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Old 06-28-2018, 07:47 PM   #71
nemu
 
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Default Re: NCV3 Replace Front Brakes

Hi All

I have been using this fantastic write up to change my front discs and pads so thank you all for your contibutions , though as I have a dual rear wheel 518 Sprinter my front wheel had a hub flange bolted on top of the disc with 6x 21mm bolts anyone know what these need to be torqued up to please (preferably in NM please) ?

do I use a thread lock on them as well ?
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:04 PM   #72
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Default Re: NCV3 Replace Front Brakes

I could be answering my own question here

found following

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/s...e-maintenance/

The flange bolts have a torque specification of 133 ft/lbs for first-generation and 144 ft/lbs for second-generation Sprinters.


Front Brakes


The front calipers on both models are very similar. The caliper bracket bolt has a torque specification of 125 ft/lbs and 20 ft/lbs for the caliper guide bolts on first-generation vehicles. For second-generation vehicles, there are two specifications for M10 and M8 bolts. M10 bolts should be tightened to 24 ft/lbs. M8 bolts need to be tightened to 48 ft/lbs.


and conversion ft/lb x 1.3556 = Nm

interestingly there could be a difference with the caliper bracket bolt torque

Piper1 shows the caliper bracket bolt in thread 14 as 60 ft/lbs plus 40 degrees
yet in the info I found above it seems to suggest 125 ft/lbs

any ideas ?
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Old 11-25-2018, 04:31 AM   #73
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Default Re: NCV3 Replace Front Brakes

Thanks for the write-up, Piper!

I just finished doing the fronts tonight, and will work on the backs tomorrow with daylight.

FYI, the bolt holding the rotor to the hub is a T30.

Only thing that went awry was that, even with some PB Blaster, heat and slow pressure, one of the brake bleeder screws (11mm) sheared off. At 62k and 5 years. Anyone know the best way to remove whatís left? I have a bolt extractor kit, but this seemed to be so soft, Iím not sure it would work. At least for now itís not leaking, but that means I probably wonít bleed the fronts for fear of having old fluid in one side and new in the other.

Hopefully the rears loosen nicely and this is the only bad screw, though Iím tempted to replace all four at this point.

Of course, tomorrow is Sunday, and this is my only driver....

Greg


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Old 11-25-2018, 05:14 AM   #74
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Default Re: NCV3 Replace Front Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSWatson View Post
Only thing that went awry was that, even with some PB Blaster, heat and slow pressure, one of the brake bleeder screws (11mm) sheared off.
That sucks. Keep marinating it with PB Blaster and pick what you think is the best method.

Good luck.


https://m.youtube.com/results?search...leeder+valvems
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Old 05-09-2019, 02:20 AM   #75
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Default Re: NCV3 Replace Front Brakes

This past week I spent two days under the front end of my 3500 Sprinter based motorhome banging mercilessly on rotors that were completely unwilling to budge initially. On the passenger side it was 2 hrs of banging with a two pound hammer to get movement of the rotor and eventually off the hub. There was a fair amount of corrosion inside the "hat" for the rotor which effectively stopped it from sliding off the hub. I live in the great white north where salt prevails, and although it doesn't get many miles in winter, it does see some salt! And it sits between trips... I was really praying that the drivers side would be less troublesome. No dice. It was worse. After Ĺhr with nothing to show for my efforts, I drove over to the MB dealer to ask the techs about a secret sauce for this job. They commiserated with me, saying it was a 3 hr book hr job that was rarely done in that time! Then they gave me the secret. Use a angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade. Cut the rotor down and across the top of the body toward the face being careful not to cut into the hub itself! You can't entirely cut it at the angle where the rotor meets the hat, and where the face meets the opening for the hub seat, but once you've got the majority cut, use a cold steel chisel and whack it, and part the two sides of the cut. It'll crack the rotor, and voila, you can now get some movement on the rotor. After 15 min cutting it took 5 minutes to remove the rotor from the head. I took the guys donuts and coffee the next day! Along with my heartfelt thanks for saving me tendonitis of the forearm and wrist.
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