Back burner on stove

Kiltym

Active member
Having a couple of issues with our back burner, and wondering if anyone knows how to diagnose things better so I can look for the parts I might need.

The symptom is the back burner sometimes will not light, however I quite clearly see the spark from the igniter (although sometimes I can feel it slipping so likely needs to be replaced also). When it does light, when I release the knob, it immediately goes out indicating the thermocoupler is not engaging. Sometimes it will light, and stay on, but then go out a minute later with a "click" that is the thermocoupler disengaging.

It seems it would be either the thermocoupler, or the knob mechanism, that is causing the issue. My question is there a way to test the thermocoupler with a meter to see if that is where the issue lies?


I found this replacement, although it states 50/35cm while the one in our parts manual states 25cm for the back burner.

https://www.frankana.de/en/thermoelement-fur-cramer-kocher-ek-2000-alt-lange-50-cm-70410.html
https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/gas/caravan-hob/cramer-hobs/cramer-thermocouple-electronic


Also, it is almost impossible to light the burner with a pot on top. If I remove the pot, it normally (but not always) will light. Then I put the pot on, works ok for a bit, then goes out. It is not wind blowing it out, I can hear the click of the safety turning the gas off.

Anyone else go through this already?
 

Kiltym

Active member
Found this online, so will test and compare between the two thermocouplers:

"When hot they produce a very low voltage between the terminals. This is used to operate the safety gas solenoid.

You could disconnect the wires and use a voltmeter on, say, 10V range to see if there is any output when you put the thermocouple into a flame.

Comparison with one of the others tested in the same way would establish whether the thermocouple is the fault."


Just seems odd that sometimes it works for a minute, then disengages. A thermocouple is pretty simple, so seems odd it would work, and then not. Maybe its the tap itself with the issue.
 

Kiltym

Active member
Tested both couplers, and both behave the same. About 12-13mV when hot.

So, will investigate further on the knob/control device, however I am not sure it is replaceable or not.....
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
No idea.

Other main thread was about a loose wire under the stove. Junk in drawer would catch and wire would become dislodged. But you'really getting a spark.

Another thread was really dirty soot on back burner. Might be something to look at- propane pressure and air mixture.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62332&highlight=Stove

When I first got Westy, generator worked then a few months later, would only crank. Onan repair person found that something had blocked the insde of the propane line in some assembly. Person thought may have been sloppy assembly by installer not to keep lines clear. Thought there was a post somewhere about measuring propane pressure at the various appliances, but only your backburner is an issue.

By the way, do you use both burners at the same time a lot?
 

Kiltym

Active member
We do often use both burners at the same time.

I removed all the wires, sprayed some electrical cleaner on things and am keeping my fingers crossed. I will have to give it some time to know if there is any change or not.

I also found this thread which talks about making sure the magnet gets fully engaged. See the last post: http://forum.james-cook-freunde.de/viewtopic.php?t=1195
I think that will be the next step if my cleaning of the contacts does not fully sort out the issue.
 

danielmccoy

2004 Sprinter Westfalia
Our issue was that we could light the flame with the knob pushed down, but as soon as we released the knob, the flame would go out, even after a full minute of warming the coupler. We adjusted the thermocouple towards the flame, and it solved our issue.
 

Kiltym

Active member
Thanks danielmccoy, will look into that also. I did check the voltage on the coupler while the flame was on, and it seemed to register, but will see if the tip of the coupler can be adjusted a bit.
 
Last edited:

MrTomacco

Mr. Tommaco
I find the thermocouple terminal connector is the ignition problem. I can remove and replace the connectors a couple of times to improve the connection. I can do it without removing the drawer since I do it so often.

When the flame was weak I had to disassemble the rear burner and clean the orifice with a oxy-acetlyene torch cleaning tool that has a dozen or so specially designed tiny cleaning rods https://www.amazon.com/Hobart-77008...529163512&sr=8-4&keywords=torch+cleaning+tool Don't buy at Amazon, get it at your local hardware or welding store. Support you local merchants or Amazon will be your only choice.
 

Kiltym

Active member
To follow up on this. After removing the coupler wire from the control knob under the stove, spraying a bit of CorrosionX on it, the stove now stays lit as it should. Same issue as MrTomacco. So I think a slightly bad/corroded connection was causing the coupler to not send enough voltage to keep the gas flowing.
 

Top Bottom