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#1 |
Join Date: Jan 2015
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Is there a write-up anywhere about this?
It seems pretty hidden behind the metal protective casing, and not really sure what needs to come off, or doesn't, to get to the actual heater.... I have two big air hoses on opposite sides, exhaust, fuel, wiring, etc, but not quite sure what can remain attached (if anything). Is there a fuel-shutoff valve somewhere? I assume the two end-caps of the metal case need to come off first, but only the big air hose at the front-end seems to have a clamp on it. The orange one to the back (presumably the hot air), doesn't so not sure if it passes through the metal box....? I have attached some photos, just in case something is different with ours, but it seems to be "stock" based on photos I have seen. Any pointers where I can read some more about getting the heater out would be great. Mark |
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#2 |
T1N Westfalia
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Maybe no detailed write-ups, but folks have written about removing. Some tips:
Quote: I assume the two end-caps of the metal case need to come off first, but only the big air hose at the front-end seems to have a clamp on it. The orange one to the back (presumably the hot air), doesn't so not sure if it passes through the metal box....? End quote. End caps are NOT removed--metal box is removed as one piece. Remove air hose in front with clamp. Other air hose goes through box and is attached to heater on inside, so detach air hose on other end--from outside of van. 1. The metal box remains intact as one piece. Do not disassemble. Instead, there are 6? bolts at the top and backside? of the box which hold it in place. Unbolt those bolts to remove.box. 2. Before removing box, need to Detach electric wires screwed to box/held on by a bracket--you are just detaching the wires from being held onto the metal box so when you drop the metal.box, you don't put weight on those wires and also to take metal box out. Disconnect the wiring harness at corner of the metal box. (Believe you unscrewed the outer collar then pulled apart.) Disconnect air ducts (unscrew/loosen dryer hose clamps; one can be detached near box and the other duct can be detached at end going inside the Westy--so when you remove box, one air duct will still.be attached inside the box) Disconnect fuel line (no fuel shut off so diesel will drip). Try using a binder clip on rubber hose The funny U-shaped tube is for air into the combustion chamber. Has a little hole at bottom of the U-tube. (Someone posted about it.) Disconnect exhaust pipe 3. Drop the metal box. The Espar heater sits inside the metal box and is not mounted to the Sprinter body--so when remove metal box, heater is removed as well. 4. Wear eye protection--lots of dirt, etc. Safely raising Westy for additional clearance is handy unless really skinny. A small box to hold metal box in place when unbolted is nice--less arm strain. 5. From old thread https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...emoving+heater It looks like AFTER removing metal box and heater, you may have to unscrew an end piece a bit to pry heater out of the box. Been awhile. Last edited by OldWest; 08-01-2017 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Add info |
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#3 |
T1N Westfalia
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,780
Thanks: 163
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1. Photos
As you take nice photos and can put them on this subforum, maybe take photos of what you do and share. Thanks. 2. DIY or Mail for Service Maintenance can be DIY (supposedly very easy) but several folks have sent to Greg at lubricationspecialist for a flat fee to clean and replace any parts (parts extra).. He has the EDITH software to diagnose any issues. Beware that our Westy has a unique wiring harness spliced in and a unique circuit computer board. Also, OneManVan determined there are at least two different versions of the heater used during the production in our Westies. 3. Problems There are a million posts on this heater so it'll take forever to go through them all. 4. Maintenance You'll want the Espar Manual--downloadable in several places. Want to replace the smaller-than-thimble size atomizer screen. Want to clean combustion chamber. |
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#4 |
T1N Westfalia
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,780
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Read this one for info on atomizer screen and to get an endorsement of DIY by PNWSquid. But, if you have more than maintenance issues, may need diagnostic computer help (after going through the Espar Manual's 5000 troubleshooting items).
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=55157 More info: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=54809 https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=49074 Manuals: http://sprinterwestfalia.com/category/manuals/ Last edited by OldWest; 08-01-2017 at 10:02 PM. Reason: Add info |
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#5 |
Road trip!
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bainbridge Island, Washington, USA
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I'll add that when I did mine, I undid the mounting bolts first, then lowered the box a bit so that I could get to the fastener for the wiring bundle.
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2005 Dodge Sprinter Westfalia by Airstream #63 in Jasper Blue |
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#6 |
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 32
Thanks: 0
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When I spoke to him a year ago Greg, at Lubrication Specialities was, most emphatically, unwilling to do any service work. He'd only sell parts. Not very professional or responsive.
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#7 |
T1N Westfalia
Join Date: Jul 2009
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That's too bad.
He's a one man shop and worked with Sportsmobile. Years ago, I found him on the Sportsmobile forum and he agreed to extend his flat rate service special to us Westies as well as the Sportsmobiles. I sent him my Espar and he cleaned and repaired it. He also made and sold a special wiring harness adapter to fit our modified Espar (all sold out) so the computer controllers could hook up (I had him splice a permanent adapter to my wiring harness). Guess he's too busy and it's back to DIY or other service folks like ThermoKing. |
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#8 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 164
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Last year a Westy owner stopped by there, it was a residence and I think my friend received the same response as Billhpeloton received.
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#9 |
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 124
Thanks: 55
Thanked 32 Times in 23 Posts
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The hardest part about servicing the Espar is getting it off of the vehicle and removing it from it's metal casing designed for external use.
Once on the bench, cleaning and replacing any necessary parts (always replace the atomizer screen) is a simple task. Most issues that come up and have branded Espar's as unreliable are due to lack of regular maintenance and a poorly designed intake and exhaust system that was used specifically for our application. |
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#10 |
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 156
Thanks: 60
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I have used Greg in the past. He was confusing and cranky, but he did solve the issues with both my Espars. It would be nice to find another option for Westy owners. I believe I came across another company on the west coast who fixes Espars, but can't find the info now. If anyone knows, please post it.
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