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Old 11-05-2016, 06:23 PM   #101
Graphite Dave
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

The water system is installed but has not been used yet because I do not have the SS tanks.

The system uses a quiet solar centrifugal water pump instead of the traditional RV noisy positive displacement pump. Much smaller space required. Pump is turned on/off with a switch at the sink. System is not pressurized when pump is off.

Attached picture shows the complete water system. Red hose is from the tank to the pump. There is a tee after the pump. One side of tee goes to the ball valve. Pressurized water available if ball valve is open. Ball valve is also the tank drain. Water will flow through a centrifugal pump when it is off. The separate shower water tank is filled with a hose from the ball valve. The other side of the tee goes to the sink faucet. There is a tee in the faucet piping so a small amount of water is returned to the tank. Purpose of that is to cool the pump if (when) I forget to turn the pump off. The hose to the sink faucet will be clear so I will be able to see the tank level.
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File Type: jpg 100_1485.JPG (132.0 KB, 285 views)
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Old 11-05-2016, 06:28 PM   #102
GeorgeRa
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Looking good Dave,
What is the box on the left side of the plumbing?
George.
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https://goo.gl/photos/2NCR3teXLSwNYSwN8
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Old 11-05-2016, 06:41 PM   #103
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeRa View Post
Looking good Dave,
What is the box on the left side of the plumbing?
George.
Transit floor structure. Slider step does not go all the way to the door frame.

Excuse the wiring hanging down. In the process of wiring the electrical panel that is on forward side of sink. There is a fold up table to be used for eating and computer work when the passenger seat is swiveled 180 degrees. From top of table to the bottom of the sink top is a panel with a 12 volt plug, a 120 volt duplex plug and the light switch for the overhead sink lights.
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Old 11-06-2016, 05:21 PM   #104
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Just got done reading entire thread, solid work again Dave!

I am contemplating another van build...really want 4x4, but don't want another Sprinter!

Looking forward to seeing your van complete!
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Old 11-06-2016, 05:54 PM   #105
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

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Originally Posted by Frosty_1 View Post
Just got done reading entire thread, solid work again Dave!

I am contemplating another van build...really want 4x4, but don't want another Sprinter!

Looking forward to seeing your van complete!
Glad to see you back. I do not need a 4x4 but if I did it would be either a Quigly or Quadvan on the Transit. Similar in cost to the Sprinter 4x4 but with readily available stock Ford parts.

Thanks for the compliment. I am posting the info as a resource for others. Do realize that what I have done may not be suitable for others. We each have are own requirements.

This conversion is harder than the first Sprinter conversion. Work never seems to end. Should be neat if I ever get it done. I am far enough along that it can be used. Have spent 30-40 nights in it so far.
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Old 11-18-2016, 05:16 PM   #106
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

The electrical wiring is all done with "SO" cords. Used 14/3 for 120 volt AC and 12/2 or 16/2 for 12 volt DC.

Exceptions were 12/3 for 15 amp shore power and 14/2 for roof vent.

SO cords are much easier to run than conduit and wire. Mine are all run outside the wall behind or in the cabinets or floor. Cabinets are 15 series 80/20 so the neat 80/20 cable mounting block part # 12316 was used extensively. Mounting block pushes into the slot and then turned 90 degrees. Has slots for a cable tie. All wiring except the roof fan is accessible.
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File Type: jpg 100_1488.JPG (92.3 KB, 222 views)
File Type: jpg 100_1489.JPG (90.7 KB, 207 views)
File Type: jpg 100_1490.JPG (119.0 KB, 203 views)
File Type: jpg 100_1491.JPG (129.9 KB, 203 views)
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Old 01-21-2017, 04:54 PM   #107
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Just made another change to the electrical design. Mounted two duplex receptacle next to each other to provide two choices of 120 volt power for the shower water electric heater. They are mounted above the shower. The shower water electric heater has a 3 prong cord. I can plug it into the duplex receptacle powered by the vehicle engine powered inverter or plug it into the duplex receptacle that is powered by the house battery/inverter.

If I use the vehicle powered inverter then the engine needs to be running. If use the house battery powered inverter then the engine does not need to be running. I can use the house battery powered inverter if the weather conditions permit. Heating the 5 gallons of shower water will take about 30 minutes and use up about 10% of my 255 amp-hr battery capacity. That is OK if the sun is expected to shine that day.
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File Type: jpg ODJ127-08.jpg (124.7 KB, 183 views)
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:27 PM   #108
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

The electrical diagram has had a few minor changes:
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File Type: pdf ODJ127-37A.pdf (395.9 KB, 45 views)
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Old 01-25-2017, 04:47 PM   #109
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Graphite Dave,

I've moved over here so as not to get embroiled on the other thread.

I have begun looking at your grounding and am still working things out.

I did come across something that has me a feeling the need to proceed very carefully. In the SAMLEX inverter manual it states that what they have choosen to call "neutral" is connected to ground at the GFCI socket of the inverter.

Now your diagram shows you switching both sides of the AC circuit from the inverter so it looks like when you are on shore power neutral and ground will not be connected - that is crucial!

If you had only switched the hot side (as in conventional house subpanels) there could be a dangerous situation.

I still have not identified if the chassis ground lug on the SAMLEX shares the "AC GROUND" on the SAMLEX GFCI plug socket.

Also, because that SAMLEX AC ground is connected at the output, it is no longer truly floating or 100% isolated.

If you know and understand all of the following you can ignore it, but please read the XANTREX pdf and Aqua Puttana's electric shock post links in the other thread. Here is another as well:

http://beamalarm.com/Documents/120_vac_in_your_rv.html
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Old 01-25-2017, 05:55 PM   #110
Graphite Dave
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Default Re: Orton DIY Transit

Thanks.

I sort of understand. Do not believe my wiring connects the ground to the neutral.

The house Magnum inverter is installed and wired. I have the Samlex installed but not yet wired. Neither of the two inverter's ground lugs are connected to anything. Both inverters are bolted to the 80/20 aluminum framework and the aluminum framework is bolted to the van body at only one location. So I have the metal inverter casings grounded to the chassis. Someone said the ground lug on the inverters is there if you bolt the inverters to a wood wall which then requires the ground lug to be used to ground the case.

The 12 volt DC is not grounded. Two wires to every load. House battery negative is not connected to the chassis.

The sold Sprinter was wired the same as the diagram. The Sprinter had a 600 watt Xantrex. System worked well. I could run the engine, turn on the Xantrex and power the charger in the Magnum.
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