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Old 06-20-2017, 05:25 PM   #41
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

OldWest composed a nice overview of Sprinter alternators and some parts/repair links.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWest View Post
Not a mechanic or techie, so please correct any mistakes in the following.

Westies have a Bosch 200 amp alternator.

I wonder if this Bosch alternator is designed for continuous duty use and if our Westies put a heavy burden on the alternator from recharging coach batteries and running the rooftop air conditioner.

It seems like Westy owners are having to replace the alternator or voltage regulator at relatively low mileage.

There are three issues to watch: corrosion from road spray, voltage regulator, and pulley.

1. Corrosion (Colorado folks, etc.)

LindenEngineering posted that road spray from certain states with snow chemicals can create corrosion and alternator problems. Fix is to clean.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...8&postcount=11

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...45&postcount=6

2. Voltage Regulator

The voltage regulator is a screwed-in plug-in part at the back of the alternator. It has brushes (rectangular metal prongs like an electrical plug) which contact a spinning cylinder. Over time, the brushes wear down so the alternator does not provide consistent voltage.

Often, it is the voltage regulator which is the issue and not the rest of the alternator. As the regulator is about $60-90 compared to a new alternator of $350 to $900, may be worthwhile to replace the voltage regulator.

No obvious test to see whether voltage regulator or rest of alternator is at issue, but if alternator looks clean on outside (no scorch marks) and no issue with pulley (see below), then low and/or fluctuating voltage readings maybe a faulty voltage regulator.

(Assume one has checked all cable connections and cables before looking at voltage regulator.)

Our central computer console shows voltage at coach batteries which may be a sufficient proxy for reading alternator voltage output when engine is running (no solar panels).

TFrazie did extensive research to find the correct part number. Follow-up poster confirmed Tim's info in the first thread below.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ght=Alternator

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...69&postcount=4

3. Pulley

At the front of the alternator is a special clutch type pulley. These pulleys often fail before the alternator fails.

A worn or defective pulley will often cause the serpentine belt to flutter and can wear out the tensioner (often causing various pulleys and/or serpentine belt to break).

A. Inspect the serpentine belt for flutter when engine is running.

B. When engine is turned off, listen for any funny noises for a few seconds after turning off engine (defective alternator pulley often makes noise).

C. Visually look at alternator pulley for proper alignment with rest of serpentine belt components.

D. Remove serpentine belt. [Following needs to be confirmed/corrected.]

1. Rotate and spin alternator pulley clockwise. Should be smooth rotation (but not freely spin?). Inside alternator fins should also move.

2. Rotate alternator pulley counterclockwise???

3. Stick a plastic pen through an opening at front of alternator and between the fins so fins can't move. Then try to rotate alternator pulley clockwise. Pulley should be locked and not rotate.

4. Stick a pen like #3 above, and rotate pulley counterclockwise. Pulley should rotate counterclockwise (but not freely spin?).

If have a pulley problem, can replace pulley. Will need special tools, available from Europarts-SD.com

As the price of the pulley and tools may approach half the price of a new alternator, some folks just buy a new alternator.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ight=Magnesium

4. Replacement Alternator

By buying the Bosch 200 amp alternator, you can save a lot of money versus buying the 200 amp alternator from Dodge or Mercedes.

Discus located the Bosch AL0817N as the correct 200 amp replacement for our Westies. The Bosch replacement has the pulley and the voltage regulator as part of the alternator.

Discus and Juju purchased from Amazon.

Europarts-sd.com also carries but at a higher price.

Eurocampers.com sells rebuilt ones at an even higher price.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ernator+pulley

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=18432
Some of the links will take you to a specific post number. To access the original post you can click on the "Thread" link in the upper right hand corner.

To those posting links.
After accessing the specific post you want a link to (by clicking the upper right post number), click on the "Thread" link in the upper right. That will take you to the same post within the original thread. Copy that URL. It will take people to the post you wanted, but within the original thread. (Note that the URL will end with "p=XXXXX#postXXXXX". It is that addition which directs to a specific post in the thread.)

vic
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 06-20-2017 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 08-02-2017, 12:58 AM   #42
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

So I got back to my 2006 after about 4 months of it sitting and lo and behold, the battery light was now on. Did a bit of poking around and cleaning up connections, and it seemed the alternator was indeed the culprit.

So, Used this writeup today to swap in a new bosch 120a AL0801N alternator (Spain) I purchased on Amazon for $174, replacing a 90a bosch reman unit (UK) that some PO must have put in who knows how long ago. I suspect, after removing and inspecting it, that maybe just the regulator went to heck.

The hint to replace the TR mounting bolts seems like a good one. I was starting to strip mine.
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Old 09-08-2017, 03:09 AM   #43
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintageWein View Post
So I got back to my 2006 after about 4 months of it sitting and lo and behold, the battery light was now on. Did a bit of poking around and cleaning up connections, and it seemed the alternator was indeed the culprit.

So, Used this writeup today to swap in a new bosch 120a AL0801N alternator (Spain) I purchased on Amazon for $174, replacing a 90a bosch reman unit (UK) that some PO must have put in who knows how long ago. I suspect, after removing and inspecting it, that maybe just the regulator went to heck.

The hint to replace the TR mounting bolts seems like a good one. I was starting to strip mine.
I'd think twice using a cheap 6 mm bolt. The alt. mnt bolts are long and a cheap bolt may twist off next time you try to remove it. Get the correct grade at an auto parts store.
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Old 04-10-2019, 10:54 PM   #44
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Went to replace the alternator today in my 2004, and the upper bolt on the turbo resonator bracket stripped on me pretty quickly. I can’t get it to budge and there isn’t really any room to get any other tool other than the 1/4” wrench up to the bolt. If anyone has any ideas that would be much appreciated, I’m new to DIYing things.
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Old 04-10-2019, 11:55 PM   #45
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Unfortunately, the 1/4" wrench is really a fudge that happens to work (usually) on the E-torx bolt that's there.
You've rounded off the tips of the "star" of the head of the bolt.

Using the *correct* wrench may be able to grab enough of the remaining head to help remove it.
Doing a pre-squirt (or soaking) with a penetrating oil (or WD40) and letting it soak in for a few hours may help.

If you're not experienced with the technique, i hesitate to recommend heating the area that the bolt is screwed in to, due to the chance of starting a fire. (the mantra is: heat the nut or chill the bolt)

Putting back in the other bolt can also help, since it will relieve the torquing effect of the load on the bracket. (there was a recent thread on trying to get "the last bolt" out of a transmission controller plate)

--dick
p.s. i'm sorry, but i don't know/recall the "correct" socket designation ... i was lucky in that the 1/4" worked for me.
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Last edited by autostaretx; 04-10-2019 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 04-11-2019, 02:54 AM   #46
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Hey Dick,
thanks for the tips.

Ultimately I ended up taking out the turbo resonator and the bracket together without un-mounting the turbo resonator at all. Basically I left the 1/4" bolts in and just removed the two alternator bolts (with much difficulty) that held the bracket that connected to the TR. Then it was just a matter of shimying the whole thing out. I didn't do so, but once removed, it would be much easier to deal with the stuck bolt.

Its also worth noting that I found some inconsistencies with my Sprinter and the write up, though mine is also a 2004 OM647. On my sprinter there is a metal coolant line near the alternator that connects to one of the alternator bolts (bottom right if you are underneath the van looking up at the alternator) via a metal bracket that is welded to the line. Due to this it is not possible to simply drop in a 150 amp alternator as a replacement for the 90 due to a slight size difference (It still fits but wont slide in). To overcome this I simply removed a diagonal support bracket behind the alternator that was held in with one 10 mm Etorx bolt and one 14 mm bolt on top, installed the alternator then replaced the diagonal bracket.

Took 6.5 hours with two trips to the store and a lot of head scratching about the stuck bolt.

Thanks for the write up vic
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:13 PM   #47
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Thanks for this post.

I am in the pre-inspection phase of replacing our alternator (200A) due to a failed pulley.

I have a couple of questions before I start taking things apart however. I have uploaded a few photos.

From underneath, I can locate the 4 star bolts holding the alternator in place. Three of them (labelled 1, 2, and 3), all seem accessible from down below with a 3/8 ratchet and proper socket. All without removing the turbo resonator as suggested in multiple threads.

Bolt #4 (top rear), does seem accessible with a 4" extension, but a bit awkward.

So my question is why is the removal of the turbo resonator suggested to get to the alternator bolts when it appears to me (I am a novice mechanic), I can access them all from below without removal of the TR? Is it because I don't have the standard TR and have the metal pipe?

Thanks for explaining as I suspect I am missing something!
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Last edited by Kiltym; 05-07-2019 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:42 PM   #48
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

I don't remember exactly what the arrangement was when I pulled my alternator, but once I started taking out the bolts, it became apparent that I should pull the turbo res as well! I think one of the bolts is too long to get out, or you can unscrew it all but can't jiggle a path to actually free the alternator from the engine bay.

I remember even with the resonator out that it was a bit of a puzzle on how to twist and spin the alternator out of the cavity. It's a heavy lump of metal.

If you can do it without removing the turbo res, great. If you find halfway through you need to pull it out, it doesn't add much time to the job now that you're already in there. Just a hose clamp or two.

Good luck!
Dan
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