EGR replacement cost at MB dealer.

lindenengineering said:

Guys
I see from time to time people have problems with EGR cross over tubes and the EGR thread tear outs.

Both of these issues can be found on both end castings of the EGR cooler housings and end castings.

Being very soft alum alloy AND expensive to replace, thread recovery should be with Timesert inserts NOT helicoils as previously suggested .

Ostensibly the helicoil tap in question cuts the threaded pocket at the risk of galling and clogging of the thread cutting due to swarf (chips) displaced by the tooling. Besides it cannot by its profile cut a bottoming thread which is essential.

Hence a forming tap which should be in these application (6x1mm), allows displacement of material to form the thread and is much stronger, thus resisting tear out in service.
This same thread forming was used on production of the MB component in question.

As a footnote the Mueller Verzueg glow plug removal & cutting tool kit is provided with forming taps! In short extension tools to reform the threaded holes for glow plug insertion and assured retention.
Thread Taps and their uses:-
Dennis

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IREuXD2eSO8

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lindenengineering said:

dirksgoat
Hi
Well we too usually use a standard thread tap for "most" thread or component recovery, but there are exceptions and these EGR end cooler castings are the exception.
Made of a very soft alum alloy they don't take kindly to simply taking a normal thread tap to them.
Add a dose of carelessness and you can easily wreck the component, and its around $950 to replace it plus labor & materials .
What is normally about a 1,5 hours job to replace an EGR tube now becomes a 5 hour exercise and then being much more expensive to correct an exhaust gas leak and driveability issue.
The usual comment is frequent EGR cross over tube flange leakage, gasket failure, or in fact detachment of the end of the tube as a customer complaint.

All too frequently come across stripped out threads in the the back casting.
Its clear that you MUST start each and ALL 6 mm bolts FIRST before even attempting to snug them up.

Now stripped out threads.
Yes you can use a helicoil insert but due to their fixed length they are either too short or too long. Both situations present their own problems, holding the bolt & insert in place arduous conditions & stay in place permanently .

The Timesert insert is preferred by far.
Being solid threaded sleeve and not a virtual coil spring, & you can custom cut the insert with a die grinder to the depth of the work piece.
If you use a forming tap and then subsequently employing the swage tool in the kit possibly with some Loctite retention compound you can guarantee a permanent fix.

Forming taps can be obtained from Morse Tap suppliers but you do need to heed the drilling prep holes more diligently than the more tolerant cutting tap sized/prep holes. Using purpose cutting lube is strongly recommended, but in an inverted position like that EGR cross over tube I always use cutting wax on the tools to avoid galling etc.
My experience on marine applications is limited I confess . In my youth as an engineering apprentice I did work on motorized fuel barges and some pleasure craft .
But yes corrosion is a big issue on anything maritime.
Thanks for the post and best regards
Dennis

a timesert insert:-
https://www.google.com/search?q=ima...rome..69i57.8740j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


A helicoil insert:-
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1....0i71j0i13j0i7i30j0i13i10j0i13i30.dfuc1UZVzhM

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Peter Pres said:

Hi Had valve fail due to plastic piece between the actuator and egr valve
Dealers wanted $1500 NZ Dollars for full replacement part
Sourced plastic component on EBay from Repairkitparts $18 NZ
Can’t understand why you have to replace whole valve and actuator when all that’s needed is the plastic coupling
Hope this helps
2010 Sprinter W906 model

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