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Old 11-22-2019, 03:48 AM   #1
SprinterLex
 
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Default 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T1N

I have been working on my van for over 2 weeks and am desperate for help. I already missed high school best friends' bachelor's parties, and most likely will miss his wedding that's in a coming up real soon because I can't drive the 13 hours to get there.

Vehicle:
2006 Dodge sprinter 3500 cargo van

Symptoms:
- No Check Engine light
- In Park / Neutral RPM's normal
- If in Drive / Reverse and pushing on the gas this is what happens. The RPM's don't go over 1,000-1,500. The van feels like it's hindered when using the gas. I'm just a DIYer but I would guess this is what a sprinter van may sound like if it the wheels were cemented into the ground and could not turn.


What happened at the start (in short)
1. Did doctor a fix because of rumble, found stardust in fluid.
2. messed up on ATF fluid and didn't put enough which caused slipping in road test one.
3. Possibly messed up by following a recommendation to use the "right stuff" for a sealant on the 13-pin connector instead of buying a new 13-pin connector piece. I cleaned and put a new 13-pin connector from dealership after road test 1 went badly.
4. I swapped my valve body and plate with a my other working sprinter van. I also removed Doctor A fix with a new plate for road test 2
5. Again unknowingly messed up atf fluid level and didn't put enough and it slipped reallllllyyyy bad. van barely moved.
6. I bought a good priced used transmission. I knew something was wrong but also clutch(s) were going in my old transmission anyways
7. I realized my low fluid mistake before installing new transmission
8. Decide to test my old transmission with the right fluid levels before I installed new transmission. I used old atf fluid that might have a tiny bit of contamination with motor oil. But what the hell the transmission was going in the garbage anyway I have nothing to lose but the time it takes to test it.
9. With proper fluid level sprinter came back to life. but it would suddenly switch as if into netural then kick back into gear. I also heard a very terrible noise from the TC.
10. I decided that the TC was probably the main problem
- So I decided not to install the new/used transmission I bought.
- I decided to just swap the torque converter to see if that was the issue.
- I also swapped the valve body and conductor plate in case it was broken on my old transmission.
- I also put the doctor A rumble fix plate on the conductor plate
- I bought more atf fluid for the test. I always thought my transmission issues were the Torque convertor so I had a feeling this could very well fix all my issues.

THE VAN DROVE LIKE A DREAM
- No issues at all
- No rumble strip at all
- Smooth-shifting.

TIME FROM MY FIX TO CURRENT ISSUE
- Day 1 the van was fixed and did awesome on it's short test drive
- Day 2 we drove the van around city doing errands.
- Day 3 we packed up all our stuff for the long trip to my parent's place 13 hours away and were ready to go for the next day.
- Day 4 my lady started it and drove it about 30 meters/100 feet then it stopped working. It developed the symptoms that I listed at the very top of the post. I towed it to a shop.

THE SHOP EXPENSIVE DIAGNOSES DISASTOR
I brought it to a shop (euro works) After 3 days this is what they told me
- They told me their machine could not communicate with the TCM.
- They said "The technician went to unplug the connector and oil started leaking out requires cleaning of the plug. Requires replacement of megatronics sleeve" ( I believe that sleave is the 13-pin connector which i changed correctly 4 days ago with a dealership part)
- They said the ATF fluid was high.... It's possible I didn't want to underfill it so I added 8L but my funnel tipped over during the fill. so I probably had about 8-8.5L. I saw on a youtube t1n video that high fluid won't cause major issues.
- I didn't like the super high prices they were quoting me and something didn't feel right at the shop so I pulled my vehicle from them.

LAST INFO
- after the shop I check the TCM box for fluid and it was dry
- codes they gave me was P2514, P2209, P2211, P2210, P2153, P2227, P2225, all had a description of "active unknown fault". I recognize at least one of those codes as an old solved issue.
- I have had this van for less than a year but it's been doing great. done over 60,000km with it already.

BTW
the shop charged me 536 dollars for only 2.7 hours of diagnostic & 3 dollars in parts...
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:05 AM   #2
Brokecanadian
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

Interesting that it works perfectly, until it doesn't. Kinda like mine; although turning van off and restarting lets me attempt to try and have it go thru the gears again.

What you describe sounds like when mine sticks in 3rd or 4th. Transmission isn't really "slipping" but obviously doesn't operate like it should.

First order of business if you're going to fix yourself: scan tool capable of reading what's wrong but more importantly capable of resetting TRANSMISSION limp mode (not saying that's what is wrong, but if you get stuck in second it is the only way to recover)

Visit the threads on scanners here. It has to be a Mercedes specific type, you can't access the transmission module with a normal OBD II type scanner. Which, makes me wonder about that shop you used...

I'm sure some will chime in about possible mechanical problems, but the fact that it CAN work well makes me think: modules and wiring

Try and eliminate (like you have been) the usual stuff, but I'll be writing an article here about the use of an oscilloscope to diagnose these problems as soon as it gets here from China. That's my guess, wiring or module (in my case I see the canbus error messages)


Edit: over 400,000 miles of delivery on my original 2005 transmission. I like the idea of you figuring out the original problem, but having a spare

In my case, I could swap the entire transmission and the new one would stick in gear and stop shifting too. I suspect the module on the ABS unit, but I'm done parts swapping without knowing for sure. The oscilloscope should let me watch the modules talk, and if there's something up with a module, the signal would correct after the bad one is unplugged. Lots of YouTube vids on this. I'll also be able to verify wheel speed sensors, which the TCM depends on

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Last edited by Brokecanadian; 11-22-2019 at 04:12 AM.
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:15 AM   #3
SprinterLex
 
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

I found this other forum with very similar issues


https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=62661


His was the conductor plate was bad. I'm going to try and replace my conductor plate with the other one I have and see if that solves the problem. But the other forum has other possible issues listed as well for anyone else trying to solve this problem and it's not the conductor plate.
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:16 AM   #4
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

Almost forgot: my rpms do the same with engine bucking and jerking, if I hook up all 4 wheel speed sensors. I can overcome with full throttle but it's a horrible ride. I literally yanked my back left wheel speed sensor wire to get it to stop, and put up with the 3 lights on dash and 2/3 times I drive, getting stuck in gear...but no throttle limitation like van thinks I'm taking off on ice...module for sure, just not sure which one
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:18 AM   #5
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

Quote:
Originally Posted by SprinterLex View Post
I found this other forum with very similar issues


https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=62661


His was the conductor plate was bad. I'm going to try and replace my conductor plate with the other one I have and see if that solves the problem. But the other forum has other possible issues listed as well for anyone else trying to solve this problem and it's not the conductor plate.
Good info, but I know you already swapped the valve body and conductor plate. Few months ago I did the same, and no difference in symptoms
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:25 AM   #6
Brokecanadian
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

Also hoping you used Shell 134 or equivalent for trans

8 quarts only with tc drain
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Old 11-22-2019, 01:02 PM   #7
Patrick of M
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

What does Your scanner say is wrong?
Did you ever replace the plug/oring on the transmission end?
Just because oil hasn’t made its way up to the TCM doesn’t mean it isn’t having communication problems because of a oily plug at the other end.
Of course if you scan it communication errors will show up.....see top.
p.s. get/make a trans dipstick, fluid level seems to be a major error point for you.
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Old 11-22-2019, 04:36 PM   #8
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

Before you run down the rabbit hole. Does your scanner report the brake switch as been pressed? If the TCM/ECM sees the brake applied, you will have almost no power, and the engine won't get over 1500rpm.

A faulty brake switch, tail housing wiring, etc can cause this.

The brake switch may need adjusted if it was bumped. Check the service manual.

The brake switch has 2 circuits. So it can fail without abnormal brake light behavior.
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Old 11-22-2019, 08:41 PM   #9
Trick
 
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

I hope you fix this and update. It sounds very similar to the issue I'm currently having.
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Old 11-23-2019, 04:35 PM   #10
SprinterLex
 
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Default Re: 2006 Sprinter won't move, no engine light, feels under load in drive / reverse, T

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brokecanadian View Post
Interesting that it works perfectly, until it doesn't. Kinda like mine; although turning van off and restarting lets me attempt to try and have it go thru the gears again.

What you describe sounds like when mine sticks in 3rd or 4th. Transmission isn't really "slipping" but obviously doesn't operate like it should.

First order of business if you're going to fix yourself: scan tool capable of reading what's wrong but more importantly capable of resetting TRANSMISSION limp mode (not saying that's what is wrong, but if you get stuck in second it is the only way to recover)

Visit the threads on scanners here. It has to be a Mercedes specific type, you can't access the transmission module with a normal OBD II type scanner. Which, makes me wonder about that shop you used...

I'm sure some will chime in about possible mechanical problems, but the fact that it CAN work well makes me think: modules and wiring

Try and eliminate (like you have been) the usual stuff, but I'll be writing an article here about the use of an oscilloscope to diagnose these problems as soon as it gets here from China. That's my guess, wiring or module (in my case I see the canbus error messages)


Edit: over 400,000 miles of delivery on my original 2005 transmission. I like the idea of you figuring out the original problem, but having a spare

In my case, I could swap the entire transmission and the new one would stick in gear and stop shifting too. I suspect the module on the ABS unit, but I'm done parts swapping without knowing for sure. The oscilloscope should let me watch the modules talk, and if there's something up with a module, the signal would correct after the bad one is unplugged. Lots of YouTube vids on this. I'll also be able to verify wheel speed sensors, which the TCM depends on

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
I'm thinking of buying an icarsoft mb II, or Autel MD802 (full system not four systems), or MB Star c3 china clone. I'm just assuming I won't have the opportunity to buy a DAD. Any suggestions?

Major consideration is once this is fixed I will drive all the way from Calgary, AB to Manitoba MB. over 13-hour drive. So I have the problem of where to send the scanner. Also I'm desperate to get this fixed fast because I have a limited time to Reno the one van into a RV for the tourist season... Me and my wife are already very stressed out because we are broke/debt and time is ticking. I'm hoping I get this fixed and can send the scanner to Manitoba for future issues.

The good thing is a back yard mechanic lives 4 min from us and he just bought a very expensive scanner. He is honest and says he doesn't know how to use it, but perhaps he can reset my limp mode if I can get it fixed... Is this a hard thing for a shop scanner to do? I maybe dead wrong on my next line so please correct me if I'm wrong. That perhaps there is two types of limp mode, like a soft and hard. the soft can be reset and the hard is locked into the TCM. If so can a regular shop machine reset the "hard" limp mode. I know a guy on youtube that was reseting some kind of "hard" limp mode for people's tcm with a china MB star c3 .
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