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Old 09-20-2019, 11:31 PM   #1
Coast2Coast
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Default Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

For reinstalling any alternatives outside of rivets? Was planning on using the same holes I'm drilling out to re-secure floor. will do this while waiting on 24 TPI jigsaw blades to show up (roof vents), ordered the wrong blades. Saw takes the t shank.

Last edited by Coast2Coast; 09-21-2019 at 02:28 AM.
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Old 09-21-2019, 02:24 AM   #2
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

Factory floor removed in about a half hour, I threw away all the factory material between the floor and metal. I'm just wondering if anyone has had the patience to fill in the gaps with minicell foam yet on a T1N (seems much more detail oriented then a NCV3) or do most just lay down the foam and reinstall the floor on a T1N. I definitely don't want to use rivets the more I think about it, no sense having to drill them out again. I need some kinda screw that will sit flush with the floor and I can bolt in from underneath, any recommendations? Anyone that has used Por 15 or some kinda primer to keep rust away or is that overkill... I'm still trying to get the rest of the rivets out that are in the metal, I tried hammering them through but it looks like I will have to drill them out with a larger bit.

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Old 09-21-2019, 02:28 AM   #3
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

If you are using rigid foam, then just glue the foam to the metal, then glue the floor to the foam.
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Old 09-21-2019, 02:31 AM   #4
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

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Originally Posted by OrioN View Post
If you are using rigid foam, then just glue the foam to the metal, then glue the floor to the foam.

I like your idea of gluing the foam to the floor and using as a template and just let the foam rest between the metal and floor with bolts holding it down it should be fine. I would like to be able to remove it again if needed, encase of rust or something spills. I'm using 1/4" Closed Cell Cross Linked Minicell I got from a local supplier for around $7 a yard 60" wide, was under $50 for 90 sq ft, might have to go back next week for some more if I end up doing two layers and fill in the grooves. Beginning to think I should have gone 3/8" but the goal is to retain ceiling height.

The minicell closed cell cross linked polyethylene foam (white or charcoal) can be sourced out here in Denver at:

https://keystonbros.com/

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Old 09-21-2019, 08:28 PM   #5
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

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Originally Posted by Coast2Coast View Post
Factory floor removed in about a half hour, I threw away all the factory material between the floor and metal. I'm just wondering if anyone has had the patience to fill in the gaps with minicell foam yet on a T1N (seems much more detail oriented then a NCV3) or do most just lay down the foam and reinstall the floor on a T1N. I definitely don't want to use rivets the more I think about it, no sense having to drill them out again. I need some kinda screw that will sit flush with the floor and I can bolt in from underneath, any recommendations? Anyone that has used Por 15 or some kinda primer to keep rust away or is that overkill... I'm still trying to get the rest of the rivets out that are in the metal, I tried hammering them through but it looks like I will have to drill them out with a larger bit.
Drilled out the rivets and put in nutserts. Haven’t done any corrosion protection: probably just going to smear grease on thrm. Used flat head 1/4-20 screws.

Filled the grooves, then partially glued a full sheet under the floor.




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Old 09-26-2019, 06:22 PM   #6
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

I'm looking for a bolt that can go through the floor and have a nut and washer on bottom side to tighten underneath and secure the floor. It needs to have a flat head to sit flush where I drilled out the rivet holes in the factory floor. Any recommendations on the size or bolt type I'll need? This way the floor will be removable with simply getting under the van with a impact gun and loosening the nuts, no additional drilling will be required in the future to remove and I'll most definitely plan to go with thicker 3/8" or most likely 1/2" minicell foam and I might even have time to do the ribs the 2nd time around. Currently using 1/4" for the insulation which seems thin. I'll skip a few spots around the fuel tank area that are hard to get to. Can skip the rivets and rivets gun using this method and also have the capability to fix rust easier if it does happen by creating easier access.

Garandman what did you end up using to paint your floor, has anyone found a black top coat that won't scuff or come off during heavy use? My floor is shot (but still usable) and would be nice to cover up the imperfections for now until I can find a better floor.

Last edited by Coast2Coast; 09-26-2019 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 09-26-2019, 07:33 PM   #7
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

Have you considered putting Tee nuts in the floor? The could be countersunk 1/16" so they are flush with the floor surface. Then use bolts from below. You will need to choose a bolt that is the right length, so it doesn't stick out past the floor.

Also note that you will want to use furring material around the bolts if insulation is under the floor. Otherwise you can crush the insulation, and make the floor sink/warp around the bolt.
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Old 09-27-2019, 12:33 AM   #8
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

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Originally Posted by Coast2Coast View Post
Garandman what did you end up using to paint your floor, has anyone found a black top coat that won't scuff or come off during heavy use? My floor is shot (but still usable) and would be nice to cover up the imperfections for now until I can find a better floor.
Behr deck paint with a no slip additive.

Don’t usuálly buy that brand paint but it held up well on a trailer.
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Old 09-27-2019, 03:14 AM   #9
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

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Originally Posted by Midwestdrifter View Post
Have you considered putting Tee nuts in the floor? The could be countersunk 1/16" so they are flush with the floor surface. Then use bolts from below. You will need to choose a bolt that is the right length, so it doesn't stick out past the floor.

Also note that you will want to use furring material around the bolts if insulation is under the floor. Otherwise you can crush the insulation, and make the floor sink/warp around the bolt.

I was at home depot and looking at M6 Flat Head Phillips Metric Machine Screw(the M8 is too wide and they don't offer a M7), the head of this bolt would sit flush with the floor I think. Can you post a link of the style of bolt you're recommending? I'm thinking around a inch or little longer for the length. Flooring and insulation is only about a 1/2" with the metal making it maybe a 3/4" giving the rest of the room for washer and nut.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...4048/204841920

Good deal here considering they cost $1 each at home depot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Last edited by Coast2Coast; 09-27-2019 at 03:34 AM.
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Old 09-27-2019, 11:37 AM   #10
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Default Re: Factory Floor Removal and Reinstallation

Plow bolts may work.

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/=bba...7a53e9k121uk1v

Here are tee nuts.

https://www.mcmaster.com/tee-nuts/=b...7a53e9k121w4ry

Countersunk, otherwise known as flat head screws will work if you have access to the top.

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/=bba...7a53e9k121wttv
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