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Old 01-10-2016, 12:44 AM   #21
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

Originally Posted by ECU View Post
That is why just the pictures don't quite work for me. Currently, I have aftermarkets with a steel spare. I have appropriate lugs for this setup. But I picked up some alloys and would like to know if the aftermarket lugs would work or not with the factory wheels.
Can you dry set the bolts that you have into the different wheels and get an idea? Viewing the bolts set into place from both sides should give a reasonable view of the fit. I can't say for certain, but there are likely a few standard options.

Maybe cut some cardboard as templates to compare the tapers?

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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 01-10-2016 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:15 PM   #22
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

Here are a few photos for all, and a rough estimated measurements, as I was using a Tailors tape for measuring and not a Caliper. These are from my T1N when I removed the 15" Mercedes Alloy's.

It's my understanding that the bolts are considered "acorn" or "mushroom" where they fit the Mercedes / Ronal rims. That bolt is 72 mm overall length and 51-52mm to the curved surface that sets in the rim. The mushroom section is 7-8mm. All measurements are plus or minus 1-2mm (maybe more)

see pictures. hope this information is helpful
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:51 AM   #23
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

Great discussion! I had noticed in my owner's manual that there was a difference in torque specified for steel vs. alloy wheels, but didn't realize the difference in length. Good to know!

On my 2015 RT SS Agile, all wheels, including the continental spare, are alloy so I guess I don't need to worry too much.

Here's a pic of one of the bolts from the spare (RV is now in winter storage)-- looks pretty much like derekhski's, about 52mm:
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Last edited by irvingj; 01-12-2016 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 01-17-2016, 01:18 PM   #24
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

While I understand the issue, what I can't understand is this is not a problem isolated to Sprinter models. MB just needed to have a common 'thread' length and longer/shorter unthreaded portion. This way the longer bolt would butt up to the drum/axle before it projected too far into the assembly (as it would simply come to the end of the threaded portion) the wheel bolt would be so obviously 'too long' and subsequently the wheel so ill fitting that it would signal incorrect bolt use.

But I suppose the majority of the driving/wheel changing public would not be savvy enough to realise this and carry on with their journey with a wheel wobbling like crazy.. Damage before safety - an odd outlook for the thinking man.

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Old 02-20-2016, 07:08 PM   #25
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

Is it safe to assume that this discussion is for the "2500" owners? Our "3500" has lug nuts not lug bolts and as far as I know there are no factory alloys available. The aftermarket Alcoa wheels are thicker but that is a different discussion.
Our old '85 VW Westfalia had bolts on the front and nuts on the back and to make it more interesting I had a set of 15" Audi alloy wheels and a steel spare. I carried a spare set of nuts and bolts to use if I ever needed the spare.
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:46 PM   #26
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

I always put a warning " BOLTS IN WITH JACK FOR SPARE WHEEL "note in a plastic zip lock and use a zip tie to attach to the bolt pattern on the spare tire.
Just in case someone changing the wheel on the side of the road isn't familiar with this situation.

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Old 03-20-2016, 11:56 PM   #27
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Question Re: Wheel bolts

Originally Posted by lindenengineering View Post
Please don't let this happen to you!
This exact thing just happened to me last week and I really wished I've known about this. When my 2006 T1N had a tread separation on a freeway, a roadside assistant came to help put on the spare. He drove all 5 lug bolts flush into the hub. Afterward the van would not move, as if the parking break was on.

I called the roadside assistance again to arranged for a flat bed tow truck. A nearby Dodge dealer do not fix Sprinter, so had to tow it to another shop. The mechanic said the right rear axle shaft have to be replaced, along with axle repair kit with bearing, parking brake shoe set with springs and hardware, brake disk rotors, brake pad set and brake pad sensor, and dust shield.

The estimate for the entire repair is $2500! Does that sound right?
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:29 AM   #28
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

This is good to know, I'm heading to the MB dealer in Phx next week anyway, I assume they have an inner wheel bolt set in their parts catalogue. It will go right into my tool kit!
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:35 AM   #29
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

Thinking more about this, my inner's are steel wheels, as are many of the "aluminum wheel" option Sprinters. So I would already have steel wheel bolts on the inside. But if I had to put the steel spare on the front, which obviously has an alloy wheel on it, I would need the steel wheel bolts. So one way or the other, if you have any alloy wheels you need a spare set of steel bolts.
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:56 AM   #30
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Default Re: Wheel bolts

You do NOT have this issue!
Your Sprinter is a 519/3500 series with the full floating rear axle (the axle just drives the rear wheel which has it's own bearing pressed and locked
onto the axle housing) so you have lug studs, which are pressed into the rear hubs which rotate on the rear hub bearings, not the rear axles.
You have dual rear wheels, but the studs pressed into the hub are long enough to accommodate both steel wheel or a pair of Alcoa Forged Aluminum wheels (so says Alcoa
since they changed their guidance on this a few years ago).
Your front wheels are mounted on the hub bearings and the hubs have the same studs pressed in as the rear hubs.
Only difference is how you install the off set on the wheels.
Fronts: offset goes in toward the center of the Sprinter.
Rear Inners: offset goes in toward the center of the Sprinter, same as the fronts.
Rear Outers: offset goes out so there is a separation between the inner wheels/tires and the outer wheels/tires.

319/2500 series Sprinters, like the one in life8dance's photo, with single rear wheels and much less load carrying capacity, DO NOT have the full floating axles but rather have bearings pressed right on the axles, which are then pushed/pressed into bores on the ends of the axle housing and retained by a bolted on cover/retainer.
This 319/2500 configuration DOES NOT incorporate dual rear wheels, and it becomes very important to have both types/lengths of lug bolts if you have
alloy or aftermarket wheels.
The short lug bolts are for the OEM steel wheels.....the longer lug bolts are for the OEM Alloy wheels. If you have aftermarket wheels, it's up
to the shop that fits them to get the correct length lug bolts, and provide you with the short ones so you can replace a blown/flat tire on the side of the
Hope this helps,
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Last edited by sailquik; 04-15-2016 at 03:09 AM.
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