newbie, need to choose van asap, seek advice + budget review

quest

New member
hi y'all, i recently found the forum, glad i did; useful browses so far but am very new and this is my 1st post. i'm currently keen to get a van and set it up for my purposes asap. i began actively looking at various van models last oct., w/a minimal budget and ignorance about important factors for vehicle quality. got the wrong old '85 dodge, then a much more reliable '08 minivan, but i've sadly realized not big enough for my daily needs. i've been slowly heading toward a new nomadic chapter since almost a year ago, but only in the last 6 weeks have decided i need more than the minivan and decided it's worth the investment in a sprinter. however, i'm on the fence now about one vs. a ford transit, after much comparison also w/promaster, etc. i have some specific needs and constraints that may be unique, and am seeking help to move process along. i've outlined below, and would Much appreciate any perspective or tips, or suggestion on go to resources.

i lived in the sf bay area over 16 years and traveled by bike; wasn't a motor vehicle owner since '98 till end of '15, so plenty for me to learn re: associated costs. with my recent decision to buy and drive again, i've been studying, but am still not updated on car mechanic details like engine 'tuning.' i grew up in upstate ny, and now plan the opposite of a snowbird: i'm leaving the west coast to try out stints back in snow in the upper midwest and northeast, house/petsitting, etc. to explore where to relocate. so i want:

-high roof, not extra high, 144" wb or transit 148" wb. it's for just me and occasional visitors, no pets.
-resilience against rust and corrosion from winter salt and slush/snow/rain--i gather sprinters have shown rust vulnerability, not sure if that's improved in more recent models. if needed could hopefully add something like this: http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_how_to_stop_rust.htm --easier if i can find a mechanic to do underbody coating.

-plumbing: a small sink basin and tap, could be pump-controlled. minimal running water needs, would be most helpful for washing dishes. simple design w/a portable filtered water supply for some cooking, and greywater output i'll dump. i don't shower much, can do so at gyms and don't need onboard setup, and plan to keep compost toilet bucket w/separate urine dump and trowel for bucket digs when needed. i'm not as sensitive as some to odor here and don't want to debate it.
-cooking: a 1300 watt induction burner, maybe a separate electric hot water kettle, and a solar oven (pref. over a crockpot). i cook plenty of whole foods, vegetarian. don't plan to use a microwave or any propane. am choosing against fires, and all petroleum or gas heating fuels, in this space. will need a pure(?) sine-wave inverter for the induction cooktop, at least.
-flooring: only care that it be fairly durable and cleanable, w/decent insulation underneath.
-perishable food: i have a 65 qt. cooler now, but am not excited to buy ice every few days, and reviewing electric icemakers none seem worthwhile given cost/size/maintenance. have some reluctance, but think it may be worth investing in a similar sized fridge like http://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX-6...showViewpoints=0&sortBy=recent#R2COY5CNPGOLWQ --or a similar fairly efficient model.
-heat: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XDTWN2/ref=s9_hps_bw_g201_i6 --or a similar ceramic space heater: would like model that doesn't report melt of plastic casing, and has some efficiency. i have some terracotta tile/pots (will add soapstone) for radiant thermal mass.

-i probably need a toilet/cooking vent/fan, and some additional portable fan for cooling. don't intend an air conditioner, despite some humid sites.
-while installing a small skylight would be cool, http://diy.stackexchange.com/questi...ros-and-cons-of-solatube-vs-velux-solar-tubes --other roof mounts are priority, it would be snow covered sometimes, and may be over budget--that's a last addition to consider.

-other electric gear: enough outlets (via power strips i think can work?), a couple LED lights, some wiring. key item is my laptop: i'll use for much communication and freelance employment gigs while mobile. not generally interested in streaming video access except for shorts on youtube/vimeo, some streaming podcasts would be useful. i guess i'm about to get my First cell phone but it probably will be flip; would pursue a smart phone Only if needed for affordable access to wifi hotspot. i try to stay minimal w/tech in this category (will find route maps ok w/o gps).
-but, probably will need to set up a cellular signal booster, not sure re: a router antenna. need some simple education soon on mobile internet access and cell service basics!
-i also, though this may be challenging given priorities of internet access and using my laptop outside of van sometimes, hope to minimize my electromagnetic field exposure. a friend who's emf reactive is designing her mobile trailer w/"turning off the built in wifi in my computer, using an external wifi adapter...mounted on the outside of the Vehicle, and connected to my computer with an EMF shielded cable." http://www.lessemf.com/wiring.html --could use advice re: whether this wiring shielding would make a desired, affordable difference for me.
-working in the writing field, i expect to also periodically use a smaller printer/scanner, though could sacrifice this, and limit printing and scanning doc. projects to town stops if needed. so: little plumbing, but significant electricity needs.

-power supply: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-200Ah-L...800583?hash=item4afa0dfcc7:g:F38AAOSwqrtWocOG --interested in lithium iron phosphate batteries, not lead acid, gel or any version. i also have chemical sensitivity, concerns re: weight, etc.
-want to add whatever roof solar i can afford: would like design more stealth, but also sun power when possible. think something folding, sometimes for front window setup like http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-p/kit-stcs100d.htm could be useful, but not enough for my needs regularly.(?)

my friend who specifically needs an environmentally safe vehicle said she's: http://www.littlevehicleforchange.org/electricity.html (cool design, btw)
"installing both DC and AC wiring, so that I can run both types of appliances; will use as many DC powered appliances as possible: fridge, lighting, crock pot, fans, vents and water pumps. I will still need AC power for my computer...and kitchen appliances.... Two power hungry appliances I'll have to use conservatively are my air purifier and the hot water machine that keeps me drinking all the herbal teas.... When I'm off grid, I'll have to minimize their use. *Cooking with electricity isn't practical on a solar power budget.* I'll have a toaster oven and hot plate...but will do most of my cooking on my wood stove, with my solar oven.... will require me to plan ahead and do less impulse cooking."
--i won't need as many appliances run: i can tolerate laundry in a laundromat now, won't need regular hot water supply, Might add a blender/juicer but that's not priority. would love perspective on her statement re: solar being insufficient for electric cooking needs.

-other items in my van design: have cut a smaller than twin size mattress for me, need an ergonomic desk space and chair for office work, room to store inside a folding electric bike (maybe 42#) i intend to get (want minimal external van mounts), space for toilet and bucket amendments, food/clothes/bedding storage, and books. i worked at bookstores 12 yrs, have minimized my collection to 7 square milk crates now--could probably reduce into 6 crates, but that's the quantity and weight coming w/me; i can't currently replace or eliminate them.

-i need to decide quite soon, ideally within a week, what vehicle to buy. my best options for this project are to get a used van within a half-day's drive from the north-south range between seattle-san fran; have been housesitting and setting state residency in WA, but must get south to start a cat sit by oakland starting april 26. i'll have 1 month there to do build. then need to return to Wa by the first week of june for a dental appt., registering an llc, and other last business--possibly including solar setup time in oregon?--and need to be done, enough, in time to leave the northwest by JUNE 17 the latest: plan to drive to northern minnesota to start a conference and must arrive by 6/20. then head east from there, ideally done w/all setup on west coast!
i have a back up option of flying to MN and back, and continuing to finish van and arrangements for another month till late july, but have committed to plans visiting canada starting then and would really prefer to keep on track w/completion by mid-june.

vehicle decision factors include: budget, access within this west coast range, how fast it will be possible to install what i need, fuel efficiency/access/pollution. re: the last point....
my friend needs a bigger, heavier vehicle than i w/a big shower and extra storage; her notes are "a diesel truck has the towing power I need, and allows me to use biodiesel where it's available. Diesel fumes are very toxic. The new generation of "clean" diesel engines are much more effective for cars than for trucks, and while they reduce emissions, don't bring them down to safe levels. But gasoline fueled trucks can't use alternative fuels and don't have the power to pull my house."
-i'd say re: aerodynamic design, the high roof 144" sprinter or 148" transit are similar enough. i'd like a van circa '07 or later, that will hold up to repeat x-country driving, closer to great lakes and new england, over a few years--that i can get accessible repairs for when needed.
being able to occasionally use biodiesel appeals, but if a diesel engine i'd mostly be stuck w/that, and don't think i can afford a '14 sprinter w/supposed cleaner fuel efficiency (now the blue-tec's being challenged in court as falsely advertising).
-i'm not sure of estimating my overall weight: can someone informed about the likely lithium array i'd need and weight of other stated supplies say if a ford gas engine would have capacity to haul it, or if i'd need to go diesel on that count? maximizing fuel yield where possible is a priority: would i end up avg. 16mpg regardless, or would sprinter show an actual better mpg given my total weight haul?

budget: i can spend about $30k total on this, $32k max. my very Rough estimate for now on initial supplies and work, incl. new tires if needed, etc. is about $16500+. in the past i've often not been the most accurately informed on project costs and have underestimated. this may be true here, though i'm inclined toward thrifty supplies and can compromise some if needed. i Appreciate any helpful evaluation of my budget guesses, incl. additional materials i may need to consider:
$1000 tires
500 oil change, fluids, service
500 replacement filters, misc. parts
1000 suspension, custom for taller rv design
1000 plumbing and kitchen gear (incl. solar oven and juicer)
1000 flooring, insulation, sound insulation
5000 house batteries, and inverter
750 fridge
250 water filter, and pump
150 LED lights, wiring
100 space heaters (may get electric blanket/pad too)
100 portable fans and uv blocking shades
600 cellular booster, wifi gear
300 100w folding solar panel
3000 another 600w solar install (est. wattage need, help pls?)
1000+ labor, build out help...

this currently leaves me about $15-16k max for van purchase. i'll take a loan as is, and don't want to pursue financing of more expensive vehicle.

does the build out i want seem doable, given time constraints and my limited experience in construction?
do i need to budget for more professional help from someone for van conversion? if so, where to go in nor cal or nw?
will sprinter or transit fit more of my needs?
i'll share this w/other experienced folks too, but do hope for your input. thanks so much! seeley --can give phone # to discuss if useful, just pm me.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Before jumping into a sprinter, I would suggest looking at Ford/Chevy vans with fiberglass high tops. Expedition portal has plenty of great examples of converted domestic vans. These are often cheaper. EX-government high top vans come up for sale on auction sites occasionally, and are generally good deals (less than half the cost of a sprinter usually). There are also some RV conversions based on high roof domestic vans. These can be had within your budget. They would need modification to meet you needs possibly.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/58-4wd-(and-2WD)-Camper-Vans

Buying a 4WD domestic van and having a hard top installed is also an option, and can be done for a reasonable cost.

If you do not have the financial resources, or the skills, I would avoid a diesel powerplant. Depending on miles the diesel fuel savings may not be significant. Diesel service can be more expensive, so that is also a consideration. Many diesel vehicles carry a price premium as well. As far as pollution concerns, a gasoline powerplant makes next to no particulate, and much less NOX. CO2 emissions will be a bit higher overall. Diesels are not substantially better compared to a modern gasoline powerplant.

As far a fridges go, a Truck Fridge TF49 model is cheaper than the top-loading model you linked, and is reliable.

Resistance type electric heaters work fine as long as you have shore power to run them. The same goes for the induction cooktop. Running the cooktop off the grid is an expensive and involved proposition unless you have a generator.

A roof vent (powered if possible) is very good idea. As for a toilet, a cassette unit is easy to fit and use. Using it only for #2 will reduce odors and extend emptying intervals.

I am not going to address the EMF/health concerns, (research has shown no causal link). If you want to avoid EMF you should probably avoid any populous areas, the amount of RF alone would surprise you.

Lead acid batteries are the best solution right now unless you have the expertise or the $$$$ to go lithium. If you are concerned about chemical sensitivity, go with AGM batteries. They are leak proof. Mount them outside if you are paranoid. A large bank will be less than 300lbs. Which is significant, but not a problem if properly planned for.

I strongly suggest you do not rush into this. It is a recipe for a very expensive life lesson. Your budget is reasonable if you do most of the work yourself and purchase a used vehicle.

It may be easier to find a used and already converted van, and make the interior mods you need.

Your time period is very short. If you are devoting all your time to this project (for an amateur), it MIGHT be possible to get a basic build put together. But you have no room for screw-ups, mechanic issues, or other problems. Honestly buying an already converted vehicle may be your best bet.

Assuming you keep plumbing and electrical systems simple, an amateur can do a conversion similar to what you suggest. However given your questions you have at least at 5-10 weeks of heavy reading and research before you are ready to tackle anything in this ballpark. I would suggest professional help, especially considering your timeline.

As a note, breaking your questions up, and using titles/formatting for longer posts will get you more responses.
 
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