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Old 01-25-2014, 01:24 PM   #1
Aqua Puttana
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To help keep the other thread on track...

Originally Posted by teamtexas View Post
I guess I'm kinda where you were at a few months ago Vic. My 2003 has the espar for heating while the engine is running. As far as I can tell it has never worked (since I've owned it). I too, thought I would never need to use it and have put it on the back burner for a few years. But I found myself in Ohio at the 1st of December and wishing I had done something with it. I've spent a few hours reading through your posts on the simple modification for the controls and the not so simple repairs to the espar. I guess I need to get out turn some wrenches to see what shape mine is in. Thanks for posting all your hard work.
I must admit that the heater is nice to have in service. I've been using it to pre-warm the engine and enhance heat output pretty regularly. Now that I have it I would put money and effort into repairs should it go bad.

It wasn't really hard work. The learning process was what took the time. Had I not screwed up my burner screen "wick" I think it would have been easy. But then I wouldn't have learned as much.

My recommendation is to first do a good cleaning. You will need the gasket and graphited ring seal. About 20 bucks.

The gasket and seal kit appears standard for D5 units.
Gasket and Seal
#9 Seal 20 1752 99 01 01
Newer Number = 20.1820.99.0001.0A


You might get away with re-using the gasket, but it is a gamble.

A 2003 probably has the integral fuel pipe burner so you shouldn't need a fuel strainer and seals on hand.

The video in my Database link and my jumbled meandering notes should give you all that you need.
Some 2004 Espar Heater Notes

The critical path for Espar cleaning off the top of my pointy head.

Disassemble per video. Be careful of the plastic combustion fan. My electrical connector retaining clip broke. It's no big deal as the O-ring seal on the connector is very snug.

Gently check that the combustion blower fan spins freely. Kubbie used a 9 volt battery test. Replace the fan cover bolts to help provide fan protection from bumping.

Remove the burner tube from the housing and clean the combustion chamber soot.

Use carburetor cleaner or alcohol to clean the glow plug chamber. Gently clean the "D" chamber screen "wick" and slot. If the screen over the 3/16" was heavily sooted you might consider poking it to open the hole like the burner I show in my other pictures. The newer burner did not cover the hole with the screen, it just surrounded it.

Run a thin wire down the fuel tube and flush with carb cleaner. I suspect that you will see fluid weep down into the cleaned screen "wick".

Clean and inspect the glow plug. No need to remove it. It should be straight. I'm told that as they age they often curve which is an indication that they may be getting near the end of service life. It still should be good though. The glow pin can be tested with 12 volts DC, but be aware that the design voltage is less. 8 volts is what I recall so apply voltage and watch for a glow. As soon as you see glow remove the power. Kubbie used a 9 volt battery for a quick test on that too.

Clean any soot from the flame sensor pin in the exhaust chamber. No need to remove that for cleaning either.

Clean the "Ignition Air Duct" (Kanal) in the glow plug area. That supplies combustion air to the glow chamber. It is critical.

If your coolant has been regularly serviced I wouldn't disassemble the coolant shell. If it's not leaking leave it alone.

Re-assemble the Espar after cleaning. (I put a drop of oil on the combustion fan opposite end bearing shaft. I couldn't access the fan end bearing/shaft.)

Check the air supply tube in the vehicle to make sure nothing is blocking the air flow. Some creatures may think of it as home.

Install the heater in the Sprinter. Don't connect the exhaust yet. If the exhaust is plugged at all it could impede starting. Run first without it and then connect it later.

Type2teach Joel reminds us to check/clean the electrical connector plug contacts. That is good advice. I always spritz all my connectors with WD-40 before assembly. There may be better products available, but WD-40 is handy and has done well for me.

Before re-connecting the fuel line you should do the Fuel Quantity Test. I like the Baby Medicine Spoon, but you can just catch and measure for a little over 1 1/2 teaspoons of fuel after 90 seconds.

Install the fuel line and test the heater.

After it operates remember to re-connect the exhaust tube.

I thought I'd be smart and put a thin coat of Never Sieze on the thick paper gasket to keep it from sticking. That was not a good idea. The next disassembly I found the Never Sieze soaked into paper layers and caused a bit of delamination. By using a blade upon disassembly I was able to separate and re-use the gasket, but installing it dry is my recommendation.

That's basically it. Good luck. vic

Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post

Some other 2004 Espar Booster Heater threads which I've posted are here:

Remove Espar Heater from T1N

General Espar Heater Wiring Information

Cabin Fan Resistor Circuits

T1N Booster Heater Wireless Control
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30512 ...
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 01-27-2014 at 06:48 PM.
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