Head lights, low beam, head lamps, headlamps
The 2006 doesn't have DRL. We were heading to Florida on our straight thru road trip. Starting around 8:00 p.m. the headlights would go out whenever the turn signal stalk was moved. I found that if I messed with clicking the twist switch back and forth I could get the headlights back on. That was working fine until it didn't. Eventually it got to the point that twisting the switch did nothing. No high beams, no dipped lights... the high beam stalk pull flash worked. I did find that turning the left turn signal on kept the low beams working. All running lights were fine. I was driving down I 77 like a clueless old man with left blinker flashing.
The problem within the Multi Function Switch MFS must be mechanical. The contacts kept the head lights on while the left turn signal was enabled. ADDED: Turned out that there was one set of contacts which appeared quite pitted. The mechanics of the rotating drum were good.
I decided maybe I could power the lights through the fuses. It was now around 10 p.m. Auto parts stores were closed. My wife located a Walmart. I was hoping for a fuse multiplier to use as the fuse block tap/input. No luck for that, but I did get 16 gauge red wire, a switch, 10 amp fuses, slide connectors, and a cigarette outlet plug. About 20 bucks.
********
The fuses seem to be BEFORE the switch.
No luck feeding power via one side of the fuse holder to the head lights. No love there.
Added:
Schematic 8w-10-27 shows that it should work to feed the dipped lights through the FB#1. Maybe it was the time of night and my testing was flawed?
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=584921#post584921
The benefit of powering through FB#1 is that the headlamp rear covers and wiring remain undisturbed. A possible drawback is that if too thick of a slide connector tap into the fuse holder is used/forced, it may spread the fuse clip contacts to cause future conduction problems when the 10 amp fuses are returned to service for normal operation.
********
After removing the rear pod cover I was able to use snap on taps to connect the 16 ga wire to the yellow hot lead of each head light. I removed the 2 ea. 10 amp head light fuses from FB#1 to avoid power feedback. I next routed the wire out the hood and in through the driver door. Some tinfoil around the cigarette plug included 5 amp fuse avoided that too small fuse being a problem. I plugged into the console power, flipped the switch and we had headlights again.
The console power outlet worked fine to power the 2 ea. 55 watt head lights. The Walmart cigarette plug got a little warm (designed with 5 amp fuse), but not even close to hot. We continued on to Daytona Beach without problems.
Parts needed. Approx. 10 bucks?
10 - 12 feet 16 ga wire. (Red color preferred. No negative wire is needed.)
Cigarette power plug. Or a 20 amp fuse and connector to go directly to the battery.
20 amp switch. (Not really necessary. Just plug in when lights are needed.)
A couple wire nuts.
2 ea. tap connectors.
My plan is to order the MFS from Europarts SD to maybe install while at the campground. I have a good assortment of tools.I don't have a steering wheel puller. (No puller needed.) Assuming that the running lights continue to light up using the MFS, my headlight fix will get us home just fine if necessary.
Some questions for those who have installed a MFS.
Are there any pitfalls for installation? Any special tools needed? Is campground installation a good idea, or should I wait until I'm home with all of my tools?
Added:
It appears that I may be able to do the change at the campground. * Yep! It's all done.
Replacing the MFS begins here. Some of my notes are below.
The aftermarket MFS I installed in Feb. 2019 is still working as of Jan. 2020, May 2021.
Replacing the MFS (multi-function switch)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23079
vic
Added2:
The failure mode that I have may not be uncommon.
There is a white plastic rotating "drum" which pushes the contact finger to close the various electrical contacts.My bet is that the pivot point of the drum fails and the drum drops away from the contact fingers.
Added:
During the MFS change I found a bunch of glass shards in various places in the covers and the emergency flasher. Likely a side window was broken sometime before my ownership. Maybe some shards got in and screwed up the drum? (Nope.)
More internal pictures are here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=703977#post703977
Short of having a spare MFS unit, if your low beam headlights fail (FB#1 labeled as Dipped), my Mickey Mouse fix with taps, or through the fuse blockmay be is your best option. A fused tap directly off the battery can replace the cigarette plug supply.
*****************
Possible parts info.
My search results for a 2006 140 passenger Multifunction Switch MFS part numbers.
(My 2006 does not have a "P" anywhere on the left stalk.)
Added:
It does have the "P". There is an embossed white "P" very visible on the twist handle. I was looking for a molded or hidden "P". I was overthinking it. The white "P" with lighting streaks shows in the video. It marks the Left/Right side parking select twist position (the single click clockwise twist position - looking at the end).
******
Added:
Basically it appears that the "P" type Parking lamp side select and the non-"P" (no parking lamp side select) can be substituted without any overall operation issues other than adding or deleting the parking side lamp select option.
Supporting details are in posts further down.
******
EPN: 001 540 46 45 (With "P") - Fits my 2004 and 2006.
https://europarts-sd.com/item.asp?cID=97&PID=5050
The following should all be equivalent parts.
0015404645 MB
OEN 000 540 74 45 — MERCEDES-BENZ
OEN 001 540 46 45 — MERCEDES-BENZ
+++++
https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-5103745AA-Multifunction-Windshield-Freightliner/dp/B00IW53MEQ (excludes 158 WB *** Maybe not! See post #5 below.)
MERCEDES-BENZ (A 000 540 74 45)
VW (2D0 953 503)
Update: Installed 1/2019. Still working fine 8/2020, May 2021.
+++++
OEN 05103745AA — DODGE/Chrysler
OEN 5103745AA — DODGE/Chrysler
05103745AA (5AE) = 118 and 140 WB per Autostaretx Dick.
******************
This is not equivalent to my above 140 WB list?
EPN: 001 540 47 45 (Without "P")
https://europarts-sd.com/combinationswitch2002-2006.asp
Some notes from my installation:
Tools that I used. (From memory.)
A T30 Torx for the airbag screws. A T27 will work. The screw heads are not very deep. They are maybe 3/4" of an inch recessed at most.
A 10mm deep socket for the FB#1 fasteners.
Steering wheel. A 10 mm Allen with 1/2" ratchet handle, or 3/8" drive with a cheater. The 2006 screw was quite tight.
A typical size and also a medium/small size Phillips screwdriver. Some of the MFS screw Phillips heads are small.
Some things I recall.
Disconnect the battery!!! I lifted off the Power Center Fuse Assembly to isolate the battery power vs disconnecting the negative post.
The T30 airbag screws are recessed a bit, but not really deep. A folding multi size Torx tool worked fine.
Mark/index the steering wheel before removal (as shown in the video).
Pay attention to wire/cable positions. Some have specific routes.
The FB#1 can remain connected electrically, but the top and bottom 10mm head fasteners should be removed so it can drop away.
I needed to remove the Cruise Control Switch before the old MFS could be lifted off. The small/medium Phillips screw was accessed by rotating the MFS to off level. For re-installation I needed to push/hold the Cruise Switch in more than expected to align the fine thread screw.
If the loose cover removal or install is fighting you, changing the MFS lever positions may help.
My small Ryobi screw gun/impact worked great loosening the FB#1 top screw. I greased the new MFS brass inserts before install.
Some references.
Replacing the MFS (multi-function switch)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23079
sprinter Multi function switch ,MFS, turn signal assembly replacement
After some successful runs with the new MFS I disconnected the temporary feed wires. Rather than mess with the wire taps, I cut leads at about a foot, screwed a wire nut on and stowed the coiled wires in the pod. It gives me a connection point if needed again, but mostly I avoided messing with removing the taps.
The 2006 doesn't have DRL. We were heading to Florida on our straight thru road trip. Starting around 8:00 p.m. the headlights would go out whenever the turn signal stalk was moved. I found that if I messed with clicking the twist switch back and forth I could get the headlights back on. That was working fine until it didn't. Eventually it got to the point that twisting the switch did nothing. No high beams, no dipped lights... the high beam stalk pull flash worked. I did find that turning the left turn signal on kept the low beams working. All running lights were fine. I was driving down I 77 like a clueless old man with left blinker flashing.
The problem within the Multi Function Switch MFS must be mechanical. The contacts kept the head lights on while the left turn signal was enabled. ADDED: Turned out that there was one set of contacts which appeared quite pitted. The mechanics of the rotating drum were good.
I decided maybe I could power the lights through the fuses. It was now around 10 p.m. Auto parts stores were closed. My wife located a Walmart. I was hoping for a fuse multiplier to use as the fuse block tap/input. No luck for that, but I did get 16 gauge red wire, a switch, 10 amp fuses, slide connectors, and a cigarette outlet plug. About 20 bucks.
********
The fuses seem to be BEFORE the switch.
No luck feeding power via one side of the fuse holder to the head lights. No love there.Added:
Schematic 8w-10-27 shows that it should work to feed the dipped lights through the FB#1. Maybe it was the time of night and my testing was flawed?
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=584921#post584921
The benefit of powering through FB#1 is that the headlamp rear covers and wiring remain undisturbed. A possible drawback is that if too thick of a slide connector tap into the fuse holder is used/forced, it may spread the fuse clip contacts to cause future conduction problems when the 10 amp fuses are returned to service for normal operation.
********
After removing the rear pod cover I was able to use snap on taps to connect the 16 ga wire to the yellow hot lead of each head light. I removed the 2 ea. 10 amp head light fuses from FB#1 to avoid power feedback. I next routed the wire out the hood and in through the driver door. Some tinfoil around the cigarette plug included 5 amp fuse avoided that too small fuse being a problem. I plugged into the console power, flipped the switch and we had headlights again.
The console power outlet worked fine to power the 2 ea. 55 watt head lights. The Walmart cigarette plug got a little warm (designed with 5 amp fuse), but not even close to hot. We continued on to Daytona Beach without problems.
Parts needed. Approx. 10 bucks?
10 - 12 feet 16 ga wire. (Red color preferred. No negative wire is needed.)
Cigarette power plug. Or a 20 amp fuse and connector to go directly to the battery.
20 amp switch. (Not really necessary. Just plug in when lights are needed.)
A couple wire nuts.
2 ea. tap connectors.
My plan is to order the MFS from Europarts SD to maybe install while at the campground. I have a good assortment of tools.
Some questions for those who have installed a MFS.
Are there any pitfalls for installation? Any special tools needed? Is campground installation a good idea, or should I wait until I'm home with all of my tools?
Added:
It appears that I may be able to do the change at the campground. * Yep! It's all done.
Replacing the MFS begins here. Some of my notes are below.
The aftermarket MFS I installed in Feb. 2019 is still working as of Jan. 2020, May 2021.
Replacing the MFS (multi-function switch)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23079
vicAdded2:
The failure mode that I have may not be uncommon.
Mechanical Failure? Added: More likely pitted contacts.
There is a white plastic rotating "drum" which pushes the contact finger to close the various electrical contacts.
Added:
During the MFS change I found a bunch of glass shards in various places in the covers and the emergency flasher. Likely a side window was broken sometime before my ownership. Maybe some shards got in and screwed up the drum?
More internal pictures are here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=703977#post703977
Short of having a spare MFS unit, if your low beam headlights fail (FB#1 labeled as Dipped), my Mickey Mouse fix with taps, or through the fuse block
*****************
Possible parts info.
My search results for a 2006 140 passenger Multifunction Switch MFS part numbers.
(
Added:
It does have the "P". There is an embossed white "P" very visible on the twist handle. I was looking for a molded or hidden "P". I was overthinking it.
The white "P" with lighting streaks shows in the video. It marks the Left/Right side parking select twist position (the single click clockwise twist position - looking at the end).******
Added:
Basically it appears that the "P" type Parking lamp side select and the non-"P" (no parking lamp side select) can be substituted without any overall operation issues other than adding or deleting the parking side lamp select option.
Supporting details are in posts further down.
******
EPN: 001 540 46 45 (With "P") - Fits my 2004 and 2006.
https://europarts-sd.com/item.asp?cID=97&PID=5050
The following should all be equivalent parts.
0015404645 MB
OEN 000 540 74 45 — MERCEDES-BENZ
OEN 001 540 46 45 — MERCEDES-BENZ
+++++
https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-5103745AA-Multifunction-Windshield-Freightliner/dp/B00IW53MEQ (
MERCEDES-BENZ (A 000 540 74 45)
VW (2D0 953 503)
Update: Installed 1/2019. Still working fine 8/2020, May 2021.
+++++
OEN 05103745AA — DODGE/Chrysler
OEN 5103745AA — DODGE/Chrysler
05103745AA (5AE) = 118 and 140 WB per Autostaretx Dick.
******************
This is not equivalent to my above 140 WB list?
EPN: 001 540 47 45 (Without "P")
https://europarts-sd.com/combinationswitch2002-2006.asp
Some notes from my installation:
Tools that I used. (From memory.)
A T30 Torx for the airbag screws. A T27 will work. The screw heads are not very deep. They are maybe 3/4" of an inch recessed at most.
A 10mm deep socket for the FB#1 fasteners.
Steering wheel. A 10 mm Allen with 1/2" ratchet handle, or 3/8" drive with a cheater. The 2006 screw was quite tight.
A typical size and also a medium/small size Phillips screwdriver. Some of the MFS screw Phillips heads are small.
Some things I recall.
Disconnect the battery!!! I lifted off the Power Center Fuse Assembly to isolate the battery power vs disconnecting the negative post.
The T30 airbag screws are recessed a bit, but not really deep. A folding multi size Torx tool worked fine.
Mark/index the steering wheel before removal (as shown in the video).
Pay attention to wire/cable positions. Some have specific routes.
The FB#1 can remain connected electrically, but the top and bottom 10mm head fasteners should be removed so it can drop away.
I needed to remove the Cruise Control Switch before the old MFS could be lifted off. The small/medium Phillips screw was accessed by rotating the MFS to off level. For re-installation I needed to push/hold the Cruise Switch in more than expected to align the fine thread screw.
If the loose cover removal or install is fighting you, changing the MFS lever positions may help.
My small Ryobi screw gun/impact worked great loosening the FB#1 top screw. I greased the new MFS brass inserts before install.
Some references.
Replacing the MFS (multi-function switch)
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23079
sprinter Multi function switch ,MFS, turn signal assembly replacement
After some successful runs with the new MFS I disconnected the temporary feed wires. Rather than mess with the wire taps, I cut leads at about a foot, screwed a wire nut on and stowed the coiled wires in the pod. It gives me a connection point if needed again, but mostly I avoided messing with removing the taps.
Last edited:
