robmurray12
New member
2008 Dodge NCV3 170" WB 3500 DRW
Hello. I had a failing axle seal on my van. After attempts of finding a how-to write-up on both this site and the greater interwebs came back fruitless I decided to do a write-up in case anyone else would like to tackle this job. Very simple with a solid but basic set of tools (no special tools req'd in my case but some by-the-bookers may choose to use some). Took me ~3 hours (most of that cleaning hub casting and wheel flange). If I had to do it again I think I could do it in ~1.5 hours.
Note: This write up is specific to the NCV3 (MY2007+) 3500 DRW axle configuration.
Disclaimer: Methods shown are what worked for me whether right, wrong, or lucky. It is my attempt to show the basic concept/sequence of events. I'm a driveway wrencher with a good set of tools (not many specialty tools i.e. slide hammer, pullers, etc.) but not a trained mechanic.
More experienced wrenchers please feel free to share tips/tricks or call-out any questionable practices I performed.
Note: Depending on gear oil level, gear oil may (probably will) exit the hub/axle when removing the hub. Be prepared with a catch pan for sure. If you wish/need you can perform a complete gear oil change (drain pre hub removal, refill post reassembly). See part 21.
1) Jack and support axle end with failing seal. "Proper" jacking point is at front of leaf spring hanger where there is a saddle for the jack shoe to nest in. I then placed jack stands under the axle tube and let the jack down until it is barely resting on the stands in case of catastrophic jack failure. Don't forget to block tires.
2) Remove both wheels.
3) Remove wheel flange to hub bolts. (6) 19mm. Remove wheel flange.
4) Remove axle shaft flange nuts. (6) 16mm or 5/8". Slide out axle shaft. Place on a clean surface and keep clean for reassembly later.
5) Remove brake caliper to bracket bolts. (2) 24mm. Remove caliper and support being sure not to stress brake/sensor lines.
6) Slide off rotor. Be sure parking brake is released.
7) Remove spindle nuts/washers. In this order: (1) outer spindle nut, (1) lock washer, (1) inner spindle nut, (1) thrust washer, (1) outer hub tapered roller bearing. I used a mallet and broad flat blade screw driver to brake the spindle nuts free, very minor tapping. Be mindful not to gall the nuts if not using a proper spindle nut socket. Place all components on a clean surface and keep clean for reassembly later.
8) Slide hub casting off the spindle.
9) Use a punch and mallet to press out the tone ring on the backside of the hub casting.
10) With the tone ring removed, pry out the failed axle seal being careful not to gall the hub or damage the inner hub tapered roller bearing.
11) Clean all components as needed, I cleaned the tone ring and hub casting. Spindle, inside of hub and both tapered roller bearings shall be free of debris and contaminants! If using de-greasing fluid be careful to not contaminate brake rotor, pads or parking brake shoes/drum. I left the existing gear oil on the tapered roller bearings and inspected for cleanliness of bearings and races.
12) Lightly tap new axle seal into the hub with a mallet so that it is flush with the lip of the race it is pushed into.
13) Re-install the tone ring with a mallet. Make sure alignment is correct and that it seats uniformly. Be careful not to gall, dent or bend the tone ring. This was fairly challenging to get it to seat evenly.
14) Re-install the hub casting onto the spindle with the newly installed axle seal and tone ring. Ensure cleanliness and applicable greasing of spindle, hub casting, bearings and races.
15) Re-install the outer tapered roller bearing, spindle nuts, thrust washer, and lock washer in reverse order outlined in part 7. IMPORTANT: When setting pre-load on the bearing be sure to not over tighten. I set mine so that it spun "freely" considering the size/resistance of the hub and seal drag, but had ZERO PLAY between the hub and the spindle (wiggle/sliding of the hub on the spindle). I tightened slowly until no play was able to be detected. TAKE YOUR TIME AND GET IT RIGHT! Excessive or inadequate bearing pre-load are equally bad. I could not find any spindle nut torque specs or pre-load set parameters.
16) Ensure cleanliness of the axle shaft and coat inside of flange surface with a gasket/sealant product where it mates to the hub casting (this joint is effectively the "seal" on the outside of the hub. This joint and the seal I replaced are responsible for keeping all gear oil in the hub, lubricating the wheel bearings). I used a Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant.
17) Re-install the axle shaft making sure the splines key into the differential properly. Install the axle shaft flange nuts. (6) 16mm or 5/8". I torqued to 50 ft-lbs (similar to the T1N specs, could not find NCV3 specs).
18) Re-install in order: brake rotor, wheel flange. Install wheel flange/brake rotor bolts. (6) 19mm. I torqued to 150 ft-lbs (similar to the T1N specs, could not find NCV3 specs).
19) Re-install brake caliper with bolts. (2) 24mm. I torqued to 100ft-lbs (similar to the T1N specs, could not find NCV3 specs).
20) Re-install wheels with nuts. (6) 19mm. Torque to 177ft-lbs.
21) Verify proper gear oil level via rubber inspection port on differential cover. Gear oil should be up to the lower rim when the vehicle is on a level surface. I needed to replace approx. 0.3L of Fuchs Titan 80W90 (OEM via Europarts SD) to bring it back to the correct level. If you are electing for a complete gear oil change, capacity is 1.8L (remove plug on passenger side of differential housing and drain).
Pretty simple.
Exploded view of axle assembly attached along with pictures of the steps. Axle exploded view source: 2008 Dodge Sprinter Parts Manual (pdf).
Robert
Hello. I had a failing axle seal on my van. After attempts of finding a how-to write-up on both this site and the greater interwebs came back fruitless I decided to do a write-up in case anyone else would like to tackle this job. Very simple with a solid but basic set of tools (no special tools req'd in my case but some by-the-bookers may choose to use some). Took me ~3 hours (most of that cleaning hub casting and wheel flange). If I had to do it again I think I could do it in ~1.5 hours.
Note: This write up is specific to the NCV3 (MY2007+) 3500 DRW axle configuration.
Disclaimer: Methods shown are what worked for me whether right, wrong, or lucky. It is my attempt to show the basic concept/sequence of events. I'm a driveway wrencher with a good set of tools (not many specialty tools i.e. slide hammer, pullers, etc.) but not a trained mechanic.
More experienced wrenchers please feel free to share tips/tricks or call-out any questionable practices I performed.
Note: Depending on gear oil level, gear oil may (probably will) exit the hub/axle when removing the hub. Be prepared with a catch pan for sure. If you wish/need you can perform a complete gear oil change (drain pre hub removal, refill post reassembly). See part 21.
1) Jack and support axle end with failing seal. "Proper" jacking point is at front of leaf spring hanger where there is a saddle for the jack shoe to nest in. I then placed jack stands under the axle tube and let the jack down until it is barely resting on the stands in case of catastrophic jack failure. Don't forget to block tires.
2) Remove both wheels.
3) Remove wheel flange to hub bolts. (6) 19mm. Remove wheel flange.
4) Remove axle shaft flange nuts. (6) 16mm or 5/8". Slide out axle shaft. Place on a clean surface and keep clean for reassembly later.
5) Remove brake caliper to bracket bolts. (2) 24mm. Remove caliper and support being sure not to stress brake/sensor lines.
6) Slide off rotor. Be sure parking brake is released.
7) Remove spindle nuts/washers. In this order: (1) outer spindle nut, (1) lock washer, (1) inner spindle nut, (1) thrust washer, (1) outer hub tapered roller bearing. I used a mallet and broad flat blade screw driver to brake the spindle nuts free, very minor tapping. Be mindful not to gall the nuts if not using a proper spindle nut socket. Place all components on a clean surface and keep clean for reassembly later.
8) Slide hub casting off the spindle.
9) Use a punch and mallet to press out the tone ring on the backside of the hub casting.
10) With the tone ring removed, pry out the failed axle seal being careful not to gall the hub or damage the inner hub tapered roller bearing.
11) Clean all components as needed, I cleaned the tone ring and hub casting. Spindle, inside of hub and both tapered roller bearings shall be free of debris and contaminants! If using de-greasing fluid be careful to not contaminate brake rotor, pads or parking brake shoes/drum. I left the existing gear oil on the tapered roller bearings and inspected for cleanliness of bearings and races.
12) Lightly tap new axle seal into the hub with a mallet so that it is flush with the lip of the race it is pushed into.
13) Re-install the tone ring with a mallet. Make sure alignment is correct and that it seats uniformly. Be careful not to gall, dent or bend the tone ring. This was fairly challenging to get it to seat evenly.
14) Re-install the hub casting onto the spindle with the newly installed axle seal and tone ring. Ensure cleanliness and applicable greasing of spindle, hub casting, bearings and races.
15) Re-install the outer tapered roller bearing, spindle nuts, thrust washer, and lock washer in reverse order outlined in part 7. IMPORTANT: When setting pre-load on the bearing be sure to not over tighten. I set mine so that it spun "freely" considering the size/resistance of the hub and seal drag, but had ZERO PLAY between the hub and the spindle (wiggle/sliding of the hub on the spindle). I tightened slowly until no play was able to be detected. TAKE YOUR TIME AND GET IT RIGHT! Excessive or inadequate bearing pre-load are equally bad. I could not find any spindle nut torque specs or pre-load set parameters.
16) Ensure cleanliness of the axle shaft and coat inside of flange surface with a gasket/sealant product where it mates to the hub casting (this joint is effectively the "seal" on the outside of the hub. This joint and the seal I replaced are responsible for keeping all gear oil in the hub, lubricating the wheel bearings). I used a Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant.
17) Re-install the axle shaft making sure the splines key into the differential properly. Install the axle shaft flange nuts. (6) 16mm or 5/8". I torqued to 50 ft-lbs (similar to the T1N specs, could not find NCV3 specs).
18) Re-install in order: brake rotor, wheel flange. Install wheel flange/brake rotor bolts. (6) 19mm. I torqued to 150 ft-lbs (similar to the T1N specs, could not find NCV3 specs).
19) Re-install brake caliper with bolts. (2) 24mm. I torqued to 100ft-lbs (similar to the T1N specs, could not find NCV3 specs).
20) Re-install wheels with nuts. (6) 19mm. Torque to 177ft-lbs.
21) Verify proper gear oil level via rubber inspection port on differential cover. Gear oil should be up to the lower rim when the vehicle is on a level surface. I needed to replace approx. 0.3L of Fuchs Titan 80W90 (OEM via Europarts SD) to bring it back to the correct level. If you are electing for a complete gear oil change, capacity is 1.8L (remove plug on passenger side of differential housing and drain).
Pretty simple.
Exploded view of axle assembly attached along with pictures of the steps. Axle exploded view source: 2008 Dodge Sprinter Parts Manual (pdf).
Robert
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