E-track Rear Deck Bed Support

I needed a raised bed for my 2006 Freightliner 2500HC 140 passenger. I contemplated removing the plastic trim under the rear windows to install the supports, but decided against it. My decision was to install E-track right over the plastic trim.

The E-track will serve other purposes also. I used multiple sheet metal screws on the top anchors. The bottom was fastened where body metal allowed. I thought about jumping the empty spaces with angle iron to allow more fasteners on the lower part. For my medium weight load service the fastening I used will be fine. I don't regularly haul heavy cargo.


The E-track mounting could be moved up a bit. I needed to maintain a specific distance from the bed deck to the ceiling. If that wasn't necessary the E-track may have been able to be shifted up enough to allow more fasteners on the bottom section.

10 foot long E-track seemed a waste. I used 3 ea. 5 foot sections of E-track with a 4 11/16" electrical box blank cover as a splice backer. I later discovered that Amazon sells 8 foot sections. (No splice needed.)

The 4 each 2x3's were cut by Home Depot to 66" long. Under 10 bucks.

Some of the cross pieces.



The socket end with 2x3 installed.



I'll likely use deck screws through slots in the socket fittings into the 2x3's.

Added:
I ultimately used a single deck screw in the slotted hole of each bracket. That locks the cross support in. Because the deck screw is near the edge of the board I pre-drilled for the screws. Through bolts would be overkill in my opinion. The deck can then be attached to the cross supports to keep things from flying loose in the event of a collision.

The decking pieces will then be screwed or lashed to the cross supports. I haven't decided on the platform design as yet. It will likely be 3/8" possibly 1/2" sheet stock, or webbed slats. Slats will make for easier storage during non-use than does flat stock.

Some parts info.

10 E-Track Wood Beam End Socket
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CD8RU3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 Foot E-track (Galvanized. Gray color will match the interior plastic better.)
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Horizon...qid=1480715087&sr=1-1&keywords=8+foot+e-track

I purchased 10 ea. E-track web fittings for another design that didn't work out. I will use them with heavy trucker bungee S hooks or carabiner clips for securing medium loads. They also offer 5 ea. at good price.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Fittings-...11&sr=1-13-spons&keywords=10+e-track+web&th=1

That's it for now.

vic

Added:
I used screws similar to these. I believe what I used were a #12 or #14 size that I had on hand. If I were purchasing screws I'd probably buy #12 or #10.

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Finish...6&sr=8-2&keywords=sheet+metal+screw+#12+x+3/4

Looks good.

Thanks. I was worried about rattles with all the brackets. Today I drove around a bit with the cross pieces installed. There wasn't any rattling back there except for a couple really poor places on the road. It should get even better with the deck installed for real use.

Bouncing all my 225# on the center of the one 2x3 didn't give any sign of problem. It will be even better with the decking installed to distribute the loads.

vic

Because my platform was not fasten down so I could quickly remove it, I strapped it down with a ratchet strap. Even though The cleats on the bottom of each of the four sections kept it from sliding and the cleats were wedged between the supports the strap was for worse case scenario. That may have eliminated any rattles in my case.

Looks nice! I've been planning something similar but have a couple extra challenges. I want to use L track for the van and they don't seem to sell a joist hanger that mates with that system. Also I want to raise the bed platform up to a more standard bike hauler configuration of about 39". Perhaps some standard joist hangers and metal channel to fabricate a riser. Not a welder, so I gotta keep it simple. Any thoughts or examples out there?

E track seems like it would be the easiest but there are plenty of l-track examples here on the forum. A lot of the moto builds here have a bed platform that would work for your application. I cant think of any off hand but look in the "Sprinter RV's and conversion write-ups" section. Several of the threads have moto in the title.

Surly Biker said:

Looks nice! I've been planning something similar but have a couple extra challenges. I want to use L track for the van and they don't seem to sell a joist hanger that mates with that system. Also I want to raise the bed platform up to a more standard bike hauler configuration of about 39". Perhaps some standard joist hangers and metal channel to fabricate a riser. Not a welder, so I gotta keep it simple. Any thoughts or examples out there?

Click to expand...

I like the L-track which I added on the floor of my 2004. I did the same on my 2006.

I don't know of any joist hangers for L-track either. That was one of the factors that led me to using E-track.

vic

Since I still use my van with passengers, the normal grey E-track is surprisingly inconspicuous when the seats are installed. There is no interference with the seats.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2966

Thanks for the info! I am planning a removable shelf inside the back door, just below the window level. This should work well. I also want a 'wall' from the shelf to the floor, it will be just behind a captains chair and wheelchair between the wheel wells. I bet the track could work for that too.

hkpierce said:

Since I still use my van with passengers, the normal grey E-track is surprisingly inconspicuous when the seats are installed. There is no interference with the seats.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2966

Click to expand...

I didn't recall seeing your low bed. That looks great.



I was pleasantly surprised at how well the gray color blended in. For my 2006 I made the E-track sections on each side the same length. Were I to buy the 8 foot pieces I would chop the passenger side to fit, but just run the driver side the full 8 feet. More tie off points is a good thing.

For the height that I used I needed to remove the ash trays. They were useless for me anyway.

One of my plans is for cup holders that will mount to my unused, and now plentiful 10 ea. web brackets.

NevadaBlue said:

Thanks for the info! I am planning a removable shelf inside the back door, just below the window level. This should work well. I also want a 'wall' from the shelf to the floor, it will be just behind a captains chair and wheelchair between the wheel wells. I bet the track could work for that too.

Click to expand...

I don't know what your design plans are. Be aware that there are also vertical oriented E-track pieces. They have worked for some van owners.



vic

Aqua Puttana said:

I didn't recall seeing your low bed.

vic

Click to expand...

My original post on this is from 2003 on YahooSprinterVan, years before Sprinter-Source.

I apologize if I simply missed it somewhere, but how did you fasten the E-track to the van walls? It looks like sheet metal screws.
I had planned to use PlusNuts, and was debating if I needed to add some metal plate for additional support our not. But if you're getting it done with sheet metal screws, than I'll be beyond overkill with my PlusNuts.

Tiny Travels said:

I apologize if I simply missed it somewhere, but how did you fasten the E-track to the van walls? It looks like sheet metal screws.
I had planned to use PlusNuts, and was debating if I needed to add some metal plate for additional support our not. But if you're getting it done with sheet metal screws, than I'll be beyond overkill with my PlusNuts.

Click to expand...

Post 32 in the below link explains how I did it.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39367&page=4

Tiny Travels said:

I apologize if I simply missed it somewhere, but how did you fasten the E-track to the van walls? It looks like sheet metal screws.
...

Click to expand...

I used sheet metal screws where the body parts aligned. I believe what I used were a #12 or #14 size that I had on hand. If I were purchasing screws I'd probably buy #12 or #10.

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Finish...6&sr=8-2&keywords=sheet+metal+screw+#12+x+3/4

Many commercially installed L-tracks are fastened using sheet metal screws. Some here would recommend using inserts and bolts. The sheet metal screws are more than good enough for a bed platform and up to most common tie-down service. I did add a label indicating "Medium Loads" on my track. (For whatever that means and is worth?) If the fasteners were to be over-stressed, the track will likely distort as opposed to a catastrophic failure as could happen with a single point D-ring attachment.

vic

Wait, you mean to tell me that all this fuss about attaching support plates to the vertical ribs, installing plusnuts, and supporting a rail of 80/20 is just an expensive way to waste my money? ...I believe that.

Do you think this method worked for you guys because you've both mounted the E-rail to the already existing horizontal brace at that location on the wall? I have to mount my bed a little higher to have the clearance underneath that I need, so maybe it's in my best interest to reinforce those vertical ribs in some manner that will distribute the load.

Tiny Travels said:

Wait, you mean to tell me that all this fuss about attaching support plates to the vertical ribs, installing plusnuts, and supporting a rail of 80/20 is just an expensive way to waste my money? ...I believe that.

Click to expand...

Some would agree. For a simple platform bed I'm one of those.

The commercially available MOAB bed is supported by the van walls with attachments at the corners only.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59411

Tiny Travels said:

Do you think this method worked for you guys because you've both mounted the E-rail to the already existing horizontal brace at that location on the wall? I have to mount my bed a little higher to have the clearance underneath that I need, so maybe it's in my best interest to reinforce those vertical ribs in some manner that will distribute the load.

Click to expand...

The vertical pillars are enough to support a loft bed E-track without problem.

A quick and easy method would be to bridge the higher space with a length of 1 x 6 dimensional lumber. I would use 3 each fasteners with fender washers to attach the board at the places where the body metal is available. (That should yield 6 each body fasteners per side. The dimensional lumber can cantilever out a bit if needed.) The E-track can then be attached to the 1 x 6 by pre-drilling and using sheet metal screws.

An alternative would be to use plywood or metal angle stock to bridge the attachment points/pillars.

People on a loft bed will not collapse the side walls of a Sprinter or any other brand van for that matter. The E-track pocket type 2x4 receivers will compensate for the angles of the wall higher up.

I do not recommend letting anyone sleep on a loft bed while driving. In the event of a collision or even a panic stop the bed will make a great skid platform to launch a body forward.

vic

Are you saying bridge the gap between vertical ribs with a 2x6 to backup the E-track and add rigidity in the areas not supported by the van ribs? That way you don't put enough down force on the E-track to bow it downward and lever against the fasteners in the ribs.
I can see why that'd be necessary, but I'd like to use something thinner than a 2" nominal piece of lumber I wonder if I could spot weld a thin piece of steel stock to the backside of the E-track without the welding heat deforming the track enough to matter. That might add enough beefiness.

Tiny Travels said:

Are you saying bridge the gap between vertical ribs with a 2x6 to backup the E-track and add rigidity in the areas not supported by the van ribs? That way you don't put enough down force on the E-track to bow it downward and lever against the fasteners in the ribs.
I can see why that'd be necessary, but I'd like to use something thinner than a 2" nominal piece of lumber I wonder if I could spot weld a thin piece of steel stock to the backside of the E-track without the welding heat deforming the track enough to matter. That might add enough beefiness.

Click to expand...

What about angle stock to bridge the space. Have one side of the angle into the gap and grind away that side at the vertical supports. I'm not an engineer but it seems like it would be stiff enough to fasten E track too.

Yes. The board adds stiffness.

Tiny Travels said:

... but I'd like to use something thinner than a 2" nominal piece of lumber ...

Click to expand...

That is why I suggested 1"x 6" nominal. not 2 x 6.
Added:
Although a 2x6 could be used with only end support to the body. My vision would be to relieve the ends so the extra thickness protrudes into outer spaces near the exterior wall panels/windows. That would provide extra rigidity over the 1" dimension lumber, but not encroach on the interior. Taking that to the illogical conclusion... a sheet metal plate (4 11/16" electrical box blank cover) could be used at the ends to attach the 2x6 dimensional lumber to the pillars. The 2x6 could then be recessed completely back into the outside cavity. That will provide a basically flush support for the E-track. There's more than one way to skin a cat.

* Remember. The MOAB unit attaches at just the four corners.

Back to 1x6. Some might feel more comfortable with an intermediate support of some sort. Shelving uprights as I used for my ladder hanging would work. The installed black shelving upright is shown here.








https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=38224


In my opinion just one centered to the open space would be enough. A 3" wide piece of 14 or 16 gauge flat stock would be another option. The 1x6 supported at the ends should be strong enough by itself.

The upright piece(s) could probably be pop riveted into place.
https://www.amazon.com/POP-Rivet-68LF-Large-Flange/dp/B00R1USFI6

vic

Added:
If you have welding capability then angle or C channel stock (purlins) could certainly be tack welded to the E-track and the assembly installed from there.
https://www.google.com/search?q=cee.....69i57j0l5.7680j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
http://lifetimesolutionstt.com/roofingSols

Full length support isn't required. The support pieces can be spliced in because the E-track will act as a joiner and stiffener.

Thanks, that looks like something I might do.