Sprinter-Forum    
 

Go Back   Sprinter-Forum > Sprinter-Based RV's & Conversions > Sprinter RV's & Conversions Talk

Sprinter RV's & Conversions Talk Common features found in Sprinter RV's and Conversions.


 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-12-2012, 01:51 AM   #1
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB
 
GeorgeRa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,379
Thanks: 1,222
Thanked 2,439 Times in 1,576 Posts
Default Layout plan.

I am beginning to get some details about our future RV. The design is very similar to our previous VW Westfalias except the added head. Most likely I will use 80/20 with 1/4" pre-refinished plywood for construction. Any critique would be very welcome. The base for my drawings is wood floor published by Dave. Two more picture.

Thank you,

George.
GeorgeRa is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to GeorgeRa For This Useful Post:
LOTUS (05-15-2013)
Old 07-12-2012, 01:53 AM   #2
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB
 
GeorgeRa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,379
Thanks: 1,222
Thanked 2,439 Times in 1,576 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

Last 2 pictures.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Short wood floor 144 2d only other cabinet.JPG (46.5 KB, 6627 views)
File Type: jpg Short wood floor 144 2d only end result.JPG (56.6 KB, 5879 views)
GeorgeRa is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to GeorgeRa For This Useful Post:
Sonofleemarvin (09-21-2016)
Old 07-12-2012, 03:39 AM   #3
OldWest
T1N Westfalia
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,072
Thanks: 212
Thanked 609 Times in 462 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

Move toilet compartment behind driver seat. Shorter sink cabinet closer to rear passengers--more open feeling.

Or, move toilet compartment behind driver seat, add full height cabinet with fridge, etc where toilet comoartment used to be. Add short sink cabinet behind front passenger seat with lift up side table. Entry would be with sliding door fully open. This sink cabinet behind front passenger seat is an old Westfalia design.

Want to keep tall compartments cabinets to outside. Current plan with tpilet compartment in middle may make space feel tighter

Good luck

If short people could go with crosswise bed like new Wstfalia on Fiat Ducato chassis (has greater widtu than Sprinter) see pdf le in Westfaia subforum here
OldWest is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to OldWest For This Useful Post:
GeorgeRa (07-16-2012)
Old 07-12-2012, 05:18 AM   #4
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB
 
GeorgeRa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,379
Thanks: 1,222
Thanked 2,439 Times in 1,576 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldWest View Post
Move toilet compartment behind driver seat. Shorter sink cabinet closer to rear passengers--more open feeling.

Or, move toilet compartment behind driver seat, add full height cabinet with fridge, etc where toilet comoartment used to be. Add short sink cabinet behind front passenger seat with lift up side table. Entry would be with sliding door fully open. This sink cabinet behind front passenger seat is an old Westfalia design.

Want to keep tall compartments cabinets to outside. Current plan with tpilet compartment in middle may make space feel tighter

Good luck

If short people could go with crosswise bed like new Wstfalia on Fiat Ducato chassis (has greater widtu than Sprinter) see pdf le in Westfaia subforum here
Thank you for your review. My first drawing was with the head behind the driver seat but I was afraid of facing a big wall after rotating the driver seat. I agree that sticking the toilet in the middle could feel too busy. I am going to revisit this location. Small cabinet behind the passenger seat is definitely a possibility.
I went on Dusseldorf Westfalia site, too much drooling.
Unfortunately I am too tall for sleeping across a Sprinter, Fiat Ducato is 100mm wider so it could be a good option for me but have no clue when they will show up in US.
George.
GeorgeRa is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to GeorgeRa For This Useful Post:
Vtsapper (03-24-2016)
Old 07-12-2012, 04:20 PM   #5
Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Occidental, Ca.
Posts: 7,519
Thanks: 1,239
Thanked 4,748 Times in 2,692 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

1. The top of the drivers seat protrudes into the cargo area. My seat location puts the top 3" into cargo area. If you rotate the drivers seat, is there space for the occupants feet?
2. The sink does not have any counter area. Counter between stove & sink?
3. Do you really need a full macerator toilet with its black water tank? The most important toilet facility is a wide mouth plastic bottle for # 1. Easy fill & empty. McDonalds were created for # 2.
__________________
Sold 2008 diesel NCV3 144" WB high roof DIY conversion
2015 gas Ecoboost Transit 148" WB high roof conversion

Web Site: http://ortontransit.info

U-Tube Video: https://youtu.be/h5L6TZdy_y0
Graphite Dave is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Graphite Dave For This Useful Post:
GeorgeRa (07-16-2012), jplsplit (06-16-2015)
Old 07-12-2012, 09:52 PM   #6
d_bertko
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,949
Thanks: 515
Thanked 745 Times in 528 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

Graphite Dave has had the same experience as we have. Use our Luggable Loo twice on the last 10-week trip.

I'd go him one better on the lack of sink counter---we use two plastic dishpans outside the van on a picnic table.

It is true we could use them inside for twice the room as a typical rv sink---but what drycamper really wants to make a mess inside while cooking or cleaning up?
d_bertko is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to d_bertko For This Useful Post:
GeorgeRa (07-16-2012)
Old 10-20-2012, 02:33 PM   #7
Philj
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 138
Thanks: 26
Thanked 27 Times in 18 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

GeorgeRa,

Im not sure if I am interpreting what you are doing here correctly. In the beam analysis you have conducted you are using simply supported calcs, however in your cabinet the 36" dimensioned piece will be joined to the verticals so it is not simply supported as the joins at each end will support a moment. Also your previous diagram shows a vertical somewhere off centre so the beam will not be unsupported across its whole 36" length.

Could you expand on where you are intending on putting the 15 series to withstand the forces due to a crash and how you intend to secure the module to the van?
Philj is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Philj For This Useful Post:
GeorgeRa (10-20-2012), Norm 123 (10-19-2014)
Old 10-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #8
d_bertko
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,949
Thanks: 515
Thanked 745 Times in 528 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

I'll point out that essentially no construction is done in the real world with square beams.

The comparison should not be between 1.5x1.5 vs 1.0x1.0.

A better comparison is that the deflection on a 1x2 is less than a 1.5x1.5 even with an area of 2.0 vs the 2.25 of the larger series.

Of course the 80/20 comes in various profiles and an experienced engineer would use the higher-weight-per-foot profiles in critical use and the lighter profiles where the span is less.

Sometimes the extra width is useful to improve a door opening but narrower, deeper 80/20 would generally give you more interior volume and/or less weight for the same deflection.

It would be pretty funny to see a house where the floor joists were 8x8 instead of 2x12s!

Dan
d_bertko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2012, 04:51 PM   #9
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB
 
GeorgeRa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,379
Thanks: 1,222
Thanked 2,439 Times in 1,576 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by d_bertko View Post
I'll point out that essentially no construction is done in the real world with square beams.

The comparison should not be between 1.5x1.5 vs 1.0x1.0.

A better comparison is that the deflection on a 1x2 is less than a 1.5x1.5 even with an area of 2.0 vs the 2.25 of the larger series.

Of course the 80/20 comes in various profiles and an experienced engineer would use the higher-weight-per-foot profiles in critical use and the lighter profiles where the span is less.

Sometimes the extra width is useful to improve a door opening but narrower, deeper 80/20 would generally give you more interior volume and/or less weight for the same deflection.

It would be pretty funny to see a house where the floor joists were 8x8 instead of 2x12s!

Dan
I agree that using the right profile for a load makes perfect sense. In case of 80/20 there is also an issue of assembleability which often relates to availability of slots in right places. For example 2012 (series 10) and 3075 (series 15) profiles have slots on one side only. All other none square profiles have slots everywhere which has impact on esthetics.

George.
GeorgeRa is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2012, 07:12 PM   #10
Graphite Dave
Dave Orton
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Occidental, Ca.
Posts: 7,519
Thanks: 1,239
Thanked 4,748 Times in 2,692 Posts
Default Re: Layout plan.

Just use the lightest 1 1/2" square 80/20. The only need for rectangular sections would be places where there would be a large unsupported load which might be the bed support. Using 1" on the overheads may make the panels more difficult to install so not worth the weight savings. More important than the weight of the 80/20 is the weight of the panels. I used 1/2" plywood panel thickness but next time would use some sort of sandwich panel with thin skins and rigid foam core. Advantage would be insulation and much lighter weight. I do like the wood finish on my panels but would that would have to go.

The most important thing in using 80/20 is to isolate the 80/20 from the Sprinter body with wood insulators.

This is not rocket science so no need to spend too much effort with calculations. You will find the stuff to be very rigid when it is installed. Just cut, make connectors, bolt it up and proceed to the next phase of the conversion.

I do have a question on having all the cabinets removable. Will you have quick disconnects on all the electrical and plumbing? It is going to be a lot of work to remove seats and install the cabinets and the reverse if you will need to change back and forth very often. If it is one change each year for a vacation then it is not a problem. Maybe only some of the cabinets should be removable instead of all of them? The best part of our conversion is to have everything we need to camp ready to go at all times. Add food,water and clothes and go.
__________________
Sold 2008 diesel NCV3 144" WB high roof DIY conversion
2015 gas Ecoboost Transit 148" WB high roof conversion

Web Site: http://ortontransit.info

U-Tube Video: https://youtu.be/h5L6TZdy_y0
Graphite Dave is online now   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT. The time now is 03:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.