So is this new "Digi Controller" the current offering for a D2 install? Does it replace the "Easy Start" (which frankly didn't sound very easy anyway) I've been following this thread for a while and now ready to purchase one and install it but have become confused about what to shop for.
Espar Underseat Installation
- Thread starter bhenrich
- Start date
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
The standard offering in Europe is the easystart select, or the easystart timer. Both have the same wiring. The digo controllers are a throwback used by espar North America only.
GeorgeRa
2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
I have the Digimax installed with my Aitronics D2 and used EasyStartTtimer with Hydronic D5. Digimax is old generation and EasyStartXXXs are new. DigiMax is very simple to operate, old fashion entry to diagnostic requires clip push the reset switch.
EasyStart requires longer learning, but really, a couple of minutes. So, there is nothing wrong with MS DOS, right.
At some point my plan is to use EsyStartTimer for both units, just need some free time, it is not on the priority list.
EasyStart requires longer learning, but really, a couple of minutes. So, there is nothing wrong with MS DOS, right.
At some point my plan is to use EsyStartTimer for both units, just need some free time, it is not on the priority list.
ranchworld
'06 158 2500 Passenger
Espar 90 degree outlet hood
I just finished my D2 install. The kit came from Heatso. I have a T1N so there is a very small area to mount the heater under the seat because of the van layout under the floor. I wanted to avoid complex bends in the duct work. Searching around online I found another English company, "Butler Technik" that had a great assortment of fittings. They had a "Heater outlet hood 90 deg 60mm" that snapped in place of the stock D2 funnel shaped outlet. Now I could point the air flow up, down, left or right. It made for a nice clean installation. I also got a 90 degree bend from them. Be careful if you order these, they come in different duct sizes. My kit uses 60mm duct.
The "Heater outlet hood 90 deg 60mm" is Eberspacher part # 22.1000.01.00.20
The 60mm 90 degree bend is Eberspacher part #25.1688.89.00.01
I just finished my D2 install. The kit came from Heatso. I have a T1N so there is a very small area to mount the heater under the seat because of the van layout under the floor. I wanted to avoid complex bends in the duct work. Searching around online I found another English company, "Butler Technik" that had a great assortment of fittings. They had a "Heater outlet hood 90 deg 60mm" that snapped in place of the stock D2 funnel shaped outlet. Now I could point the air flow up, down, left or right. It made for a nice clean installation. I also got a 90 degree bend from them. Be careful if you order these, they come in different duct sizes. My kit uses 60mm duct.
The "Heater outlet hood 90 deg 60mm" is Eberspacher part # 22.1000.01.00.20
The 60mm 90 degree bend is Eberspacher part #25.1688.89.00.01
ranchworld
'06 158 2500 Passenger
Easystart simple schematic
I have a 158" wheelbase T1N. The D2 is mounted under the passenger seat and the controls are going to be on the upper cabinets at the rear drivers side. That's a long way in my van! The wiring harness that came with my kit from Heatso was about 6' too short. Looking around my shop for some small color coded wire to extend the harness I realized some of the wires in the harness were not needed. I had been using sprint2freedom's excellent schematic;
View attachment eberspacher-easystart-select-hak-combined-schematic.pdf
Before the wirecutters came out I really read the schematic, rather than just looking at it. I am using an Easystart Timer, an Altitude Kit and an External Temp Sensor. It turns out that there is only one wire, the Blue-White wire connecting the D2 to the Altitude Kit and then to the Easystart. I cut away all the other wires, leaving the Green-Red and Brown to the pump and the Grey-Red, Brown-White and Grey for the Temp Sensor. Now I have a bucket of spare wire!
I am mounting the controls temporarily to a scrap of plywood till I build my cabinets. The wire run through small holes in the ply. It did not make sense to me to use the kit connectors, way to big to fit through the holes and I would have to take them apart and put them back together when the final cabinets are done. Anyway, there is only one wire and the positive / negative power connection. I used WAGO 221 connectors instead.
Here is a super simple schematic showing the D2, Easystart Timer, Altitude Kit and Temp Sensor. The Easystart Select also only needs the one wire. I did run a 20 amp circuit from my fuse panel to the D2 and a separate 5 amp circuit to the Easystart and Altitude Kit. The schematic lists pin numbers if you use the kit connectors and wire colors if you do it with WAGO's or some other simple system.
View attachment Easystart, D2, Altitude,Temp simple schematic.pdf
I have a 158" wheelbase T1N. The D2 is mounted under the passenger seat and the controls are going to be on the upper cabinets at the rear drivers side. That's a long way in my van! The wiring harness that came with my kit from Heatso was about 6' too short. Looking around my shop for some small color coded wire to extend the harness I realized some of the wires in the harness were not needed. I had been using sprint2freedom's excellent schematic;
View attachment eberspacher-easystart-select-hak-combined-schematic.pdf
Before the wirecutters came out I really read the schematic, rather than just looking at it. I am using an Easystart Timer, an Altitude Kit and an External Temp Sensor. It turns out that there is only one wire, the Blue-White wire connecting the D2 to the Altitude Kit and then to the Easystart. I cut away all the other wires, leaving the Green-Red and Brown to the pump and the Grey-Red, Brown-White and Grey for the Temp Sensor. Now I have a bucket of spare wire!
I am mounting the controls temporarily to a scrap of plywood till I build my cabinets. The wire run through small holes in the ply. It did not make sense to me to use the kit connectors, way to big to fit through the holes and I would have to take them apart and put them back together when the final cabinets are done. Anyway, there is only one wire and the positive / negative power connection. I used WAGO 221 connectors instead.
Here is a super simple schematic showing the D2, Easystart Timer, Altitude Kit and Temp Sensor. The Easystart Select also only needs the one wire. I did run a 20 amp circuit from my fuse panel to the D2 and a separate 5 amp circuit to the Easystart and Altitude Kit. The schematic lists pin numbers if you use the kit connectors and wire colors if you do it with WAGO's or some other simple system.
View attachment Easystart, D2, Altitude,Temp simple schematic.pdf
Looking at the Heatso website, the list a D2 "Sprinter Kit" (latest version). They don't really elaborate on what difference there is. On the main heater page it lists at $1069.22. When I click on the item to have a closer look, the price jumps to $1148.43. Anyone have a clue what the Sprinter kit entails?
ranchworld
'06 158 2500 Passenger
It looks like the kit includes a "300mm standpipe". You would only need this if you are going to drop your fuel tank and install a new standpipe. Depends on your rig and it's options. If you have an auxiliary fuel tap from the factory (most NCV3's) you will not need the standpipe. I sent a few emails back and forth to heatso asking questions before I ordered my kit. They were very responsive. I think the price difference between pages is caused by the item page price being updated in real time for exchange rates... My experience with Heatso was very good with the kit arriving in 2 days!
HAK and 801 Controller
A quick history on my D2 Furnace
Bought from Heatso and installed myself in 2016
The website isn't the greatest for info so chose the 801 Controller at that time they didn't warn about not being compatible with HAK
Everything worked great till I realized I needed the HAK for winter Mountain Collective trip
Bought the HAK last spring and didn't install till late fall
Followed some guys Van blog install instructions for HAK with 801
He has since deleted his wiring diagram because its wrong.
With his wiring the heater would always run full blast.
I have gone back to just the 801 without HAK and everything is working fine.
Every search I do comes up with new easy start controller
Can someone talk me thru the install
I understand about putting in SPDT switch on blue and white wire
I read that one side of the HAK wiring harness doesn't need to be used at all that its just for 7 day timer
Thanks Blair
A quick history on my D2 Furnace
Bought from Heatso and installed myself in 2016
The website isn't the greatest for info so chose the 801 Controller at that time they didn't warn about not being compatible with HAK
Everything worked great till I realized I needed the HAK for winter Mountain Collective trip
Bought the HAK last spring and didn't install till late fall
Followed some guys Van blog install instructions for HAK with 801
He has since deleted his wiring diagram because its wrong.
With his wiring the heater would always run full blast.
I have gone back to just the 801 without HAK and everything is working fine.
Every search I do comes up with new easy start controller
Can someone talk me thru the install
I understand about putting in SPDT switch on blue and white wire
I read that one side of the HAK wiring harness doesn't need to be used at all that its just for 7 day timer
Thanks Blair
rollerbearing
Well-known member
Thank JFloFoto for this updated schematic
Just heard back from Ray Lawrence at Espar Parts of MI. He says the standard pump is the correct pump when using the HAK. He also included an updated schematic to insure the HA sensor is wired correctly.
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rollerbearing
Well-known member
Double check me because I may be wrong and I dont have an 801. But the letonkinoisvarnish site shows the exact same wire loom color coding for the 801 as the D1000 has in the above schematic. I am making the assumption that they will connect in the same manner.
https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/eberspacher_control_1.html
Thought it might help.
https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/eberspacher_control_1.html
Thought it might help.
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
Yeah digi controllers should wire up the same.
Its time to think of the heating systems again!
I really appreciate this thread ! About to order a D2 but one question? I have not heard about maintenance issues regarding the underseat placement, are you taking the seat off 1 or 2 times a year to address the cleaning of the filter and such?
I really appreciate this thread ! About to order a D2 but one question? I have not heard about maintenance issues regarding the underseat placement, are you taking the seat off 1 or 2 times a year to address the cleaning of the filter and such?
I've scanned a number of threads, including this one, but haven't gotten a solid answer yet.
Does the Espar D4 fit under the factory (low) swivel passenger seat base?
I ordered the D2, but plan on installing it so that I would be able to retrofit a D4 if the D2 isn't enough.
Thank you in advance!
Does the Espar D4 fit under the factory (low) swivel passenger seat base?
I ordered the D2, but plan on installing it so that I would be able to retrofit a D4 if the D2 isn't enough.
Thank you in advance!
sprinterPaul
Well-known member
The d4 is 14.8" long. And you need room for the hood and hose (even a straight shot).
The D2 is just over 12" long. Here is what it looks like in the lower base.
You might have more room at an angle. But it is quite possible you will run into the frame rail below.
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