$50 Backup Camera and Screen Install

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
I have been posting for a while how great/inexpensive my screen and camera setup is, I figured I might as well do a basic write up on it for the T1N. I have installed quite a few of these, and the install is pretty much the same no matter what size or year T1N you have.
I also had someone PM me to ask some specific questions, so it seemed like a good idea to do a complete write up.
Here is the Screen: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/
Here is the Camera: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CTKYB4/
I also like these "piggyback" connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFMHM/

Order the parts linked and you will also need two 10ft sections of 16guage wiring, two different colors. Red and yellow are good. I like to use these "piggyback" connectors to tap into existing power lines: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFMHM/
The camera just needs a positive and negative hookup. Solid Brown wires in the Sprinter are almost always (negative) ground.
You will have to drill a small hole for the camera wire to pass through the brake light. I like to do it on the side, down low so there is little chance of water getting in. (see photo) A little silicone around the hole seals it up, too. You will have to drill a hole in the silver bulb surround to get the wires inside. I wrapped the wires in tinfoil to keep them from getting too hot next to the brake light bulb. Once inside, you can access the camera wiring and brake light wiring from the 2 holes above the back doors.(see photo) Use the blue piggyback to tap the camera negative into the brake light negative. Use the extra 10' red wire to connect to the positive wire of the camera. I run it over to the passenger side tail light, snaking it under the headliner and own inside the corner pillar. Unhook the backside of the tail light circuit board. Turn on the parking lights and see which bulb turns on. Trace the lines back to wire and put a piggyback on that wire, connecting it to the red positive from the camera (see the photos- my wire was white, not red) This will allow you to turn the camera off and on with the lights. If you want it only to turn on in reverse, just find which wire is the reverse light wire and tap into that one. I personally have it hooked up to the tail light because I want it always on when I'm driving.
The only other wire off the camera is the A/V wire. I run it over to the rear passenger corner and then along the roof edge with other wires towards the front of the Sprinter.(see where my finger is pointing in the photo) You can hook it into the channel that they are hooked into. The A/V wire that comes with the camera (or maybe its the screen) will make it all the way from the back to the front of the Sprinter.
Take the dome/reading light (located right above the rear view mirror) out and (here's one of the hardest parts) you have to use a "fish" to get the A/V wire from the top of the slider door/back of cab above the headliner and dangling out through the hole where the dome light goes.
DO NOT CONNECT THE SCREEN WIRING through this hole. Just use it for easy access. (see the photo) The fat, black wiring bundle that comes with the screen should go out of the headliner at the windshield.
I use the positive and negative from the dome light to power the screen. Just use your multimeter to find which wire is always on and piggyback the red wire from the screen into that. The black wire piggybacks into the brown/ground wire to the light. The last wire (I think it's blue) on the screen is the hardest. You have to connect it to a wire that only turns on with the key. The easiest wire I have found is the one leading to the radio. To do this, you have to snake it across the headliner to the passenger side, take off the A pillar and snake it under there, and then go behind the glove box over to the radio wiring. It helps to take the glove box out and also to remove the center grill/vent control to access the stereo wiring. I don't remember which wire it is, but it's often yellow (but Mercedes often does it's own thing). Use a multimeter to figure it out. (see my photo)
After that, you can decide how you want to attach everything. I never permanently attach the camera or screen until I have it all hooked up and see that it's working and all my angles are the way I want them to be.
Hope this helps.
 

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nutterbutter

2004 LTV Free Spirit T1N
Where did you install your screen?

What is the best way to attach the screen to the headliner? Rivnuts?

I'm thinking of installing behind the fold down sun shades.
 

nutterbutter

2004 LTV Free Spirit T1N
I finally got my camera installed.

I struggled for quite some time trying to get power up to the third brake light. My Free Spirit is so built out there wasn't a way I could route power from the rear tail light up around corner. The cabinets got in the way of getting into that area. I experimented with running a wire from the cab all the way back (also to run a video cable), but with the roof AC, fantastic fan, and the way the ceiling was up, it proved too difficult.

I finally grabbed power from the license plate lights, and drilled into the top of the left (driver's side) rear door. It's is pretty close to center, and I used gray butyl tape from West Marine between the camera and door to create a water tight seal. I have a LOT of tape left from installing a new porch light. The camera is wireless, and has an external antenna, so signal is very good up to the cab. I purchased one of those 'truck' backup camera kits you see on Amazon/Ebay.

It's a good alternate wire routing/camera location with very easy access to lights on power.

I might have experimented more with the third brake light like you did, but I also found out there was a crack in the plastic already, so I decided to leave it.
 

SkyGypsy

Member
Thanks Type2Teach.

This post is a bit old now, but do you have pictures of the screen install or maybe a good link to a screen you recommend?

Thanks again!
 

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
I don't have a photo off hand, but I just use regular coarse thread 1/2 ling drywall screws and screw the mount in upside down to the headliner. It's fairly thick and has held all of the screens I have installed for years. One thing I may have forgotten to mention: you have to remove your useless rear view mirror to get the screen in a good visible spot.
 

Brian.

New member
Or just use one that mounts to the mirror. This is what I bought/am using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005I7UQ4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As my first in-car camera system, I'm pleased enough (and thanks to Type2Teach for the initial post, it was what I found while searching and more-or-less followed).

If I were to use the headliner for support, I'd personally put some sort of backing up there (plastic that's thick enough to be just on the edge of not flexible, a sheet of aluminum, maybe some 1/4" ply) so the screws were driving into That and the pulling force were distributed over a larger area, you pretty much assure no chance of pulling out the fasteners by doing so. The headliner is just pressed foam/fibers, mine is crumbling around the edges, maybe not needed but that's my own personal gut instinct.
 

GSWatson

2013 144
I have pretty much the same clip-on for my rear view, and it works great. At some point, when I can find a rear view camera that's not much of a fish-eye, I'll use the second input for a regular rear view. For now, the reflection off the screen when it's off works like night mode on a regular mirror.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

SkyGypsy

Member
Awesome post! Thanks Type2Teach. I ran mine this way but then decided to run mine as a backup camera only, triggered by reverse.

To anyone reading this, I did this by connecting the RED wire from the camera to the reverse light, and then connecting the RED wire from the monitor end of the camera's A/V cable to the GREEN/BLUE wire (trigger wire) on the monitor. I then connected the RED wire on the monitor to my ignition wire (the one that was previously connected to the GREEN/BLUE wire).

By doing this the camera now turns on with and is powered by the key, and the monitor only comes on when in reverse. I did this because I used a monitor that clips on to my rear view and I still want to be able to use it to see out of while driving.
 

Burza

Member
I have been posting for a while how great/inexpensive my screen and camera setup
Here is the Screen: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SLDF7O/
Here is the Camera: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CTKYB4/
I also like these "piggyback" connectors: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFMHM/
It would be helpful to others coming across this build thread later on to have model info than a link as external links go bad after a few months.

They can always google a model number, a broken link is just useless.
 

psychoboy

05&06 Dodge Longs & Talls
as with anything Chinese on amazon.....there are a million brand names and model numbers and sellers for the same basic item.

the camera looks like this:



the screen looks like this:


and the piggyback connectors look like this:


I embedded my camera in my third brake light lens (because it already didn't work and a brake light 9 feet in the air is the epitome of useless), and I screwed my screen's supplied base into the flat bit of my headliner (I originally tried to use the doubleside sticky..but the heat killed it). I ran all my wiring down the passenger side channel (where the roof meets the side) and tapped the power to a key-on circuit for a full time camera (solid partition makes the back door windows useless).
 
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