Sprinter-Forum    
 

Go Back   Sprinter-Forum > NCV3 Sprinters > NCV3 Write-Ups

NCV3 Write-Ups Help other NCV3 owners by posting your experience working on your Sprinter.


 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-14-2018, 04:50 PM   #31
Dbiker
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 3
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: Removing the electric step

Quote:
Originally Posted by sprint-err View Post
I have also removed my OEM electric step and was presented with the buzzers and dash warnings.

I tried the 2 different jumpers suggested by ptheland and was not happy with either one (you either have to put up with the sliding door open buzzer or the dash lights and beeping...).

Next I unplugged my PSM. This also does not yield a complete result. The sliding door buzzer and the dash beeping are gone, but there is still a red warning about the step on the dash when you first turn on the van (image attached). But there is no beeping of any kind, and the red warning goes away after you start up the van and get on the road. I'm sticking with this "fix" for the time being as it is the least annoying.

I think the only way to shut this whole thing down may be to take it to the dealer to have the step deleted from the van's computer. Or maybe try to wire up ptheland's circuit with the relays to simulate the step.

Anyone have any other bright ideas?

BTW, the PSM is easy to unplug, once you pull it out of the rail that is holding it:

1. Pull the driver's seat all the way forward and lift the foam cover under there. Locate the PSM under the driver's seat. It's a black box slightly larger than a pack of cards and is on the first raised rail all the way to the left of the rail.

2. There are 2 tabs on either side of the PSM that you have to push away from you (if you are facing the back of the driver's seat). These are best released with a small screwdriver as the space is tight for getting your fingers in there.

3. Simultaneously push the 2 tabs and pull up on the PSM and it should pull straight up and out.

4. You can now more easily unplug it by pushing the locking tabs on the 2 connectors and pulling the connectors out.
Hello,

Did removing the PSM have any negative effect on other functions of the van? I'm concerned that removing it would disrupt other systems within the van.

Thanks,
D
Dbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2018, 07:03 PM   #32
sprint-err
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Northern California, USA
Posts: 10
Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Default Re: Removing the electric step

Hi Dbiker,

No, there were no effects on my van's other systems. As I understand it, the PSM is intended to be used by third party body builders and RV conversion places when they're adding functionality to the van. The factory installed electric step is one of the few items that is controlled by the PSM from the factory. So if your van isn't a conversion, unplugging the PSM shouldn't affect anything. And if you do notice something not working, the PSM is very easy to plug back in and you'll get all of the functionality restored if it was being controlled from the PSM.

Hope that helps!
sprint-err is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to sprint-err For This Useful Post:
Klowe74 (11-29-2018)
Old 01-15-2019, 12:10 AM   #33
Samd83
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: Removing the electric step

Any idea where to buy parts for these steps? I want to replace the motor
Samd83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2019, 09:02 PM   #34
Darcy Quapp
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: Removing the electric step

Ok so I removed my step .... pulled the module under the seat and jumpered the blue and brown wires . All good except for the red warning on the dash....
Darcy Quapp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2019, 11:04 PM   #35
turbo911
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: portland
Posts: 75
Thanks: 9
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Default Re: Removing the electric step

any of you guys not using your psm anymore i would like to get one
turbo911 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 04:39 AM   #36
RPacher1
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Union City, Ca
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: Removing the electric step

Hi all and thanks for the wealth of info that available here, first post.

I have a hi-top 144 passenger 4X4 with the electric step that I would like to remove. I also have the roof-top factory AC and fuel fired booster heater. I fear these may integrate with the PSM thus I'm fearful of unplugging it to quiet down the noise and lights. Any advise?
RPacher1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2020, 10:08 PM   #37
tcspence
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Re: Removing the electric step

I have removed my sliding door electric step to replace my defective def heater located above it. While I had it removed I took the step apart and cleaned it up, lubricated and greased some areas. I was having intermittent operation at times when the step didn't report it was retracted and buzzed. Slamming the door would stop the Buzzing.

I metered out the wiring so I could power it up and cycle it on my bench to be sure the magnetic switches are adjusted properly. Thank you (ptheland) for your drawing. I urge everyone to stop here until you have a complete understanding before jumping connections. It is a simple operation but a little more complicated than just shorting wires to disable.

The (ptheland) diagram showed the (RedWire) is Ground and that is maybe correct. More importantly the (RedWIRE) is common to all the sensors. (BlueWire) is (EXTENDED), (VioletWire) is (RETRACTED), (GreenWire) is (PINCH)as (ptheland) described.

As everyone expects if the step ran into a pinch hazard, the (RedWire) is shorted to the (GreenWire). In a normal state the (GreenWire) is not connected to anything and like floats in the air. The (ptheland) diagram shows a 510 ohm across the (RedWire) and (GreenWire) continuously. I would expect that too as it would provide a supervisory signal. In my step however I measure an open circuit unpinched.

The pinch sensor reports a pinch by shorting the (RedWire) with the (GreenWire). The opposite occurs with the position sensors. They report completely in or out by opening one connection.

Remembering the (RedWIRE) is common to all the sensors. This is important. The (BlueWIRE) and (VioletWIRE) are both connected to the (RedWIRE) when the step is in neither state. Meaning not (EXTENDED) or (RETRACTED). In other words if your step is neither in or out like when changing positions or just stuck, the (RedWIRE) is shorted to both the (BLUE AND VIOLET WIRE).

When the step is physically stopped and completely retracted, the (RedWIRE) remains shorted to the (VioletWIRE) but is opened and no longer connected to the (BlueWIRE).

Likewise if the step is stopped and completely extended, the (RedWIRE) remains shorted to (BlueWire) but is opened and no longer connected to the (VioletWire).

Extended reports a fully extended step by opening the connection between the (RedWire) and (VioletWire). Retracted reports a fully retracted step by opening the connection between the (RedWire) and (BlueWire). Both closed or both open means unhappy buzzer sounds or indicator light

Based on the sensors input to the parametric module it puts a negative 12vdc on the (BlackWire) and a positive 12vdc on the (WhiteWire) to drive the motor to retract the step. Likewise it flips and puts a positive 12vdc on the (BlackWire) and a negative 12vdc on the (WhiteWire) to drive the motor to extend the step. Once extended or retracted the module removes the voltage so there no power present on the (Black or White Wire). The motor in the step does not stop itself. There is no electronics in the step. The motor will run as long as power is present on the (Black and White Wire). Switching polarity drives in or out. Applying continuous power will hopefully blow a fuse before being allowed to burn the motor out.

Because power is not present when the step is fully in or out, one latching relay and possibly 4 diode’s would be required to fake the module out if you wish to remove the step without a program change. About $15 on ebay. I can provide you a drawing if interested.

This FORUM has been a great help to me and I wanted to give back something. Hope this helps.
tcspence is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2020, 07:36 AM   #38
ptheland
2013 144" low top Passgr
 
ptheland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,442
Thanks: 1,560
Thanked 930 Times in 553 Posts
Default Re: Removing the electric step

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcspence View Post
Because power is not present when the step is fully in or out, one latching relay and possibly 4 diode’s would be required to fake the module out if you wish to remove the step without a program change. About $15 on ebay. I can provide you a drawing if interested.
I'd be interested in seeing the diagram. I still haven't tried my 3 relay solution. I have pretty much tuned out the 2 minutes of beeping when the door is open. Pulling the two fuses I mentioned above reduced the volume significantly and that was good enough for me.
__________________
--Peter

2013 144" wheelbase, low roof passenger, with wheelchair lift in side door (soon operational, but not yet cosmetic)
ptheland is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT. The time now is 04:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.