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Old 10-15-2013, 08:49 AM   #101
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

You'd doing an epic amount of work on that floor, no holding you back is there? Respect!

Also I can't remember if you already mentioned this or not - but is this your first fitout/build like this? From the way you've been going so far I wouldn't have thought so.
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:03 PM   #102
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Thanks for the compliments, Mugget. The floor has been a bit of work. I cut some more strips for the back half last night so maybe I can ask my helper (and lovely wife) to glue them down today.

I've customized about every vehicle I've owned and also just designed and built A LOT of stuff. Check out the Shaggin' Saturn wagon from a few years ago. (warning picture heavy) Sadly, this car was wrecked shortly after it was sold. The new owner wasn't interested in the 'shaggin' part so all the custom parts are in the basement.

The Sprinter is definitely the most comprehensive vehicle project I've undertaken. We had a HR Vacationer until the gas prices doubled so I learned about RV systems on that.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:19 AM   #103
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

The refrigerator will sit on a welded stand over the left rear fender. Below is a CAD view from the back of the cabinet. (as if looking through the van wall) The thick panels on the sides of the opening are 2" EPS which will further insulate the fridge.



I had a little time this afternoon to cut pieces and weld up the top of the support. Materials are 1 1/2 angle iron and 1 1/2 square tube. The front legs will be added after I can measure the final distance from the floor to the top of the fender well.

Below: Back of the frame (similar to perspective above).


Below: Front of the frame with the refrigerator tilted back. There are two rectangular sheet metal rails on the bottom of the fridge that fit snug between the angles. I'll run some screws through the angle and into the rails.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:20 PM   #104
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

flat black trim screws:

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Phi...4_p/a13026.htm
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Old 10-20-2013, 04:54 AM   #105
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

During some of the recent heavy rains, I had a small amount of water coming in around the aftermarket window on the drivers side. It looked like the window had slipped down in the opening which compromised the seal somewhere along the top. The previous owner lived on a rough road so that might have been a factor.

When removing the window yesterday, I noticed another problem. The outside panel had been cut a little too big. I should have taken pictures but didn't so now I'll have to write about it...

The top edges of the cutout were even but along the bottom towards the front the outside was bigger by almost 3/16". The curved corners were a bit generous as well. I inspected the seal on the window after it was out and it was apparent that the window had shifted down and was barely sealing at the top rear corner. At least the cut edges had been rust proofed so thankfully there was none of that to deal with.

So first I whipped out my trusty tube of 3M Window Weld and filled the void between the inner and outer sheet metal all around the opening. Filling this area keeps the inner and outer panels from moving when the trim ring squeezes them together. The result is more even pressure on the seal. I let that cure for 24 hours.

Instead of using a replacement seal (which would have been too narrow for the over-sized cutout) I decided to use .090" thick x 1/2 wide 3M VHB tape. I applied the tape around the window flange and pulled the backing off just along the bottom sill. I left a tail on the remainder of the backing so I could pull it off later.

I cleaned the outside surface of the van around perimeter of the window with alcohol. VHB likes clean surfaces. Then I masked that off and waxed the painted surfaces that would be hidden forever by the window.

We placed the window in the opening and while my wife held the window from the outside, I used shims to move the window up (~1/16") and then shifted it fore and aft to get maximum overlap with the body all around.

We had a little trouble when the VHB wanted to grab along the bottom but we could pop it loose easily enough and then continue to move the window around to get it "just" right. When it was all good, we pressed down the bottom edge, pulled the top of the window away from the van a little and pulled off the rest of the VHB backing. Then we pressed the window against the van. I put the flange back on and tightened the screws gradually in a crisscross pattern. I used the flange head screws from the previous post since they don't distort the trim flange near as much as the pan heads that were there.

Totally stoked when I went outside to look at how the VHB tape had responded. It's the grey stuff between the flange and the body. The slider door window doesn't leak but I may reset it with VHB also. I think this is going to be bomber -- but time will tell.

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Last edited by hein; 10-20-2013 at 05:36 AM.
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:08 PM   #106
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Quote:
Originally Posted by hein View Post
During some of the recent heavy rains, I had a small amount of water coming in around the aftermarket window on the drivers side. It looked like the window had slipped down in the opening which compromised the seal somewhere along the top. The previous owner lived on a rough road so that might have been a factor.

When removing the window yesterday, I noticed another problem. The outside panel had been cut a little too big. I should have taken pictures but didn't so now I'll have to write about it...

The top edges of the cutout were even but along the bottom towards the front the outside was bigger by almost 3/16". The curved corners were a bit generous as well. I inspected the seal on the window after it was out and it was apparent that the window had shifted down and was barely sealing at the top rear corner. At least the cut edges had been rust proofed so thankfully there was none of that to deal with.

So first I whipped out my trusty tube of 3M Window Weld and filled the void between the inner and outer sheet metal all around the opening. Filling this area keeps the inner and outer panels from moving when the trim ring squeezes them together. The result is more even pressure on the seal. I let that cure for 24 hours.

Instead of using a replacement seal (which would have been too narrow for the over-sized cutout) I decided to use .090" thick x 1/2 wide 3M VHB tape. I applied the tape around the window flange and pulled the backing off just along the bottom sill. I left a tail on the remainder of the backing so I could pull it off later.

I cleaned the outside surface of the van around perimeter of the window with alcohol. VHB likes clean surfaces. Then I masked that off and waxed the painted surfaces that would be hidden forever by the window.

We placed the window in the opening and while my wife held the window from the outside, I used shims to move the window up (~1/16") and then shifted it fore and aft to get maximum overlap with the body all around.

We had a little trouble when the VHB wanted to grab along the bottom but we could pop it loose easily enough and then continue to move the window around to get it "just" right. When it was all good, we pressed down the bottom edge, pulled the top of the window away from the van a little and pulled off the rest of the VHB backing. Then we pressed the window against the van. I put the flange back on and tightened the screws gradually in a crisscross pattern. I used the flange head screws from the previous post since they don't distort the trim flange near as much as the pan heads that were there.

Totally stoked when I went outside to look at how the VHB tape had responded. It's the grey stuff between the flange and the body. The slider door window doesn't leak but I may reset it with VHB also. I think this is going to be bomber -- but time will tell.

Sorry to read about your window leak, I am sure you fixed it permanently. I just read your posts and like to congratulate you on progress. One of these days I need to learn 3D CAD, it is so much more potent then my old fashion 2D views CAD but even 2D CAD I am finding indispensable in my projects.

Is your 3M Window-Weld polyurethane?

George.
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:02 PM   #107
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

It's 3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane. I've used 8 tubes on various van stuff plus fixing a gutter on the house. Don't get it on your skin. 3M adhesive remover will take it off before it cures.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:01 AM   #108
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Reworked OEM Floor is down (finally). See this post for the layup underneath. I need to order some M8 flat head screws to fasten it to the factory locations. I found some bolts in the junkyard to hold it temporarily. To locate the holes, I ran a straight edge back to a reference mark on the wall and measured the distance out. Then duplicated those dimensions when the floor was in and drilled small pilot holes. (There are tanks underneath so just through the floor.) Then removed the floor and drilled to the final diameter. Still haven't decided on a floor covering.



(tire mark is from when the floor was laying in the garage and I parked the car on it.)



Added one more extension (1") to overlap the lip on the cab floor cover.

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Last edited by hein; 10-21-2013 at 07:33 AM.
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:18 AM   #109
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

This afternoon's progress

Cut parts and welded the legs on the refrigerator support; sanded, painted and installed it. 1/4-20 rivet nuts for the wall connections. OEM cargo track threaded holes for the floor plate. Bolts: M8x1.25x60 HHCS



Note: I can have more of these made. It fits a the Norcold DE-0061. Please pm me for details.




Wife went to our local Fastenal to pick up flat head cap screws for the floor:

Cargo track locations
M8-1.25 x 50mm DIN 7991 Class 10.9 Black Oxide Flat Head Socket Cap Screw



Tie down pocket locations (below)
M8-1.25 x 40mm DIN 7991 Class 10.9 Black Oxide Flat Head Socket Cap Screw

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Last edited by hein; 08-31-2014 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:45 AM   #110
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

some after dinner brackets, ho hum.



Nice when a seemingly randomly placed outlet reveals its purpose.



I didn't model the electrical outlets in CAD but I referred to the layout model when I chose the locations. Yes, that's the 12VDC exiting out of the corner of the 120VAC outlet box. It comes in at the back inside a plastic conduit that runs along the bottom well away from the AC load wires. I guess I could reroute it if someone calls foul. -or add an insulated baffle?
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