. The supplemental heater only operates when the engine is running, the mileage exceeds 8 kilometer (5 mph) and the fuel tank volume exceeds 1/8 of a tank. The heater should start if the coolant temperature is below 40° C
(104° F).

When I was troubleshooting my coolant pump failure last year, this explanation helped me figure out why my Heater Booster would work, but not the Aux Heater.
My Sprinter is configured with the supplemental heater located behind the left headlight - controlled by the Heater Booster Switch (below the A/C switch), REST feature and the Auxiliary Heater, controlled by the 7 day timer.
The Heater Booster and Auxiliary Heater use the same heater unit, but are not controlled or operate the same. The REST feature is totally separate.

Bruce
2010/05/09 edit:
Both the REST and Booster Heater are controlled by pressing the round knob like segments on the right of the dash in NAFTA Sprinters. With the engine running, the Booster Heater is operated by pressing the Bacon Bowtie switch. An LED will light for the function that is enabled.

2010/02/07 edit:
A recent thread about the booster heater. "Works while idling in 'Park' on my 2006 2500. Booster fires up almost immediately after starting the engine." Matt/Smoky pond
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9869
****
Additional info from Bill Drescher "houndsofheaven" on Sprintervan:
correct - my diagnosis of an inop coolant pump was made because the Esapar worked fine with the engine running [Add - The main belt driven coolant pump was operating. - vic], but shut off quickly when the engine was not running (Auxiliary Heater)


Another comment added by Bill:
and can be used to keep the engine/cab warm when you go into a store. It is one of life's great pleasures !
***
Some additional comments 2010/08/16. Thanks goes to Douglas.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...676#post102676
Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas Hicks View Post
Some heaters come with a duct for hot/warm air. I have a dsl fired auxilary heater for my 2005. It is an option I sspecial ordered. It is mounted behind the left headlite. My heater control is in the lower center of the dash panel. I push the button with the red squiggly lines, holding it down until I hear the to dosing pump click. Dosing is a fancy, expensive way to say fuel pump. If the driver's door is open, you can hear the aux heater come on, it sounds like a jet engine. The exhaust pipe exits by the left front wheel. The heater heats the engine coolant, which is circulated by a 12V pump. There is a thermostat someplace. If you have a diesel fired heater, no matter the location, run it for 10 minutes a month. The DAD is thought to diagnose heater problems.

Some heaters are mounted in the cargo/passenger area. In my 2003, we added a heater there. It is diesel fired, thermostatically controlled and forces hot air into the rear compartment. Some vans may have had that heater installed at the factory.

There is also another heater, the REST. It uses [scavenges] residual heat from the engine to keep the cab warm. Push the lower button to operate the REST when leaving the van for a few minutes. It will run w/o the key, for about 20 minutes, at least in my van.

Heaters are another mystery in our vans. No one, except Dr A understands all of the options in the Sprinter. There are rumors MB calls him for help.
20100918 edit - A recent thread which includes pictures of the various control panels for heaters. Rick found someone had replaced his Aux Heater control panel with an incorrect unit that didn't have the wavy lines. Thanks goes to Rock Auto and Ricksan.

Note: This is an unusual situation. A booster heater (basically runs when the engine is running) can be changed to an aux heater (will run as set by the controls), but it is not as easy as just changing the control panel over. A search will provide more information on the steps necessary.

New owner 2005 3500 158
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12704

2010/10/24 edit: A recent thread over at Yahoo sprintervan which has some good information from members.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/.../message/57741

2010/12/28 edit:
That list of options left out the T1N's rear cabin heat exchanger option: H13.

More info about the rear heater thanks to autostaretx (Dick) is in this post.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...81&postcount=7

2010/11/04 edit: A thread about the NCV3 heaters complete with pics of the controls. Thanks goes to all contributors.

NCV3 Heater Systems
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...470#post112470

REST/Booster Engine Pre-heat with DPDT Switch Modification
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36797

A recent discussion regarding the different OEM MB control schemes for the Espar heater.
I think I found a heater booster, but no switch
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...d.php?p=429313

Please feel free to correct any errors or add information. I hope this does some good. AP/vic

Program Timer

I found this guy's comments helped me to easily operate and program my 2006 Espar timer.

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Old 01-25-2010, 12:48 PM   #63
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

Thanks for the clarifaction Vic. I'm just starting to somewhat understand the difference in these heaters. I have a booster heater (I think) and it seems to be controlled by the right most switch on the control panel. I haven't been able to tell any difference when its been on. Good news is we don't need it too often here.

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Old 01-25-2010, 01:19 PM   #64
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

The REST feature is timed for only 15 minutes. By that time the air blowing out of the vents is already
cold, but if you are a delivery driver it could be the perfect thing.
Steve


Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
Auxiliary, Boost Heater and REST Description of Operation

Search: Auxiliary Auxilliary Aux Booster Heater REST function operation

As I was originally confused about the Booster Heater, Auxiliary Heater, and REST functions I'll outline what I THINK I know for those who may not be up to speed.

The circulation pump on my 2004 is mounted on the firewall to the left of the battery above the EGR. One hose goes to the EGR valve. The other from the Booster Heater via a steel coolant line. I'm certain that varies with year or if you don't have a booster heater.

Often the pump motor brushes can be replaced DIY to avoid the purchase of a $100.00 pump assembly. Links:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...5&postcount=88
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...49&postcount=4
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...69&postcount=9



The REST function is a timed operation of the electric circulation pump which scavenges heat from the engine by running the circulation pump and the fan after the engine is shut down. On mine the blower fan runs at lower speeds only with REST on. The rest function and LED stay off if the engine is running. I think I read somewhere that you can extract heat from a fully warm engine for about 1 hour. The REST function does not operate the Booster Heater.

The Booster Heater function is a diesel fired heater located below the battery in the T1N Sprinters. It is most easily accessed by removing the headlight pod. The Booster Heater operates with the engine running to add heat to the heater core for the cabin heater. I believe the OEM Booster Heater will not operate with the engine off unless the controls are modified for constant operation. The engine coolant pump will circulate coolant through the booster heater, although on my 2004 the electric circulation pump seems to run whenever the engine is operating. I'm quite certain the electric circulating pump on the firewall is not needed for the Booster Heater to operate when the engine is running?

Additional info from Bill Drescher "houndsofheaven" on Sprintervan:
correct - my diagnosis of an inop coolant pump was made because the Esapar worked fine with the engine running, but shut off quickly when the engine was not running (Auxiliary Heater)

The OEM Auxiliary Heater is mounted in the same location as the Booster Heater in the T1N Sprinters. The Auxiliary Heater has OEM controls which allow the Auxiliary Heater to be operated when the engine is not running. It includes additional timers and controls not found on the OEM Booster Heater. The Aux Heater can be used to pre-warm the engine before starting. It will also perform the same as a Booster Heater with the engine running.

Another comment added by Bill:
and can be used to keep the engine/cab warm when you go into a store. It is one of life's great pleasures !

Please feel free to correct any errors or add information. I hope this does some
good. AP/vic
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:41 PM   #65
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

Transmission Dipstick Use

Doktor A posted a good description of the OEM transmission dipstick and the way it bottoms out on "stop ears". I unabashedly steal this from Yahoo Sprintervan including the dipstick diagram link. Thanks to Doktor A and the Yahoo Sprintervan forum.

*****
Quote:
Originally Posted by abittenbinder View Post
Transmission service dipsticks do not 'hit bottom'. They do protrude from the
fill tube (at the handle end - added for clarification, AP) in the engine compartment and the amount of protrusion depends on the
model year, pre-'03-post'02.


While working on RSN, I spent a lot of time with the insides of the NAG1. I did notice something I had not payed attention to in the past during valve bodies removal for cleaning procedures.

The electric circuit board panel on top of the valve body has a plastic guide tube adjacent to the socket connector. It mates to the metal exterior fill tube. This plastic guide tube is the actual end point for transmission dip stick travel.

A diamond shaped step near the top of the MBenz service dipstick's plastic tip end, engages the funnel shaped step at the top of the plastic guide tube. Measurements reveal that the dipstick's plastic end NEVER CONTACTS THE BOTTOM OF THE SUMP.

The tip of the dipstick's end stops approximately 13mm from the sump bottom at full dipstick insertion effort. The tip CANNOT flex and bend with excess insertion effort because it is restrained by its step (at the top of its tip) by the upper step in this plastic tube.

This may be important info for people fabricating their DIY service dipsticks. Measurements on the dipstick are occurring 13mm from bottom of sump, NOT FROM THE SUMP BOTTOM. The service manual chart shows height in mm on dipstick. This apparently is not to be confused with actual depth of fluid in the sump.

Further info for people with the Miller Tools service dipstick-Do NOT use tool #9336 in the German NAG1. It could become jammed under that valve body plastic guide tube because it lacks a limit step. The correct Miller Tool number to use is the #8863B which will correctly fit and stop in the guide tube as does the OEM MBenz service tool. Doktor A


20120107 Edit: Some pictures of the Stop Tube Andy decribed above.

0001_100_1298.jpg

0002_100_1294.jpg

0003_100_1295.jpg

The stop ears on one style of dip stick

0000StopEars.jpg


20110827 edit: A recent thread in which I post pictures of my latest DIY dipstick.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...583#post149583

To view the following links you need to join the Yahoo Sprintervan forum. It's another great resource for Sprinters.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sprintervan/


Doktor A's post:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/.../message/54667

A diagram of the transmission dipstick end thanks to Stan. Note that the "stop ears" are not shown on this diagram:

ATF_Level.pdf

A recent problem with a dip stick. Unresolved as of this edit.
NAG-1 Trans Service Dipstick Kit
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11157

2011/02/17 edit:
My interpretation of the marks needed for a DIY dipstick which bottoms out. The thread I was replying to is here.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14684
***
Joel,
Maybe... depending upon your transmission temperature.

Going by the dimensions in this pdf diagram over at Yahoo...

ATF_Level.pdf

It shows that at 176F the level should be between 55 - 65 mm from the tip of the OEM dipstick with ears. Adding 13 mm to those numbers for the DIY stick puts you between 68 - 78 mm or between about 2.7 (2 3/4") to 3" from the tip of the DIY sticks. The transmission should be around 176F after you drive around to get the engine up to 180F by the gauge. The transmission pretty much follows the engine temperature under normal operation. There's about a 1 3/4" difference between the 77F and 176F readings. The 77F reading should be about 1 1/4" from the DIY tip.

I'd use the engine temp up to 180F range if it were me. You should double-check my interpretations.
***
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
This may save someone the expense of a dealer visit, or the effort needed to obtain the transmission temperature. It is also posted in my Stoopid Things thread.
...

*******************************


HOT Check Procedure

Take your Sprinter for a drive until the engine temperature has been operating at around 180F for a time. That will assure that the drivetrain is up to a "Hot" operating range. Find a level area to park. You can then follow the MB transmission fluid level test instructions.

This will also work in lieu of the MB instructions. After warming as described above, idle your engine for a bit. Don't shutdown the engine. Without actually moving the vehicle shift into reverse for a bit, into drive for a bit and then back to Park. This assures that the fluid is distributed in the various sections and passages. Check your transmission level while the engine is running. If you are within the acceptable 176F Hi/Low (Max/Min) range on the dipstick then replace the dipstick cap (after over 80,000 Sprinter miles I know that the red seal is not necessary) and close the hood. If you think that the level needs to be at exactly the tip top then you should acquire the temperature information. FWIW. vic

DIY dipstick reading tip: A DIY dipstick may not show fluid level as clearly as the OEM $$$ unit. I find that if I wipe the stick well immediately before inserting it into the dipstick tube, carefully draw it out, and then press the end flat against a flat piece of paper towel the fluid is easily read by what wicks onto the paper towel. I also find that after filling the transmission via the dipstick tube it is best to wait for quite some time before doing a level check. Otherwise the fluid hanging in the inside of the tube gets on the DIY dipstick as it is pushed in which makes seeing the level on the stick more difficult.

...
As always clicking the blue arrow icon in the quote box will take you to the original thread/post for more detail about "Hot Check" .


2011/02/23 edit: A recent thread about measuring transmission fluid level.
Info on Dip Stick from Dealer!!
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14804
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:40 PM   #66
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

NAFTA Sprinter cargo model floor pans are different


The floor pan of an OEM passenger model Sprinter has different structure to accommodate the seat brackets. Cargo models do not have that structure so adding a rear seat(s) is not just a matter of bolting in the brackets.

Edit 20100216 I may have used incorrect terminology using "structure" above. The structure of the floor pans may very well be the same. The NAFTA cargo model floor does not come with accommodations to just bolt in OEM seat brackets ordered from MB. Proper fastening for the brackets must be added. In a crash situation the forces on the seat bracket fasteners can be enormous. I hope this makes it a bit clearer.

A bit more detail is here:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...2168#post82168

As with all single posts you can access the original thread in the upper right corner. AP/vic
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16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 02-07-2010, 12:33 PM   #67
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

How do I find Rear Speaker or Trailer Wiring?

This seems to come up occasionally so I figured I'd give newer owners the heads up to save them either searching the forum, or searching through their vehicle.

If your Sprinter didn't come with rear speakers, the trailer package or the wiring option wasn't ordered from the factory it is 99.9999999% certain that you don't have any rear speaker wires or trailer wires installed. In fact, it is likely that the OEM vehicle plug for the radio doesn't even contain the pins in the rear speaker position to connect to the radio rear speaker output. There is no easy plug in point provided for trailer wiring as in some vehicles.

MB doesn't use the USA manufacturers approach of installing a wire harness with everything included and then just using the wires they need for that specific vehicle. If it wasn't on the factory order, MB doesn't install it so don't expect other accessory wiring to automatically be there either. Sorry, but that's the way it is. Hope this does some good. AP/vic
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:22 PM   #68
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

OM 647 Engine Fuel pressure relief valve part# 5166878AA

Search words: driver side Humm hmmm vibration noise shutdown fuel line

Another obscure Sprinter part for the 2004 - 2006 OM 647 engine that your dealer may not be able to easily find listed.

Thread is here:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7553

Thanks goes to Doktor A Andy and Sprintguy Carl.

Another recent related thread:
2004 Sprinter Truck Fuel Pump Loud?
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11089

AP/vic
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Old 03-21-2010, 05:28 PM   #69
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

Some General Info about T1N Fuse Blocks, Fuses and Relays

There is fuse block and relay info included in the NAFTA Sprinter owners manual. The information in this post may make it a bit more clear.

Fuse Block #1 under the steering wheel

012FuseBlock#1wNotes.jpg

Fuse Block #1 Arrangement (Note: There have been reports of varied locations of some fuses between model years.)

013FuseArrangementBlock1pic.jpg

Fuse Block #2 Under Driver Seat (NAFTA)

021FuseRelayBlocksUnderSeat.jpg

Fuse Block #2 includes Fuse/Relay Block

(Perhaps referred to as Fuse Block #3 in other manuals?)
20100813 edit. Apparently it is not a combination FB #2 & 3. Dick (autostaretx) thinks FB #3 is not on NAFTA models and provided a parts description in this post if you're interested. That seems correct.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...3&postcount=14

022FuseRelayBlocksUnderSeat.jpg

Relay Block Under Driver Seat (NAFTA)

023SeatRelayBlockPic.jpg

The method for removing the seat cushion (seat pan) for more access to the Relay Block is found here:

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...7&postcount=97

20100629 Edit:

There is some additional relay block info found here:

Relay Block List Map Diagram
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11752

and some more A/C Aux Fan info here deeper into the thread

ac fan doesn't run
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11631

vic
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:46 PM   #70
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Default Re: Stoopid things I shoulds known!!

Some Cautions Regarding The Fuse and Relay Blocks

The NAFTA Sprinter fuse and relay blocks have some history of connections getting loose and causing intermittent contact or failure of the contacts completely.

Some links:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...7&postcount=36
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...51&postcount=3
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...3&postcount=14

To help visualize the fuse block design Sikwan has a bunch of great pictures in his Headlight Modification thread here which are worth reviewing: http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4245

The ATC fuses used in the NAFTA Sprinter are common in automobile service. They basically look like this.

01fuse.jpg

The blades of the fuses and relays slide into contact assemblies like this. (Credit Sikwan for this picture)
You can see by the set of contacts to the left of my blue arrow that they have added structure to try and improve the spring contact pressure on select sets. Perhaps if they had done that to all of them...

fuse block with text.jpg

I have seen similar contact design to these in some power extension cords.

Here is my post comment on power extension cords.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...6&postcount=14

What I don't like about the design is that it depends upon the strength and spring characteristics of the metal from the base of the two "pins" to maintain pressure to keep good connection on the fuse or relay blade. There is no give in the design as there is in more traditional contacts so any twisting or turning can easily open the distance between the pins and begin loosening the contacts.

This is a more typical traditional blade fuse contact. The spring contacts are less prone to metal fatique.

3522-2betterContacts.gif

Doktor A cautions against using "fuse tap" type multipliers to add a circuit to the NAFTA Sprinter fuse blocks. I'm certain some of the reasons he says this are:
Many of the fuse tap units have a thicker blade where the tap comes off. Once that thicker blade bends open the fuse block contact it will never properly work for a standard fuse.
Anything which extends out from the fuse block adds leverage and increases the the risk of bending and loosening the fuse block connections.

Here is one style which isn't so bad for forcing open the contacts, but may cause extra side or twisting pressure on the fuse block contacts and force them open.

21wAMu2jHsL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

This one is worse because it forces open the fuse panel contacts by having a thicker blade.

1c4adfe6-eff3-4dd3-9dc6-0d727a44c382.JPG

I would not use fuse multipliers or fuse taps of any kind with the Sprinter fuse blocks (as Andy has stated).
***
20100405 edit: Apparently fuse clips can be purchased to use open spaces in the fuse block for expansion.

"For fuse blocks in driver's seat box under driver's seat part # for terminal ends for fuse connections is A-008-545-7926" Pistol Pete
***
To help keep the fuse and relay connections working properly I recommend carefully keeping only straight force while removing or inserting the fuses and relays. Using the fuse puller which comes in many fuse packs is one way to accomplish this. Another method is to use a rocking motion end to end to help loosen the fuse. Any twisting motion may spread the fuse block contacts and create future connection problems. Hope this does some good. vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 04-05-2010 at 02:42 PM.
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