V30 Under driver seat pics and time for a beer.....

[familytruckster11]

The fun part of this journey is that 2019s seem rare enough to not have any write ups yet. SO tonights accomplishments. Please do not let me duplicate....if there is a write up out there then lemme know.

1) removed connection to battery next to accelerator

2) removed 4 bolts securing driver seat.
Note: My rig has factory swivel seats with lower bases. Swiveling the seat give great access to the Etorx bolts

3) Unplug the yellow connector and the White connector for seat electronics.
Is yellow Airbag I assume and white is electric seat adjustment

4) encounter way more cabling that does not look like anything in any other research.

I have a FEMALE EC8 TO RING TERMINAL and LINK that I would like to safely connect. https://www.goalzero.com/shop/kits/y...-charging-kit/

FIRST QUESTION:
Any ideas on where I should tie this in?
I found the ground BUT there is a heck of a lot of stuff to remove to get to it.....AND I found what looks like a bus bar....I believe the Goal Zero yeti Link will take 50 AMPs/750W

pictures attached.....down side to getting a loaded van....they shove more wiring in it.....

SECOND QUESTION:
The GZ yeti link will detect when voltage drops and stop pulling from van battery. My van has a factory aux battery (both AGM). My question is...how does MB wire these?
Does starter battery charge first then charge aux battery? I know there is an isolator to prevent a dead battery. I just do not know if they put an isolator between Starter and aux battery OR is it after them as a group...

[Notfamous]

I love my goal zero 1400 and yetlink smart connection!

You can connect the yeti Link to you aux battery. You should.already have an OEM isolator installed. If you download the Sprinter Builders Equipment Guide, it will tell you each post's limit. a3 (or labeled "3") is the cable that goes directly to your aux battery.

For the ground, you will need to use a ratchet with extension to loosen 2-3 bolts that attaches the black platform that houses all the electronics under the seat to the floor.



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[sanomechanic]

Originally Posted by familytruckster11

My question is...how does MB wire these?
Does starter battery charge first then charge aux battery? I know there is an isolator to prevent a dead battery. I just do not know if they put an isolator between Starter and aux battery OR is it after them as a group...

When the ignition switch is in the on position, the isolator relay coil is energized. That completes a circuit that allows both batteries to be in parallel "together" so the engine alternator can charge both. When ignition is turned off. it separates the 2 batteries so you cannot drain the battery that operates the starter, proprietary van electronics and engine control system. Make sure you do not tap into the wrong power source.

[autostaretx]

Labeling your photo:

UnderSeatWiring05labels.jpg

MB does not operate the Isolation relay when you turn on the key.
They wait until the alternator is actually generating power. (D+ active).

There is an "EK1" terminal strip with fused "copies" of battery, ignition-on and D+ available.

It may be that covered set of posts hiding behind the isolation relay.
(the smallest post will be the "D+" signal, designed for user-supplied isolation relays (or kicking the Yeti))
In your fuse list, there will be three with the words "body manufacturer" as part of the description ... those are the fuses feeding the three-post EK1 strip.

--dick

[autostaretx]

..and then there's this helpful thread: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=76744

... which includes this photo of the EK1 strip with its cover open (you can see the isolation relay, too)



The "top" (smallest) post in that photo is what you'd use to trigger other isolation relay systems.

Your Yeti will also need to have a "common ground" (i.e. its negative to the Sprinter's frame) for the trigger (and charging) to work.

--dick

[sanomechanic]

Originally Posted by autostaretx

Labeling your photo:

Attachment 117910

MB does not operate the Isolation relay when you turn on the key.
They wait until the alternator is actually generating power. (D+ active).

--dick

I left out engine running. "power on"

[familytruckster11]

awesome info. Thanks for the support. I downloaded the guide......based on all this and the link to the other post (I found that right after I posted as well).

Here is my plan.....once seat is off.....
1) unbolt the plastic carriage to get to the ground bolt. the reassemble...
2) Install SF30 standard - 50 amp fuse on position A1 of the fuse block with M6 bolts. Tie my EC8 Yeti positive cable to that
3) reassemble

Thanks for all the info on the batteries....it sounds like I will never draw from my starter battery no matter what. Only from the aux. As the aux is drained it will take more from the alternator if it is lower than the starter battery (or starter battery is fully charged)

[grantwilson]

yuo need to tap the small button with a pin on the LINK module to turn it to car mode.

four times.

[familytruckster11]

Originally Posted by grantwilson

yuo need to tap the small button with a pin on the LINK module to turn it to car mode.

four times.

Got it all installed a hope to post a full write up with pics with it in car mode.

My brand new yeti 1400 has a bug.....I put the link in car mode and the output nor input will show anything but zeros even though it is charging. I have updated the firmware and have seen it posted on goal zero website so I will call them.

My yeti 1400 charges 1% every 5 Min. so in theory.....14Wh per 5 min which seems low compared to goal zero stating it should take up to 750 Watts. .....still thinking through...my goal is that my Dometic will run for 48 hrs off the yeti (7.9 amp peaks).

[familytruckster11]

OK so a miracle happened. I think all this was a Goal Zero bug. I am now getting 500+ watts input on my Goal Zero Yeti 1400 AND I can see the draw by the Dometic. After all the hiccups I brought it inside the house and charged over night to 100%. I think that completed the reboot with the new firmware or something......But it is working as I want it too....high input. and connected as the picture I attached....


Thanks everyone for the help on this!