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Sprinter RV's & Conversions Talk Common features found in Sprinter RV's and Conversions.


 
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Old 04-17-2019, 03:22 PM   #11
hein
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Default Re: Thinsulate floor - securing problem

Great discussion. Experiencing challenges, problems and related frustration is a good way for everyone to learn how to refine our van building methods and processes. We are fortunate to have some great problem solvers on this forum. Thank you all for you ideas and input.

I always ask van builders if they want to raise their floor for added insulation value and the answer is most always "No". Maybe they want to have as much head room as possible for a more open feel. Or do not want an elevated ridge from the cab or deal with building thresholds by the doors.

If using Thinsulate(TM) AU4002-5, it is essential that the floor be constructed as one continuous sheet. I would recommend that for all floors regardless of the insulation used. There are a variety of methods that can be used to join the pieces. Lap or scarf joints, H-channel, biscuits, etc.

We use PVC furring strips and blocks so they don't absorb moisture. Wood can be used as long as it is sealed or otherwise treated to prevent moisture absorption. PVC is easy to attach to the metal with 3M VHB tape. The furring strips or blocks do need to be thick enough to directly support the floor. We only use them around the perimeter and as blocks where cabinets or other items are through bolted (penetrating the metal too) to secure them. There is no need to run screws into the furring strips because the floor in a Sprinter should be secured with bolts into the OEM cargo hold down threads. PVC does actually hold screws well but you need to use stainless drywall type (deck) screws. Not wood or sheet metal screws. Through bolting is a better solution.

I hope that answers some of the questions and clears up some confusion regarding our floor strategy using Thinsulate(TM) AU4002-5. We also have minicell foam which is more supportive but the strategy for installing is not much different. The need for furring strips is less, however. I would encourage anyone to call or write should they need more assistance or have additional questions.

All the best,
Hein
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Last edited by hein; 04-17-2019 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:55 PM   #12
gltrimble
 
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Default Thinsulate floor - securing problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert-NE View Post
The raw interior of the high roof Sprinters is about 76" from top of floor ribs to bottom of roof ribs, which leaves 5" of headroom for a 6'1" tall person before finish. You are telling us that 5" additional space doesn't allow for even 1/2" of insulation? Not trying to be snippy, but it would seem to me that a total of 1" at the floor (1/2" insulation and 1/2" of sub-floor / finish floor) and 1" at the roof (strapping and finish) would still allow a 6'4" person to stand up, admittedly though probably not comfortably. But a 6'1" person should have no issues other than not being able to wear your Fedora hat inside.

Better check your math. Appears he has 3” of headroom to work with. I have an additional 1/2” of poly-iso under my factory floor and the stock headliner, leaving me with exactly 75” or 6’ 3”. Still plenty of room for someone 6’ 1” tall.


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Old 04-18-2019, 12:01 AM   #13
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Default Re: Thinsulate floor - securing problem

75.5” to 76.5” (depending where you measure- center of van or toward outside) with factory floor in a crew.

Subtract 1/2” for Adwagon roof leaves 75”. Add something for your hair and it’s tight.

I’m 6’2” and still have some of my hair which touches the roof with no thinsulate or poly on a factory floor with an Adwagon RUV ceiling.

YMMV.


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Old 04-18-2019, 01:00 AM   #14
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Default Re: Thinsulate floor - securing problem

See my post here. This was my solution for securing a floor over an insulation layer. What made it easier for me was the fact that I wanted a nice pattern of L-Track in my floor - so spacing under the L-Track (and bolting through the main floor body) not to crush the insulation made for a nice secure installation. Might give some food for thought. Apologize - haven't figured out how to directly link to post :)

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...t=73863&page=3

Last edited by mtncrawler; 04-18-2019 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 04-18-2019, 03:41 AM   #15
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Default Re: Thinsulate floor - securing problem

Thanks for the helpful replies everyone! I've been reading these as they come in and doing a lot of research this week. I'll post a proper update once I have a plan in place :)
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:22 AM   #16
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Default Re: Thinsulate floor - securing problem

I used 1” high density gym floor closed cell foam fastened with 3m spray adhesive followed by 1/2 Birch seven layer plywood with 3m spraymount, edges biscuited dry as well. Followed by Marmoleum sheet flooring. Edge at sliding door and rear door has a 1.5” metal angle with countersunk screws. Floor is quiet, dense, stays warm. Marmoleum wears INCREDIBLYwell! I am a contractor and van is used to carry tools and materials as well. I also filled voids between ribs with the foam used as sill seal material in building houses.
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:38 AM   #17
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Default Re: Thinsulate floor - securing problem

what functionality does the Birch ply layer have?

why not put the top marmoleum layer directly over the gym mat?
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