Sprinter-Forum    
 

Go Back   Sprinter-Forum > NCV3 Sprinters > NCV3 Write-Ups

NCV3 Write-Ups Help other NCV3 owners by posting your experience working on your Sprinter.


 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-16-2016, 07:05 PM   #21
flman
Triggering Snowflakes
 
flman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: America, Great Again!
Posts: 20,589
Thanks: 6,558
Thanked 5,545 Times in 4,304 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daystar View Post
Best place to get all those fluids and parts is IDParts.com. Great $4.95 shipping too.
X2 got fluid, filter, and crush washer delivered for $86.85, went with the Shell ATF134.

BTW, with 50K on my fluid pulling a heavy load, it was a little on the smelly and brown side in color, so I will be sure to get it done next time at 40K.
flman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2016, 07:25 PM   #22
CJPJ
2008 3500 170"ext. 3.0 V6
 
CJPJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Contra Costa California, Douglas County, Oregon
Posts: 4,258
Thanks: 4,277
Thanked 2,279 Times in 1,499 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daystar View Post
Best place to get all those fluids and parts is IDParts.com. Great $4.95 shipping too.
click on this.

http://www.idparts.com/
CJPJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2016, 02:43 PM   #23
Sparkx
2007 Frghtlnr Sprinter
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 47
Thanks: 22
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

I did my transmission service yesterday. 1st step was to snap my 5mm hex key off in the drain plug on the pan. I got it out using a magnet. I then got a quality 5mm socket and backed it out. lifted the transmission by backing out the 4 bolts in the crossbar then using a crowbar and leverage from.the crossbar I lifted the trans about an inch and put a stack of shims where the bolts were between the crossbar and the transmission. Worked well plenty of room to remove and replace the pan. After draing I replaced the plug so it didnt drip during pan removal. The filter has a significant snap in place then you know its on right it also has a guide pin you must set in the proper slot. Filter placement is not hard to figure out. My old one came with the pan.i located the access hole on the tc and reconcidered, I left it alone. If Mercedes doesn't go in there I'm not either. I measured 3 and 3/4 quarts drained and added 3and1/2 quarts. Cold measure is good I have to measure warm yet. I bought a fill tube that screws on a quart bottle and inserts in the dipstick tube. It drained slow so I poked a hole in the bottle (kinda llike a beer bong. And it flowed quickly. I will be draining and refilling the pan a few more times in the next few months instead of draining the tc. Thank you to all who post their experience here,I read alot of them before taking on the trans service. 5mm socket for the drain plug, torx 30 for the pan and a snug 1/2" socket on the cross member.(probably a 13mm but I grabbed the 1/2"first)
Tim 2007 2500 170 wb hightop 170,000 miles
__________________
2007 Freightliner Sprinter 2500 170 high roof workhorse
Sparkx is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Sparkx For This Useful Post:
sfenn99 (03-04-2017)
Old 02-07-2017, 10:26 PM   #24
ElCheapoSprinto
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Stevensville Maryland 12/16 2007 170" CRD 291k
Posts: 182
Thanks: 67
Thanked 35 Times in 30 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

I made the brutal mistake of removing all 4 trans mount bolts then trying to put the long ones in and near impossible to get bolt holes to line back up... next time I'll remove two then replace with the long ones first
__________________
2005 158" SRW purchased 10/15 with 532k miles original motor and trans for $900
2007 170" SRW purchased 12/16 with 298k miles $3,000 3.0 CRD
ElCheapoSprinto is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ElCheapoSprinto For This Useful Post:
RunSprocketRun (03-25-2019)
Old 02-07-2017, 10:31 PM   #25
ElCheapoSprinto
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Stevensville Maryland 12/16 2007 170" CRD 291k
Posts: 182
Thanks: 67
Thanked 35 Times in 30 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

I'm reading in this thread that there are 2 TC drain plugs? Is this for convience? Or do both have to be drained?
__________________
2005 158" SRW purchased 10/15 with 532k miles original motor and trans for $900
2007 170" SRW purchased 12/16 with 298k miles $3,000 3.0 CRD
ElCheapoSprinto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2017, 11:20 AM   #26
flman
Triggering Snowflakes
 
flman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: America, Great Again!
Posts: 20,589
Thanks: 6,558
Thanked 5,545 Times in 4,304 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

Quote:
Originally Posted by ElCheapoSprinto View Post
I made the brutal mistake of removing all 4 trans mount bolts then trying to put the long ones in and near impossible to get bolt holes to line back up... next time I'll remove two then replace with the long ones first
I just used a bar to push the tail of the tranny up and put a piece of 2x4 to hold it up, no jack in your way or special bolts required.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ElCheapoSprinto View Post
I'm reading in this thread that there are 2 TC drain plugs? Is this for convience? Or do both have to be drained?
1 Plug for the pan, and one for the converter.
flman is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to flman For This Useful Post:
ElCheapoSprinto (02-08-2017)
Old 02-08-2017, 05:38 PM   #27
ElCheapoSprinto
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Stevensville Maryland 12/16 2007 170" CRD 291k
Posts: 182
Thanks: 67
Thanked 35 Times in 30 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

Thank you sir. Now I was just filling it, had a half of a liter left to put in and it was getting really slow to fill. I then hear fluid running on the ground. Looked underneath and there was about half a liter on the ground. It had come from the top of the trans I assume out of the vent. I started her and let her run for about 2 mins and no fluid ran or leaked out. I'd better find my dipstick... oh and yes I like the 2x4 pry bar trick better than the jack!
__________________
2005 158" SRW purchased 10/15 with 532k miles original motor and trans for $900
2007 170" SRW purchased 12/16 with 298k miles $3,000 3.0 CRD
ElCheapoSprinto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2017, 11:28 AM   #28
flman
Triggering Snowflakes
 
flman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: America, Great Again!
Posts: 20,589
Thanks: 6,558
Thanked 5,545 Times in 4,304 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

It probably ran over the top of the filler tube and you did not notice?

Not sure why MB thought using a straw sized tube to fill the tranny was a good idea, unless just one more reason to have it done at the dealer$$, mother Benz gets a cut of those profits as well.
flman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2017, 10:19 PM   #29
BADDANDY
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 52
Thanks: 1
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

The quick and clean way to get new fluid in. I cut the spray nozzle off and used a clamp to hold the trigger down.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF0981.JPG (134.7 KB, 168 views)
BADDANDY is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BADDANDY For This Useful Post:
flman (02-27-2017), RunSprocketRun (03-25-2019)
Old 03-04-2017, 03:22 AM   #30
sfenn99
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 22
Thanks: 16
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default Re: Torque Converter Drain Plug Removal + other cheap tricks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparkx View Post
I did my transmission service yesterday. 1st step was to snap my 5mm hex key off in the drain plug on the pan. I got it out using a magnet. I then got a quality 5mm socket and backed it out. lifted the transmission by backing out the 4 bolts in the crossbar then using a crowbar and leverage from.the crossbar I lifted the trans about an inch and put a stack of shims where the bolts were between the crossbar and the transmission. Worked well plenty of room to remove and replace the pan. After draing I replaced the plug so it didnt drip during pan removal. The filter has a significant snap in place then you know its on right it also has a guide pin you must set in the proper slot. Filter placement is not hard to figure out. My old one came with the pan.i located the access hole on the tc and reconcidered, I left it alone. If Mercedes doesn't go in there I'm not either. I measured 3 and 3/4 quarts drained and added 3and1/2 quarts. Cold measure is good I have to measure warm yet. I bought a fill tube that screws on a quart bottle and inserts in the dipstick tube. It drained slow so I poked a hole in the bottle (kinda llike a beer bong. And it flowed quickly. I will be draining and refilling the pan a few more times in the next few months instead of draining the tc. Thank you to all who post their experience here,I read alot of them before taking on the trans service. 5mm socket for the drain plug, torx 30 for the pan and a snug 1/2" socket on the cross member.(probably a 13mm but I grabbed the 1/2"first)
Tim 2007 2500 170 wb hightop 170,000 miles
Just changed fluid in trans. Only dropped pan, bunged up TC drain bolt trying to loosen it, will come back to it later, maybe. May do the much more often changing of pan fluid, only.
But, old filter dropped off easily and I didn't notice absolute orientation of filter placement. Yes, the o ring keeps filter up there, but filter can pivot back and forth.
Looked for slot for the black tab to go in, didn't see it. Will look again tomorrow.
Also, original pan drain bolt was on very hard. Used heat gun (glorified hot air gun) on high, nothing. Used oxy acetylene torch, two times, still couldn't remove drain plug. Ended up draping plastic in front of pan, hanging down so it covers that cross member. Removed front 2 pan bolts then slowly incrementally loosened other 4 so front of pan crept down, bleeding off fluid slowly. Didn't spill a drop, until trying to move oil catch pan. oops. Bought new pan with drain bolt installed. Tried to remove drain bolt, before installing on vehicle. Ended up having to use a 1/2" air impact to pop it loose. Going to hand tighten it carefully and safety wire it for insurance.
Thanks to all for the great write ups.
sfenn99 is offline   Reply With Quote

Tags
144'', 2500, nvc3, transmission fluid change

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT. The time now is 09:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.