Dimmer switch for upper cabinet lighting in Unity?

Danarbor

2017/2018 Unity Twin Bed
Has anyone installed a dimmer switch to replace the toggle switch for the upper cabinet lighting on their Unity? And if so, was it fairly easy to do? It's nice having the upper cabinet lighting but it would be even better if you could adjust the lighting down a bit as you can with the other coach lighting.
 
Last edited:

Klipstr

2018 Wonder FTB
Here is one I found:

http://jrproducts.net/index.php/catalog/load_product_list/Electrical/Dimmer Switches/

White! Did not find a black one but perhaps a call to JR Products will provide joy. I think this one is like the one you already have in your rig. If no luck on your own perhaps a call to LTV to see if they can tell you the source or even sell you one. I think the install should be pretty easy. The hole for the existing switch might work or you might need to change it a bit but again not too difficult...

There are several other options for an LED dimmer switch but I figured having one like the one you already have makes the most sense...
 

SSTraveler

2014 LTV Unity Murphy Bed
I recall others on this forum who have tried adding dimmers and ran into problems because LTV puts all the grounds together so it is very difficult to find the wire sets for each group of lights to be placed on a dimmer. They ended up having to run separate grounds to run the new dimmer switches. Do some searches and research before you order the new dimmers.
 

Danarbor

2017/2018 Unity Twin Bed
Thank you, Klipstr, aarpskier and SSTRAVELER for your responses. I contacted EEE and spoke with Alex, the electrical designer for the LTV units, and Alex indicated it is possible to change out the toggle switch for the upper cabinet lights with a dimmer switch. Alex said it would likely require putting the switch in a different location as the new switch may not fit in the spot where the existing switch is located and that the new switch has to be a "positive side" dimming switch.

I then spoke with Darrell in the EEE warranty department and Darrell sent me a link to American Technology Components, the company EEE sources their switches from, and the switch he felt would work. As it turns out it "looks" like the same switch Klipstr and then aarpskier found. I contacted ATC and spoke with their tech support and I was able to confirm the switch, model #SI-SLD1-5-HS001, is a positive side dimmer. I also got pricing for the switch which is $35 plus handling and shipping. The handling is only $.88 and shipping would depend on where it's being shipped. I'm not 100% sure I'll pursue changing out the toggle switch for the dimmer switch since I'm not excited about cutting a hole in my coach for the new switch but at least I now know that it can be done and what the cost of the switch will be. If I knew for sure that the dimmer switch would fit in the existing location I would likely do it since being able to dim the upper cabinet lights for around $40 would create a little warmer environment when watching a movie when all of the other ceiling lights are off. I'm including the link to the switch in the event anyone wants to pursue this small tweak to their coach lighting. And if anyone does decide to change out the switch please let us know how it worked out just as I will let you know if I decide to do it.

https://www.atcomp.com/product/si-sld1-5-hs001/
 

Klipstr

2018 Wonder FTB
Gotta get over the fear of cutting holes! You can probably get a sense of the hole cutting by removing the toggle and then the dimmer and see what the two holes look like. I'm guessing might be more surface mount than hole as these switches have bezels...
 

Danarbor

2017/2018 Unity Twin Bed
Gotta get over the fear of cutting holes! You can probably get a sense of the hole cutting by removing the toggle and then the dimmer and see what the two holes look like. I'm guessing might be more surface mount than hole as these switches have bezels...
Excellent point, Klipstr! I haven't completely closed out the possibility of pursuing changing out the toggle switch with a dimmer switch. As I stated in my last post I'll report back if I decide to move forward with what should be a fairly simple project.
 

alichty

2014 LTV Unity TB
The first hole you cut will be the hardest. Subsequent modifications are much less traumatic once you get past that first one :cheers:
 

aarpskier

2017 LTV Unity FX
The first hole you cut will be the hardest. Subsequent modifications are much less traumatic once you get past that first one :cheers:
Not to hijack this thread, but before cutting or drilling, first look on the backside of your chosen surface (if possible). I was about ready to bore a hole to mount an interior Truma switch in the control panel above the entry door when I thought it might be a good idea to see there was any wiring in the way. I discovered that LTV already had a number of partially cut through holes, of different shapes, in the panel. One, of course, perfect for the Truma switch.
 

alichty

2014 LTV Unity TB
Not to hijack this thread, but before cutting or drilling, first look on the backside of your chosen surface (if possible). I was about ready to bore a hole to mount an interior Truma switch in the control panel above the entry door when I thought it might be a good idea to see there was any wiring in the way. I discovered that LTV already had a number of partially cut through holes, of different shapes, in the panel. One, of course, perfect for the Truma switch.
Totally correct - and once you do start exploring things like this you will discover that there are a lot of ways to access almost any wiring that has connectors on it. LTV did build these with the notion that at some point maintenance will have to be done and there needs to be a way to get to things. LTV is pretty clever about how they got everything to fit but that also comes back to aarpskier's point - make sure you know everything you can about what you are about to do and what you might hit if you put your drill bit in the wrong place.
 

Danarbor

2017/2018 Unity Twin Bed
"the first cut is the deepest..." Cat Stevens
Ha, I thought of that song too!

Okay, since I started this thread I may as well share what I've discovered to date. The toggle switch for the upper cabinet lighting is contained within the bracket that also houses the switches for the entry/outdoor light, the storage bay light and the step immobilizer switch. Since I have yet to figure out how to resize photos I've created an album with photos showing the bracket I'm referring to as well as photos showing where the wire connections are for each of the switches. It was fairly easy to get to where the wires are by gently prying the silver cover plates off of the bracket exposing the screws that allowed me to pull the bracket away from the wall. As I've stated this small tweak is not worth me making "the first cut" but if I can find a way to make the new dimmer switch fit within the existing bracket I would likely move forward with the project. Based on what I can see on ATC's website it looks like the dimmer switch could fit in the existing bracket with a little modification of the bracket to accommodate the slider. SSTRAVELER mentioned in her post that others have had challenge grounding dimmers they wanted to install and I'm wondering if the bundle of wires behind the bracket might provide for that? So this may be...to use a wordplay on Shakespeare..."Much Ado About Nothing"...other than that I may have too much time on my hands! I've included a link to the photo album I referenced and the link to the dimmer switch I believe will work for anyone that may also be interested in putting a dimmer switch on their upper cabinet lights. This would of course not be necessary if LTV had just put these lights on a dimmer switch right out of the gate!!!

Photos of switches:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/album.php?albumid=728

Dimmer switch option:

https://www.atcomp.com/product/si-sld1-5-hs001/
 

aarpskier

2017 LTV Unity FX
Disclaimer: My knowledge of electrical circuitry falls at the very bottom of my skillset.

You said in your earlier post that this is a "positive side dimmer". Doesn't that mean you do not need to worry about the ground? From you pictures, it looks like there are two wires for the original switch. Wouldn't you just attach the new slider switch to the same two wires?

Toughest part of this project may be cutting the slider slot, or widening the existing opening to accomplish the slider. However, you've got me hooked, so I just added this to my ToDo list!
 

Danarbor

2017/2018 Unity Twin Bed
Disclaimer: My knowledge of electrical circuitry falls at the very bottom of my skillset.

You said in your earlier post that this is a "positive side dimmer". Doesn't that mean you do not need to worry about the ground? From you pictures, it looks like there are two wires for the original switch. Wouldn't you just attach the new slider switch to the same two wires?

Toughest part of this project may be cutting the slider slot, or widening the existing opening to accomplish the slider. However, you've got me hooked, so I just added this to my ToDo list!
Like you, aarpskier, my knowledge of electrical circuitry has much room for improvement so I'm not sure if the fact that the required switch has to be a "positive side dimmer" obviates the need for a ground?? This will be easy enough to ascertain with a little research. What I do know is that the dimmer switch that I believe will work has three wires so that's what lead me to assume the need for a ground. As for modifying the existing bracket to accommodate the dimming slide I believe a skilled hand with a Dremel tool should do the trick. So, I encourage you to get right on this project and let me know how it worked out.
 

aarpskier

2017 LTV Unity FX
The link you previously posted depicts 2 wires and is described as "hi-side." AT also has a white switch, with three wires, which is described as "lo-side."
 

Danarbor

2017/2018 Unity Twin Bed
The link you previously posted depicts 2 wires and is described as "hi-side." AT also has a white switch, with three wires, which is described as "lo-side."
Hello aarpskier! I double checked the link I posted about the dimmer switch that Darrell from EEE sent me and it is in fact a three wire switch; black, red & white. It may be hard to tell from the picture of the switch since the white wire does blend in with the background. The description of the switch also references it being a 3-Wire Installation. I'm not sure what the difference is between the hi-side and lo-side switches; once again demonstrating my lack of knowledge regarding electrical circuitry. What I do know is that when I spoke with a tech at ATC he confirmed the model number of the switch that Darrell sent me was a 'positive side" switch, which is what Alex from EEE told me would need to be used. To better understand the difference between hi-side and lo-side switches I decided to do a quick web query and I came up with this:

https://electronics.stackexchange.c...-between-high-and-low-side-switching-of-power

After reading about the difference between the two switches I realize why I'm not and electrical engineer! :thinking:

Subsequent to my last post on this topic I pulled the existing bracket out further from the wall and on closer inspection I found that the bracket and switches contained within the bracket are a molded one piece prefabbed unit that the electrical connections plug into. So the idea of trying to simply pop out the current upper cabinet lighting toggle switch and put a dimmer switch in its place will not work. So for me the only decision to be made is do I want to change the aesthetic of the coach entry wall where the current switches are by placing the dimmer switch above or below the existing bank of switches??? My concern about cutting into the wall to install the switch has diminished since Klipstr reminded me that "The First Cut is The Deepest". :laughing:
 

SSTraveler

2014 LTV Unity Murphy Bed
I finally got tired of the excessively bright Bathroom, Kitchen, and TV cabinets lights so I installed dimmers. I bought what are called high side dimmers, these are good for applications where the typical wiring for lights aren't available. In the case of our Leisure's, each light isn't separately grounded. So this means that in order to add a dimmer switch you must bring a ground wire (battery/chassis ground) to the original switch location. I ordered these dimmer lights from American Technology, https://www.amazon.com/American-Technology-Components-Halogen-Incandescent/dp/B079TJTP1W/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2GKJTSUBNM86O&dchild=1&keywords=american+technology+rv+switch&qid=1628677679&sprefix=American+technology+rv+switch,aps,556&sr=8-2. I like them because the dimmer slide is small and integrated into the switch. I started with the Kitchen lights switch because I had previously abandoned the old electric Murphy Bed switch, so this gave me easy access to a ground wire. Leisure uses a white wire to denote that it is a ground. I just cut the white wire off the old electric Murphy bed switch plug for use with my new dimmer. I made a cutout template from painters tape that I peeled off and reused from switch to switch. To cut the hole larger I just used a sharp utility knife to score the cutout, then snapped it out with a pair of pliers, and trimmed up the opening until the switch fit nicely. Test the dimmer switch operation before you make the final connections, because it isn't apparent which of the 2 yellow wires is the one that goes back to the battery. So if you test it and it doesn't seem to work switch the yellow wires and verify it works. I used this diagram as my guide, but a diagram does comewith the switch.
Screenshot_20210725-133551_Gallery.jpg
I used this vinyl wall covering to covee the old Murphy Bed switch hole off, https://www.amazon.com/d-c-fix-346-0219-Decorative-Self-Adhesive-Maple/dp/B002TDVPCI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1O16K4QFDIR62&dchild=1&keywords=dc+fix+maple&qid=1628679101&sprefix=Dc+fix+ma,aps,301&sr=8-2.
inCollage_20210811_064044958.jpg
I did the bathroom next because I knew it would be easy for me to pull a ground from my old inverter battery ground since I abandoned it in place under my wardrobe. I just drilled up through the corner of the wardrobe and then over to the bathroom switch location. I actually pulled a 16 awg wire pair just in case I need a 12vdc power connection in the future.
inCollage_20210811_070358727.jpg
I saved the tv cabinet light switch for last since I knew it would be hardest. When I lifted up the upper cabinet floor I could see a white wire that seemed to be going to the lights so I thought I could just tap off that for a ground but that didn't pan out, not a true ground. So I decided to pull my microwave and use some abandoned wires I abandoned from an old outside temperature guage. I just drilled a hole from the upper cabinet into the microwave cabinet and it came out in the perfect location for the wire pair connections I had. Again I pulled a wire pair in case I ever needed a 12vdc supply in that general location.
inCollage_20210811_072633858.jpg 20210810_094336_resized.jpg
 
Last edited:

SSTraveler

2014 LTV Unity Murphy Bed
Having done a number of electrical upgrades, studying the breaker box grounding, and Leisure wiring diagrams. I found that Leisure grounds the 120vAC breaker box ground bar, the one the bare ground wires are attached to, to the chassis frame with a #8 stranded wire. So if you do the above dimmer upgrade you can actually use the bare wire connection of an outlet that might be nearby the dimmer switch location. In my installation above, this knowledge would have made my dimmer installation above the TV cabinet much easier than the route I went. You still need to come up with a creative way to connect to the bare wire of the outlet to run a ground wire for the dimmer switch installation. The 120vAC outlets that Leisure uses are called Wirecon speed outlets and the 120vAC solid copper wires are pressed into the outlet electrical connector design.
Screenshot_20220721-054600_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited:

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Although it's usually may appear safe to "share the ground wire" between the 12vdc and 120vac systems, it's really not a great idea.
If somthing goes wrong with a gadget plugged into that 120vac outlet, it could lead to 120vac being connected to the "ground" wire.
That makes one end of it 120vac, and the other end "zero" (or, on inverter, possibly 60 vac).

Until the breaker or GFCI pops, that 120vac is being connected to whatever 12vdc device is "sharing" the wire ... which may propagate "upstream" to other 12vdc devices on that circuit or (indeed) positive bus bar.

Running a "private" ground for the 12vdc lights avoids that. The two "grounds" only meet at the zero volt end of the 8 gauge wire.

--dick
 

Top Bottom