Replacement of front brake pads and rotor
- Thread starter hkpierce
- Start date
Disc brakes are self adjusting. The caliper assembly floats and moves as the pads wear down. The hydraulic pressure pushes the pistons/pads against the rotors. When the pressure is released the pistons/pads move back slightly. They don't need to move much. I believe that the pads retreat from a combination of being bumped by the rotor and possibly some action by the seals.
The parking brake shoes are conventional. The adjuster was probably backed off to remove the rotor/drum assembly. So yes, the parking brakes do need to be properly adjusted after new a brake job which included rotor removal or replacement.
vicCarminooch615
Active member
Would someone kindly post the chart showing the difference between the three different types of brake assemblies the sprinter utilized?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
marklg
Well-known member
Carminooch615
Active member
israndy
2007 LTV Serenity
Opinions on changing brake fluid, please? Every time I look at recommendations it says every 2 years. Well, my vehicles don't move for two years at a stretch, at least not much. Finally using the Non-op feature from the DMV.
Does that mean the fluid is rusting my lines? I have a couple of electric motorcycles from 2007 that have never been in for service because they just don't need it. Should I have been taking them in for brake fluid swaps? Before the brake job I listed above I never thought about the Sprinter, just got regular oil changes.
-Randy
Does that mean the fluid is rusting my lines? I have a couple of electric motorcycles from 2007 that have never been in for service because they just don't need it. Should I have been taking them in for brake fluid swaps? Before the brake job I listed above I never thought about the Sprinter, just got regular oil changes.
-Randy
The problem with not renewing is more related to corrosion within the CAB aka ABS module than it is rusting. There are some close tolerance parts inside there. If your brake lines are rusting internally you have big problems.
A typical motorcycle has a less complex braking system. It also may use DOT 3 fluid. DOT 3 fluid is more forgiving than is DOT 4. DOT 4 has better wet boiling ratings vs DOT3, but there is some trade off for serviceability.
Some may not agree, but you seem like a perfect candidate for monitoring your fluid condition.
PTE Tester Calibrated for for DOT 4 Brake fluids
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HVG4GQ
vic
D
Deleted member 50714
Guest
No, bleeding only necessary if system is contaminated with air and or moisture.
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
No, not unless you open the lines for some reason.
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
Don't use lube on the pad brackets. The caliper slide pins need lube, but are generally fine as long as the rubber not is intact.
It might be needed.
You should open the bleeder screws before compressing the pads/cylinders back into the caliper. If you don't open the bleed screws you risk pushing dirty brake fluid back into the CAB aka ABS valve module. (Thanks Dennis!) Getting crud back in the CAB module can ruin your day.
When the bleeders are opened there is some risk of air intrusion so the fluid should be bled. If you choose not to open the bleeders, risk the CAB module, and just compress the brake pads back, then no bleeding is needed.
vicMidwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
Check the power steering fluid, and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times. Double check the speed sensor.
zaskarkid
Member
it only shuddered when turning left. turning right was normal. I added about 1/3 quart of power steering fluid. still shuddered.
only after driving it through a bumpy parking lot, did shudder go away.
when wheels off, I didn't turn the engine, but rather just to acc iginition position to turn the steering full left to (for doing right breaks), and full right for doing left breaks.
only after driving it through a bumpy parking lot, did shudder go away.
when wheels off, I didn't turn the engine, but rather just to acc iginition position to turn the steering full left to (for doing right breaks), and full right for doing left breaks.
Last edited:
Trying to sort everything out before I start replacing the front brakes.
In doing research, one item that should be lubed is the "caliper slider pins" (referenced in this thread, as well as elsewhere). It is not clear based on all this write-up where they are. Looking at other brake repair info online, it seems they are installed in the caliper bracket, and the "guide bolts" would screw into them.......? But I may be misunderstanding something.
Do the Bosch front brakes on the T1N have these slider pins? And if so, should they be removed, cleaned, lubed, and re-inserted.....?
Are the "guide bolts" the slider pins in this application, and in turn, they should be lubed when re-installing?
If anyone has a photo, that would be a huge help.
Thanks! (and sorry if this is a stupid question)
In doing research, one item that should be lubed is the "caliper slider pins" (referenced in this thread, as well as elsewhere). It is not clear based on all this write-up where they are. Looking at other brake repair info online, it seems they are installed in the caliper bracket, and the "guide bolts" would screw into them.......? But I may be misunderstanding something.
Do the Bosch front brakes on the T1N have these slider pins? And if so, should they be removed, cleaned, lubed, and re-inserted.....?
Are the "guide bolts" the slider pins in this application, and in turn, they should be lubed when re-installing?
If anyone has a photo, that would be a huge help.
Thanks! (and sorry if this is a stupid question)
Last edited:
marklg
Well-known member
Yes, the guide bolts (#3) are the guide pins. I did lubricate them, but also put loctite on threads. Since you have to push them through the guides, you have to put loctite on what they thread into and lubricate them, making sure none of the lube gets on the threads. Takes a little care to keep the two from contaminating each other.
Regards,
Mark