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Old 08-27-2013, 04:09 PM   #21
GeorgeRa
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

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Originally Posted by hein View Post
I guess I should have read the data sheet so thanks for the heads up. I think it will be fine since it is on the inside of the van. -and there are 12 screws too. I just checked the bond and I can't peel the adhesive off the metal but I can peel it off the paint pretty easily.

I know a common problem with windshields comes from scratches that are created when the windshield is removed that are not later covered with some primer or the adhesive when the new windshield is installed. - leading to rust.

I'll paint over any remaining bare metal with some white spray paint. I'm glad to have the roof reinforced for the AC unit. The roof is pretty flimsy to begin with.
This is from 3M regarding moisture cured polyurethane adhesive. From page 4 http://solutions.3m.com/3MContentRet...bute=ImageFile

"Use of a primer is an extra step and cost and will depend on substrates and the final
end use. Using primer can improve the corrosion resistance of certain metals as well
as improve the durability of the bond when exposed to high humidity conditions.
For most applications high strength bonds on metal can be achieved without the use
of a primer. Pre-testing for adhesion is suggested to determine if a primer is needed.
The 3M™ Scotch-Weld™ Structural Adhesive Primer EC-1945 B/A works well for
most metals."

Even on a fresh steel surface there is a thin a layer of oxide formed almost immediately so any adhesive bonds to that layer which has good adhesion to steel. Corrosion issue is not critical in your application.

Good luck,

George.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:18 AM   #22
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

I finished prepping the roof opening by gluing the skin down to the frame. I used 1/4" thick ABS strips to fill the gap between the top of the frame and the inside of the roof. Slathered it up with the Window Weld and clamped it all in place. Things got a little messy with the glue, ha ha.

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Old 08-29-2013, 07:48 PM   #23
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

I mounted a sub today. CNC'd a panel out of 3/4 thick expanded PVC (Celtec) and mounted a Radio Shack 10" sub I had laying around. I had to dig out one of my daughters hip-hop CDs for a test. I'll build some kind of closed cell foam enclosure for the back.

Warning! might be a little loud.


The interior wall panel will cover the speaker panel and I'll finish it off with a grill (same style I used on the ceiling speakers).


Note: Sub panels are available for sale. They are flush with the inner sheet metal so will not interfere with wall panels. Can make cut out to fit 8, 10 or 12" subs. Please PM me for details

Clearance with body skin ~1/4". Depth of the speaker is 3 15/16"

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Last edited by hein; 11-23-2013 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:09 AM   #24
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

I'm waiting for a condensate pump kit for my roof AC plus some other parts to convert it to a wall mounted thermostat. I painted the AC cover to 'match' the Sprinter body color. Color is Rustoleum Painters Touch Gloss White - it adheres to plastic. Key to spray paint is to apply enough for it to flow. Work across large surfaces in a line to maintain a wet zone. Then it will gloss. It took two cans.



Here is the AirExcel 9200 Btu Mach8 with the cover removed in case you are interested:

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Old 08-30-2013, 01:18 AM   #25
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

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Here is the AirExcel 9200 Btu Mach8 with the cover removed in case you are interested:

It's really interesting how much smaller they have been able to make the fan on the new mach 8. I had a polar cub and the fan was 2 or 3 times that size.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:15 PM   #26
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Nice job on the sub. Giving me more good ideas...!

What is the theory with those (I am not an audio guy, never owned a car), do you need to seal the rear side of the sub to make it airtight? Won't the effect of the sub just go straight into the body skin and be audible to anyone outside? Or is it okay with all the vibration damping/CLD you've got installed?
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:07 PM   #27
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

An enclosure is needed so stay tuned and I'll show what I come up with. I may add a port to the panel. You'll be able to hear it outside the vehicle (if I crank it up) so maybe not a good idea to camp near me, ha ha.

Here's a link about different woofer types: http://www.eminence.com/2011/06/seal...ed-enclosures/

And a drawing of the panel if you want to make one: http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_Sprinte..._sub_panel.pdf
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Last edited by hein; 08-30-2013 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:22 PM   #28
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

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Nice job on the sub. Giving me more good ideas...!

What is the theory with those (I am not an audio guy, never owned a car), do you need to seal the rear side of the sub to make it airtight? Won't the effect of the sub just go straight into the body skin and be audible to anyone outside? Or is it okay with all the vibration damping/CLD you've got installed?
It depends on the type of music you listen to and how much power your amp has but I went with a sealed box for my 12in sub. On mine, the manufacturer provides a volume spec for if you're using a sealed or ported box. My sealed box is about 1 cubic ft internally and it's made from 3/4 MDF.

As for the campground, even my well insulated sprinter lets someone outside hear pretty well what I'm playing even at a reasonable volume. Placing a sub in the outside wall probably won't help that but the front speakers are already in the doors so it probably won't make that much difference
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:55 PM   #29
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

I picked up some lightweight closed cell foam from a client who fabricates with EVA foams. It's called Minicell and is quite common and readily available in a variety of thicknesses. I used 4" thick material to shape some 2" wide bulkheads that span the void between the inner structure and the outer skin of the van. They are slightly (1/8") oversize so gently wedged in place with no further fastening.

I ran the bulkheads across the top and down the sides to fully enclose the speaker. Here is one of the inside corners:


Below is a shaped foam bulkhead. The inside is straight and the outside follows the body contour. The foam is flexible and somewhat compressible so you can bend it to get it in the right spot and then work it in place. Minicell is easy to cut with a hand saw and cuts very nicely with a band saw. You can also sand it with coarse grit.



Rough cutting Minicell. I used a band saw for final cuts.


Stuffed some 3M Thinsulate into my quick and easy sub enclosure. You can see the minicell bulkheads showing through the vertical slots in the body on both sides of the enclosure. I covered that and wrapped the outside corners with some Gorilla tape which sticks really well to the minicell.



[edit]
Decided to add a port for more efficiency. Sounds better.

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Last edited by hein; 05-15-2016 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Added port and more info.
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:41 PM   #30
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

More uses for the minicell: Filling the corrugations in the floor. I do have a lot of beveled strips to cut but it goes quickly with a sharp carpet knife along a straight edge. Plan is to fill all the corrugations, put down a full layer of 1/4" thick minicell and then reinstall the floor w/o the asphalt pad they put under it from the factory. Or maybe replace the OEM floor with some 1/4 okoume plywood depending on how the thickness stacks up.

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