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Old 01-04-2013, 01:07 AM   #1
416cdi
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Default Alternator 416cdi T1N

Gday fellas,
I have a problem that I would appreciate your assistance with please.
I have to get my alternator either repaired or replaced (with either a new or 2nd hand one).
Has anyone had to do this in their van?
Also how do I find the exact part number for the alternator so if I order one I dont order the wrong alternator?
My van is currently parked at home and I only have enough charge in my battery to drive to the mechanic to get it fixed.
What to do?
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:15 AM   #2
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

Colorado Al recommended I buy this item from the US off Amazon online

Bosch AL0798N New Alternator
List Price: $335.88
Price: $182.58 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. Details
You Save: $153.30 (46%)
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File Type: jpg 51chKgZvrnL._AA300_.jpg (23.0 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg 51dwY8FgXkL._AA300_.jpg (25.1 KB, 89 views)
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:29 AM   #3
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

416.
Before you rush of and spend your money lets work out if your alternator is faulty. The first thing to do is to buy a battery charger and fully charge your battery. The next thing is get a multimeter and measure the voltage at the back of the alternator with the motor running. If the voltage at the alternator terminal is 14.2 you have a bad crimp on the cable between the alternator and the battery. Eric.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:57 AM   #4
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Experience View Post
416.
Before you rush of and spend your money lets work out if your alternator is faulty. The first thing to do is to buy a battery charger and fully charge your battery. The next thing is get a multimeter and measure the voltage at the back of the alternator with the motor running. If the voltage at the alternator terminal is 14.2 you have a bad crimp on the cable between the alternator and the battery. Eric.
OK Eric, point taken and appreciated.
I have no idea what kind of battery charger to buy and how much they are, or where to get them from.
Jaycar? Supacheap? Dick Smith?
I should probably ask a sparkie/auto electrician.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:16 PM   #5
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

If the alternator puts out the correct voltage, and the battery can take a charge from another battery charger, I'm pretty sure you can check the connections with a cheapo multimeter.

If you put the -ve probe and the +ve probe either side of a connection and measure voltage when it's running, a dodgy connection will show up as a voltage drop. That might assist in finding the culprit if one exists. I think. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong to save your multimeter. So in theory, if you can put one probe on the batt +ve and one on the alternator + ve output, you can do the circuit in one go. If you get a reading > 0.5 volts, that's your issue. Then break the circuit into chunks and see which connection is the problem and redo it. A voltage drop will reduce the charging voltage, and if its low enough, won't fully charge the battery. I think
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:21 PM   #6
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

Another ultra low tech test is to feel how hot the battery terminals are getting. If one is hot then that is a bad connection at the battery. This test wont work at the alternator end though since its always hot when at operating temp.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:04 AM   #7
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkie View Post
If the alternator puts out the correct voltage, and the battery can take a charge from another battery charger, I'm pretty sure you can check the connections with a cheapo multimeter.

If you put the -ve probe and the +ve probe either side of a connection and measure voltage when it's running, a dodgy connection will show up as a voltage drop. That might assist in finding the culprit if one exists. I think. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong to save your multimeter. So in theory, if you can put one probe on the batt +ve and one on the alternator + ve output, you can do the circuit in one go. If you get a reading > 0.5 volts, that's your issue. Then break the circuit into chunks and see which connection is the problem and redo it. A voltage drop will reduce the charging voltage, and if its low enough, won't fully charge the battery. I think
WOW thanks sparkie now its getting technical
Wouldnt the leads of the multimeter need to be very long to reach both the alternator and the battery? Sounds like a two man job.
Gees, i am way out of my comfort zone here... Off to Jaycar I go...
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:52 AM   #8
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

Quote:
Originally Posted by 416cdi View Post
WOW thanks sparkie now its getting technical
Wouldnt the leads of the multimeter need to be very long to reach both the alternator and the battery? Sounds like a two man job.
Gees, i am way out of my comfort zone here... Off to Jaycar I go...
You can extend one of the probes with a bit of cable as far as I know. If the alternator reads not much you may get your answer sooner and cable length won't be an issue. It's probably worth $20-30 for a meter for a look. If it is the alternator, the meter will come in handy.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:20 AM   #9
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

Heres a photo of my first warning sign, the battery warning light... As soon as I saw this I went to the closest auto electrician right away to see what the problem was and he told me if I could leave the van with him for the day he could fix the problem for $550. No further explanation. I felt like I was getting shafted so I declined.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:48 AM   #10
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Default Re: Alternator 416cdi T1N

Since the battery was slowly running out of charge I thought I had better get myself one of those jump starter battery packs. So I could start again anytime until I decided what to do and who was going to do it.
Went to Bunnings and all they had was this 900A pack, no others. In the instructions it said suitable for petrol engines. So I phoned the distributor and asked why this was not suitable for my van and he told me I needed the 2000A pack which was about $550. (what a coincidence, two people telling me to pay $550. First the dodgy auto electrician, now this guy!). I looked at my battery in the engine bay and it is 770Cold Cranking Amps I decided to take my chances and bought this 900A pack for about $70. Its been working well so far.
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