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Old 03-22-2011, 01:04 AM   #21
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Adding Power Windows

If lack of power windows in the used van you are considering is a stumbling block, there may be a DIY solution for you at reasonable cost.

Here's a thread which discusses adding aftermarket power window motors. Thanks goes to Jmoller99.

Adding Power Windows to Sprinter with manual hand cranks

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...770#post128770

vic
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2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:16 AM   #22
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Adding Cruise Control to a T1N Sprinter

Along the same lines as power windows, cruise control can be added. The installation can be done DIY, but you will most likely need a dealership for the program changes.

OEM Cruise Control install retrofit upgrade add

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13925

Adding Cruise

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...cruise+control

vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:37 PM   #23
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Default Adding high idle switch?

What is the possibility of adding a high idle switch to my 05 diesel ?

Jonny
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Old 03-24-2011, 11:16 PM   #24
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Default Re: Adding high idle switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mydoghasfleas View Post
What is the possibility of adding a high idle switch to my 05 diesel ?

Jonny
Search and ye' shall find. I used "add high idle" in the blue bar search above.


http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...=add+high+idle


http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...=add+high+idle

and just for thought...

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...=add+high+idle

There were more threads if you duplicate the search. Have fun. vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
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16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.
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Old 03-25-2011, 12:31 AM   #25
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Thanks, Vic
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Old 06-04-2011, 03:06 PM   #26
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Byron glas1700 reminded me about this over in Yahoo Sprintervan.


Re - 2005
"If you bought the van new, it should be covered under the 7yr/70K mile warranty.
If you are the second owner and you paid Dodge to transfer the warranty within
the 30 day limit, then you should also be covered.

Byron 07 Navion"

Remember to check on any possible warranty left for your purchased Sprinter and to transfer it within the time period allowed or you'll lose it. vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 07-30-2011 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:43 PM   #27
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Low Miles (Sitting Outside) is not always just good news

I think some good stuff was brought up in this recent thread. Thanks goes to all contributors. vic

Ready to Buy an 07 View - Pre purchase inspection


http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...803#post149803
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 09-12-2011 at 02:08 PM.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:06 PM   #28
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

A quick check to see if the A/C on a T1N is low on refrigerant and may need repair soon. (This check may work on an NCV3 model also, but nobody has gifted one to me to use for research and testing yet. )

APACT

A few times I've read about the driver side T1N air conditioning top vents running warmer than the passenger side vents. The very top dash vents are after the A/C evaporator coil and before the heater core. That means that they supply either ambient temperature air (cabin and outside makeup air combined) or during summer temperatures, air which has been cooled by the evaporator coil.

My 2004 vents started doing that. Here's my theory.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
I believe the ATC is fairly expensive and probably not the culprit. Yesterday I too noticed that my passenger side top vent and passenger side dash face vents blow noticeably colder than the driver side.

I know enough about HVAC to be dangerous. I'm not an expert. Those here at Sprinter-source who I have come to gain confidence in regarding HVAC systems most all recommend evacuation followed by a measured charge. Certainly it is possible to charge a system using the charts and gauges, but that leaves room for error.

Let's try this on for size even though I don't yet know what the duct arrangement is. The two top vents being uneven in temperature to each other in my case is a key. The top vents are after the evaporator, but before the heater core so any coolant control valve or other ATC control isn't involved there as long as the compressor is working.

I may be low on freon, as you may be also. What if our low charge is causing the evaporator coil to not be evenly cooled. Depending upon the distribution of freon to the coil there may be warm spots. The coil fins set up a fairly linear flow in a straight duct. If the ducts to the passenger side come off the top (or one side) and the driver side come off another section then maybe the passenger side is being fed by a colder section of evap coil? Low charge may be causing an uneven distribution of freon in the evap coil and the linear air flow may not mix the temperatures at all.

My thoughts may be a stretch, but I don't think it is heater core/water valve related in my case being that the two top vents are a noticeably different temperature. I won't have time to dig into my Sprinter to help to confirm/deny my theory until next week at the earliest so any thoughts are welcome. vic
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...805#post191805

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...575#post190575

I got to checking my A/C. It was low on charge. At 1500 rpm or so it was showing only about 20 PSI on the low side with about 85 F air over the coils. I had a part can of 134a which with immersing it in a hot water bath got me up to 35# on the low side. The top vents are now more equal in output temperature, but the passenger side is still slightly colder. (I know, a measured charge is the proper way to add freon.)

So I developed the APACT Aqua Puttana's Air Conditioning Test. I recommend NAFTA T1N owners occasionally check the temperature output of the top vents by just feeling for the relative temperature with your hand while the air conditioning is operating. If you begin to notice that the passenger side top vent is noticeably colder than the driver side it is an indication that you may be getting low on A/C refrigerant charge. This simple test may help an owner to catch an A/C problem before it fails completely. FWIW. vic
__________________
DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 08-06-2012 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:44 PM   #29
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

A watchout from Dennis of Lindenengineering.

Dennis is always worth listening to.

vic

Quote:
Originally Posted by lindenengineering View Post
Guys
I see some of the forum contributers are Sprinter possible wannabe owners in search of that "gem".

Please please! --Any of you doing a self pre-purchase inspection do take the time to lift the injector cover and inspect the injectors for--Yes the black death;that euphamism as its is of often called!

Now by itself its not a big deal but the results can get spendy to fix.

Take a customer this week who purchased an '05 TIN a fairly tidy models except for some rust!
It came in for a service, visual evidence suggested it had not had a decent service for some time. Poor starting was a complaint on the J/C -W/O.

Of course as a cursory we always lift the cover! Yes evidence of tarring and carbon deposit welling around several injectors----But the extent was minimal from what I have normally seen. BUT more investigation showed that the carbon had been cleaned off and TWO injector hold down bolts were sheered and simply put back into their holes with glue! The vehcile had obviously been run "as is" for a while due to the evidence of brown/black re-depositing

So what was holding two of the injectors in you may well ask!!! Carbon deposits! And the new buyer having secured a deal drove it back to Denver with the "carbon stiction" , holding them in place. AND
I could see why!
Our tools removed three with a huge amount of force and an oxy gun heating the stems, the last two defying even 15 tons of force on the injector body. Time to stop before really busting something up!

Solution--Off with it head!
That means busting up the valve cover to access the bolts, its means a new set of injectors and gaskets. To recover the head, (although we will fit an in house re-con unit) means the use of a spark erosion (EDM) machine at my local machine shop not only to remove the two remaining injectors but also to remove the broken injector hold down bolt tails.

So in short, do take a bit of time to inspect the area for salesman bodge ups to dispose of the vehicle by clever dress up.
Might save you some $$$$$.
Cheers Dennis
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.
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Old 03-02-2014, 12:57 PM   #30
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

A recent link that I found. It is not Sprinter specific, but it does have some general info/links for a couple DIY checks on a diesel engine.

Debunking old Mercedes "Myths"

http://benzbeat.blogspot.com/2011/12...des-myths.html

If you try the blow-by test with oil fill cap off then you should be aware that the timing chain runs right at the fill cap in the Sprinter in-line 5 cylinder engine. That is a spinning hazard and will also fling oil out of the open cap.

I didn't actually do a blow-by test, but I did verify that the bottom of an aluminum soda can will fit to cover the open cap area. Perhaps using that with a couple tightly stretched layers of paper towel will keep the mess down.

vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.
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