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Old 03-24-2018, 04:47 PM   #931
hein
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

No problems so far. I do have the Sterling wired to a SPDT center off switch so it can be run in auto or ignition modes and also disabled manually. I did purchase the remote so I can monitor chassis and house voltages. This really show's the capability of the DC-to-DC capability which allows the two systems to operate at different voltages while also drawing power from the alternator. But does not show current flow so I am considering adding an inductive current meter.

In this case, connecting directly to the alternator (with internal regulator) is functionally the same as connecting to battery. (big cable connects them already). Benefit is that it avoids placing the additional load on the (notorious) Y-cable.

Not sure why Sterling advises against the alternator connection. Might be a requirement that applies to alternators with external regulators.
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:16 PM   #932
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

We are happy being busy at home these days so don't get out on the road as much. But still fun to enjoy some Earthday vanlife in the driveway. Hopeful that we will be able put on some miles this summer! Van is always ready to roll.

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Old 05-07-2018, 07:03 AM   #933
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Had a bit of time and enthusiasm today for a couple updates to our van. The entire kitchen cabinet can be unbolted and removed leaving the guts of the electrical system fully exposed should that ever be necessary for major service like replacing the inverter. (knocking on wood) There would some plumbing to unhook and the kitchen 120V supply and microwave unplugged from an outlet behind it. All the 12v components in the kitchen cabinet are fed by a single larger +/- cable coming from the main DC panel so that would be the only 12v cable to disconnect. At first, I only had a couple of small 12v kitchen loads; drinking water pump and electrical cabinet fan thermostat, so each had a smaller inline fuse connected to the main 12V supply. Later, I added a 12v to 9V converter wired to a plug for a dehumidifier and a hot water purge system. Then today, I wired up some toe kick LED lighting. The number of inline fuses had grown and the wiring to connect them had evolved into somewhat of a bird's nest. Some tiding up with a DC sub panel was the project.

Before:


After with new BlueSea fuse block and reorganized wiring:


Toe kick lighting. It's on a dimmer switch and I have plans to turn them on with a relay triggerd by the dome/entry lights and/or a switch on the galley cabinet somewhere.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:33 PM   #934
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Quote:
Originally Posted by hein View Post
Had a bit of time and enthusiasm today for a couple updates to our van. The entire kitchen cabinet can be unbolted and removed leaving the guts of the electrical system fully exposed should that ever be necessary for major service like replacing the inverter. (knocking on wood) There would some plumbing to unhook and the kitchen 120V supply and microwave unplugged from an outlet behind it. All the 12v components in the kitchen cabinet are fed by a single larger +/- cable coming from the main DC panel so that would be the only 12v cable to disconnect. At first, I only had a couple of small 12v kitchen loads; drinking water pump and electrical cabinet fan thermostat, so each had a smaller inline fuse connected to the main 12V supply. Later, I added a 12v to 9V converter wired to a plug for a dehumidifier and a hot water purge system. Then today, I wired up some toe kick LED lighting. The number of inline fuses had grown and the wiring to connect them had evolved into somewhat of a bird's nest. Some tiding up with a DC sub panel was the project.

Before:


After with new BlueSea fuse block and reorganized wiring:


Toe kick lighting. It's on a dimmer switch and I have plans to turn them on with a relay triggerd by the dome/entry lights and/or a switch on the galley cabinet somewhere.
Looking good, never ending fun.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:14 PM   #935
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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Later, I added a 12v to 9V converter wired to a plug for a dehumidifier
Simplify some more with a 12 volt power cord for the EVA-DRY EDV-1100 No need for 12v to 9v converter for the dehumidifier.

https://www.eva-dry.com/edv-12v-power-cord
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:46 AM   #936
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

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Tidied up the ECU relocate. The OEM tray is attached to the metal (white) cross piece along the top with the original mtg hole and a zip tie. The bottom is secured to the fender liner in two places. I hope the Mercedes engineers lurking here will approve; ha ha. I'm moving the washer tank to the other fender and found one that I think will fit nicely. Hope so anyway.



Follow up Note: This is not the final mounting for the ECU. Later on, I fabricated a steel mounting bracket that is much more secure and puts the ECU in a better position. -with no zip ties.

I would very much appreciate a photo of your final mounting for the ECU. I am putting in a battery tray from Adventure Wagon in Tualatin, Oregon and relocating that ECU is driving me nuts! I have the capability of making a bracket but WHERE do you put the darn thing.
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Old 06-09-2018, 05:02 PM   #937
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

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I would very much appreciate a photo of your final mounting for the ECU. I am putting in a battery tray from Adventure Wagon in Tualatin, Oregon and relocating that ECU is driving me nuts! I have the capability of making a bracket but WHERE do you put the darn thing.
We recommend our under-vehicle battery box so you won't have face the scary prospect of relocating the ECU (Sprinter brain).

Under the hood is not the ideal location for batteries due to the heat. Our location is closer to the OEM chassis electrical and the cargo area where the loads and charging sources will be. This reduces cost (cable lengths) and installation effort.

Placing the battery weight low below the CG improves the stability of the vehicle rather than reducing it. Our battery box fully protects the batteries and is very popular with our professional up-fitter partners.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Under-Vehic...wAAOSwepZXRohe

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan.com
54l 49O 5O98
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:02 PM   #938
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Laying out an under-passenger-seat air system. We have the Glide-Rite air suspension system and was never really happy with their under-vehicle air system for it. So removed that and will relocate the tank to another spot under the van. Then the new 100% duty cycle compressor, moisture separator/filter/regulator and Irontron Mini hose reel are going under the seat as shown. There will be another dedicated filter/moisture trap ahead of the airbags and ride-height control valve. Some plumbing to do and need to source a smaller amp for our sub-woofer. The existing amp was under the seat already. I could make it work but accessing the controls is a problem.



To mount the hose reel, I removed the bracket that allowed it to swing and also one of the side covers. Then designed and CNC'd a new polycarbonate cover plate to allow for a solid (non-swing) mounting. Can make more of the plates (or formed AL bracket) if someone else wants to implement this on their van. Contact me via DIYvan.com

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Old 08-12-2018, 05:51 AM   #939
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Made some progress on the under-seat-air-system. Still need to get the compressor screwed down and the wiring done. There will be a switch to allow the system to be powered from house or chassis battery, a relay with 80 psi tank pressure switch to control the compressor and two sensors to monitor tank pressure and airbag pressure.

I finished modifying the reel casing and got that sturdily mounted. Made some simple brackets for the dryer/filter which is connected to to compressor outlet. Then a T fitting with the line to the air tank on one leg and the hose reel via a shutoff valve on the other.

Got the existing subwoofer amp relocated in such a manner that I can still fiddle with the controls if needed. Haven't touched them for 4 years so don't anticipate needing adjust anything anyway.

View from top showing everything in place.


View from access panel. Need a quick-coupler for my air hose. I'll hold a cup under the dryer when I need to purge it.


Actually worked on two vans today.

Took some time to put Thinsulate(TM) AU-4002-5 under the new Okoume plywood floor in our Transit. See this post on Transit Forum.


Our paid summer CAD intern designed and CNC'd the floor for the Transit. I sealed and finished it with textured porch paint.
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Last edited by hein; 08-12-2018 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 09-16-2018, 03:54 AM   #940
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Busy summer with daughter's wedding, moving into a new warehouse facility and also making time for play and van projects. -Whew!

Our lonely Sprinter has been on jack stands while I design and install a new air system for the rear suspension. Today I installed the air tank so the end is in sight. Just need to re-install the ride height valve and plumb the bags. I ordered a number of steel tanks but the ports were poorly threaded and I was worried about pin holes in the welds. Finally decided on a 5 gallon spun aluminum tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0743MLCS8

First photo is of tank installed after a long afternoon crawling under the van getting metal fillings in my hair and clothes.


Port layout: compressor supply is hose on the left; pressure switch and gauge sensor on top; drain on bottom; regulator for suspension on right. The pressure relief valve is up at the at pump. Battery boxes are in foreground and background.

Earlier photo of tank looking up from side. Doesn't show well here but the tank has more clearance than the battery boxes and fuel tank.


Tank mounts bolted to frame.


Below. Support loops installed. This mounting system came with the tank and worked out great for the spacing of the Sprinter crossmembers. But I am not sure they were designed for suspending the tank so not 100% confident they will hold up. I will add some webbing straps to serve as secondary restraints.

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