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Old 07-26-2017, 08:14 PM   #911
Bike_Sprinter
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Reno, NV
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Quote:
Originally Posted by hein View Post
The sliding door still had fiberglass insulation from the previous owner's conversion work. Time to update that to the 'Thinsulate sandwich'. First step was to seal the trim clip holes so removed the trim per Geek's video. The trim was in full sun and almost too hot to touch so it popped off pretty easily. I had released some of the clips from the inside so that helped. After they were all out I put a bead of 3M Window Weld around each one and popped them back into the door. Then snapped the trim piece back on. With that done it was time to go inside, turn on the air conditioner, some music, and install the insulation.

Step 1. EZcool layer loosely installed against the van skin. Pulled in and unrolled in the less accessible areas above and below the window and along the sides. The EZcool is taped together and held in place with foil tape. The Dynamat was installed previously.



Below - Steps 2 & 3. Thinsulate and then a layer of Reflectix cut to fit the openings. Strips of Thinsulate are poked/pulled into less accessible areas. The EZcool lining makes that easier. For the larger areas Thinsulate is held in place against the EZcool with 3M 90 spray adhesive.



Similar layup above the window but no Reflectix on the openings because I may want to add storage pockets to the panel that goes here.



Note: Thinsulate is very effective without the other layers I installed.

All finished with the door panel back on.



More insulation photos and explanation: http://sprinter-source.com/forum/sho...&postcount=133
As many have said before, thank you for all the work you have done to show the progress of your amazing build.

I have a few questions, but will likely need to break them up so I can better formulate what I am asking and to what end...So Question Number 1: With your masterful use of space, why did you opt to replace the door panel after addressing the Window and Leak in post #637/#638? I was wondering if there was any storage space to be had in the door, especially as it slides back in place along the outside passenger side of the van with space between the door and the van. I was looking at your plates on the rear door spaces and was thinking there might be a way to use a similar idea on the slider, working around the diagonal cross brace of course. I am trying to find a place to put some shoes that is both out of the way and accessible.

Thanks in advance for your time and consideration.
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hein (07-31-2017)
Old 07-30-2017, 12:51 AM   #912
hein
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

We've had some requests for slider door storage so will get that going.
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2010 MB 3500 RV conversion.
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:54 PM   #913
hein
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Glide-Rite air suspension was leaking down while parked for an extended time and then eventually would not raise the vehicle to proper ride height. Culprit was the ride height control valve. Glide-rite quoted $300 but I was able to find the same valve for under $50. Sent the first one back because it appeared to be leaking fluid. These valves are interesting because they are fluid damped. Pretty straight forward replacement. Linkage to rear axle actuates the valve to maintain correct ride height. It's damped/delayed so it doesn't cycle too fast to allow for motion while driving.



The repair project made me consider the dangers of working on a pressurized air suspension while laying under the vehicle with limited clearance. I parked the van on blocks to raise it up so I could work on it with the air springs fully deflated. Then depressurized the system from above.

Found this document about the hazard: http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/pm85.pdf
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2010 MB 3500 RV conversion.

Last edited by hein; 09-14-2017 at 10:57 PM.
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