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Old 05-20-2012, 01:28 PM   #11
skydiver007
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
I haven't noticed any oil leakage from my TR.


I should think that the electrical connection location would dictate the orientation, but if there is enough slack ...

As to shims, there must be enough takeup in the tensioner for a slight difference. Just be certain what you do doesn't affect the pulley/belt alignnments. Changing the position may be the better solution.

This is my 150 amp Bosch looking up.

Attachment 43094



Good luck. vic

Even with a new resonator mine had oil in this area. I am not saying to go out and buy one, but the area where the alternator is mounted on most Sprinters is the worse area it could be with all the heat provided by the turbo.


If you look at the picture Vic supplied you can see that one side of the alternator is fatter on one side of the mounting screws than on the other side. The skinny side goes against the engine.
Anything you can do to keep heat and liquid away from an alternator is a good idea.

Last edited by skydiver007; 05-20-2012 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:12 PM   #12
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

I finally had some spare time to take off the 120 amp alternator and spin it 180 degrees and it fits like a glove. The "V-notch" side is the one that mounts to the engine block side. Now it makes me wish I had kept the 150 amp alternator. You know what they say about hind sight...
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Old 05-27-2012, 12:36 PM   #13
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

It was 20 below in February in a very little town in North Dakota the last time mine got changed and I helped the mechanic install it in his semi-warm garage. He mounted it backwards the first time too. I had forgot about the V notch facing the engine. Good Stuff.
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:44 PM   #14
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
My Experience Changing My 2004 OM647 Alternator

Remove tension on the serpentine belt tensioner. I use a 12 point 17 mm box wrench tied back to a hook in the frame hole. There is a hole for a pin keeper in the tensioner to use to hold to it back if you prefer. Check the tensioner for smooth movement while you are there. Replace if it doesn't move smoothly. Mine seemed fine. Use this opportunity to check all the pulleys for smooth operation once the belt is loose.
Something I found handy to do if I could add a small note to this procedure is to remove the airconditioner Idler/belt tensioner pulley and arm completly, it was in my way of pushing the wrench over to remove the tension from the main belt. After I removed the tension and slipped the belt off of the alternator pulley wheel I did not wire the wrench to the frame, I just let it relax against the pulley wheel on the engine, there's not enough tension that it's going to damage anything, but it had enough tension that it would hold the wrench to the tensioner and not fall off. I think it's a dream world to think that a pin could be slipped into the proper space to hold the tensioner back, I just did not have the room to get my hand up there.

I recently went through your procedure to replace my alternator that was not working, it made some growling noises for about 2 days, then it stopped charging the battery at all. When my battery voltage got down below 9 volts all of my dash lights were on and the van ran really rough in shifting gears. At 6 volts the dash lights just went off completly.

After finding the price difference in a new alternator at $1832.00 at a local Dodge dealer In Calgary(but they could get me an aftermarket one from Napa at $560) I went to the Napa directly and found their price to be $360 for a 3 year warranty, or $475 for an unlimited lifetime warranty, to the Parts source at $315. I called some alternator rebuilders and one would do it in about 1.5 hours, for $145. I figured that even if I had problems I could get it done twice for the same cost as doing it once from the auto parts suppliers.

I was surprised at the price difference, Shocked at what a dealer would charge, even after looking on ebay, and some of the links that people posted(great resources!) I was still looking at around $300 to get the alternator and have it shipped. Time was of the essence so being able to take it into the rebuilders office on a Saturday and have it back in 1.5 hours was a great service, the one I got back was not my original frame, but I don't care, this one was nice and new looking and my old one was an aftermarket one anyway. New one had new bearings, clutch/pulley wheel, brushes and Diode pack. Time will tell if the rebuilder did a good job.
Thanks to all who contributed to this post, I really appreciate the resources that this group offers, it gave me the courage/knowledge to try and swap the alternator out, I saved the 75$ charge that the rebuilder would have charged to do it for me.

Last edited by amrbackup; 06-18-2012 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Syntax error in writing english
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:15 PM   #15
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Exclamation Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Does the 150 amp Bosch Alternator fit the OM612?
I just picked one up. But thought I would try to get a confirmation that it will fit before I tear into this job. Found the answer to my own question! The 150A Bosch fits OM612.

Pictures attached

Attached Images
File Type: jpg New_Alternator_1_small.jpg (228.9 KB, 570 views)
File Type: jpg New_Alternator_2_small.jpg (119.6 KB, 556 views)

Last edited by Teknomadix; 08-26-2012 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Found answer to my own question ;-)
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:13 PM   #16
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Yes it should fit a 2002. All listed on the web say 2002 to 2006 Looks like you have a 2002
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:24 PM   #17
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

A common mistake is to mount the alternator with the fat side toward the engine block. If you look at your photos, you will see that there is a "V" groove in the middle of the bracket holes. Mount these to the engine block side and you will be fine and not have to remove it and do it again. Also disconnect the battery as you will blow a 200amp fuse under the hood if the alternator wire shorts against anything.
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:00 AM   #18
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Thumbs up Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Just what I needed!
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:27 PM   #19
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Thanks for a great write-up, Aqua Puttana. I used it every step of the way, and it was just detailed enough.
Bought the 150 Bosch from Europarts SD, along with the resonator eliminator, and new belt.
Recieved the alternator in less than 48 hours, from Europarts to Pennsylvania!
This was a huge help!
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:00 AM   #20
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

This is a great write up and an excellent tool list. Just pulled my old 90A and installed a new Bosch 150A I just got on Amazon for about $185. Incredible deal, I was dubious it would fit, but it bolted up perfectly.

The old 90A clutch was making a bit of a clack-clack-clack racket.

I would only mention that when installing the 150A remove the lower turbo bracket bolt, then crack open the 13mm at the top of this bracket (right under the turbo) so the bracket swings away. With this piece out of the way it makes for a huge amount of swing room when tipping the larger alternator up into position. When re-installing, thread the bottom turbo bracket bolt hand tight then tighten the top.

Has anyone been able to shoehorn a 150A into position without doing this? I can't see how it is possible, but this was only install #1 for me.
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