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Old 02-23-2011, 07:04 PM   #1
MillionMileSprinter
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Default Window Regulator Fix

Don't know if this also works on the newer Sprinters, but I've got an '02. YMMV

Symptom- driver's side window kept falling down. Motor ran fine, but didn't affect the window moving up or down. So I searched the forum and found a cheap fix with some plastic closet wheels. I went looking at Home Depot for the wheels, and I'm so glad that the poster mentioned that the wheels were 5/8". All I could find were 7/8" wheels and another plastic slider piece that I bought on a whim. Good thing I did. The wheels were too big.
The rectangular plastic piece turned out to be perfect. I clamped down a rough file in my vice and used it to file down the piece to match the size of the broken plastic piece from the window.
Then I took the threaded rectangle and used my grinder to grind that down to the right size, too. I wanted it recessed, so I threaded a screw into it, held the screw with some pliers and used a torch to heat up the threaded piece. Then I pressed it into the plastic piece. VIOLA! I was very happy with the results.
I found another screw that was long enough and some tiny washers that worked and within an hour, the window was working again!
Enjoy the pics. The first two are of the modified piece next to the original. The next two show the recessed threaded square next to the original. The last is of the original, the modified and the broken MB piece from the window.
Enjoy.
Joel in Philly
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:13 PM   #2
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Default Re: Another window regulator fix with pics

Good technique. I recently used the shower curtain roller to repair mine - as advised on this forum. Works great. But I had considered a setup much like what you did. Glad to see that it works well. That was going to be my first line of defense if the roller didn't work.
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:35 PM   #3
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Default Re: Another window regulator fix with pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnschroader View Post
Good technique. I recently used the shower curtain roller to repair mine - as advised on this forum. Works great. But I had considered a setup much like what you did. Glad to see that it works well. That was going to be my first line of defense if the roller didn't work.
What I did was using a shower and tub curtain 3/4 inch roller.I ground to fit the rail and .Ground off the pin from the arm and push the pin out and now I have 3/8 hole in the arm .Then I use a 8-32 screw and a washer and works like charm
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:35 PM   #4
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Default Re: Another window regulator fix with pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarnut View Post
What I did was using a shower and tub curtain 3/4 inch roller.I ground to fit the rail and .Ground off the pin from the arm and push the pin out and now I have 3/8 hole in the arm .Then I use a 8-32 screw and a washer and works like charm
Very creative jbarnut !

As a 2006 Sprinter owner, I'll choose to order my defective Window Regulator from http://www.partstrain.com/store/inde...ow%20Regulator
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:24 PM   #5
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Default Re: Another window regulator fix with pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit The Road Jack View Post
Very creative jbarnut !

As a 2006 Sprinter owner, I'll choose to order my defective Window Regulator from http://www.partstrain.com/store/inde...ow%20Regulator

***Warning*** The Window Regulator plastic parts I ordered from 'Partstrain' for my 2006 Sprinter were way too large to fit into the track !

I ended up using a similar sized to the original half-round Carriage bolt & washer for the fix...IMHO metal is far better for this situation, works terrific ;)
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Old 08-25-2012, 02:40 AM   #6
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

With information from this page I was able to repair my regulator. I used rollers I purchased from Lowe's that are for a closet door. It's only been installed a couple days, but it's working. Cost $4 for rollers, $10 for tap, and correct drill bit for tap. Hope it holds, $14 beats $230 for new regulator. Not really that difficult. Good Luck!
See my attachment for directions.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:59 AM   #7
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

I scrambled to 'fix" my window slider today. Found a $2.50 poker chip, cut it to fit the rail on window. Cut out a U shaped notch in the poker chip, to engage the actuator pin. In order to engage the slider pin, and get the chip into the window rail, I removed the actuator assembly and moved it slightly , so the chip could slide into the rail.
Added a good amount of grease to the rail, and it's working like a charm.....for now.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:17 AM   #8
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by L8RSK8R View Post
... Found a $2.50 poker chip, cut it to fit the rail on window. ...Added a good amount of grease to the rail, and it's working like a charm.....for now.
Nice.

I believe the original poker chips were made of clay. Don't worry though, you'll be fine until it rains... San Diego is generally dry.

vic

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
A compilation from two threads.

Bending the Arm and Lubrication.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cacaw View Post
...
Edit: got it done with a small zip tie around the plastic piece that broke. But after bending the arm, the zip tie is superfluous - the arm is now pressing tightly into the track on its own accord and there's no way it's going to come out of the track.
If not bent in enough apparently a slammed door can knock it loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmadeintheshade@gmail.com View Post
I bought the replacements and realized I needed to drill out the remaining broken part in the actuator arm. Forgive the lack of accurate terminology. Time was short, so I slightly bent to arm enough to keep it in the track and with a little lithium grease, away I went.

The only time it has popped out was when a mechanic slammed the door. That was a one time lesson. These doors do not have to ever be slammed shut. If I ever feel so inclined, I will drill out the offending piece and install the Ebay piece. Bouncing around Baja last winter did not affect this temporary fix. Only a careless mechanic has caused me to go back in there and push it back into place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohlsonmh View Post
After reading a lot of things here & on Youtube, we just bent the arm toward the outside of the door - it's pretty springy so we put a block of wood behind it & then used a pipe-wrench for leverage and bent it so that it holds the stud in the window-bottom track where the broken plastic slide used to be. The window rides up & down on the stud, rather than a 'fancy' slide.

Works great. No cost. Hardest part was getting the door panel back on.

-Oly
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
Lubriplate is an excellent choice.

I used regular old *modern* wheel bearing grease to lube the 2004 and 2006 tracks. In my experience modern wheel bearing greases do not dry out or harden.

If the tracks are periodically lubed, I see no reason that the bend the arm trick and using the metal button only won't be good. The T1N's are old. A greased metal button as a slide will outlast the service life of an old T1N.

Lubing the tracks isn't difficult.

Lube Grease Window Track and Parts
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=75849

vic
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 07-09-2019 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 10-20-2013, 02:14 PM   #9
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

Your fix sounds like a gamble.
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Old 12-10-2015, 08:19 PM   #10
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

First off, THANK YOU to every poster on this Window regulator repair thread. You have all been helpful and progressed me towards what I think is a very good and relatively easy fix. Much better than OEM engineered imminent failure.

You'll need four pieces:
-1" flush head hex bolt, "SS #10-32 x 1in Socket Cap Screw Fine"
-nylon lock nut, "#10-32 Nylon Lock Nuts Stainless"
-1 1/2" flat washer (with small hole)
-flat bracket (don't have the details yet)

In a nutshell, I drilled out the arm and removed the spindle and replaced it with the bolt through a flat steel bracket. Then I used the lock nut with a drop of thread lock for good measure to hold it all together.

To drill the arm without removing the whole apparatus, I used a pair of vise-grips to hold the arm still by clamping it to the frame of the door.

The bracket (slider) is about 3" and I just used a file to round off the edges a bit so as to reduce friction in the channel.

The flush head bolt goes through the bracket, then slides into the channel. The trick is to be able to hold the head in order to thread on the nut after the arm is on. So I drilled a hole in the channel so I could get an allen wrench in from the back side to hold the bolt head while threading on the nut.

The washer goes between the channel and the arm.

Getting it all to line up with the arm took some fiddling, and I was racing the incoming weather and it was getting dark. I really didn't want to remove the whole regulator. I got it done, greased the hell out of it and voila! The bolt came in a 2-pack and the nuts were in a 4-pack both from Home Depot, so I have the parts ready for the passenger side repair. I had the washer and bracket on my workbench so all said and done it cost less than $4

True, it's not fully tested, but I feel pretty confident that it will hold. I'll let y'all know if anything changes.
Good luck!
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