Removable 80/20 sleeper storage benches 170EXT

dynaco1

Member
Thanks to all who shared their 80/20 experiences here. Can we share our story, too?

Plan A: We thought it would be quick and easy to buy prefabricated wooden cabinetry. We studied the flimsy construction and changed our minds.

Plan B: We decided to specify and purchase customized wooden cabinetry. We created detailed sketches, specified plywood-only construction and waited three months for delivery. What we received was flimsy drawer hardware, zip screws and very heavy 3/4" particle board construction. When we picked-up our order, the van sank an inch or more under the load. It was obvious, these cabinets would eat-up payload capacity. Now, we have 800 pounds of mostly useless cabinets taking-up floor space in the garage. Money lost and more lessons learned. Should have listened to the smart 80/20 kids.

Plan C: Incorporate 80/20 construction. New goal was to create easily removable, rigid but lightweight combination sitting/sleeping/storage benches in a dinette configuration. Storage beneath the bench lids would need to allow for a 60L Engel or ARB fridge, one 2000W Honda generator, dinette table with removable legs, snow chains, tool kit, subwoofer, Li-ion battery, blankets, clothes and dry goods.

We visited one of the two local factory-authorized 80/20 distributors for a consultation and requested some initial simple design work, for which agreed to pay if we decided against 80/20. We brought the van to their office and explained our desired goals to an 80/20 specialist. They got excited about the 80/20 solar panel racks on the roof (Hein's design). We struck-up a friendship and got comfortable going back to them for more design help. In return, they created drawings and prepared the detailed BOM.

We placed our initial order with the distributor and paid their reseller premium for this particular order, which included some factory-preassembly of certain sections. Two weeks later, we picked-up the order at the local 80/20 distributor's office. They helped load the order into the van. Great service. Well-worth the premium paid.

While some folks here prefer the 80/20 15 series (1.5"x1.5") or Metric Series, our local 80/20 specialist indicated their 10 Series (1.0"x1.0") would be strong enough for our application. He utilized 10 Series 1010-S, 1003-S and 1004-S and a few sections of 1020-S and 1012-S quarter-round on the front edges of the bench lids. Our computer-generated 80/20 bill of material indicated a combined weight of only 126.83 pounds for this portion of our project, which included two bench/beds with hinged lids 18"H x 24"D x 78" and 84"L.

When our 80/20 project was installed and fully-featured, we were pleased it weighed so much less than wooden construction but we were disappointed it cost more than we budgeted. Several things contributed to cost overrun:

1) 80/20's minimum UPS shipping charge appears to be around $12 and it adds-up quickly if you are unable to plan/think ahead and consolidate all your small parts orders into a couple or even a single shipment. UPS is often more expensive than FedEx. For us, UPS Ground deliveries take two days longer than FedEx.

Luckily, there is a Fastenal warehouse five minutes from home, where one can quickly/easily purchase fasteners that one has failed to include in 80/20 orders. Fastenal is closed when needed most...on weekends and weekdays after 5pm.

2) To save on assembly time and space, we ordered some larger 80/20 sections factory-assembled. Without prior warning, our credit card was charged over $100 for a customized wooden freight pallet.

3) We requested a firm freight quote from 80/20, which we received. Yet, our credit card was billed 20% more than the firm freight rate quoted.

4) We utilized 80/20's on-line CHAT feature for technical assistance. Generally, they are quick and helpful. Twice, we received questionable technical advice, which resulted in wasted parts and wasted money. We have received no-hassle refunds.

5) We relied on 80/20's on-line technical descriptions and suggested hardware. Occasionally, there is lack of detail or lack a warning about combing incompatible suggested parts. No big deal unless one orders dozens of suggested parts. Again, wasted time, parts and money.

We are satisfied with 80/20 quality and service (with exception of the rattling panels...still working on a solution). Again, thanks to all who shared their 80/20 experiences here.
 

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dynaco1

Member
More 80/20

Ikea is ten minutes from home, which makes it convenient to buy items for test-fitting in the van in their parking lot and to return unfit items minutes later. Only recently, did we realize they had such aggressive pricing on fabric-by-yard/meter, seat cushions, throw pillow cases and feather pillow inserts. Bought it all at Ikea: floor runners, door mats, bench bottom cushions, back cushions, throw pillows and grey/black blankets glued to insulation for window covers attached with suction cups. We also bought two LED light strips there (native 12VDC without their AC wall pack power supply) for galley counter top task lighting.

Back support cushions are part of Vallentuna sofa package. Two items make-up each cushion: Vallentuna inner cushion 303.293.74/Vallentuna Hillared dark grey cover 303.295.19 A pull-from-inventory ticket needs to be printed by an Ikea employee before you pay and collect these back cushions from customer service. Nice price of $35 per cushion (inner and outer cover combined).

Bench seat bottom cushions can be pulled by the customer: Poang ottoman (black cotton) 503.199.44 $12/each.

The rest of the smaller, striped throw pillows are from their pillow section of store. 16" x 30" I think. These are firmer when stuffed with feather inners and then air-tumbled in the clothes dryer for five minutes.
 

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pfflyer

Well-known member
Nice build. I imagine the 20% up charge on the freight was the cost to crate it or secure it to the pallet or to build the custom pallet. Not un-common from what I have seen. If it was around $20 that is not out of line but they should have let you know ahead of time.
 

dynaco1

Member
Dinette Table: two slabs of 3/4" HDPE dolphin grey StarBoard were sized to fill the aisle gap between 80/20 ledgers to create queen-sized bed area. Starboard is raised onto removable legs to create dinette table. Ordered the HDPE cut to order with www.BoatOutfitters.com Also ordered two 1/2" counter tops, which we have yet to install. Choice of edge profiles. Quick service. HDPE can be heavy....
 

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dynaco1

Member
I had one or two suction cups loose suction. It was because the cup perimeter edges happened to cross the German glass maker's silk screened logos, which had a raised profile. I moved the cups to avoid the interference. Otherwise, the cups have been holding for 60 days. I will send details tomorrow.

These are the suction cups from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TU4617S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I cut a small "x" in the window cover with a skill knife. Then, pressed the head of the suction cup through, snipped-away the extra insulation and forcefully snapped the plastic retainer ring back over the head of the cup. Placement of the cups cannot be too near the window rubber seal; three-inches minimum from the window seal is best.
 

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GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Very nice conversion, just about a perfect use of 8020. Yes, HDPE is as heavy as plywood.

George.
 

marshroger@hotmail.com

2006,2500,118, Passenger
I had one or two suction cups loose suction. It was because the cup perimeter edges happened to cross the German glass maker's silk screened logos, which had a raised profile. I moved the cups to avoid the interference. Otherwise, the cups have been holding for 60 days. I will send details tomorrow.

These are the suction cups from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TU4617S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I cut a small "x" in the window cover with a skill knife. Then, pressed the head of the suction cup through, snipped-away the extra insulation and forcefully snapped the plastic retainer ring back over the head of the cup. Placement of the cups cannot be too near the window rubber seal; three-inches minimum from the window seal is best.
Excellent description, thanks!
 

Dhan

Member
Thanks to all who shared their 80/20 experiences here. Can we share our story, too?


While some folks here prefer the 80/20 15 series (1.5"x1.5") or Metric Series, our local 80/20 specialist indicated their 10 Series (1.0"x1.0") would be strong enough for our application. He utilized 10 Series 1010-S, 1003-S and 1004-S and a few sections of 1020-S and 1012-S quarter-round on the front edges of the bench lids. Our computer-generated 80/20 bill of material indicated a combined weight of only 126.83 pounds for this portion of our project, which included two bench/beds with hinged lids 18"H x 24"D x 78" and 84"L.

We are satisfied with 80/20 quality and service (with exception of the rattling panels...still working on a solution). Again, thanks to all who shared their 80/20 experiences here.
Would you be willing to share your 80/20 itemized list of materials that you ordered for the benches? I was planning on doing something similar, but with a pull out drawer on one side (rear) and slightly narrower and shorter benches for my 170. Thank you for sharing your build.

Dave
 

dttocs

Member
We are satisfied with 80/20 quality and service (with exception of the rattling panels...still working on a solution). Again, thanks to all who shared their 80/20 experiences here.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. What did you use for the black panels? And did you find a good solution to keep them from rattling in the 80/20 channel?
 

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I use 1" long strips of this silicon rubber gasket material located every 8-10". Use a flat screwdriver to push it between the panel and the extrusions lip, once pressed in it stays.

George.
 

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H2oboxer

New member
I would also like to see the BOM that you ended up with. Looking to do something similar, but in the shorter wheelbase.
Thanks
 

Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
Thanks for the detailed explanation. What did you use for the black panels? And did you find a good solution to keep them from rattling in the 80/20 channel?
See connectors "F" and "G" in this link:

http://www.ortontransit.info/testeighty4.php

The panels are inset 1/8" from front edge of extrusion. Looks better than flush. Not using the 80/20 groove eliminates rattles and allows the panels to be removed for access. The "F" connector is for removable panels and the "G" connector is for fixed panels. If you have access to the back of the panel the "G" connectors also allow panel removal. Neither of these methods rattle. I use 1/4" (7/32") plywood panels. If panel is large then I add a strongback glued to the panel to make it rigid.

I also am using some hinged doors off of 15 series. A 2 1/2" .090 continuous aluminum hinge with 1/4" pin from Mc Master-Carr works very well. Easy to cut to length. You do have to put a flat washer between the hinge and the 80/20 to space out the hinge so hinge is free to rotate.
 

thedude7

New member
Did you happen to post that BOM and I didnt see it? Just picked up my sprinter and am looking to do something similar
 

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