changing transmission fluid and filter on 2008 3500 nc3v

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Gordon Smith

Guest
On my 07 gasser (ncv3), I lay with my head under the torque converter, in order to see the drain come into view, and my feet forward under the engine. i put a 1 1/16" socket on the crank and rotate it with a 1/2" rachet. I site this for reference, for the gas engine only. Surely, someone will give corresponding info for the diesel.
 
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Gordon Smith

Guest
Sikwan had earlier posted a really excellent photo essay on this. I just checked some of my notes from his post.
He used a 27mm socket (the metric equiv of the 1 1/16 I used), with a 1/4" extension, and a wrench with a pivoting head.
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
As above, it is about as straightforward as can be. Use a 27mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn clockwise (from the front of the engine) until the torque converter drain bolt appears. Nothing to it.
 

dodgy

Member
did my fluid and filter change today, made a drain tube for the converter out of polly pipe, position your 4mm bit with swivel and extension on drain plug then slide the drain pipe over it and push it up against the converter, then undo the plug and pull out your tool out.
 

calvin

Member
Did my fluid/filter change yesterday. I did jack the trans and remove the crossmember. (very easy). Hardest part was getting to the f'n TC drain plug. Was hard to remove.

My 2011 has 58k on it.. was very surprised to see the fluid was black..no remnants of any red at all. No debris in pan, just some clutch particles on the magnet.

No need for any drain concoction for the TC.. just wipe it when done.

Installed 7.25qts of Amsoil Signature oil and she's happy once again
 

bobthebuilder

New member
I just finished my 60 K transmission service. I had read several posts before starting.
1. I removed the 4 bolts on the rear crossmember. I replaced them with 4 X M8 1.25 pitch 90 mm bolts. Placed a 4X4 block under the bolt heads and jacked up the tail shaft about 1.5 inches.
2. Drained, removed and cleaned the pan. Replaced the filter and gasket and reinstalled the pan.
3. lowered the tail shaft and reinstalled the original 4 bolts.
4. I removed the transmission cooler return line fitting with a 19 mm end wrench and removed the cooler line clamp with an 8 mm socket. These are on the right (passenger side) of the transmission. Ahead and above where the filler tube enters the transmission. The clamp holds both cooler lines in place.
5. I clamped a 3 foot piece of 9/16' I.D. tubing onto the threads of the cooler return line with a hose clamp. (1/2" might have fit also). I placed the other end of the tubing into a 5 qt oil jug, the kind that has a clear stripe on the side marker in liters and quarts.
6. Following a MB Youtube, I had only drained 4 quarts of fluid from the pan, I poured in (very slowly) 5 quarts of new fluid.
7. I had a helper start and stop the engine as 3 quarts pumped into the oil jug. I added 3 quarts and repeated twice. The final time I pumped out 3 quarts and added 2 quarts.
In total, I took out 4,3,3,and 3 for a total of 13 quarts. I put in 5,3,3 and 2. I started with 14 quarts of new fluid and ended up topping it up 1/2 quart when it was driven and warmed up. I may not have removed all of the system fluid but I know it is real close as the color now the same as fresh fluid. NOTICE: I DID NOT drain the torque converter.
 

Tukala

Repair / Service
Hi,


EDIT. This is for the 6-speed manual


I know there´s mainly autom. trannys used Sprinter in States ( or I quess so..)

But just in case someone runs into manaual one, and maybe thinking oli change, here´s few things to be censidered.

First, and think this is crusial, be sure to use correct oil, as listed in serv. manual.
Otherwise you most certain run into problems such as, 1st & 2nd gears hard to...

Second, dont fill the tranny up to the edge of the fill / check hole.
(both allen bolts, (was it 12mm or 14mm..umm)

If filled too much, you end up to those same problems as above..
i don´t have the proper manual in hand now, but I somehoe remember the correct amount was 1,2 liters.. BE sure to check..

Now, someone may think I´m posting somethning completely ridicilous, "like, how can 0,5 liter affect to the trannys operation..or so."
but trust me.. I´ve been with these a lot.

ANd just crossed my mind with this:

When putting the drain plug back, be aware to NOT over thighten it. Tansm.housing can broke quite easily, the plug is "taper shaped".
 
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BADDANDY

New member
I did my trans service today. Hope this solves the 50-55mph vibe.
I bought two e-bay kits, one with oil, filter, and gaskets. The other, a dipstick and tab.
Even hours after a shower and dinner I still smell trans fluid!
I don't know how many years since the last service, but whoever did it never put a new lock tab on the cap and it was still on the tube.
My driveway slopes down to the street, so backed er up and put front on ramps facing the street. I only removed the 2 trans mount bolts and jacked er up 2". The converter drain plug took over a hour to remove, but only 10min to install. Everything else was easy. Made a little mess, but I had laid down cardboard to catch it. Fluid was dark grey and magnet wasn't too dirty.
 

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bryan11

New member
Is it possible to extract transmission fluid via the dipstick tube? I read there is a bend in the dipstick tube. I'd like to just change 3-4 quarts of fluid this way in between service intervals. I had it professionally changed at 40K and am now at 65K with slight RSN downshifting from 2-1 gear.
 

hightechcoonass

New member
I did my service yesterday. 2008 2500. 125,000 miles.
I had to use the heat gun to get the plug off.... it was crazy tight.
I did the same, supported the tranny and removed the rear support cross member- then jacked at that location.
Preparation......
put cardboard down (oil we be everywhere)
Have tall jacks available and lots of wood cribbing before you start. All of the floor jack I have were too short. I used a camper screw jack stand (it takes very little force to support / hold up the transmission.
If it not a level surface you will have lots of oil in the pan when you put it out. (seam obvious, yes)
The transmission needs to jacked to get clearance room to remove the 2 front pan screws and to be able to pull the pan out.

Once the cross member is out its easy to get around under there and see what you have. (I had lots of dirt and gravel on top of the cross member - be prepared)

I dropped the pan and changed the filter. I did not attempt the torque converter... too much trouble to get to it and fight it - especially knowing how tight the pan plug was!
Pan only drained 3 quarts so that's what I put back it. I will run it for a few thousand miles and drain again and refill. I plan do this 2 times. My main goal was to get the pan dropped, change the filter and clean the inside.
 
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fishermunn

Art Show Van
the first time i changed the fluid i removed the cross member for easier access. it was not too difficult, but sprint guy (iirc) suggested just removing the bolts from the cross member to the transmission housing then using an appropriate size of wood stock, jack the transmission above the cross member. there is a round opening in the cross member to place the wood stock against the transmission housing. it was much easier and way faster. plenty of room to remove the pan.
the torque converter is sorta of a pia, but once you have the correct tool, not so much. a .25" drive socket with an extension with a jointed end makes quick work of getting to that small allen screw. sorry, i don't remember the size of the metric allen socket.
 

fishermunn

Art Show Van
i went back to the original post and copied carls suggestion.
he states it better than i did.........i also noticed the size of the allen screw on the torque converter is 4mm

On the NCV3 3500's only (sorry Jon) , to remove the pan : simply remove the 2 bolts that go in from below the cross member on both sides of the mount , then place a jack and a piece of wood under the center of the mount (round bushing ) and finally jack carefully and the trans will raise off the cross member. I have never removed the cross member to service the NCV3. Lastly you can access the drain plug for the torque converter when the trans is raised (lifted) much easier that way.
 

mikeme

2015 LTV IB: 2015 3500 V6
i went back to the original post and copied carls suggestion.
he states it better than i did.........i also noticed the size of the allen screw on the torque converter is 4mm

On the NCV3 3500's only (sorry Jon) , to remove the pan : simply remove the 2 bolts that go in from below the cross member on both sides of the mount , then place a jack and a piece of wood under the center of the mount (round bushing ) and finally jack carefully and the trans will raise off the cross member. I have never removed the cross member to service the NCV3. Lastly you can access the drain plug for the torque converter when the trans is raised (lifted) much easier that way.
Any idea of the specified torque for these two bolts?
 

mikeme

2015 LTV IB: 2015 3500 V6
I actually found more than a note.

purchased the ultimate sprinter service manual, and it brought up a wealth of info.

for my 2015 MY 3500 with a motor home on top, (by the VIN lookup)

the following torque is specified. (my conversion to inch pounds)

transmission oil pan drain 22 nm (194 inch pounds)
Transmission oil pan to housing 9 nm (80 inch pounds) I know some folks say 8 nm, perhaps an earlier or different application.
torque converter drain 8 nm (71 inch pounds)

the two mounting bolts for the rear transmission support to the frame get 58 nm (43 ft lb)

At 38,800 miles, the fluid is quite dark.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSR50BQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
proved quite helpful (with a T25 bit) for the torque converter drain plug. Dennis had suggested finding a tool truck for a similar tool. I ordered a spare, which came in handy since the bit is stuck in the original plug.
The local MB dealer considers the plug a special order item. (what does this tell you?)

I pulled the bolts on the support to cross member, and used a couple old ones from my VW, then jacked up for clearance.

found that most of a mess can be avoided if you drop the pan, and prop it in place, then pull the filter inside the transmission down a bit let it hang at an angle. this lets most of the fluid above the filter drain out. then place the filter in the pan, rotate 90 degrees (yaw) and remove.
 
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mikeme

2015 LTV IB: 2015 3500 V6


here is the transmission pan and original magnet all cleaned up.



and a photo of the torque converter drain plug



the tool mentioned in previous post makes this a fairly easy job. used a quarter inch hex drive torx bit.

looking at the photo, it looks like a straight sided hex (allen) socket, which may explain why the torx bit bonded to the drain plug on removal.







These are not the drain plug.
 
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