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Old 11-30-2014, 10:46 PM   #1
Aqua Puttana
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Default Windshield Rust Hack Job

I just Cheapo'd the repair of the bottom of my windshield too. I figured maybe the windshield rust repair should not necessarily be in Cheap Trcks. It now stands on its own cheapness.

The top windshield repair was November 2012. The bottom repair was November 2014. Both still look good to date. [Oct. 2018.]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
Windshield Leak Repair

Let me say up front that many of my more fastidious friends here on the forum are going to be thinking up front "That goof should have repaired that sooner." Of course that is correct. I guess my role in our little forum community is to be that brother who puts things off a bit too long and then works to catch up. There are already enough people always doing the right thing, so I view my role as important in its own little way.

Anyway, I've been watching the rust along the top of the windshield getting bigger. The bottom was even worse. I did some repair to the bottom, but access to the top was going to be difficult, so I put it off. A while ago I noticed some staining inside on the upper front area of the headliner. What a surprise.

When I got up there to address the issue I found that the rust had continued down under the trim rubber. I call it trim rubber because it doesn't seal anything, it just conforms to the opening. Like any other cosmetic trim, its job is to look neat and pretty. It is not a "gasket" or "seal".

The other thing that the trim does is create a covered channel where dirt can get in, build up and then never dry out. I had trimmed off some of that rubber on the bottom when I repaired the lower section, but as it turns out, not enough. I should have been more aggressive with the amount of rubber I removed.

To access the rust channel I took a blade and trimmed off the entire 3/8" - 1/2" wide little strip. (A section of the removed strip is shown in the pictures.) Once I had a piece started it was easy to pull up on the loose end and follow along with the blade to cut it loose. That revealed mucky rusted areas which I couldn't properly get down into and grind out or clean to bare metal. I planned on only doing the top area, but as more poor condition was revealed I stripped the trim piece down both sides too.

Because the rest of the body is also deteriorating I will not go to the effort of removing my windshield for a repair. I decided my plan of attack would be to grind all that I could to provide a good clean painted edge along the entire window. I then wire brushed inside the groove as best I could. After that was complete I used rust combining primer followed by spray paint. I followed that with a bead of black polyurethane sealant.

My thoughts are:
The windshield is bedded into a polyurethane sealant.
The fancy trim piece catches muck and debris so it contributes to the deterioration.
I couldn't properly clean out the groove channel to bare metal for proper painting.
Even if I could, the rust likely penetrates under the sealant bedding already.
MB uses the rubber trim strip for ease of installation and looks, not for additional seal integrity.
An added bead of polyurethane sealed to the newly painted edge of the metal should shed and keep water out.
The bead of polyurethane will allow enough movement of the glass for temperature differences.
The water may still migrate into the original rubber trim seal "U" shaped glass holder, but it shouldn't get past the OEM sealant or the new bead. (That is a bit of a guess.)

Come spring I am going to do the same poly sealant treatment to the bottom area. That will require removing the hood completely for proper access. (I didn't remove the hood. See below.)

A more severe approach to the rubber trim material might be to completely remove the "U" channel piece and all. That will expose the glass edge of the windshield. It will then allow the added bead of new poly to bond to the glass and the newly repaired surrounding metal. That may actually provide a better water barrier and solution than leaving the "U" rubber intact.

That said, here's some pictures. Some may want to try this also. vic

What I used to access the top area of the windshield. I wasn't able to just lean a ladder up to get there.

A01LadderAccess.jpg

The top area rust.

A02RustDamage.jpg

The cleaned and painted repaired groove. Notice how the groove shape lends itself to bead of sealant. The rubber piece is part of the strip I cut off to help show the size of it.

A04Repaired.jpg

A view of the side area sealant bead. I almost didn't post pictures of my caulking job. It is not very pretty. I couldn't find my normal radius end caulk finishing tools so I just used a straight blade chisel. Not great looking results, but it should be sealed properly.

A05SealantBead.jpg

The top bead of sealant. The edges are irregular and looks like crap, but no more leaking.

A06TopPolyBead.jpg

Edit: As of today 2014/01/13, 2015/07/21 20160117, 20170731 the repairs are holding just fine.
Added:
Dicor 551LSB-1 Non-Sag Lap Sealant - Black is one possible caulk/sealant to use around the windshield. It is commonly found in RV stores.

I used white Dicor on my 2006 rear windows.

Caulk Around Rear Windows
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...169#post511169
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 10-17-2018 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:52 PM   #2
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

Bottom of the Windshield

This is another repair which may not appeal to everyone.

My 2004 windshield has a Pilkington label without the MB logo so it is safe to assume it was changed. Many people who have replacement windshields end up with rust. Care needs to be taken when removing and installing the windshield or paint damage sets up future rusting.

For my 2004 Standard Roof (HC) the windshield label info:

Pilkington
M477 AS1, DOT 140
E2 (Within a Circle)
#42R-001082.

I'm quite certain that there is darker tint on top, but it is dark out so I can't verify that. I have Air Conditioning.


My basic goal was to seal things up and provide a protective shield using Eternabond Tape to shed water down over the rusted areas. I did not remove the hood.

Some pictures of the ugliness.

First I removed the old rubber trim gasket to allow me to dig out some of the rust.

Passenger Side with Gasket pulled out.

001PassengerSide.jpg

Driver side showing how I pulled the gasket out with linesman pliers.

004DriverSide.jpg

The general rust.

002CenterArea.jpg

003CenterArea.jpg

Wiper removal. 13 mm nut on spline.

005WiperRemove.jpg
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2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >183,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 11-30-2014 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 11-30-2014, 11:02 PM   #3
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

From there I painted and filled the open channel with sealant. Starting to look better.

006Painted.jpg

007Sealed.jpg

Before the sealant cured I added Eternabond 2" Tape in two applications. The first was on the lower metal. The second strip sealed to the bottom 1/2" or so of the windshield and overlapped the first tape.

008Taped.jpg

009Taped2.jpg


The finished product.

010HoodClosed.jpg


Eternabond Tape isn't really cheap, but it worked well for this application. I used Duro-last Sealant that I had on hand to fill the channel. Good quality polyurethane sealant might even be better. The Duro-last was bit runny. It is all covered by the Eternabond tape anyway so the sealant won't see the sun. There were some bits of polyurethane sealant from the previous upper repair which I needed to remove. That removed sealant was still very stable and well adhered. The paint and metal underneath looked great.

I didn't think of it at the time. It occurred to me that a wallpaper seam roller would have been handy to press down and seal the Etrnabond Tape to the lower windshield edge. I mostly just used the back of my fingernails.

I was surprised that when I completely removed the lower rubber channel it did affect the lower windshield sealing. I know that because as I used air to blow out the channel a small piece of paper on the inside fluttered and moved up. So if the bottom rubber U shaped seal is removed, it needs to be replaced by a bead of sealant.

Another watchout. I cleaned the bottom of the windshield to prep for the Eternabond Tape. I used blue painter tape to mask off for painting and sealing. I sealed the channel and removed the blue tape. I didn't clean again before applying the Eternabond Tape. That may have been a mistake. I had a bit of trouble in one section getting the Eternabond Tape to stick to the windshield glass. All the rest sealed fine. If it gives me any trouble my fallback will be to add an overlap strip of Tedlar Tape along the Eternabond Tape upper edge for a better seal. I really don't think it will be necessary. That said, always clean again just before applying any Eternabond Tape.

http://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW...bond+tape+2%22

2 ea. of these 10' rolls would do a windshield bottom. Shipping jacks up the price.

http://www.amazon.com/White-Eternabo...bond+tape+2%22

A better deal if you want some left over.

http://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW...GSMPA4BZXRK22P

Using 4" tape is an option. I think that the wider tape will be more difficult to install so may not conform as well.

vic

20160117, 20171007, 20181120 edit: The repairs are still ok. A new windshield wiper has managed to ding an edge of the Eternabond tape, but the seal has held.


Here's the link to the Brushtone Grey Painting Project.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...061#post329061
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 11-20-2018 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 11-30-2014, 11:35 PM   #4
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

Nice work, Vic! That rust sure was ugly!
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:22 AM   #5
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Crows View Post
... That rust sure was ugly!
I let it go too long because I really didn't know what to do with that bottom damage. I knew that I could seal the windshield like I did the top, but that still left the ugly rust to continue down hill. To grind the rust out and get it to a point that it would last is no small project. There was no way that I was going to remove/replace the windshield.

The Eternabond Tape isn't perfect, but it covers all the sins rather well. The water won't get to most of the rusty areas anymore. The Eternabond white isn't far off from the OEM Arctic Whitewash color. My plan is to maybe paint it gray eventually, but it looks pretty good as is. It's mostly hidden behind the hood.

As I cleaned some ice from my windshield it occurred to me that anyone using this fix will need to avoid scraping near the bottom of the windshield. Hitting the tape with a scraper will just make it ugly. If the Eternabond Tape edge is damaged it isn't the end of the world because the sealant underneath will still keep out the water.

vic
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Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
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16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 12-03-2014, 07:50 PM   #6
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

Ohh, nasty. i also have a leak on a 2003 on the top side of the windshield, but i have planned to take off the windshield ( i have done that before on another van), and repaint. The rust i have is far less tan this, so i think it is better to be proactive here, before it continues eating the metal.
I always remember a saying that i learned here, " you never have time to do it right, but always have time to do it again".
i will sure post another write up when i start on that task.
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Old 12-03-2014, 07:57 PM   #7
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
Bottom of the Windshield


My 2004 windshield has a Pilkington label without the MB logo so it is safe to assume it was changed. Many people who have replacement windshields end up with rust. Care needs to be taken when removing and installing the windshield or paint damage sets up future
Exactly!, i have seen guys who replace windshields removing them with hammer and Wood chisels!!! bastards:
They do not care if a couple years after, you end up all rotted. That was the reason i did it last time when the winshield cracked.
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Old 11-24-2016, 02:07 PM   #8
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

Dealing with a Crack after the Hack Job repair.

A stone cracked my windshield on the lower right. I have glass coverage, but my hack job window repair is holding so I really don't want a windshield replacement. Given the known rust problems replacement will require doing a bunch of extra repair either before or after installation.

I noticed the crack when about 3 inches long. Unfortunately it got longer during deciding what to do. When I finally decided to drill a stop hole it had grown to about 6" long. I believe that it is just on the edge of not passing safety inspection.

I picked up a diamond drill for my Dremel tool at Home Depot. Drilling the stop hole was surprisingly easy. I had tried super glue previously so I don't think a repair kit will properly penetrate now.

Anyway, my recommendation for short(er) cracks is to not hesitate to drill a stop hole. It will give you time to decide on what course to take even if you don't do the full fledged commercially available glass repair mode.

A Google search will get details for drilling a stop hole.

vic
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Old 11-25-2016, 02:13 PM   #9
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

I have had very good success stopping (and completely filling) cracks using the UV resin repair kits. With some skill, and good crack conditions, the crack can be made to disappear completely. Not bad for 15$.

http://amzn.to/2fZEXx7
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Old 12-05-2016, 09:34 PM   #10
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Default Re: Windshield Rust Hack Job

Yep, My 05 sprinter has the same problem since the windshield was replaced. The guys doing the replacement can very easily scratch the paint off, and not fix it. Rust follows.

Barry
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