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Old 01-05-2009, 10:11 PM   #1
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Default Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Search: 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 check inspect deal buy advice

First a fitting quote from JD Caples before you read my tips.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdcaples View Post
While problems detailed in forum postings (and entire threads!) are real and quite unnerving, they are not necessarily representative of everyone's ownership experience.

If you like the van, buy it.

-Jon



****
An unabashed advertisement. If you find the style of this thread helpful I have some others.

Tips for New to Sprinter Owners
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23409

Stoopid Things condensed
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8285

Cheap Tricks condensed
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9255

Check Engine Light DTC MIL Codes List
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5369

Limp Home Mode comments
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7173

Trailer Wiring OEM Harness vs. Light Module
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7328

Tools - Quality, Special, Dodge, MB, Mercedes, Hose Clamp
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10485

20170727 Edit:Add your vehicle info to all your posts automatically!!!!!It will help you to get answers. Thank you.

The most direct method is probably in your "Details".
In the Blue bar above click "Quick Links".
Scroll down to the "Custom User Title" box.
Click in that box and type in at least your Sprinter MY (Model Year).
Scroll down to the "Save Changes" box. Click on that and you are done.
Whatever you enter will be displayed at the bottom of your member icon.

The other place is in your "Signature".
In the Blue bar above click "Quick Links".
Select "Edit Signature".
Scroll down to the text box which looks like what you use to add a post to the forum. Type in at least your Sprinter MY (Model Year).
Scroll down to "Preview Signature". If the preview looks like what you want, scroll down to "Save Signature", click on that and you're done.
Whatever you enter will be displayed at the bottom of every one of your posts.
(If signatures don't display go back to "Quick Links" and "Edit Options" to allow signature display.)


****
T1N's go up to and including 2006 model year except for some RV conversions which may have T1N running gear in later models. Before anyone that's looking to buy a T1N continues I recommend you read the Sprinter Wiki link created by Sikwan (in the blue bar above).

There is a danger in highlighting some of the problems associated with the Sprinter and directing people to the various threads discussing those problems. It is easy for it to appear that ALL Sprinters have problems. I'm very happy with my 2004 used Sprinter with 225,000 320,000+ miles. I have had very few problems with my Sprinter (knocking wood). There are many happy Sprinter owners that never post in forums. The good news is that these forums are invaluable for DIY, helping to resolve problems, and general information.

The following are some things I have learned from various forums about used Sprinters. These are in no particular order. Most engine comments refer to the diesel engine, not the less common gasoline variety. I would hope others will add posts to make this write up more helpful for anyone looking for a used T1N. Perhaps specific comments related to the various RV brands and installed conversion equipment would help?

Injector black death leakage. From what I gather the fuel injector hold down bolts get loose or the seals erode.... for whatever reason and the injector seals begin to leak. This allows combustion products to escape and build up. This is easily inspected by pulling the plastic cover that shields the injector assemblies to inspect for discoloration or black lava like deposits around the injectors (5 mm Allen head fasteners). Black lava indicates major failure. Pouring a bit of soapy water on the injector bases will show bubbles if it is in early stages. (Spritzing window cleaner won't work... don't ask.) This may be an expensive thing to repair. Dealerships will typically replace the head for broken hold down bolts (if they break). Doktor A has a more reasonable repair which can be performed without removing the head.

Link related to injector failure and inspection:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3326

****
2011/09/12 edit:
Injector seal leakage is not a reason to totally dismiss buying a Sprinter. If the mileage isn't too high just replacing the bad seal may be a good response. Given very high mileage you might consider replacing all injectors because a bad injector can lead to other more major problems. Injector/seal replacement is very possible DIY.

A recent thread in which Doktor A replies to indicate that "Black Death" can look very bad, but may actually just be one injector leaking.


Looking at buying, and is this the black death?
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17596


My experience changing injectors DIY. What happened to me is probably as bad as it gets. Others have changed seals with little problem.


Remove Pull Replace Install Change T1N Fuel Injector
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16068


*****



Glow plug failures.
The glow plugs themselves are not expensive, but they have a history of seizing into the head and making replacement a major repair.
***
2011/02/15 edit: I feel there is good news related to glow plug removal. Mine came out without any real problems. This thread has what I did for removal. YMMV.

My Experience Changing Glow Plugs
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...&postcount=141

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...&postcount=142

***
The Engine Control Unit (ECU) or ECM Engine Control Module is designed to monitor the glow plugs and related control circuit. It is not uncommon for the monitor circuit to show a false fault in the glow plugs. Glow plugs should never be repaired/changed based only upon the ECM fault information codes. There are tests which can be performed to check the glow plugs. Glow plugs may not be critical if you never use the diesel in very cold temperatures. It is reported that the glow plug fault indications are more reliable in the NCV3 models.
***
2011/02/15 edit: It is possible to modify the glow plug module and correct most failures by adding wiring and individual glow plug fuses. This helps to avoid an expensive parts replacement.
***

Link related to glow plugs:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=743

Having the ASSYST option to help with maintenance schedules is a plus. The ASSYST monitors mileage, oil condition, and other Sprinter functions to help determine what maintenance intervals are appropriate for your use. Not an essential option, but nice to have.

Link related to ASSYST:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1299

The Sprinter remote door locks can be troublesome.
Make certain they are all in working order. Sometimes the repair is an easy cleaning of the door contact units, but not always.

Turbo Resonator 2004 - 2006. Many people recommend that the heavy RV conversion Sprinters install a Riordan turbo resonator replacement. On heavily loaded vehicles there is a history of OEM plastic turbo resonator failures before the Q5 modified resonator. It is probably best if you have a Q5 version of the resonator. They come with a Q5 sticker that may still be on the resonator. A new plastic OEM resonator is around $50.00 for the part. A Riordan aluminum replacement is about $140.00 for the part. Installation is not a bad DIY given the correct tools.


Sprinter NAG1 transmission.
2010/10/19 edit:
The comments regarding the NAG1 transmission below may be a bit out of date in some respects, but I think still basically valid. My more recent ideas and comments regarding the NAG1 transmission can be found near the middle and end of this more recent post. It is my opinion only.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13215


The Sprinter NAG1 transmission seems to be sensitive to having proper fluid and proper level?? Try to verify that the proper Mercedes Benz (MB) approved transmission fluid is installed. From Dodge the approved fluid is Crossfire/Sprinter in a black plastic bottle. Even with OEM at this time there are 3 versions of fluid. Some recommend the MB spec #MB236.12, or the newer MB236.14 is even better. There are not many common brands of transmission fluid in the USA that meet the MB236.12 or MB236.14 specs for the NAG1 transmission. ATF+4 is not correct. The original Operator Manual is always the official reference, based upon that there is technically nothing wrong with using MB236.10 spec ATFIII fluid.

*******
Added 20161008:
I've since been convinced that whether MB236.10, MB236.12, or MB236.14 fluid is used any of them will cure a shudder problem that is related to old, spent fluid. The newer spec fluid may help with RSN, but in my mind that is even questionable eg. MB236.10 vs MB236.14 fluid. The MB236.14 fluid was developed for a newer/different transmission than the NAG1. MB236.14 fluid is backward compatible to the NAG1, not required. (Similar to MB229.5 engine oil and MB228.5 engine oil.)
*******

Even with proper fluid the NAG1 has a Rumble Strip Noise (RSN) quirk which is a light chattering vibration under low loads. I believe the general consensus is that RSN is an annoyance, not a mechanical problem as such. A heavy shudder around 2000 RPM under load probably indicates that the transmission fluid may be in use beyond the required change interval. The heavy shudder is cause for concern. Doktor A has an inexpensive cure for RSN.

Check the metal transmission lines for rusting. My 2004 lines were beginning to rust near the radiator. I smeared grease on mine to help halt the rusting. Others have reported similar rust on older Sprinters.

Some links related to the NAG1 transmission are here:

Rumble Strip Noise Transmission Drive Train Shudder

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5027

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2557
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2476

Check that the heater fan works on all speeds.
The heater resistor commonly fails. The indication of failure is that only high speed will work on the fan. Not a big deal, but worth checking. The heater resistor is about $40.00. Installation is a DIY project. No special tools required.

"If the fan works in all speeds [and flow is still low], it is not the resistor pack.
Instead, most people dont know there is a cabin air filter installed under the hood that never gets changed and causes a lot of air restriction." credit to Skydiver007

Related link here:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2646

Driveshafts and universals. Make certain that a mechanic checks the driveshafts and universal joints for problems. The driveshaft and universals are only sold as a complete assembly by the dealers. Unlike most USA made vans this is a fairly expensive repair. There is at least one company that retrofits Sprinter drive shafts and sells them on a core return basis. After that the universal joints can be changed out individually. This is not an endorsement of that repair route. I'm just pointing out that it's an option to buying a new driveshaft assembly.
Added: Dorman offers a complete 3 piece assembly. Approx. $650.00 for 118 or 140, more for 158 WB.

Fuel line clips. Inspect the fuel line clips are still holding the fuel lines in place. The clip failure is not an expensive repair, but worth checking. If the plastic lines are flopping free they can wear through and begin leaking. I repaired mine by using black cable ties to secure the plastic lines back up into the remnants of the broken clips.

Please feel free to add posts and information. I hope this helps to start a flow of information. vic
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2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 01-10-2009, 01:24 PM   #2
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

A couple threads with lots of good info for anyone looking to buy a used Sprinter.

Really Need Your Advise
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5082


what to look for in buying a used pleasure -way
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=41156
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 01-20-2009, 12:18 PM   #3
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Wire Chafing

This probably applies more after a Sprinter purchase, but I figured it's worth adding.

There has been some history of wire bundles chafing through and causing problems with grounds, erratic operation, and trouble codes. The chafed wires do not necessarily blow fuses.

Related link
Complete power loss
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3075

As I recall I found some areas I felt needed attention around the battery tray and over on the air filter side. Another area that has been posted by others is around the injector cover area.

My solution was to add cable ties for better support, or cut some short pieces of fuel hose or heater hose, slit them down and install them over the wire bundle to add chafe protection.

Be careful that you don't create new problems when you're doing this. I tracked a wire down in the area of my injector cover that I thought was a potential problem. After pulling it out enough I found I had disturbed a perfectly good installation that had a plastic shoe protecting it. I had one heck of time getting it back together properly. Hope this helps. vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 04-18-2010 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 01-24-2009, 06:32 PM   #4
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

A recent link related to Driveshafts and Universals mentioned previously.
universal joints
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5273
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 02-13-2009, 02:16 PM   #5
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Another recent discussion about what to look for.

Almost ready, need advice
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5447
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 07-07-2009, 01:29 PM   #6
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

For 2002- 2003 Sprinters, I would suggest an inspection of the EGR valve, which usually needs to be replaced every 70 thousand miles. A failing EGR valve will drip oil and will distribute a black oily film over the driver side of the engine (intake manifold, oil filter cap, etc.). The part is not too expensive by MB standards ($ 600.) and very easy to replace.
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:42 PM   #7
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Quote:
Originally Posted by indigoE View Post
A failing EGR valve will drip oil and will distribute a black oily film over the driver side of the engine (intake manifold, oil filter cap, etc.). The part is not too expensive by MB standards ($ 600.) and very easy to replace.

EGR dripping sooty oil is normal and not an indication of imminant failure.
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:52 AM   #8
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

Anyone contemplating a Sprinter might find Doktor A's comments in this post encouraging.

My highest odometer client has just topped 600k miles...
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...&postcount=133
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 09-03-2009, 08:24 PM   #9
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

So....how many miles do you have on yours?

This is a post by teamtexas that may interest potential owners.


So....how many miles do you have on yours?
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7475

AP/vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

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Old 09-12-2009, 06:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: Inspection tips for buying a used Sprinter T1N

A bit more explanation about u-joints.

Text:
"To the best of my knowledge the u-joint condition inspection should be the same as any other common u-joints. The seals should look good, no grease leaking out or spatter, bearings are free/not sloppy, no heavy clunks from the drive train when shifted from forward to reverse and back again. All standard things your mechanic will check (I presume).

The problem, and the reason I mentioned it in the Inspection Tips, is that it is not a cheap thing to repair with OEM parts. As a DIY guy if I found a prospective used Sprinter with bad u-joints, based upon "normal" experience I wouldn't think of it as a costly repair. I think it's important to know that it is a big ticket repair and therefore a bigger bargaining chip for the buyer.

That said, the T1N drive shafts seem to go many miles before problems. AP/vic"

The original thread is here (go to post #9):
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7594

Hope this does some good. AP/vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >326,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >172,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 07-30-2011 at 10:58 PM.
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