This is a question more than a Write-up, but I think it belongs in Write-ups so guess where it is.
The original torque spec for T1N injectors was 7 nm (62 inch lbs) + 1 ea. 90 degree turn.
At some point that was changed to 7 nm + 180 degree turn.
I installed my injectors in May 2011 220,000 miles. I used the 62 inch lbs +90 degrees method. To date Sept. 2018 326,000 miles, all of my injectors have been fine. I do have an oil change with Black Death inspection coming up. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
For DIY types or those who know what procedure was used, what is the history of 90 degree vs 180 degree? Has +90 not lasted? Has +180 stripped any aluminum threads?
Here's my latest thoughts on procedure.
vic
The original torque spec for T1N injectors was 7 nm (62 inch lbs) + 1 ea. 90 degree turn.
At some point that was changed to 7 nm + 180 degree turn.
I installed my injectors in May 2011 220,000 miles. I used the 62 inch lbs +90 degrees method. To date Sept. 2018 326,000 miles, all of my injectors have been fine. I do have an oil change with Black Death inspection coming up. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
For DIY types or those who know what procedure was used, what is the history of 90 degree vs 180 degree? Has +90 not lasted? Has +180 stripped any aluminum threads?
Here's my latest thoughts on procedure.
My basic thoughts for the next "Black Death" triggered injector seal DIY replacement.
Parts:
* 2 ea. more injector seals and stretch bolts than I anticipate needing. The injector seal repair may not be successful. The parts to do it again may be needed.
* 1 each new/rebuilt Bosch injector on hand. The removed injector should be able to be reused/re-installed. If it needs to be disassembled to apply a puller, it should be replaced.
* Ceramic grease for coating the injector body.
* As the T1N engines are now old, it is probably good to have injector return fittings on hand. The possibility of those brittle fittings cracking increases with service time.
Added:
This set came with 5 ea. fittings, even though it says 4 cylinder. They are metal. Not brass.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012Y1GKCY
Tools:
All as listed for my first injector replacements, plus.
* 1 each modified hold down bolt as a thread cleaner.
* 1 each dowel rod with abrasive disk for seat cleaning.
* 12 gauge barrel cleaning kit for injector well cleaning.
Abreviated Procedure (Refer to original thread for details)
Plan to do one injector at a time. Plan that it may take some time for the injector loosen.
Some days before the actual injector change remove the black plastic cover. Spray Kroil or PB Blaster around on the subject injector(s). With a fully heated engine. Use a vertically aligned pin punch to strike the injector hold down fastener a few times. That may help break the bolt loose. Loosen the hold down bolt by 3 turns. Leave the black plastic cover off. Drive the Sprinter until the injector pops. It may take a week(s) to happen. Once it pops, re-tighten the 3 turns to allow temporary engine operation.
Once the injector is popped loose the rest of the repair is basically as outlined in my original thread and tips from subsequent posters. Move on to the next injector as needed.
The injector hold down threads must be CLEAN!!!
I would again use the 62 inch pounds + 90 degrees for my repair because that was successful for all 5 injectors on my 2004. I might be tempted to add a 45 degree second turn, but given the reported aluminum head thread failures I would not do 62 inch pounds +90 +90 as some recommend. I have little data, but a healthy fear.
FWIW. vic
vic