GoPower Solar Panels

I have a 2018 Unity CB that came with two GoPower solar panels by mistake instead of four. My dealer, Lake Region RV, installed two more in Minnesota after realizing that they had not ordered our Unity with four panels.

Unfortunately, they forgot to remove the protective film on the panels and by the time I noticed it the heat of summer had baked on the protective film. GoPower said removing the protective film now would be difficult. Lake Region RV said they could look at it but so far has not responded on when they would look at it.

Today I went on the roof to add insect screens to my Fantastic Fan vent covers and to check roof seals. The Lake Region RV installed panels looked pretty bad but I also noticed that one of my LTV installed solar panels looks bad.

LTV installed panel:


Lake Region RV installed panel:


I took delivery in November 2017. Should I contact LTV or GoPower regarding the LTV installed panel problem?

I am attaching the photos as files in case you can't see my OneDrive online files.

Yep, exactly the way mine looked. I am the second owner of a 2017 Wonder and the protective film was not removed. I thought they were dirty but closer inspection revealed it was protective film. I contacted GoPower and they said that they had heard that a Magic Eraser would work. Well, I don't know who said that but there isn't any way one would work on my panels. I tried several means to remove it and finally figured out how.

Use a plastic scraper held almost vertical to the panel and scrape left to right in a 2 - 4 inch motion. You will see it start to bubble and then it will begin to flake away. Very tedious. Don't apply a lot of downward force as damage to the cells can occur. As you work, you'll be able to tell how much pressure is needed to make the film release and break away. I only had 2 panels and it took several hours.

I don't know if LTV is supposed to remove it during installation or whether the dealer is supposed to remove it on delivery (may be too late) but there evidently is a communication problem some where.


Here is the scraper. Don't expect 3 inch swaths to come off at a time.

Putty Scraper

Part on mine looked like your hazy panel. Oh, when you scrape, you aren't trying to get under the film (the reason to have it almost vertical), you are actually trying to scratch it off. You can use a fingernail to see what I mean.

Here is a closeup of what mine looked like.

This issue has been discussed before, https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69397&highlight=Glass+panel, and the conclusion was to replace the flex panels with rigid glass panels. The flex panels only have a 5 year warranty as compared to glass panels like Renogy that have a 25 year warranty. The warranty period says a lot about how long the manufacturer expects them to last. Based on reports from customers, they are lucky to see 3 years of service with flex panels. If you read the Go Power warranty, https://gpelectric.com/go-power-warranty-information/, you may find that it costs more to try and get Go Power to stand behind their product than buying new Rigid glass panels that will give you 5+ times the service life of flex panels. You can get the compact design panels (https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Compact-Design/dp/B07GF5JY35) with specs of 42.2 X 19.6 X 1.38 inches, Weight: 16.5lbs, max output of 5.72a for $106. Or their new edition panels at 41.6 X 20.7 X 1.38 Inches, Weight: 14.3lbs and max output of 6.1a for $117 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFMBF3G/ref=twister_B07QDLNS5Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1). Looks like replacing them with rigid glass panels would be the best solution. Just abandon them in place and put the glass panels over the top. When Klipstr helped Scarecrow on his replacement solar install that's what they did, https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63158&highlight=Solar+install. Do some research here first on solar installs to decide how you want to mount (screw in or none screw) the new glass panels it will save you a lot of time. I would also seriously consider changing out your controller for a Victron Smart MPPT controller (https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/smartsolar-100-30-100-50), you'll get much better performance from your new panels.

Oh, I also used one of the green scotch brite pads.

During my contact with GoPower, they asked if the peeling/hazy "layer" also covered the white area around the panels. If it did, then it was the protective layer and not delamination.

I didn't measure the outputs before film removal (wish I had) but afterwards in full sun in March, here is what they measured:
Rear Panel 17.81 Volts 4.70 Amps
Front Panel 18.92 Volts 5.00 Amps

A trick to removing the connectors is to put a cable tie around them where the "ears" are and pull it tight. It'll compress the ears so that you can pull the connector apart. Then slide the cable tie off and discard. I numbered the connectors before removal so I knew how to reconnect. Be sure your meter is set correctly before connecting it to the panel.

Since I have a Wonder, weight is a big concern. While I'd rather have rigid panels (and 400W instead of 200), I don't know if I can manage the extra 60 pounds of panels + mounting hardware.

if I had a Unity, I'd take SSTraveler's recommendation and just replace them. Cleaning 4 panels will take hours and in that time, you could have installed new longer lasting ones with higher amperage output.

Test cleaning a cell (full black square) to decide how long it takes and the amount of effort and then decide if it is worth it. 4 new panels, a 100/50 victron controller, and a BMV-712 (battery monitor) would be close to $1000.

I just replaced one flex panel on my 2016 Unity through the GOPower warranty. Without a hassle, they sent me a replacement panel. However the new one was 3.5" longer and would not fit between the antenna and the bathroom skylight. I ended up taking them both off and switching locations. My quickest, cheapest solution for now. It doesn't take many years of full sun exposure to dull the Flex panels, skylights, and cause your sealant to fail.

RV2019:

Weight for you is actually less a concern than for Unity owners. If you look at your OCC numbers you can see that. I think mine is around 1600#. 60# isn't going to bother you as much as dark when there should be light!

Doggone it SSTraveler! Jump in here before me with more correct information than I could possibly deliver! If we didn't live so far apart we could form a business and make a million dollars.

GoPower solar install is of the devil! If you are lurking here and thinking of buying a new LTV don't order it with the LTV solar package. don't do it. Did I mention not to do it?

My OCC is 1560.

That includes passengers, full fresh water, any black/grey that isn't dumped, and then everything else that goes into an RV. The Wonder does have more storage than one could possibly fill and stay within the weight constraints.

If my last Cat Scale weight was correct, with my wife and I, along with our Sheltie, full fresh water, no black/grey, full diesel & DEF, clothes, supplies, etc, for a 2 day trip we still have 380 lbs before we reach the GWVR of 10,360. I've added a VIAIR 400P RV compressor and a couple more items since the weighting.

I'm also increasing the weight of my batteries by approx 40 lbs when I get the FullRiver's installed. Speaking of which they should be here later today.

RV2019, you have the weight capacity, the Victron BM712, and the Full River AGM batteries why wouldn't you complete your investment by replacing your controller and adding glass panels? Going with a MPPT controller and glass panels would net you the most effective performance of your solar/battery/charging system. You are more than halfway to a great power system in your rig. If you are looking to save some money and know you are only interested in having a 400w system do as I did. Just add 2-100w glass panels by replacing your flex ones for now and replace your controller with a Victron Smart Controller 100v/30a. That's the perfect size controller for an ultimate 400w solar system. Then later as you see your needs change you can easily add 1 or 2 more 100w glass panels. Once you get all the components in place adding more panels is the easy and inexpensive part. Also if you don't have some kind of a chassis battery trickle charger you should consider one to maintain that battery. There are several options to choose from, I installed a Trik-l-start.

Klipstr, I would love doing Solar installs in my spare time. I think it is fun doing a custom job each time. I learn something new every time and I wouldn't care if I got paid, it's just that fun for me! Have you installed a chassis battery trickle charger yet? You need one!

That may be a winter project. Leaving on our 1st 2 week trip in a few days. Have only taken it out for a 2 day trip so far. Need to get more comfortable with it and start saving a little money. I had to replace the batteries since they were bad. I think the BMV712 may be an insurance policy for the new $$ batteries.

Regarding more panels, can the 2 flex panels be wired in series along with 2 glass panels in series? That would give 400 watts. Then when the flex ones go bad, I could replace them. I'm getting this now from the flex ones - at least I did in March.
Rear Panel 17.81 Volts 4.70 Amps
Front Panel 18.92 Volts 5.00 Amps

I like the idea of the Trik-l-start. I see there is also a Amp-l-start. I think it could be easily wired to the battery take-off under the hood. What size wire would be needed to run from the battery bay to the engine compartment. The yellow wire in the photo looks small. And do you have it as a second battery from your solar or are you pulling from your house batteries?

I also need to save room on top for a wifi/data source.

Second thought, it might be worth a trip for me to SC and have you do the solar for free since you "wouldn't care if I got paid".

You would make sure the 2 go power panels are wired in parallel and 2 glass panels are wired in parallel and those 2 pairs of panels wired together in series. Then replace the flex panels sometime down the road. The Trik-l-start is installed off the battery Isolator Solenoid and Isolator relay but I don't know where that is on the Wonder. See this thread starting at #145, https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35862&page=15. Maybe Klipstr knows where the Battery Isolator Solenoid and and Isolator Relay are in a Wonder.

Sure come to SC for help if you need it but it is so easy to add panels I'm not sure it would be worth it. Send me a Personal Message email anytime, I have helped many do their own installations.

I have found the solenoid and relay in my wonder. I have the murphy bed model and it is behind a panel below the house chair armrest (armrest closest to the driver seat). I've already been there. It's interesting that there are multiple wires with fuses and aren't described in the LTV manual. Wish I knew what each did so that if a problem arose, it might help. I connected a Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse block to the solenoid's house hot connection. I'm using 3 of the 6 circuits - 1 is for a dual 2.1A USB charging port and 2 are 12V cigarette lighter plugs which are used for CPAPs. I grounded the fuse block to the chassis.

For the panels, I'd definitely like to go the route of not drilling mounting holes. Is there a "how-to" for that somewhere?

Thanks for the thread link for the Trik-l-start. I'm building a "want" list and have added it. Hope there is room where the solenoid and isolator is. I've already moved the isolator relay once!

Got an answer from GoPower about my LTV installed solar panel and the bad area on it:

"The warranty is for 5 years on the output of the panel. The only way to know for sure if there is an issue is to measure both with a multi-meter in the same sun conditions.

I have included some instructions on how to do this:
Disconnect MC-4 connectors from each panel
Once the connector is apart place the leads of a multi meter across both pins of the panel. Note the
pins of the meter must make contact with the metal pins of the panel to obtain a correct measurement.
You should see between 20-15 volts depending on sun conditions. If this number is lower then there is
an issue with the connection with the meter or an issue with the panel output.
The same measurement can be completed for amperage. Note: make sure your meter is able to handle
the rated amperage of each panel. 160 watts will require a 10 amp fused meter. 100watts will only
require a 5 amp meter.
Change your meter to the amperage setting and complete the measurement in the same manner.
The current of 160 watt panels can be as much as 9 amps depending on sun conditions. 100 watt panels
will be lower around the 5 amp mark. Multiple panels should all have similar numbers if they have the
same sun conditions."

Apparently, I am supposed to test the panel and if the voltage is low "maybe" they would agree I have a defective panel. Not happy with GoPower. By the way, they did show diagrams and a photo on how to separate the connections. I don't have the tool they show.

You don't need the tool. Use a cable tie. Wrap it around the "ears" of the connector and pull tight. This will pinch the ears and then you can separate the connectors. I did use a thin screwdriver to slip in the connector crack and pried a little while pulling on the connector. Then throw the used cable tie away. Positive and negative cables have different end orientations. Positive match and negative match. Mine were all side by side so I numbered them 1 - 4 (left to right) before removal so I could put them back correctly.

And yes, that is the same instructions they sent me which is why I had the volts and amps listed in this thread above.

I do not think this is GoPower's problem. LTV or the dealer should remove. However, if the protective film had "REMOVE PROTECTIVE FILM" in large letters across the panel, everyone would know there is something to take off.

Added PDF in case others need it.

RV2019 said:

You don't need the tool. Use a cable tie. Wrap it around the "ears" of the connector and pull tight. This will pinch the ears and then you can separate the connectors. I did use a thin screwdriver to slip in the connector crack and pried a little while pulling on the connector. Then throw the used cable tie away. Positive and negative cables have different end orientations. Positive match and negative match. Mine were all side by side so I numbered them 1 - 4 (left to right) before removal so I could put them back correctly.

And yes, that is the same instructions they sent me which is why I had the volts and amps listed in this thread above.

I do not think this is GoPower's problem. LTV or the dealer should remove. However, if the protective film had "REMOVE PROTECTIVE FILM" in large letters across the panel, everyone would know there is something to take off.

Added PDF in case others need it.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I agree about the protective film, but one of the panels LTV installed properly has started to bubble. That is my concern with GoPower.

From your 2 images, one is hazy and the other is bubbled. The hazy one is the protective film and the bubble is the protective film coming off. Look at the white edges of the panel (about an inch or so wide), scrape it with a fingernail and you'll see it start to bubble/peel too. So basically, neither had the film removed originally. I agree, it does look like delamination and it is - delamination of the protective film - not panel delamination. Both of my 200W panels were installed by LTV and they both had areas of bubbling, flacking and 1 had a hazy section like your hazy photo.

I would check the voltage and amps mid day (sun as high in the sky as possible - not noon) and let us know the values. I was getting solar charging with my panels before I removed the film but the GoPower controller display only shows the values (volts & amps) that it is sending to the batteries and that is dictated by the voltage of the batteries and which charging stage the controller is in i.e. bulk, absorption & float. So the values on the controller will not give a good indication of what the panels are actually putting out.

If you want to get technical:

Go here and enter your city & state:
https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/

Then look at the data returned to get the solar noon time (listed under the Solar Noon/Midnight column). Measure your panel readings close to that time.

Then go to this link and enter your address to get your latitude:
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=Find+latitude+of+a+city&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Then go to:
http://where-rv-now.com/Notes/Solar...2EZa7SKR-L30AF8wl1OB9eDzxhkO7V8J5c#Calculator

Enter your latitude, the date you took the measurements, the PV array rating (enter 100W and 17.5 volts since this is the rating for the GoPower panel). Then click calculate and get the Theoretical Maximum Panel Output value. Compare this to the values you measured.

The MC4 connector tools are very inexpensive on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Assem...onnector+tool&qid=1556191165&s=gateway&sr=8-3. I actually bought the kit with the crimping tool so I could make my own cables with MC4 connectors. The tools make it very easy to do everything you need with the connectors. I've attached a PDF on the tools use.

There are lots of threads on Solar Installs and no new hole solar roof mounts if you do an advanced search you can find lots of information. I did mine without any new holes in my roof, now that I have experience with my panels I think I might vary my approach when adding additional panels. See post #53 of this thread https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57437&highlight=holes+roof&page=6.

If I had used the tool I would have had to remove the dicor around the connector because 1 ear of each connection was roof side and no room for the tool. Lots more work and then would need dicor to put it back.

When I decide to add more panels I’ll get the tool and crimpers.

SSTraveler said:

Klipstr, I would love doing Solar installs in my spare time. I think it is fun doing a custom job each time. I learn something new every time and I wouldn't care if I got paid, it's just that fun for me! Have you installed a chassis battery trickle charger yet? You need one!

Click to expand...

Where are you in SC? I'm just outside Atlanta. I'm picking up my 2020 MB in a few weeks and would love your help.

I live about 3 hours east of Atlanta just off I-20, I'd love to help just drop me a message. I'm not for hire, I just like to help other DIYer reduce the learning curve. This Forum has lots to offer just perform some Advanced Searches (top right click on advanced search and enter key word) and you'll find most of the answers new Unity owners need.