DIY version of Outside Van bed panel frames?

LooseRocks

Active member
You could but I wouldn't. The epoxy and aluminum is going to be strong enough. You're now relying on the surface strength of that plywood. I probably will be ok for a while but will likely fail over time. Why not just add a couple of carriage bolts? You could do that and the epoxy.
 

lukedog

Why Dogs Fly
You could but I wouldn't. The epoxy and aluminum is going to be strong enough. You're now relying on the surface strength of that plywood. I probably will be ok for a while but will likely fail over time. Why not just add a couple of carriage bolts? You could do that and the epoxy.

I was thinking about attaching the clamp directly to the bed frame tube. No plywood strength involved. I just don't have much experience using high strength adhesives



 

LooseRocks

Active member
If you use the correct epoxy and are meticulous with the surface preparation I don’t see a problem. Just know that if you do use the correct epoxy and are meticulous with surface preparation it’s pretty much a permanent bond. I epoxied some poolside coping to a swimming pool before. That’s bonding concrete to concrete surfaces. It was pretty much permanent. That coping was there for over 15 years until they eventually tore the pool out.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
metal to metal bonding would be fine. How much surface area is the bond going to be?

DP420 or EC2216 would be good options. High strength and good bond to aluminum. Follow the recommended procedure for bonding bare aluminum.

CA glues are also a good option for bonding flat metal surfaces. 3M CA4 or CA40 would be good choices, with strength equivalent to a medium strength epoxy.
 

Inertiaman

Well-known member
Hey Inertiaman, how did your platform build turn out? Is it in a different thread?
I've slept soundly on it the past 15 nights and haven't heard a squeak during travel, so I guess it worked out OK. I've got a bunch of photos at home that I intend to put into a build thread (which I also intend to get around to starting) but haven't posted much yet.

I have vertical L track bolted through curve-adapting nylon shims to rivnuts in the C and D pillars. Attached to that L track is 1.5"x4" aluminum channel (overkill structurally but good fit dimensionally) as rails. Then three panel fframes I TIG welded myself of 1" .125" wall square aluminum tube. Themo-lite (fiberglass infused urethane foam) panel surfaces mounted to aluminum frames via 3M tape. For attachment to rails, I used a downward-facing rivnut in the tube near each corner of each panel, into which is thread a knob-stud from below through an oversized hole in the rails. I have a short rubber elastomer between the knob-stud and the rail, which together with the oversized holes provides some minimal movement for the panels while still holding them snug w/o rattles. Oh, and .100" rubber on top of rails, under panel edges.

I have two 30"x77" Thermarest Dreamtime mattresses strapped onto the top. 3" of thermarest + 1" of memory foam = pretty luxurious comfort. I like the thick Thermarests, you can dial in your preferred firm-to-soft surface pretty precisely via air pressure.

I'd do it a bit different if I did it again, but that's the nature of the DIY conversion activity . . .
 

ddunaway

Active member
I've slept soundly on it the past 15 nights and haven't heard a squeak during travel, so I guess it worked out OK. I've got a bunch of photos at home that I intend to put into a build thread (which I also intend to get around to starting) but haven't posted much yet.

I have vertical L track bolted through curve-adapting nylon shims to rivnuts in the C and D pillars. Attached to that L track is 1.5"x4" aluminum channel (overkill structurally but good fit dimensionally) as rails. Then three panel fframes I TIG welded myself of 1" .125" wall square aluminum tube. Themo-lite (fiberglass infused urethane foam) panel surfaces mounted to aluminum frames via 3M tape. For attachment to rails, I used a downward-facing rivnut in the tube near each corner of each panel, into which is thread a knob-stud from below through an oversized hole in the rails. I have a short rubber elastomer between the knob-stud and the rail, which together with the oversized holes provides some minimal movement for the panels while still holding them snug w/o rattles. Oh, and .100" rubber on top of rails, under panel edges.

I have two 30"x77" Thermarest Dreamtime mattresses strapped onto the top. 3" of thermarest + 1" of memory foam = pretty luxurious comfort. I like the thick Thermarests, you can dial in your preferred firm-to-soft surface pretty precisely via air pressure.

I'd do it a bit different if I did it again, but that's the nature of the DIY conversion activity . . .
How many welds?
 

sgmullins

New member
Anyone know if ATV ramp dimensions are measured from the end of the little legs that hook on the truck bed or if the dimensions are of the actual ramp frame?

I am worried that if I get a 68" long ramp, after cutting the legs off to use as a bed, it will be too short to span the width of the sprinter.
 

ECU

2006 T1n 118 Sprinter
I picked up the Harbor Freight one. Removed the 'legs' and added 3/4" paneling on each side of the van. Now the fit is so tight that it is hard to move them in to place. So without the legs, you'll have an inch and a half to spare in a T1n.
 

sgmullins

New member
So based on what you said, it sounds like the measurements are taken from the frame and not the added on legs. That's great! thanks
 

slamit

www.cacampervan.com
This bed can be done at home with standard tools. Materials can be sourced at home supply and upholstery shop. Panels won't flex if built this way; use reinforcement ribs or metal c channel sandwiching the panels. Mattress used is made out of custom memory foam pads on top with covers. The cubbies use the dead space and also minimize the bridge of the panels. I built versions of this type of bed with or without the cubbies on many different vans I have owned and even do them occasional for those whom don't have the time, tools, or ability to do it themselves. They work really well and can be built in a few days w/o the mattress. Easily can hold 400-500 lbs if done right. For the most part you just need a saw(s). Metal bed frame is nice also, but this is the way to go if you don't want to do any welding and powder coating and the functionality is even better. Can be done for under $1000 in materials including the custom mattress pad(s) costs with upholstery. www.cacampervan.com

bed.JPG

cubbies.JPG
 
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Bshred

New member
The issue I have with the ramp is the width. I'm looking at the trifold and I believe it's 3 sections of 15 inches each, giving a total width of 45 inches. I'd like to have around 60 inches, so I'd have to buy two.

I was thinking of using 1 inch aluminum square tubing with 1 inch foam sandwiched between 1/4 inch plywood. The price for the tubing is $70, enough to do two 6 ft x 2.5 ft sections.

I also decided to make the platform height adjustable. I played around with some 8020 this morning and mounted it vertically to the bulkhead. I had some 1.5 inch aluminum square tubing so I used that for the horizontal platform support.



I attached the square tubing to the 8020 with a rivnut in the tubing to tighten it to the angle bracket.

Any reason you didn't want to attach the rail to the sheet metal I see in the photos? What was the purpose of the additional sheet metal straps?

Sent from my VS820 using Tapatalk
 

aram marks

New member
I eventually used 80/20 on the cargo walls to replace the e-track. This gave me endless options for mounting a bed! 1,000s of ways you can mount a bed with 80/20. You could even just make 80/20 panels like outside van and set them on top of the 80/20 side rails. (Put some sort of stop to keep them from sliding forward when you don't want)



Upper and lower rails mounted to the van before the insulation and panels





Low mounting position and panels slid into the 80/20 slots.

I'd be grateful if you could explain how the 80/20 rails are attached to the van wall. I'm exploring using this material myself, and am a total novice (as is likely apparent from this question). I don't get how you can use this system when the attachment is blind as in this application.

Any clarification greatly appreciated!

Best regards,
Aram
 

Cole

OUTLAW SPRINTER!!!
I'd be grateful if you could explain how the 80/20 rails are attached to the van wall. I'm exploring using this material myself, and am a total novice (as is likely apparent from this question). I don't get how you can use this system when the attachment is blind as in this application.

Any clarification greatly appreciated!

Best regards,
Aram
On a T1N you can just through bolt it with carriage bolts.
 

RVBarry

2023 AWD 170 DIY CamperVan
I'm having a hard time picturing this but am interested in the process. Any pics of this?
Hi, you'd put the square head of the carriage bolts into the back of the 8020 rails, drill holes through the van, and put washers and locknuts on the other side of the holes.
Looks like there's plenty of room to get a wrench in there in the pics.
 

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