How do you know when your Sprinter is overheating?

"Regularly hitting 250F" is key.

Aqua Puttana said:

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My opinion.
If operators are using a coolant gauge temperature of 250F as an action point they are taking their chances. If you react at 250F then the engine temperature is likely to get above that by the time your solutions take effect.

I recommend operator intervention (gear down, slow down) before 250F, no matter what engine oil or viscosity is being used, or what a dealership tells you. Maybe 230 235F as an action point? I have no data except that a properly cooling Sprinter should not be regularly attaining a 250F coolant temperature... or even 235F for that matter.

vic

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Added:

Aqua Puttana said:

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I'm convinced that cooling systems not being up to standard is probably the greatest factor in reducing the service life of a T1N diesel. Don't believe the "Anything up to 250F on the gauge is ok" myth. A properly cooling T1N will rarely see anything over 235F, let alone up to 250F.

vic

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Tooth Fairy said:

Dickhead, get back underneath the bridge, dont you think that MB has all of this sorted out temperature wise?

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Anecdotal evidence in this thread demonstrates that proper knowledge of the theory of operation of a system coupled with instrumentation that lends insight into the current operation of the system is useful for maintaining the system within its designed operational parameters.

For those who are not capable of properly integrating the theory of operation and realtime data regarding the operation of the system, perhaps blind obeisance to the sainted implementors is the best path, albeit accented from time to time by massive donations to the church of MB. I myself choose the path of knowledge and responsibility.

elemental said:

Anecdotal evidence in this thread demonstrates that proper knowledge of the theory of operation of a system coupled with instrumentation that lends insight into the current operation of the system is useful for maintaining the system within its designed operational parameters.

For those who are not capable of properly integrating the theory of operation and realtime data regarding the operation of the system, perhaps blind obeisance to the sainted implementors is the best path, albeit accented from time to time by massive donations to the church of MB. I myself choose the path of knowledge and responsibility.

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Woah, my head hurts...

I hope those of you (like the original poster (OP)) are manually downshifting out of overdrive when pulling up hills.
500 more RPM in 4th gear, can make a huge difference in how high your temperature goes when pulling hard
uphill (particularly with added loads like a trailer or an RV body).
You can still run 60-65 mph in 4th gear, with the RPM in the 2800-3000 RPM range but things will stay much cooler
as the over all heat load on the engine and transmission are reduced and the engine is running in it's most efficient
power band.
You have to make the downshift manually as if you wait for the 5G-Tronic/NAG-1 5 speed transmission to "auto down shift"
you will wait a very long time and all during that interminably long time the engine and transmission continue to make and
soak up the heat.
Roger

az7000' said:

Woah, my head hurts...

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I haven't been writing any government proposals recently... guess I had a build-up of bullish*t to get out.

smiller said:

The highest reading I ever see in my very heavy NCV3 V6 Sprinter is 220F (hot day, low speeds, steep grade) at which point the fan clutch engages and prevents any further rise. I probably wouldn't panic if it went even higher under extreme conditions, but to me ever seeing 250F would indicate a cooling system problem.

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Mine doesn't have a temperature gauge, so how would I know the engine temp? Scangauge?

To know if the Sprinter is running hot or not is a difficult question, as anecdotally we all seem to experience higher than usual operating temperatures compared to other vehicles. I've been told by the dealer that operating temps up to 230F are normal, and I do see operating temps of 215-225F regularly. I too do not hear the fan turn on and I question if it does since the operating temps can rise when idling without load. The dealer has twice confirmed that it is working correctly. I started a different thread with a poll from other owners on operating temps here with some good info on these higher than usually operating temps.

Mine regularly hits the 215 mark when climbing a steep grade, on occasion if the grade is very steep and it's really hot out it will touch the 250º mark, at which point I will stop and let it cool down. The Sprinter is the only vehicle that I have ever owned with a temperature gauge that moves so much and so rapidly.

On my 2007 with both the elec cooling fans and thermal clutch fan operating properly It will go up peak into the mid 200s but come down fast when load is reduced.

Also on the 2007 NCV3 when the motor driven fan is engaged (to quote a post lost to memory) "it sounds like a piper cub" you can really hear it and see the motor temps drop.

I keep the center display on temp now when the load or outside air temp is High.

Last year in colorado towing a 5000 pound trailer I made if from Golden to Leadville with a broken Main fan, we shut off the ac opened the windows and ran the heat on high, next day I ran back to Golden and Dennis put a new fan in.

Just got back from a long hot mountainous trip around Washington state. Our 2006 T1N sits at 180F around town, climbs to 195 on the freeway then up to 205 on the big hills. The big fan kicks in (Boeing effect!) and drops the temp back to 195. Once she gets hot that cycle of 195-205-fan-195 just repeats. On big long climbs I downshift and turn off the AC. Never seen more than about 215F. I use a scangauge and have coolant temp as one of the displayed values. I like having the extra information from the scangauge.

When I recently removed my grille, I found I only have one fan, is this normal, should I have two?

IMG_20190810_134458 by S STEEL, on Flickr

Hey I recognize that grill support.

I don't know but if you want to replace your entire front clip with a Dodge have a spare laying around.

ctmcdaniel said:

Hey I recognize that grill support.

I don't know but if you want to replace your entire front clip with a Dodge have a spare laying around.

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Thanks, I'm ok

Mickyfin said:

When I recently removed my grille, I found I only have one fan, is this normal, should I have two?

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Some come with 2 fans. I believe most come with one. I don't recall anyone presenting any logic as to why there are 2 ea. when there.

vic

My 02 316 4x4 never budged on temp when I got it, not even on a beach draging hard through soft sand. Now temp goes up just looking at an incline. Iv done thermostate, clutch fan, 2 radiator flushes, I had a couple bad injectors that where prob leaning her out but still getting to warm to trust it off road after changing them.

Head gasket?
More injectors?
Blocked radiator?

When I did the rad flush I got a small amounts of waxy deposits.

Zfcyp said:

... Iv done thermostate, clutch fan, 2 radiator flushes, I had a couple bad injectors that where prob leaning her out but still getting to warm to trust it off road after changing them.

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There have been reports of the composite gaskets causing interference issues with the pump impeller. There could be other issues.

I would consider pulling the coolant pump for inspection. It will give a chance to inspect some additional internal passages also.

If over 150,000 miles service on it, then replace with new. If newer, just replace the metal pump "gasket" or use a thin coat of Permatex sealant.

vic

Added:

Aqua Puttana said:

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I'm convinced that cooling systems not being up to standard is probably the greatest factor in reducing the service life of a T1N diesel. Don't believe the "Anything up to 250F on the gauge is ok" myth. A properly cooling T1N will rarely see anything over 235F, let alone up to 250F.

vic

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Zfcyp said:

My 02 316 4x4 never budged on temp when I got it, not even on a beach draging hard through soft sand. Now temp goes up just looking at an incline. Iv done thermostate, clutch fan, 2 radiator flushes, I had a couple bad injectors that where prob leaning her out but still getting to warm to trust it off road after changing them.

Head gasket?
More injectors?
Blocked radiator?

When I did the rad flush I got a small amounts of waxy deposits.

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I would check to make certain that debris is not stuck between the radiator and the AC condenser. Split them apart and blast out the stuff stuck in between and in the cooling fins. This is often overlooked in newer vehicles as an underlying cause of cooling issues.

ctmcdaniel said:

On my 2007 my viscous fan clutch failed at some unknown point.

It did not show up until I was climbing out of Denver pulling a 5k trailer

I think that's why Dennis located his shop in Golden.

On my 2007 and NCV3, when it went over temperature the dashboard flashes red turbo drops out.

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Dennis is in Colorado Springs not Golden??

sailnorth1980 said:

Dennis is in Colorado Springs not Golden??

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Linden Engineering & Automotive is located in Golden.
Dennis