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Old 05-22-2019, 06:12 PM   #11
autostaretx
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

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I have a new spare crankshaft position sensor onboard, but have held off install seeing the tach move and having synch a couple days ago. Since it is a hall effect sensor and it's pesky location and propensity to stick and possibly break apart, I am reluctant to throw it in until inspecting the wiring.
The CRANKshaft sensor is not a Hall sensor ... it's simply a coil of wire doing an AC magnetic pick-up of the passing flywheel teeth.

The CAMshaft sensor is a Hall effect.

See the files whose names start with 058... and a few pages higher here: http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/T1N_service_scans/

--dick
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SprinterSnale (05-22-2019)
Old 05-22-2019, 06:26 PM   #12
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

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The CRANKshaft sensor is not a Hall sensor ... it's simply a coil of wire doing an AC magnetic pick-up of the passing flywheel teeth.
Thanks Dick for the clarification and pardon my cam/crank sensor confusion.
The cam and crank position sensors are reading 'synch ok' this morning. Of course this can't be verified when it is not starting. The PDF link read gives the sense it could be the issue.

Question: Could the crankshaft sensor perform intermittently? Or does this sensor just go bad and stay bad?

The cam shaft sensor is OEM replaced 3 years ago.

I'm digging through the wiring now. No codes after clearing everything this morning. More details in a bit.
Thanks all.
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Old 05-22-2019, 06:46 PM   #13
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

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Question: Could the crankshaft sensor perform intermittently?.
.

Yes, especially if the battery is going south. At least thatís what Iíve seen a couple, so no expert, of times..
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:18 PM   #14
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

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.
Yes, especially if the battery is going south. At least thatís what Iíve seen a couple, so no expert, of times..
...and from the Europarts SD page"
When this part fails, it causes a "No start" condition, generally when the engine is hot. It may work again when the engine is cold but, will again fail at operating temperature."

That resembles what is going on enough to toss it in straight away. Located the spare under three bags of stale dog-food.

I appreciate your ever increasing knowledge of the T1s. Before going to Colorado, Philly or Carolina for Sprinter needs, NorCal T1s should check in with Vanski.
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Old 05-22-2019, 08:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

New crankshaft position sensor installed.
Camshaft and crankshaft position sensors synchronization 'ok'
No DTCs

For what it is worth, The old Cranckshaft sensor measured 1.38kohnms of resistance. The new one metered at 1.12kohms.

My original engine ground strap metered 130 ohms and the new one around 30 ohms (installed last week. ) I had that part for a year because I could not remove the 18mm nut on the engine mount side...until I saw this:

That bolt was completely covered in Locktite blue.

Time for a test drive to see how it starts after that.

Thanks guys. Dale
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:07 PM   #16
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

FYI 30 ohms is way too high. I assume that your meter must not be zeroed, as 130 ohms would not even let the engine crank. The new cable is likely fine though.
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:12 PM   #17
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

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My original engine ground strap metered 130 ohms and the new one around 30 ohms (installed last week. )
Ummm... do i detect a Harbor Freight ohmmeter set to the lowest scale?

Your engine-to-frame should be very close to zero ohms ... certainly not 30 (thirty).

I just measured mine (with an HF meter ) ... , poking one probe against the front of the engine block and the other against some bare metal up near the driver's side windshield wiper, i "measured" 14 ohms at the lowest (200 ohm) scale, but only 4 ohms at the 2000 ohm scale.
Which is what i also measured just crossing the probe tips.
I also swapped which probe went where (red and black swap), just in case current through the strap was skewing the reading. (an "ohmmeter" is really a sensitive current meter). There was a difference (at the lowest scale).
Disconnecting the Sprinter's battery would remove that residual current.

--dick
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Old 05-23-2019, 01:20 AM   #18
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

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Ummm... do i detect a Harbor Freight ohmmeter set to the lowest scale?
Your engine-to-frame should be very close to zero ohms ... certainly not 30 (thirty).
Whoops. The leads were plugged into the wrong meter inputs. Less than .2ohms engine ground to firewall post.
The old ground strap measures at .3 ohms.

Everything appears normal after a test drive into the foothills and back on the bumpy stage road. No DTCs. All starts have been normal.
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Old 05-23-2019, 12:31 PM   #19
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

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Whoops. The leads were plugged into the wrong meter inputs. Less than .2ohms engine ground to firewall post.
The old ground strap measures at .3 ohms.

Everything appears normal after a test drive into the foothills and back on the bumpy stage road. No DTCs. All starts have been normal.
Easy mistake. Thanks for the feedback.

Digital meter technology is quite mature. Designing/manufacturing an accurate meter isn't rocket science. Meters are much like watches. The expense of a watch is in the style, case, and marketing. Even the cheapest watches are accurate enough for personal use. Good quality test instruments have more rugged cases, switching, leads, etc. They're not necessarily heads up more accurate.

I have a few fairly expensive multi-meters which I've accumulated over the decades. For general troubleshooting I often grab one of the cheapy... actually free with a coupon, HF meters. They don't trace back to National standards, but they're generally accurate. If one goes wonky, throw it away and replace it.

vic
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:15 PM   #20
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Default Re: No Start 40 miles from home. I could SKREEM.

Right on the meters. I use a Tenma. Offshore built, but adequate to live in the tool box. My primary meter use is to verify AC voltage and grounds at venues, test battery voltages, measure speaker resistance and check cable continuity. That's an audio engineer for you.

Ironically, when I mentioned my ground resistances to my Dad, who is a retired EE, he did not catch it either. The Sprinter experts did. Thank you.
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