If you've ever lost your key...

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
I was doing this mod on a friend's sprinter and figured i would take some more photos of the fob dissasembly. One is of the fob compared to the new key. Notice the black tape holding the fob together-its seen better days! In another photo you can see the way the chip is held in place with the white plastic piece. On some fobs the chip is glued in. On others the white piece holds it in place. If you carefully dissasemble the fob, remove the chip and then reassemble the fob, it still functions normally. You just now have the option of making your own spare keys, sans fob (as long as you followed the instructions in the first post of this thread).
Edit- Daveisdave made a good point that I forgot to mention- on *some* sprinters (like Daveisdave's) you will need to file down the part of the new key you hold with your thumb and finger. For some reason, the key won't seat deep enough in the ignition. I don't have a photo of any of the keys I've had to file down, but you can see on the original key that the flat shaft between the black fob and the cut part is a slight bit longer than the flat part on the new key. I'll try to find someone who I have had to file down their key and post a photo of it.
 

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davisdave

2005 140 tall passenger
another option may be to get the GDE tune with immobilizer elimination. Kill two birds with one stone:cheers: I have had it for a few weeks now without problem. I had gotten a chipless "lockout" key a while ago. It worked for the doors, but not the ignition:idunno: I finally went back to the locksmith and he filed the big end to clear the ignition keyhole surround:bash: I see now in your pics that when you remove the transponder coil, the chipless key will work without modification.
 

davisdave

2005 140 tall passenger
Here is a pic of the filed key. This allows the key to go all the way into the ignition slot...the transponder coil ring will hit the big end if not filed...or move/remove the ring.

filed key.jpg
 
Here is a pic of the filed key. This allows the key to go all the way into the ignition slot...the transponder coil ring will hit the big end if not filed...or move/remove the ring.

View attachment 58895
I am a bit confused by ALL of this? Can I just file down the shoulder of my chipless key and it will start with NO other mods? Can I just un-plug the black box and it will start? Please advise????
 

davisdave

2005 140 tall passenger
Can I just file down the shoulder of my chipless key and it will start with NO other mods? Can I just un-plug the black box and it will start?
No:frown: There are two different mods described here. You can remove the rfid tag from a key fob and attach it to the rfid coil ring (FREE), OR, you get the GDE tune with immobilizer elimination ($$$) and it will start with the chipless key.
 
Now you can use the cheap keys all day no prob. And for added security I installed an aftermarket viper to remote start with starter disable


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Michael34

New member
Great ideal mine is a o7 i have 1 key that opens door but does not start and 1 key that opens door manually and will start, but does not open locks with remote ? Not sure what to do ? Thank-you for your time!!
 

220629

Well-known member
Getting back to the gluing of the chip trick.

Does anyone have any experience with gluing a chip in and then still using a chipped key which is programmed to the Sprinter (as opposed to a door only conventional key)?

The reason I ask.
There have been comments that two chipped keys on a key ring can sometimes interfere with key chip recognition. There may be times a chipped key would still be used eg. - Remote Fob key with chip still in place.

vic
 

bcman

Active member
I was doing this mod on a friend's sprinter and figured i would take some more photos of the fob dissasembly. One is of the fob compared to the new key. Notice the black tape holding the fob together-its seen better days! In another photo you can see the way the chip is held in place with the white plastic piece. On some fobs the chip is glued in. On others the white piece holds it in place. If you carefully dissasemble the fob, remove the chip and then reassemble the fob, it still functions normally. You just now have the option of making your own spare keys, sans fob (as long as you followed the instructions in the first post of this thread).
Type2Teach, do you have any tips for disassembling the key fob? I've gotten the battery cover off no problem, but the rest of the case feels pretty solidly secured. I don't want to completely destroy my last OEM key.
 

Burza

Member
I dont know if my one and only key fob is my current problem. I was able to start the van to make sure the new lamps I installed worked. When I came back out to the van to go for drive, it would not start. acted a bit like battery was low. I checked and VOM read 12.5V. At some moment, I had pressed the key fob buttons, which I normally dont do. Not sure if fob is my issue. I turn the key and dash goes blank like battery is dead. I jump the car. all of the systems such as hazard lights and headlights work. Turn key to second position as if to start. All of the normal lights come on. but when I try to start the van, instrument lights flash a few times and no starting noise is made. There had been a message on the screen about start error. Fuses all look good. PO had some odd ones in there. I took those out. Radio, cig lighter and right rear lamp. Dont think they would prevent van from starting. Something is a preventing from starting.
Once I disconnect the helper car jumpers, van goes back to very odd behaviors of appearing to be low on battery. Again battery after being assisted for 20 mins, shows 12.6V on the VOM. Yet when putting the key into the ignition behaves very strangely. All lights on the instrument cluster go blank.

Prior to these issues I had run the van fine. I also did remove the fuse block on the battery to clean up a wire problem the PO had left unrepaired. Could my problem have been a hapchance with the ignition switch? Did I trigger something when I removed the fuse block on the battery? Do I need to get a lock smith out to fix the imoblizer issue? I only have the one key. It is also quite worn down.
 

PATECO

Member
I was doing this mod on a friend's sprinter and figured i would take some more photos of the fob dissasembly. One is of the fob compared to the new key. Notice the black tape holding the fob together-its seen better days! In another photo you can see the way the chip is held in place with the white plastic piece. On some fobs the chip is glued in. On others the white piece holds it in place. If you carefully dissasemble the fob, remove the chip and then reassemble the fob, it still functions normally. You just now have the option of making your own spare keys, sans fob (as long as you followed the instructions in the first post of this thread).
Edit- Daveisdave made a good point that I forgot to mention- on *some* sprinters (like Daveisdave's) you will need to file down the part of the new key you hold with your thumb and finger. For some reason, the key won't seat deep enough in the ignition. I don't have a photo of any of the keys I've had to file down, but you can see on the original key that the flat shaft between the black fob and the cut part is a slight bit longer than the flat part on the new key. I'll try to find someone who I have had to file down their key and post a photo of it.

My last functioning key fob broke last week. So that I now had 3 broken fobs with detached keys. I searched arround, and found replacement fob cases with blank keys on E-bay


Mercedes 2-Button-Flip-Remote-Key-Shell-Case

When they arrived, I split open my original fobs, removed the chip, and the remote door lock control board, and transferred both into the new fob cases. then I also took the cut keys out of the broken old fobs and replaced the blanks that had come with the new fob cases. Snapped them together with a little gel super glue, and now I have three fully functional fob keys with remotes.

Be really careful with the button springs for the key flip. I had one get away, and had to hunt on the floor for it for quite some time.
 

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Jonessprinter

New member
Does anyone know somewhere I can get mb17 keys quickly? Looks like ones on amazon are in China! Somewhere local? Tried dodge dealer, Walmart, lowes, ace, do it best. No blanks
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Prowl independent locksmiths... there is also a VW key that fits (at least as a mechanical)
(i'll add its number here if i can dig it up)

From my dusty records, for T1N Sprinters:
ILCO MB-17, DL YM19 <-- RFID
Bianchi BYS15TK1 <-- clonable RFID
Ilco blank # 61-6337 (don't know if it has RFID)

The last mechanical key i found was at a small kiosk-in-shopping-mall key-cutter's.

--dick
 
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PATECO

Member
I took a pick of one of the re-cased key fobs. I think it turned out quite nicely, and works great.

This one had been sitting in the kitchen junk drawer for the last 3 years so the key itself still has electrical tape / dirt residue on it from the old failed repair
 

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autostaretx

Erratic Member
You are correct about them not working in "newer years" (2007+)... the metal part of the key is a completely different shape ("warding" as they say in the trade) and cutting technology.

--dick
 

percym

New member
Great success finally getting functional keys for 2002 Freightliner Sprinter. Ordered the chip key blanks from ebay (5 for $40). The blanks were sold as 2003-2006 Dodge Sprinter keys but they worked fine in my 2002 model year (built Nov 2001). Got them cut and cloned at Ace Hardware of South Walton (Walton County Florida). None of the locksmiths in the area could do it, and the other three Ace Hardware stores were not equipped for chip keys, but Ace of South Walton handled it quickly and economically. My 2002 Freightliner was not in their chip key computer system, but doing it as a 2003 Dodge Sprinter worked fine. Since many Ace Hardware locations don't realize they can do it, convince them to try, and it works fine. 5 out of 5 successful keys work in door and ignition.

Caution: My key blanks were longer than they needed to be. Make sure the key is cut from the shoulder rather than the tip so you don't end up with a key that is too long.
 
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220629

Well-known member
Back to the glue the chip subject. Very little disassembly is needed for the hack.

Added by vic:
The chip is best levered out using the Three Point Star side of the OEM key.

If you epoxy the chip into place, test any chip location choice before final epoxy. My chip wouldn't work unless in specific positions. The alignment and position of the narrow end of the chip seem to be critical. Narrow end goes near the face as shown.

The sensing ring can be easily accessed by removing 2 ea. screws above the FB#1 and tipping the plastic housing down. A pair of needle nose pliers can then position and set the chip using Goop glue. Either side of the cable tombstone can be selected for the chip installation. Favor the chip being as close to the face of the ring as practical. Even if it is a bit proud, before hardening, the Goop glue will let the chip slide back a bit when the outer plastic housing cover is re-installed. Unlike epoxy, Goop glue allows easy re-positioning. Once cured it will tenaciously hold the chip into place.

Plastic handle OEM appearing un-programmed or non-chip brass keys are cheap to buy. I couldn't find a local locksmith to cut a steel key for me. I recommend choosing an OEM key look-a-like rather than a plain brass key. Then you will walk like a duck.
...
As always clicking on the blue arrow icon within any quote box will take you to the original post/thread. There is more detail and Fob information in that thread.

vic
 
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