Overland Build

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I finally figured out why the fridge would randomly short cycle.

It was the second fan I installed to vent the cabinet. Specifically, the fan was getting jammed by the power wires for the fridge. In order to allow removal the harness is about 24" long, and gets pushed behind the fridge during installation. Over time it was migrating back, and stopping the fan blades. This would result in a fan driver overcurrent error. The fridge would shut down, and restart about a minute later, only to repeat the process every 10 minutes or so.

The mods to the fridge are working well. The freezer now stays where I set it (about 17F currently), and the fridge compartment has been hanging in the mid 30s. The down side is that power consumption is back to pre SEC controller levels. Thats expected, with the freezer actually being a freezer now (ice cream anyone?).

The half-assed repair of the Espar hydronic has failed. I am getting a error 32, which is "fan short circuit". Either than fan motors windings have melted, or my wiring splice has. The fan does not move when I blow air through the exhaust (the other one did), so I am assuming the motor is gone. Of course parts are tough to find for the newest model... Hopefully I can find something reasonably priced. The other option is to refurb the motor I took off.. :thinking: For now I have just been using the engine to heat the water when we drive. I need to reset the overtemp switch so I can use the 120V option.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Still rocking the van across Oz. No major problems to report, but a few minor issues that need addressing.


The replacement Frankenstein shifter assembly has started to act up. Very randomly it will not communicate with the rest of the van. If this happens while I am in Park, I cannot leave park without manually bypassing the shift interlock. A restart fixes it. :idunno: Just an annoyance.

We recently started smelling some exhaust in the van, at first it was just a whiff. This was probably a few thousand miles ago. A few days ago, it was very noticeable with the AC on recirculate. It was obviously not pure exhaust form the smell. I was fairly certain it was injector seal leakage.

So in a free camp near Hervey Bay, I pulled the injector cover.

Low and Behold, #1 was leaking.
IMG_20171005_154356 by J Luth, on Flickr

IMG_20171005_162326 by J Luth, on Flickr


IMG_20171005_162330 by J Luth, on Flickr

The compression pop out trick didn't work, as the black gunk hadn't sealed the bore. I was able to work it out with some vice grips.

Being a good sprinter owner, I have spare bolts and seals. I cleaned it up as best I could, and blew it all out with compressed air. The seal showed signs of corrosion, which I am certain is from water and salt getting under the cover.

It didn't leak after the replacement, but I will check again in a few hundred miles.
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
Not exactly Sprinter related, but I'm curious if you could share some info on your computing setup in the van.

One laptop or two? Any external storage? Do you have a strategy for backups? Have you implemented anything to reduce the risk of or mitigate the impact of theft (both the loss of hardware and of the irreplacable data stored on it)?

Have you tracked your typical Ah consumption for computer use? Do you charge devices using their AC adapters powered by the inverter, or with a 12V car adapter?

Do you have a printer, scanner, or other peripherials? If not, do you miss any of those capabilities?

How and what people use computers for is a very individual matter so I understand why these details are commonly left out from both travelogues and van build threads, but I think it could be instructive to read about others' setups..
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Not exactly Sprinter related, but I'm curious if you could share some info on your computing setup in the van.

One laptop or two? Any external storage? Do you have a strategy for backups? Have you implemented anything to reduce the risk of or mitigate the impact of theft (both the loss of hardware and of the irreplacable data stored on it)?

Have you tracked your typical Ah consumption for computer use? Do you charge devices using their AC adapters powered by the inverter, or with a 12V car adapter?

Do you have a printer, scanner, or other peripherials? If not, do you miss any of those capabilities?

How and what people use computers for is a very individual matter so I understand why these details are commonly left out from both travelogues and van build threads, but I think it could be instructive to read about others' setups..

We have a fairly elaborate electronics/computing setup. At least compared to your average traveler.

To start with we have two laptops. Good internet is rare enough, and we each have preferences in how we set them up. Jen has a 17” dell desktop replacement. I7 processor, 16gb ram, 500GB SSD. Pretty good performance, assuming windows doesn’t do its usual… I use a Lenovo thinkpad 11E. Designed for educational use, its light, cheap, and durable. The most recent generation of Atom processors, combined with a 120GB SSD and 8gb of RAM make it a pleasure to use. It also plays most any game released before 2007, which is nice.

We have a in-van home network. Based on a ASUS home router, it is running Tomato firmware. I have used DD WRT in the past, but had stability issues. The Tomato firmware supports network attached storage via its USB ports. For storage we have a pair of 1TB external HDDs. One of them is always connected to the router. When powered on the router boots in less than a minute and auto-mounts the external drive, sharing it to the network.

We have a TV/monitor mounted at the foot of the bed. It is on a swivel arm, so it can be moved for viewing from the front of the van. It is connected to an Intel NUC PC. The Nuc has 4gb of ram, an intel I5 processor, and a 40GB SSD. A built in IR port allows remote control. This PC is dual booting into either KODI (XBMC) on Ubuntu or Windows 10. The default is KODI. We have an older Logitech Harmony remote. It is programmed to control KODI, the TV, Maxxfan, and AC unit.


As far as data storage and backup goes. I have worked in IT previously, and I have seen what a lack of backups can do… We keep critical data in the cloud when possible. This includes documents etc. Dropbox keeps it synced between devices. Photos and videos are copied to one of the external HDDs. We regularly backup the contents to the second drive. When we have access to the internet, we also backup photos to cloud services such as Flickr and Google photos. My phone auto uploads any photos taken on it. If the van were to burn down we would loose a fair number of photos/videos. I have backups of anything more than a year old on HDD in the USA, and most other data is stored in the cloud. Theft of any single device would mean the loss of a few weeks of photos at most. The rest of our data is safe though. With HDDs costing less than $50 per TB, there is no reason not to have backups scattered about. Buy a cheap HDD, back your data up on it, and stick it in a safety deposit box. Or buy two of them, and mail them to family/friends for safekeeping.

As far as theft goes, our drives are located in different places, it would be a challenge for a thief to find them both in a short period. The laptops are also located out of sight. Luck aside, it would take a thorough searching of the van to located them both.

All these devices are 12V native, or have 12v power supplies. The NUC can use anything from 10-22V, the router is about the same. The TV is good from 10.5-16V. The laptops use 12V to 20v adapters.

Power consumption is pretty low. The router uses about 6W, The TV uses about 20W, Nuc between 10-30W depending on load. My laptop is about 20W average, while the Dell is about 30W. Surprisingly they will all run on less than 100W. The most I have seen at once is about 9A. Just the NUC+TV+ROUTER uses about 3A or 36W. I have tracked the AH consumption in detail. I would estimate that the worst case is less than 50AH a day, often about half that when we are outside a lot. LED backlighting and smaller microprocessors have made electronics very efficient.

Jen has a NEAT scanner she got as a gift. Its a bit bulky... But it does the job. Personally I have not need for a scanner. We also have a portable-ish inkjet printer. Its quite small, and allows us to print if we really need to. Honestly we almost never need to print anything these days. An exception was when we were traveling in mexico and central america. Most border crossings required multiple copies of documents, passports, etc. Even before we started living in the Sprinter, we didn’t have a working printer. In the rare event we needed one (Oklahoma gov is pretty backwards) we printed it at work. Since we arrived in Aus, we have needed to print something exactly once. This was in Tasmania, the Police said we needed a front license plate. So we took a photo with our Nexus phone, sent it to a print shop, and they printed/laminated it for $12. A couple pieces of VHB, and it was done.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
A update on the Espar Heater(s) saga.

The D5 had stopped worked a few days after I replaced the fan motor with an older model unit. I thought maybe the fan had burned up (not likely) I had code 32, which is fan short circuit. Upon taking the unit apart I found I had pinched one of the fan wires. I repaired the wire, and now the heater works as intended.

However, now the EST throws a NO SIGNAL error on the D5 within seconds of startup. Interestingly, if I turn the EST off (not reset) It will resume communication with the D5 after a few minutes. The D5 will run normally with the switch-on (yellow) wire powered, os the D5 is working properly.

Hopefully this just means that the EST has finally shown its true colors. So I have ordered a new EST from Heatso.

The D2 continues its random NO SIGNAL errors, these require resetting the EST. :bash: I also believe that the EST is at fault.

-------------------------------------------------

I have been tracing a few leaks in the boost system. Unable to find the 2 pinhole leaks, I gave in and replaced the resonator with my mercedes OEM, and the intercooler hose with a spare. No oil spray thus far...

-------------------------------------------------------

I think we have finally got the Fridge and SEC working properly. Here is a brief list of the the faults (mostly my error).

Fridge thawing due to energy saving mode. Fixed by switching to freezer mode, and moving probe to freezer.

Fan stopped by loose wiring harness. Secured harness to fix.

Short cycling due to low voltage. Fixed by replacing spade terminals with good ones, and by securing harness to prevent bending.

The freezer now stays well below freezing all the time. The fridge varies from 41 to 31 degrees in most weather. In very hot, or very cold weather I need to adjust the thermostat some. The freezer still stays frozen though. Power usage is still quite low. I have not tried using the "overcool" feature in freezer control mode, as I suspect it will freeze the upper parts of the fridge.
 
Last edited:

HarryN

Well-known member
Great field diagnostic and repair work.

No matter how careful a person is, it is really challenging to completely avoid pinched wires, especially for items that are designed to be maintained.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Final resolution (hopefully) with the Espar Saga. I replaced the EST unit with a new one from Heatso. All problems have ceased. Time will tell, as the mountains of NZ do get quite chilly.


We have delivered the van to the port, and it will be on a ship to NZ on the 3rd (hopefully).

Some notes about NZ. They will not let us drive the van until it has been inspected and deemed roadworthy. Because it is over 3500kg GVWR, it has to get a Certificate of Fitness (CoF) which is more expensive than the Warrant of Fittness for lighter vehicles. It needs to be weighed, and load capacity placarded, etc. We also get to pay a nice accident compensation fee (government insurance). We don't have to pay for registration (still registered in the USA).

This all means we need to truck the van from the port to a Entry Certifier for inspection. The rules are fairly long, but mostly cover basic things. Windshield wipers, windshield condition, lights, body rust, tires, brakes etc.

One of the issues I noticed was the number of cracks on our original windshield. Amazingly it has survived 140k miles and 13 years. Aus has put a few cracks and chips in it. None of them in the drivers field of view, and all had been stabilized with resin kits. No matter to NZ though, as they don't allow any visible cracks over 100mm!

So we used our insurances glass replacement option (100AUD deductible).

I have read the horror stories about rust after glass replacement, so I did a split job, with removal and install a couple days apart so that I could fix any paint damage. I went with a major company (not the cheapest by far). We lucked out, as the guys were long term glass installers and were quick and efficient. Despite this they nicked the paint in several spots, including a 12" cut with a razor knife. All of these were under the windshield or seal.

Our van had the beginnings of seam rust at both top corners, and on bottom corner. The crap factory primer had let the sealer pull away allowing a small crack for water.

IMG_20171122_141611 by J Luth, on Flickr

IMG_20171122_140722 by J Luth, on Flickr


The crap factory paint is also obvious in how some of the sealant opted to pull off a layer of paint instead of tear!


I cut out the sealer to fresh metal, and converted, primed and painted. I also painted all of the area between the edge of visible paint and the sealant line. Not a terrible job. In a few more years the rust (even with the original windshield) would have started to bubble and spread on the seams.

Here is the new windshield installed. It doesn't sit as flush on the bottom as the factory one, but it is fine with me. This way there is a small gap at the bottom corners of the seals, so I can flush or blow out crap, and water will drain easily.

IMG_20171124_140527 by J Luth, on Flickr

I am considering running a bead of sealant over the top edge to keep crap and water out and encourace water to run over the windscreen instead of under the seal.

I used a urethane product to refill the seams. I don't have any blue Monstaliner lying around, so it will have to wait until we are back in the states for a touch up.


It is REALLY nice having a fresh, clean, non-sandblasted windshield. It wipes clean easy, and there is much less glare.
 
Last edited:

theDangerz

http://www.ZENVANZ.com
We have a fairly elaborate electronics/computing setup. At least compared to your average traveler.

An exception was when we were traveling in mexico and central america. Most border crossings required multiple copies of documents, passports, etc. Even before we started living in the Sprinter, we didn’t have a working printer. In the rare event we needed one (Oklahoma gov is pretty backwards) we printed it at work. Since we arrived in Aus, we have needed to print something exactly once. This was in Tasmania, the Police said we needed a front license plate. So we took a photo with our Nexus phone, sent it to a print shop, and they printed/laminated it for $12. A couple pieces of VHB, and it was done.
HA!
Fun trip down memory lane.
We vowed on our next trip south to carry a small printer and i would often daydream while standing in line at border crossings of simply having a battery powered scanner/printer in-hand so when we would get the "get copies and come back" routine one of us could stall with a confused look while the other scanned/printed and quickly handed them back over.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
HA!
Fun trip down memory lane.
We vowed on our next trip south to carry a small printer and i would often daydream while standing in line at border crossings of simply having a battery powered scanner/printer in-hand so when we would get the "get copies and come back" routine one of us could stall with a confused look while the other scanned/printed and quickly handed them back over.
Our Cannon pixma is pretty small, and it will run on 20v from a laptop adapter (not quite battery powered). Its about the size of a loaf of bread. It is still an inkjet though, so not cheap per page, but cheaper than the border copy people!


Several times we were asked for 3-4 copies of some random document, only to receive three of them back! WTF?
 

theDangerz

http://www.ZENVANZ.com
Our Cannon pixma is pretty small, and it will run on 20v from a laptop adapter (not quite battery powered). Its about the size of a loaf of bread. It is still an inkjet though, so not cheap per page, but cheaper than the border copy people!


Several times we were asked for 3-4 copies of some random document, only to receive three of them back! WTF?
All part of the border crossing fun! ;)
I swear it’s a skillset all to itself.

We photoshopped docs, used fake licenses, rode expired Canada plates (with US passports) a year after expiration, swapped plates in between borders with a machine gun wielding patrol watching and even snuck karma out of El Salvador by sneaking her from back to front of the bus while the guard walked from one door to the other... then we get back to the states and have to try and somehow remind ourselves that rules actually apply...
Ah, good times!! :crazy:
 

sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
I also have the water filters on order. I decided on a 20 micron pre-filter for water going into the tank (pressurized hose screw on filter), a 5 micron sediment filter, and a 0.5 micron carbon block final filter. This should remove all particulates and most microbes. It also removes a decent amount of chlorine. Links are posted below for those interested.

http://amzn.to/1NpDTrY 0.5 micron
http://amzn.to/1NpDZ2R 5 micron
http://amzn.to/1NpE1I3 20 micron
http://amzn.to/1QfwZdZ Filter housing
I'm curious how these have worked out, and if you have any photos of them installed?

Would you bother with filters if doing a build again?
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I'm curious how these have worked out, and if you have any photos of them installed?

Would you bother with filters if doing a build again?

I have had good luck with my filters. I currently have a 10 (or 20) micron pleated paper filter, and a 0.5 micron carbon block filter. The primary filter doesn't often catch much sediment on city water, but well/bore water is a whole different story. I have filled up several times and found several grams of particulate in the paper primary filter. That is enough to cut the water flow down a bunch with a low area filter like the carbon unit.

The taste improvement is subjective, but here is an example of the carbon taste/microbe filter's effectiveness. After about a month of non-city and bore water in the outback, I noticed a bit of an odd taste/smell to the water. Not huge, but it was noticeable. The water I was filling with was often not chlorinated, so there was no residual 4ppm chlorine to keep the microbial growth down. I never noticed the lack of chlorine, because the filter does a good job of removing the low level stuff.

I decided to check the water filters for contamination. I found that my cellulose 5 micron foam/block primary filter (has changed since) was almost a petri dish! The main tank also had some minor build up (it is HDPE, so its pretty resistant). The carbon block filter had a minor amount of buildup on its surface. Everything downstream of the carbon filter was clear of buildup. So the carbon filter did its job, and despite the growth, the carbon filter scrubbed most of the taste/smell out. I replaced the filters, and ran a half cup of bleach through the tank before I refilled it, and the problem was gone.

The other advantage to the 10" standard filter (10" is the housing length), is that they are available most anywhere at reasonable cost. Even in Oz the local home stores often had them.


If you always use know good water sources, like city water fills, then you only need a basic mesh screen before your pump, no other filter is needed. If you fill from unknown quality potable sources, I would suggest a 5-10 micron filter, just to keep fine sediment down. This can be a filter on your fill hose if desired. If you have taste or microbial concerns, a 0.5 or lower rating unit is a place to start, but there are lots of options, all the way to full osmosis machines. Take a look at this thread for some varied and in depth discussion of filtration.

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/82484-Water-purifying/page3

There are some photos of the filters mounted below. It is a bit of a pain to get to them, as I have to remove the kayak and pull the drawer out. I just time my maintenance with the removal of the stuff for shipping/cleaning.


......

The water filters are hooked up and I pressure tested the water system. No leaks after a 2 hours pressurized. I made a guard for the pressure release buttons; I will be making another for the filter bowls.









The shurflow pump is very quiet and with the mounting/hose provisions used, no noticeable vibration or pulsing is present in the lines. I filled the water tank to ¼ no leaks, and the gauge works.

Due to the chance of freezing I purged the system. This is done by opening the dump valve on the water heater and letting the pump run. Because the pump is a diaphragm type it will pump air into the lines. I then opening the faucet/shower and allowed the remaining water to clear. At this point I removed and dumped the filter bowls.

Some of the coolant lines for the Hydronic D5/water heater/engine loop are run.





I have recieved the led lights for the main cabin. I also have led strips and diffusers on order for task lighting and exterior lighting. I should get those around new years.
 
Last edited:

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Hey there folks. We are still roaming about. Now we are in New Zealand. Check out the adventure thread here.

We removed the marine AC unit and stored in while we are in NZ. The exterior fans were on their way out, and we won't be needing it here. The extra storage is much appreciated.

I have been considering my options, and I may replace it with a native 12v unit in the future, or modify it to use a normal air cooled condenser.

In order to comply with NZs self contained rules, we picked up a compact portable toilet, and installed a 25mm ID drain and valve on our gray tank. A 3 meter 25mm ID hose with camlock fitting is also used.

IMG_20171216_160931 by J Luth, on Flickr

IMG_20171216_155630 by J Luth, on Flickr

At some point I think I will remake the grey tank to make complete draining easier.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Hey folks, still rocking across NZ.

We recently started having issues with our Maxxfan. The lift motor stopped working (would jam during lift operations. I removed the motor and inspected the gearbox. The tin gears sit in tiny plastic bearings formed into the case, they stack up, so any free play causes binding in one direction. Crap design in my opinion. Our fan has seen daily use for over 2 years. When we live in the van, it gets open/closed 3-5 times a day, sometimes more.

Anyways, I just removed one gear and started open/closing it manually.

About 2 weeks later, the keypad (buttons) stopped working (half of them as least). A crack had formed in the silver trace. Not repairable... Thankfully we have a remote, so we can still use the fan.


Today, after several false starts, I was able to contact the technicians service line for Airxcel (makers of maxfan). They were able to order the parts I needed, and ship them to a friend who is coming to NZ in a few weeks.

They sent them to me FREE OF CHARGE. Our fan is almost three years old. :thumbup: The design isn't ideal, but their customer service was great (once I got a hold of them!)



Our maxfan has an annoying resonance issue in most of the lower speeds. It comes and goes. I am going to try and wire a large capacitor across the main power relay (before the reversing relay). My thought, it that damping the current fluctuations caused by the PWM speed signal will reduce the tendency to resonate under load. :thinking:


Our sprinter is starting to show its age in the rubber parts. A seep at the right rear axle seal (mostly stopped now thankfully) and several pinhole leaks in the charge air hoses. I have replaced the passenger side hoses, and that area is now oil free! The drivers side has a leak somewhere around the charge air temp sensor. I will replace the entire hose assembly with my spare at some point. 14 years and 150k miles is pretty good life for one of these hoses I think.

Of course, this means that all the coolant hoses will be getting replaced, along with the water pump at the next major maintenance when we are back in the USA. Probably around 170k miles or so.
 
Last edited:

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Surprise! We lost two tires within 100km of each other! RIP BFG KO2.

IMG_20180225_123017 by J Luth, on Flickr

These tires were basically worn out tread wise, but let this be a lesson to you. Air down or slow down when driving on bad roads, especially ones with large rocks. I am certain that many hundreds of km on these roads contributed to the failure of our tires. We were driving at 100km/hr on a good paved road when these tires went. More details in our Exploring NZ thread

Both failed in the same way (both on the rear). The centerline inner belt broke, the tread and outer ply ruptured. The tires still held air, but much longer at speed and we would have had some body damage from the flailing tread.
 

danpaul000

A man, a van, no plan
Surprise! We lost two tires within 100km of each other! RIP BFG KO2.

IMG_20180225_123017 by J Luth, on Flickr

These tires were basically worn out tread wise, but let this be a lesson to you. Air down or slow down when driving on bad roads, especially ones with large rocks. I am certain that many hundreds of km on these roads contributed to the failure of our tires. We were driving at 100km/hr on a good paved road when these tires went. More details in our Exploring NZ thread

Both failed in the same way (both on the rear). The centerline inner belt broke, the tread and outer ply ruptured. The tires still held air, but much longer at speed and we would have had some body damage from the flailing tread.
Glad you're alright, that they didn't blow out. That tread looks pretty well used, how many miles did you get in those tires? I just put on a set of the same KO2s, but only have a few thousand miles on them so far.

Happy travels.
Dan

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Those tires were abused and used hard. We got least 40,000 miles from a 5 tire rotation, probably more. I am satisfied with them.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
It has been some time since we started down the conversion road. We (Jen) finally got around to making an accurate accounting of our conversions cost.

I have attached a spreadsheet with all the conversion related items listed. The total cost was $28,300.55USD.

This figure does not include the purchase cost of the van or any maintenance related costs. Non permanently attached gear is not included. It does include basically everything we spent on, or put into the van related to the conversion. This includes our fancy front seats, exterior paint, windows, etc.

The top 6 line items account for $13,298USD, and are as follows. These areas could definately be trimmed quite a bit for the budget restricted, probably to the tune of about $7,000 in savings, while still having a functional, albeit lower spec, van.

Front seats $3,478.00
solar/inv parts $2,719.99
awning $2,299.00
Espar heater kit $2,175.00
aux batteries $1,415.78
windows $1,210.45

We purchased our van for $11,000USD, so our total (minus maint items) is $39,000USD.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Reliability update on the Vancompass front add-a-shock kit.

After breaking several front sway bar down links, I lowered the shocks to the lowest setting. Despite this I broke one. So I added a weld bead to the links, which fixed them.

I noticed some knocking when going over sudden bumps at speed. After looking about I saw "smoking" marks around the upper add-on shock bracket. Low and behold, the upper self threading bolt was long gone, and both lower bolts were loose.

I checked the other side, and I have a 1" hole in the inner fender due to the wallowing caused by the lower inner bolt. Plenty of wallowing on the other bolts, and the bracket has a small crack and some bending at one weld.

I have removed the shocks, but they are not usable as is. The brackets would need to be welded in, or a large upper through bolt fitted. I doubt a rivnut would be strong enough, so a blind fastner would be required, or a 3/4" access hole drilled from near the driver/passenger feet.

I really like the handling the front add-on shocks allows, but at the valving they have, the mounting provisions are totally inadequate.

My conclusion, do not use this kit unless you plan on very low damping ratios, or modifying the parts.


I have been mulling the idea of removing the front sway bar, and making a short linkage for the front add-on shock (parallel 4 bar linkage) With good damping ratios this allows, the sway bar does not help, and just reduces front articulation.


My battery bank has gradual shown lower resting voltages. (about 0.1-0.2V lower than expected) I am certain it is getting fully charged, as I monitor return current during absorb. I need to check a few things more closely, but it may be time of a de-sulfation, or recovery charge. The challenge is that this requires a closely controlled high voltage charge source. Something near 15.5V would be ideal. Battery temp needs to be monitored, and all the accessories disconnected for safety.

Edit: After some reading I decided to try equalizing with my solar charger. So I set an equalize cycle for 4 hours at 15.4V with a 1 day recycle. Hopefully it will get to that point in the next few days, and I can remove the equalize parameter.
 
Last edited:

Top Bottom